SlayerOfHellWyrm

No. That's not actually seeing if you have an issue and trying to fix it. That's saying rather than find out where the leak is in your basement, you just buy a new house. You should troubleshoot this. So, let's cycle back to: Are you using the included 35W charger + MagSafe cable? If you are, do you have anything else also plugged into that charger? If you aren't, is it because you're using a different charger, or different cable? If different charger, please link it If using a USB-C cable instead, please link it, and, let me know if you have any sort of multi-port adapter in between.

MacBook Air (15-inch, M2, 2023) co0mes with a 2-port 35W USB-C charger and a USB-C to Mag Safe cable. It can also be charged over it's Thunderbolt 4 ports because... that's in the spec, and you can alternatively get a 70W fast charger. So... Are you using the included 35W charger + MagSafe cable? If you are, do you have anything else also plugged into that charger? If you aren't, is it because you're using a different charger, or different cable? If different charger, please link it If using a USB-C cable instead, please link it, and, let me know if you have any sort of multi-port adapter in between. You can also go into System Report and under power, it should tell you how much power it's pulling in, and from what charger (if it can identify it) which will help troubleshoot.

Which specific M2 MacBook Air do you have? You can confirm via About this Mac under System Preferences. Additionally, do you have anything between the charger and the MBA? I ask, as it's pretty common at work that folks will put a multi-port adapter in between to give themselves some USB-A ports and such, but they don't catch that the adapter needs 15W to work so then when they connect they included 29W charger, they are only providing 14W which is not enough to charge properly at all.

Most AIOs are not at all user serviceable though, and so this is very rare. It was a thing with the Enermax LiqTech II and some other one, but we don't know what they have yet, they didn't provide enough details.

Alrighty, let's go into lesson time for video cables and connections, because this is important. Do you need HDMI to DP, or DP to HDMI? Why am I asking? So, this is because these cables are not reversible. While both are a digital signal, they use very different signaling to communicate, and so you can't just go pin-to-pin from one side to the other*. So now, how do you know which one you need? Easy. The order tells you. Now, most people seem to list what they need in the order of monitor -> graphics card, but this is incorrect. You have to list what you need in the order of graphics card -> monitor. You can remember this by simply remembering which thing is actually making the video, as that's the direction the data is travelling. It's coming out of the graphics in your computer and going into the monitor. So, if you're going from DP on your card/laptop to HDMI on the monitor, you need a DP to HDMI cable/adapter. If you're going from HDMI on the card/laptop to DP on the monitor, you need an HDMI to DP solution. No. A video card, and USB video adapter are both OUTPUT devices. So, you can only output a signal from it. This is a USB HDMI capture card. This is intended to allow you to connect the HDMI output of a device like a console, a laptop, a media box, etc into the capture device and capture what is being sent to it. For instance, if you connected a PS4 to it, you could use some software to view the incoming video footage which would be the gameplay from the PS4 and then you could record it, or stream. You could use the software to just view it and use it as like, a ghetto way to use a laptop monitor as a monitor for a console. Don't do this though. Given the questions you've already asked, this is going to be a bit too much effort and complexity and you won't have a fun time. Not, to sound condescending, I just dealt with this at work for years and I have a good idea of where a user will struggle and hate what they are trying to do. In terms of "cheaper" adapters, I think the better question is what is your budget? You'll need to give the specific currency and I can find some that might work. I'll let you do the research into them, or maybe @GuiltySpark_ will be a bro and help you pick one. As mentioned before though, I won't make a particular recommendation given I work for a company that makes them, and I'm not an affiliate account. Total side note, if this is a laptop, what is the model? You might have some other way to do this. You can open up MSINFO32 (Windows + R -> MSINFO32 -> enter) and then provide the System Manufacturer, model, and SKU which should be lines 6, 7, and 8:

This tells me, the mount is 100% not correct, unless you bought a cheap AIO or, you're using like a 120mm AIO. That said, is this a new issue, or since day one?

Short answer is, probably not. 8-pin is rated for 150W, while 6-pin is rated for 75W. If they used an 8-pin, it's because they probably have the card configured to pull more than the 150W they'd be able to pull with a 6-pin and the slow, necessitating the extra room. Though, I can't say for certain without knowing which specific card to pull the specs for. Will it break things? Probably not, no. You'll possibly lose a +12V line, but the big thing is you'll lose the sense line so the GPU will know it only has 6 pins and so it may not use all the power it has.

Did you install the driver for it?

