mortino

4 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

I didn't see that it was rated 80+ platinum, however personally I would take extra wattage over platinum efficiency. I see a Newegg listing for what I assume he wants to buy: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-550-platinum-ssr-550px-550w/p/N82E16817151193?Description=seasonic 550w platnium&cm_re=seasonic_550w_platnium-_-17-151-193-_-Product&quicklink=true
 

This is $120. I got myself an EVGA 750 G3 that's gold rated for $100. I'm saving $20 when getting 200 extra watts, I may not need it now, but I may need it in the future. I would prefer not to buy another PSU when I want to upgrade. This is my own personal opinion, and you may value other things in your power supplies, but unless you get charged a dollar a kilowatt hour, efficiency really doesn't matter unless your talking about servers that run 24/7.

Read the PSU list on this forum, the g3's have issues

1 minute ago, BlueScope819 said:

It's unreasonable to have a high quality PSU?

It's not unreasonable in fact it is important, but a SeaSonic 80+ platinum psu is top notch, and 550w is plenty these days from a good psu, this guy would be hard pressed to even see the fan spin if he isn't running synthetics with overclocks. It was just ridiculous you called it cheaping out. I'd run that system on a 400w 80+ gold psu from SeaSonic and have absolute faith. I run a 9900k oc'd to 5.1ghz on all cores and a 1080ti oc'd to 2135 on the core with an evga supernova 650w 80+ gold and I don't even know if that fan has ever spun.

It's either new coil wine from aging components, dying hard drive scratching the platters or you have a popped capacitor somewhere releasing gases.

Go with a chinese spy phone, huawai or xaomi, gsm arena website will tell you all the specs you need for any phone you are looking at including the bands it works on.

Just now, snowy1 said:

okay tight.. i'm thinking the 550 will be fine, but this is my first build so i'm not too sure. So you think I'll be fine with the 550?

An 80+ platinum 550w SeaSonic PSU is overkill AF for your system but will give you long term reliability. You will reuse that PSU in your next build 5+ years down the road for sure.

Your specs make little sense, looks like you got them from a capture of available resources, sounds like you gpu is dying or overclocked too high. If it's overclocked by you I would guess that the card is just getting old and can't handle the overclocks it once did.

Sorry to say but lesson learned, mining cards are run 24/7 and an old card like a 980ti was probably run for years non stop. It's a hurting unit.

6 minutes ago, BlueScope819 said:

FYI, monitors do not pull power from your PCs PSU. They plug in to the wall with their own power cable. I would recommend trading out your 3700x for a 3600 and a more powerful GPU. What's great about AMD is that you can upgrade down the line. I wouldn't cheap out on a PSU, just get a 650W and you will be fine, better to error on the safe side. Also, if you want to be able to upgrade to 4th gen Desktop Ryzen, you are going to need an X570 motherboard, but you can always grab one of those down the line.

6 minutes ago, bmx6454 said:

should be, but your cutting it close

You guys are high and drunk, this system is gunna puil like 300 watts tops when overclocked, this isn't 2009, and in what world is a frigging SeaSonic power supply cheaping out let alone an 80+ platinum unit, SeaSonic is one of the best psu manufacturers.

Noctua U12A better than any AIO and even better than the D15 and its half the size.

Just now, nick name said:

I think you fixed your mistake after he found it and quoted it.  Lol.  

I fixed my original post and put in an edited note to say so after _syn_ pointed out I had them backwards.

Just now, _Syn_ said:

Yeah but 4.25ns is the 4000Mhz CL17 kit... also even if the 3200Mhz kit has lower latency, you still gain a huge amount of bandwidth from the 4000Mhz kit.

O shit my bad I wrote that down backwards.

1 minute ago, Firewrath9 said:

what?

1s/3200mhz*16 = 0.005

1s/4000mhz*17 =0.0045

do you know how to calculate latency?

1s/4000mhz*17cl=0.00425

2 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

That's not true, what?

