ArduousFormula

Think about eBay, they have some cases (I got my 600t from one of their shops for well under half price) that are new but are being auctioned for a low price. You needn't look for an expensive one but for a mid ranged case that is half its retail price. It would cost less but you could be waiting a while for a good one to appear or you may not get one at all. Just check completed listings to see if you can find anything relevant recently sold. I think that this build would look different in a white case; however, this may not be what you want. ArduousFormula

I am very sorry for the late reply, I am currently on holiday (and therefore lack a good internet connection). I like the idea of changing the colour of the connectors for the ends of the cables and it is something that I wish I thought of when I sleeved mine a year or so ago. Something I would bear in mind is how effective this will look as the connections (certainly most visible on the GPU) to the cables are usually black which may be a minor problem depending on what angle you look through the case window. On the subject of colour schemes, I think that a main-colour of blue with an accent of white would be nice as a main-colour of white may not show up well in a white case. When you mentioned you were going to get your braiding pieces from the first link, did you mean the Watercooling UK one or the Overclock Net one? I got my stuff on Ebay, but that may not be the best option for you. If you were going to use the forum member shop, there is one that is definitely based in the UK (Shropshire) on OC3D by the name of Pexon who I believe is still doing it with a service to do the sleeving for a fee. ArduousFormula

I have custom sleeved the CX600, the PSU case comes apart quite easily and I found the pins in the Corsair connectors a bit stiff, but came away with a specially modified paperclip and some practice. This was not a warranty problem as I was going to remove the ugly sticker anyway that voided it. Of course, a modular one would be a bit easier and you don't necessarily have the warranty problem, being able to buy an extension cable already sleeved but it would mean that you would be able to spec a better processor. ArduousFormula

I have the corsair cx600 in my computer at the moment and it is excellent. It is also cheap. Check aria.co.uk for some cheap stuff because when I built my system they were the best at the time. ArduousFormula

I would be very careful, these LEDs will be small and you will need a good soldering iron. I have modded Xbox 360 controllers before and the contacts for the LEDs for the centre ring (which I assume are a very similar size) would be too small for someone to do with a normal iron, you would need a fine tip and extensive skill as there may be components that are damaged by heat in a compact space. I don't think RGB LEDs would be possible without a big change in the circuit, they have more contacts so it wouldn't be a direct swap. ArduousFormula

@bryannahangman Can I ask how you are planning on sleeving it? Are you going to use heatshrink or just melt the sleeve, what sleeve are you using and stuff like that. When I sleeved my computer, I found that paracord was the cheapest and best-looking way of doing it. This also meant that I didn't have to use heatshrink on the connectors to the components which has a cool look. If you haven't already got the sleeving to do it, I suggest researching this method as I think the results are better than some of the specific solutions you can get. ArduousFormula

I think that I should be banned from this forum as a punishment for the height of my stupidity. The Hard drive power cable was in fact not put in because it was in such an awkward spot. I apoligise for wasting everyone's time and I will mark this thread as solved and thank you for your help in reminding me to check the obvious but elusive part. ArduousFormula

My System: i5 3570k XFX 7870 Asus P8Z77 - V LX 8GB Corsair Vengeance 500GB Seagate Corsair CX600 The computer was cleaned as per the instructions on Linus' video and, when I put the system back together, the computer fails to start. When plugged in, the LED for power is working. This tells me that the mobo must be working to some extent as this is working; however, this is just a simple circuit so another part of it may be broken. When switched on, the fans in the case fire up but only for less than a second. The CPU fan doesn't start (it usually starts about 2 seconds into it being switched on) but no other noises or visual signs appear. The monitor is plugged into the GPU via HDMI so I believe it is unrelated. I am sure there aren't any problems with bios or software as the system was working flawlessly for the past two years beforehand; the only change has been in hardware therefore that must be the problem. What has changed: I took the GPU out of the PCI slot and I unplugged the hard drive. I did some minor cable management so the power to the motherboard was removed. I have checked the obvious of these not being plugged in but, as I said, the power LED on the mobo is on. All parts of the computer system were sprayed with an air duster and the GPU was brushed clean with a paint brush as it was a bit tough to remove the dust. I deliberately didn't do the areas that were heavily populated by chips with a brush but I am still using a stock cooler on the CPU which was blasted directly by air, as was the RAM. After dissasembling the computer, I left the parts on the table overnight. This was the hard drive and the GPU. They were left on notepads so were elevated from the static-generating tablecloth. I assembled my computer on it to start with and hadn't hada problem before. The air duster I used: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Star-Duster-Compressed-Flammable-400ml/dp/B000O1HRHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405071588&sr=8-2&keywords=air+duster I noticed that sometimes the duster outputs the gases in a liquid form. I alternated between the two so that they didn't get too cold however I noticed a small build up of this stuff. Isopropane, propane and butane are - to my knowledge - not conductive so I thought nothing of it. Thanks for any help you can provide, I cannot bear this laptop for too long ArduousFormula

