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Bludude41

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About Bludude41

  • Birthday Jun 08, 1998

Contact Methods

  • Twitch.tv
    bludude4
  • Twitter
    @Bludude4

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Katy, Texas, U.S.A
  • Interests
    Longboarding, keyboards, and obviously computers.
  • Biography
    I am sixteen years old, and am a poor PC enthusiast. Is that a thing?
  • Occupation
    High School Student

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - OC: 3.2 GHz (Stock: 2.4 GHz)
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-P35-DS4
  • RAM
    DDR2 - Patriot G Series 1x4GB @400MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 (Reference)
  • Case
    NZXT Source 210 Window
  • Storage
    OCZ ARC100 120GB (Boot Drive), Western Digital 250GB, Western Digital 500GB, Seagate 320GB, Seagate 1TB (x2)
  • PSU
    EVGA NEX750B
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SyncMaster 204BW (1680x1050 @ 59Hz), Dell 1909W (1440x900 @ 75Hz)
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Nepton 140XL, Rosewill RNBL 120mm (x2, Top) Generic 120mm fan (x2, Front)
  • Keyboard
    CM Storm QuickFire Rapid (MX Blues)
  • Mouse
    Modified Mad Catz R.A.T.3
  • Sound
    Superlux HD668Bs, Turtle Beach X31s
  • Operating System
    Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
  • PCPartPicker URL