The math suggests so, 4,25ns compared to 5ns. That is 15%.

DDR4 4000 CL17 is 15% faster on paper than DDR3200 CL16, in real life you probably will see no difference unless you have a very specific use case that benefits highly from faster ram cycles.

That would be a very weak upgrade, do not recommend. The 2060 is a bit faster but is it fast enough to warrant your hard earned money, I would say no.

What kind of switches does it have? Not all keycaps fit on all switches.

It will make bluestacks perform significantly faster, I have not ever heard of it or noticed it interfering with performance outside of VM's.

5 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

tbh the time I see people using so many tabs and would rather upgrade memory than moving to Firefox, I kinda expected this answer. With only 16GB you can run into stutters caused by running out of memory, in that case not even the fastest memory kit can save you.

 

Nope, even on Intel architectures using the ring bus, fast memory helps with stablizing frame rates.

Let's be real he isn't going to notice the difference, he's using 32gb of ddr4 so he is on a modern cpu and has a 1080ti so it can be assumed he is running at least a 6th gen i5, maybe he would see a 1-2fps increase, maybe. I have a similar system, 7700k, 1080ti but only 16gb of 3200mhz ram. changing the ram speed down to 2400mhz or running xmp or even overclocking, gaming results are within margin of error, 1% and 0.1% lows included.
 

Just now, The Misanthrope said:

But wouldn't 3600mhz ram give a decent boost in performance over my current 2400mhz?

Not for gaming or web browsing. Some professional use cases benefit from faster ram and zen cpu's see a bit of multi-threaded performance benefit. Check out videos on youtube, I'm sure there are plenty on the subject.

2 minutes ago, The Misanthrope said:

Currently 1080Ti, eventually a 2080Ti. 350$ isn't that much for a new kit but if the upgrade would basically be pointless or very minor in terms of performance increase, then I would change my mind for sure.

It is essentially pointless when you already have 32gb of ram.

17 minutes ago, The Misanthrope said:

As title says, what in your mind would be better in my use case scenario. I mostly game and often have up to 50 tabs open in Chrome at the same time. I also record my gaming sessions and often have numerous programs running while I game.

 

16GB 3600Mhz 16-16-16-36 or 32GB 3600Mhz 19-20-20-40

 

Currently running a plain 2400Mhz 32GB.

 

Thx!

This is a ludicrously expensive upgrade for how little the gains are, especially for gaming and web browsing. Hope you have at least an RTX 2080TI if you are thinking about upgrades like this.

Get the 1tb version of that m.2 instead of 2 of them, it's even a couple bucks cheaper. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1


Also the 2x16gb trident Z's are 50 bucks cheaper and generally 2 sticks are better than 4 for stability.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232750&nm_mc=AFC-C8JunctionCA&cm_mmc=AFC-C8JunctionCA-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10592396&PID=3938566&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker%2C+LLC&cjevent=21e49cf81a1011e98148004b0a240613

I really like the case and always love a vertical gpu mount, components are decent for 1080p/1440p gaming.

Gpu without question, unless you have an absolute rubbish monitor always gpu, if you are a hardcore twitch shooter player an argument could be made but I'd still probably recommend gpu, 280 is pretty old and doubt it could even push 120hz let alone 144 and maintain it in most games.

Just now, Neo-revo said:

thanks i will have to find something to read on this, 

 

cause i under stand variable amperage is the rheostat/slider  working with the voltage to regulate the out put.   but i don't understand why  3 12v fans (left at 100% on knob/slider)    wont spin up 

 

i understand also  how the  resistance of the circuit effect IRL performance  and its not a perfect scaleable graph  the lower the voltage goes.

 

Do you mean the controller can tell that at lower voltages it cant handle the full load of all 3 fans?

 

 

I don't know how the protection works for your motherboard or your fan controller specifically which is why I keep saying I am guessing, the page you linked me for the controller tells me it has protections in place though. I don't own it personally.