A PCIe to NVMe M.2 drive adapter, should not have any form of a chip on it, unless it's got more than one M.2 port. Then it may have a PCIe MUX (Multiplexer, or packet switcher) to handle the possibility of being in a system without PCIe bifurcation support. NVMe is PCIe, so when using on most adapter boards, it's just pin to pin, no chipset. My guess, is this is weirdly worded though and you mean the B450 chipset is what's causing the slot to be PCIe Gen 2.0. Anyway... Now just to make sure I'm understanding, you were booting of the SN550 before, you bought an SN850x to replace it and reused the 550, but the 850x doesn't seem to work in the same M.2 slot as the SN550 was in before, correct? However, moving it to that PCIe to M.2 NVMe adapter does work, only it's getting PCIe 2.0 speeds.? Is it showing up in the BIOS at all under System Status > System Status > M2_1? This is incorrect, the latest is 7C02v3I which is from October 28th, about 3 weeks ago. 7C02vHB doesn't seem to exist on their site, but I see a 7C02v3H1 (Beta version). As a note, MSI's QVL (Qualified Vendor List) only shows official support for the Samsun 980 Pro in it's 250GB, 500GB, 1TB, and 2TB versions in terms of Gen 4.0 SSDs being supported. Everything else is 3.0 for NVMe M.2.

Just to play Devil's Advocate, a box being beat to shit doesn't necessarily mean the product inside isn't still new. I've seen quite a few large retail boxes over all my years look better, the same, and far worse than that box all with new stuff in them. There's no discussion I wish to have on this, just pointing out that you don't know for certain. Best thing to do is point out your concerns and see what their response is.

Provided you aren't trying to do any sort of Hardware accelerated work (things like CAD, photo/video editing/games, etc) then a USB video adapter should suffice. A USB video adapter is NOT a full blown GPU though, so do not expect that level of performance. Depending on what chipset you go with, and how much VRMA (video RAM) it's paired with you may have an experience suitable only for light spreadsheet scrolling, or, you might be fine with full 4K60. Keep in mind though, as these are over USB, you will see higher system usage than normal. Various chipsets for this sort of thing exist including those made by DisplayLink, Magic Control Technology (MCT Trigger), Fresco Logic, Silicon Motion Images (SMI) and possibly some I'm not familiar with. DIsplayLink is kinda the go-to, but they all work. Many companies out there have options, from rando ones on Amazon to more established brands like Plugable, StarTech.com and Targus. Do some shopping around and find one that supports the resolution you want and go from there. As I work for one of these manufacturers, I will refrain from making a direct recommendation as I'm not here as an affiliate for that organization, but I don't want to get in trouble for shilling my own company's stuff without being properly labeled.

So, these speeds on your SEQ, are not possible for a SATA drive. The SATA protocol tops out realistically, around 600 MB/s. Why are you seeing 8380 MB/s then? You have a write cache enabled. Given the drive in question, it's Crucial's Momentum Cache which caches SEQ read and writes to your RAM. RAM, is hilariously faster than NVMe and so you end up with what you're seeing. You'll notice 2 things. 1) If you disable that cache, your speeds will plummet on the sequential to the 500 - 550 mark where they should be, and 2) when doing that test with the cache enabled, watch your RAM. It's going to spike in usage from the caching. Your Micron is 100% faster, and if you cached it with your RAM would be even faster, barring other bottlenecks.

The Nano slim slot is not user accessible unless configured with the WWAN module. Now, they do sell this module however, whether it can be added to pre-existing configs is hard to say. They could have it BIOS locked on models where it's not pre-installed, or models without it pre-installed may just not have the pre-requisite M.2 slot. It's safest for you to ask HP first. Also, judging by the price, that doesn't have the 5G WWAN module at all, and it's not listed anywhere. Granted, they list the HP part number as DGF4-i7321TB, but their part numbers would be more like 5KC87EP#ABA (that's the HP ZBook 15 G5 15.6) so I can't pull up the specific config.

Just because it was sent, doesn't necessarily mean their server actually received it for a number of reasons. I'm not looking to get more involved in this conversation than that, but your ISP cannot possibly tell you what their mail server did with the message. It could've been flagged by A/V mistakenly, accidentally deleted, dropped from a bad DMARC or SPF, etc. It sucks in all ways, but there's not much that can be done to prove they got the e-mail unless they responded to it back then. I wish you luck in your endeavor.

Could be a weird power issue or something. Especially since you said it happens with other adapters as well. Granted, not 100% certain. Since you have the powered hub already, and that seemed to work, why not just keep it in place?

What do you mean back connections? Are these not connected to the internal SATA ports of your board?

Have you checked to make sure both drives are still seen in the BIOS? If not, double-check the cable connections.

If you carrier says it's locked, it's locked. The IMEI check only tells you if it could work on their network, not if it's unlocked. Call the carrier and ask them via a person, and then ask about getting in unlocked if it is. Should be able to get that done for free.