Bludude41's Achievements

  1. New developments. The Nepton 140XL is now leaking out of the radiator and I'm in need of a new CPU cooler. Can I get away with air cooling my 7800X? Does anyone know? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
  2. Just had a question for anyone that might have an answer. I have a Cooler Master Nepton 140XL all-in-one closed loop cooler that I bought in 2014, used it on my Z97 gaming rig for ~4.5 years, then upgraded my rig to X299 platform in January of this year (2019). During the upgrade, I noticed my CPU temps were skyrocketing, hitting Tj Max and shutting down the computer. My first troubleshooting step (since the CLC was almost 5 years old and never opened) was to pop open the AIO seal on the cooler, dump out the fluid that came with it from factory, and replace it all with distilled water.I quickly learned that the integrated water pump in the cooler wasn't running properly when connected to a header on the board, so I plugged it into my case's 3-pin fan splitter/hub (running off PSU molex) for non-PWM power (I don't mind my pump running at 100% 24/7, and I think that's exactly what plugging it into a PSU-molex-powered fan hub does, correct me if I'm wrong) With the pump power wired up to the PSU, the temps were fine (not stellar but definitely workable). 9 months later, I'm finally getting into overclocking my 7800X, and I've can get it to run at 4.5GHz, but the temps are eventually hitting 99C. Now my main question is: Is the CM Nepton 140XL simply not beefy enough of a cooler to keep my 7800X @ 4.5GHz cool enough, or could it be possibly clogged up with algae or something because I popped the seal 9 months ago? I know you're not supposed to open the CLCs, I opened mine because I thought enough coolant had evaporated over the years to where it needed to be topped off. Was I wrong? Maybe I added too much water back and it's causing the cooler to operate inefficiently? Also note that I have the radiator fan pulling air through the rad and out the top of the case, pics attached for further detail of cooling setup. Should I try installing the cooler in a different orientation? Maybe change it from pull to push config? Any suggestions are appreciated. Cheers, -Bludude4
  3. So I pulled off the "Warranty Void if Removed" sticker on the radiator fill port, pulled out the old coolant (which had a greenish tint) and put in some distilled water. It was a PITA, had to use a syringe, and tip the radiator every which way between shots because it would shoot right back out the port if I didn't. After I got it completely filled, I hooked it all back up, and the temps kept climbing. That's when I noticed the light on the CPU block, where the pump is. Upon boot, it would be lit up, but after a while, the light would dim, then go out. Not sure why, because I had it plugged into the fan header labeled "CPU PUMP". But I noticed that not long after the light on the block goes out, that's the temps skyrocket. So I plugged it into the molex-powered fan header in my Source 530, and the light is now staying completely lit up all the time, and my temps are staying around 32C at idle. Have yet to burn it in, but if anyone else decides to get a X299 UD4, plug their Nepton 240XL into their CPU PUMP header not touch the BIOS fan settings. and are wondering why their chip is hitting T-Junction, it's because your pump is turning off. (I tried plugging the pump into the "SYS_FAN1" header and it was still turning off. Whatever, I fixed it.) Thanks for the advice @fasauceome! EDIT: Ran IntelBurnTest, maxxed out the chip for a hot minute, and the temps only went up to 65C, which is waayy less than 100. Yaaayyyy!!
  4. So I recently upgraded my rig from a Z97 system to an X299 setup: Intel i7 7800X Gigabyte X299 UD4 Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz DDR4 and I just used my Nepton 140XL that was previously cooling my Z97 setup and bolted it onto the X299 setup. I've had this cooler for over 4 years, and even though it's a "sealed" unit, I'm pretty sure that over the years some water has evaporated because as I was remounting the radiator, I heard the water sloshing around like there was a good amount of air in the system. So I bolt everything up, and I have Core Temp running on my taskbar tray just to be sure, and after a while, my temperatures start climbing from 60°C, to 70, 80, it hits 100°C, and my chip starts throttling down to 700MHz. Now when I unplug the fan and pump from their headers and re-plug them back in, the temperatures go back down to ~40°C - 50°C, which (with what I have running) seems about right where they should be. I'm not sure if the pump is dying, or if it's because there's air in the system, but I can't have these temps go up to T-Junction like that. Should I try popping open the CLC and adding water to it? If so, is it distilled water that I add? Should I pick up some antimicrobial additive or something? Any/all help is much appreciated. Thanks! -Bludude4
  5. Interesting. Lemme mess around with the SATA port connections and see what happens, thanks! You read that simply on the overview page for the motherboard on Gigabyte's website? ?
  6. nope. not in disk management and not in the file browser.
  7. So about a week ago, I had some cash to blow and decided my Z97 rig was getting a little too slow for my liking, especially the SLI GTX 770s, which were showing their age in newer games. I started shopping on Amazon, Newegg and on the eBay used market, and ended up with this: CPU: Intel i7-7800X Mobo: Gigabyte X299-UD4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4 3000MHz which was an upgrade from: CPU: Intel i5-4690K Mobo: ASRock Z97 Extreme4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz so that was cool. I also got a Samsung 970EVO 240GB M.2 SSD to replace my old OCZ 128GB 2.5" SSD as the boot drive. I also have 4 mechanical drives that I've had for years, I didn't touch them in my case at all except for plugging them into the new Gigabyte mobo's SATA ports. After installing everything and hooking everything up I boot it for the first time, and notice something odd. It's detecting the M.2 drive, but only two of the four mechanical hard drives are being detected by the motherboard in the BIOS and in windows, the other 2 drives I don't see at all. After flipping through some BIOS settings, I noticed that this new X299 motherboard only 2 modes I can enable on the SATA controller: AHCI and RST (Rapid Storage Technology) My current hypothesis is that since I had the SATA controller on my Z97 rig set to IDE, that this new X299 motherboard's SATA controller would have to be in IDE mode to be able to detect them, but that's not listed as an option in the BIOS. I could be wrong, and I'm hoping that's not the case, because I wouldn't know what to do if it is. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to try? P.S. I've already tried swapping around SATA ports on the motherboard. Thanks in advance! -Bludude4
  8. I hear ya. I just re-managed both rigs so each box has their own respective cable set. Thanks!
  9. Okay. I think I saw JayzTwoCents do it in one of his videos several years ago, but I guess this is different. It won't be the end of of the world to tear everything out. Thanks for the info, peoples!
  10. So I'm doing an update in my home gaming rig. Taking out the Intel i5 Z97-GTX 770 hardware set, putting it in a slightly cheaper case, buying and installing an X299-1070 Ti hardware set and putting it where my old Z97 system used to be, which is in my NZXT Source 530. The only thing about that is, I have about 4 hard drIves, the 24 pin has cable extensions, and everything is zip-tied down in this rig. The power supply that's currently sitting in my upgraded home rig is an EVGA NEX750B. I bought an EVGA Supernova 750 G3 to replace the NEX750B What I'm hoping I can do is unplug all the modular cables from the PSU-end , de-route JUST the non-modular cables, and plug the Supernova G3 into the already-routed cables from the NEX750B. Is this possible, or would that blow something up? TL;DR: Are the modular cables for the EVGA Supernova G3 and the EVGA NEX750B intercompatible? Like the SATA, Molex, and PCI-E cables?
  11. AKG M220s, I have a pair and they're amazing.
  12. So over the past few years, I've accumulated a decent gaming rig/workstation, a small desktop purposed as a home server in my closet, and a 3 monitors. Two of them are Samsung 1680x1050 LCDs, one is bigger than the other. The smaller 1050p is my left display, the bigger one being my main middle display. To the right of my main is a 1440x900 Dell LCD. I have a reference GTX 770, and an MSI Z97 PC MATE. All three monitors have DVI and VGA inputs. My 770 has 2 DVIs, one HDMI, and one DisplayPort. I must use the VGA input on my left-flank monitor because DVI makes the video black out for a few seconds at random times. This is not a problem, because I just use one of the DVI ports on my 770, and use a DVI --> VGA adapter. All seems well, right? Well, I can't hook up my right-flank monitor because I'm using the other DVI port on my 770 for my middle monitor. Now. I have onboard video, so there are video connectors on my motherboard. I was wondering if there was a way to hook up my right-flank monitor up to say the motherboard DVI port and have my right-flank monitor running off of that. If not, I'll just buy an adapter, but shipping would take a while so I thought I'd ask here first. Any and all ideas/suggestions related to this thread are greatly appreciated.
  13. I'm going to try to start a thread where people will post screenshots of why they overclock their CPUs, GPUs, memory, monitors, etc. I'll go first.
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