I have done some research into this topic myself recently and found that - for me - Arctic MX2 was the best. It is non conductive, cheap and didn't seem bad in the benchmarks I saw, it would be my suggestion. The problem I have heard with that paste is that it has a long break-in time, being something like a week of power up/down cycles (or a year of normal use). If you are new (like me) then it seems like a similar product to the ones that come with the H100, beQuiet and the like are good enough. I think that the MX2 comes under this section of easy-to-use low break-in time but effective pastes; however, the coolaboratory you are mentioning is much harder to use and a more advanced (hardcore almost, from what I have heard) product. The differences are so small most applications will be fine with the Arctic MX2 and it allows you to make a mistake and not break the system. As for amounts, I have no clue. But it from the installation videos I have seen of GPUs, I wouldn't have thought you would need more than a tube of this stuff if you spent £12 on it. http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=TH-008-AR Don't quote me on the amounts, as I have never done it before. I think that should be enough though looking at the size of GPU contacts to the heatsink. ArduousFormula

I have only been following CS:GO esports for the past 4 or so months in almost full, and then watched the odd game before that. My favourite team is Virtus Pro, purely because I have enjoyed all of the games they have been in - my first tournament I watched fully was them vs HellRaisers which they won but were then beaten by LGB in hte final. I also like the way they play the game. I don't really follow NA teams that much - I have heard of Complexity and Curse but that is about it. Call me a noob, but I didn't necessarily enjoy watching NiP destroy NaVi in Dreamhack Summer in the same way as I enjoyed VP get a huge comeback against Complexity in the cast WarOwl posted a day or so ago. ArduousFormula

I have read on various other forums that you need to be careful with the primochill tubing as it has a plasticiser in the plastic that can gunk up in the loop and cause flow problems. I have read that the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT is absolutely fine when it comes to this problem; however, I have only read this from secondary research and cannot guarantee anything. Primochill may have solved this problem by now as the source I have used is about a year old by this date, but it is best to be on the safe side as I have heard nothing but good reviews for the PrimoFlex Advanced LRT.

How likely is it that the res would experience temperatures in excess of 60C? If I execute the loop the way I plan, the loop would go pump > GPU (when, and if, I get a block and new one) > CPU > radiator > res. Would this mean that the res would not experience high temperatures? I have heard of systems in cars called turbo timers. This is where the cooling of the turbo is maintained after the car is stopped by leaving the engine on to keep it cool. Has anyone done this in a computer and is it necessary? This prevents the need of driving a car slowly after a burnout etc. and is it wise to (for example, straight after benchmarking) leave a computer on after such use to let the watercooling system to cool down so that there isn't any really warm water staying in my system ccausing damage? ArduousFormula

@airdeano Wow, nice to see you here as well I have been on OC3D for a few years (although an infrequent contributor) where you seemed prominent, you are a keen bean! Thanks for the quick reply. I fear the inevitable is going to have to happen; having to dish out more than I hoped for a loop. I'll get saving a bit then. Seems like the EK res/pump combo will be the best suited unless anyone else has a better idea. ArduousFormula

I am looking into watercooling and the biggest expense I have come across is the pump, pump tops (if applicable) and reservoir - in my eyes, these come under the same general umbrella in a loop. I have had a few thoughts: XSPC Photon 170mm with a D5 pump combo (132 GBP, 241 CAD, 227 USD) EK X-RES 140mm with DDC pump combo (103 GBP, 188 CAD, 177 USD) XSPC 750lph bay reservoir (60 GBP, 110 CAD, 103 USD) Any other suggestions (although I live in the UK, so selection may be marginally limited) The big question: What pump/res combo would be best in my proposed loop for the cost effectiveness side of things? Aspects to think about: DDC vs D5 in this application, Could I get away with the XSPC 750lph pump? Proposed Loop: Alphacool UT60 360 Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 7/16 diameter tubing - XSPC blue tubing Almost definite espansion to a single GPU in the near future. Arctic MX2 Thermal Paste Bitspower 1/2 Black Barb No clips (smaller tubing than barb) 3x Corsair SP120 HP Fans (yes, they will be in pull configuration after hearing Linus' opinion on the subject) If there are any errors or omissions in the loop - or products that seem a bad choice, I would appreciate to be notified. If I decide to go ahead with the build, I may post a log of the system as I will be fitting a 360 rad in the front of a 600t which could be interesting. Thanks for any help you can provide ArduousFormula