Do you have more than one drive show up, you'd need to have more than one drive installed. You don't specify your storage setup at all, so I have to ask, do you have multiple drives connected to your system? What are those drives, and how are they connected?

So, this is incorrect in this case. The KVM is DP, the laptop is HDMI. So, they would need an HDMI to DP adapter, not DP to HDMI. The signals are similar, but different enough you can't passively convert without some special sauce which is normally a DP++ port. In @Infiniti's case, they need very specifically an HDMI to DP adapter, which will always be active and need to be active. This active circuitry converts from HDMI signaling and pinning, to DP. If it was DP to HDMI with a DP++ port, the port would handle the conversion but on a regular DP port, you'd again need an active solution. Granted, you asked about directionality so you seem to know this, but the full explanation may help others as well. As a note, bi-directional DP to HDMI/HDMI to DP cables are quite rare, expensive, and they are ALWAYS active, they have to be. Just wanted to clear that up as someone who works for a company manufacturing these types of solutions. I've had to explain this many times over the years.

It did, if you can find the A/V cable for it. It was not high-res, and looks pretty bad on most TVs nowadays. I used it a small handful of times, mostly to watch the few movies I had on UMD. @DoctorNick gave you the info you need though.

So, as someone that works for a company that sells products globally, forwarders pose a pretty large issue. Products may not be sold in a region for various reasons, and the big ones that can cause issues are either import/export bans, or, issues with certifications within a specific country. This is why we ban forwarders, and if you actively tell us your order is going to a location to be forwarded off to say, Korea where we lack relevant certifications to offer the products there, we will cancel the order. Why? The short answer is support is very difficult if not impossible. For instance, if you purchase the product and ship it to Korea and then have issues, we can't ship any sort of replacements products or parts to the region. Alternatively, if you have an issue with the product, and let's say there's a fire and property damage is resulted, what laws do you have backing you up at that point? Basically none, because the product was never supposed to be there in the first place. You would have no ground to stand on for consumer protection laws, or lacking a certification required for the reason when you actively worked to get the item in an unsupported region. This can also cause issues with liability and so it gets messy fast. This is an oversimplification, but it should help get the point across that there are issues allowing stuff to be forwarded to regions if you don't operate in them. It get's really bad for us with some countries where they're on the US entity list and so black-listed from companies working with them and their supply chain companies can't work with them either. Since we work with a bunch of Defense contractors, there are entire countries we're not allowed to ever work with without losing those customers. No working with forwarders is pretty reasonable as a result, but, it needs to be made pretty clear. We make it clear on our site that PO boxes, APO (army post office) and forwarders are not allowed. Do customers sometimes order to say, a US office and ship it themselves to a country we're blacklisted with working with? Of course, and we can't support them with RMAs when that happens and have to explain why, but this is why we cancel orders if we know that's going to happen.

That didn't work because USB-C to video adapters require the USB-C port to support video (DisplayPort Alternative mode) and your Acer TC-875's USB-C is data only (USB 3.2 Gen 1x1 5 Gbps). In terms of adding a 3rd monitor, my question is, what's the use case for it? I deal with recommendations like this daily, so knowing the full setup can help. A USB display adapter could work, but it won't if you're doing anything that needs hardware acceleration like AutoCAD, games, photo/video editing, etc. Additionally, the USB video adapter you'll want, will depend on the OS you're running, the resolution you need, and the performance you are looking for. Many vendors out their exist at many different price points, and there are many chipset options from Fresco Logic, to MCT Trigger, SiliconMotion, and DisplayLink. If you're able to answer the use case, OS in use, and monitor make/model you want to power I can certainly help out.

That said, Steam lets you configure download bandwidth limits so that you can avoid this by telling it never to take more than 500 Mb/s from a 1 Gb/s connection. It might be something to look into @JFK1350. i'm trying to recall off the top of my head as I'm not on my personal computer atm, but it should be something like Steam > Settings > Downloads > Download Restrictions > check off Limit bandwidth to: and then set the value in KB/s. Keep in mind, B/s vs b/s. 1000 KB/s (1MBs) is actually 8x that (8,000 Kb/s or 8Mb/s) when converted. This is because of bytes vs bits. Internet speeds are measured in bits, but Steam pulls shows in bytes. So, whatever you want to set the limit to, take that value then divide it by 8 (to go from bits to bytes), then convert to KB, and that's the value to put in.

Yeah, during startup that's completely normal. If they are PWM fans and continue to run full tilt when the system is idle, then that's an issue, however you speficied "whenever I boot up my pc" which indicates on startup.