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Showing results for tags 'yellow'.
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Hello, I tried building my first PC today, but it doesn't seem to boot up (the RGB and the fans turn on though). The motherboard flashes red, than yellow/orange, then white and stays white at that point. I also noticed that the GPU's fans didn't turn on And it could be important to note that the PSU I bought came we 2 PCIe cables and 2 CPU cables to connect to the motherboard. I connected the two CPU cables, but then noticed that my GPU had 3 PCIe slots for my 2 remaining cables (and there are no other PCIe/CPU slots free on the PSU anyway. The only way to plug in a third PCIE would be to unplug one of the Cpu cables, buy an additional PCIe cable and plug that additional cable to the motherboard, but is that what I need to do? Would this really fix the issue?) I hope I can quickly fix and that this is not a problem like a damaged component (but it shouldn't be. Everything looked good). And I only had a bit of difficulty when seating the ram (had to push a little more) More details on the build: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vv9bL9 -
Yellow Ferrari Enzo in front of a Bugatti Veryon 16.4
SamThePenguin posted a gallery image in Members Albums Category
From the album: Cars N Stuff
A Yellow Ferrari Enzo In front of a Bugatti Veryon 16.4 (People and there money) -
KDBfans x MITO Laser Cyan & Pink - Gateron Yellow Gets a Facelift
jiyeon posted a blog entry in Sowon's Switches Reviews
KBDfans teamed up with MITO and Gateron to create quite eccentric switches, known as the MITO Laser switches, with the design of the switches derived from MITO's Laser keycaps, which have the same purple, pink, and blue visual. Honestly, I had picked some of these up because of their color, otherwise, I would have bought regular Gateron Yellows and called it a day, as the MITO Laser switches are near-enough identical to the Gateron Yellows, but with a facelift, and different weight options. The MITO Laser switches come in Cyan or Pink flavours, which are 60g and 70g weights respectively. I opted to buy both, but for the purposes of review and usage, I went with the Cyan 60g switches as I prefer lighter actuation, I have very delicate fingers so anything heavier than 70g tends to tire my little fingers out quicker than most. Opening up the switch, it looks like any other standard linear switch on the market, with a standard two-piece bottom and top housing, a 60g gold spring, and an MX-style stem with linear legs. This again is reminiscent of the Gateron Yellow, the switch that the MITO Laser has essentially been cloned from. Nothing very special. It's smooth like any other linear, and the 60g weight is a great choice for someone like me. The materials used specifically for the housings feel particularly rough compared to a milky-topped Gateron Yellow, I don't know if that's because of the coating involved to get that purple, but the premium I paid to get these switches over Gateron Yellows is noticeably made more apparent by the coating being a bit rougher. In this instance, I would definitely prefer milky-topped Yellows. Milky-topped Yellows also produce a much deeper, thockier sound than these MITO Laser switches, which by comparison, sounds a lot more higher-pitched, at least when I lubed my 60g Cyan MITO Laser switches with Tribosys 3204. The keen follower might have remembered that I reviewed the Gateron Yellows before, which were the milky-topped version: In a nutshell, and to prevent this talking head style review from dragging on more than anything, the TL:DR is that the MITO Laser switches are nothing particularly special, apart from the color. They are nearly identical to the Gateron Yellows, but feature two weights at 60g & 70g, and come in a purple housing, otherwise, there is nothing to differentiate the technically three different switches which were discussed today. If purple and blue/pink is your thing, and you must have the color, and you like either 60g or 70g weights, the MITO Laser switches fit a small niche of users who are after a different aesthetic from the typical Gateron Yellows for sale on the market. -
The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch designed and manufactured by Gateron, to along with their line-up of linear switches such as the Gateron Red and Gateron Black. The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch with distinct similarities to the Gateron Red, with a slightly heavier spring at 50g actuation versus the Red's actuation at 45g. In this sense, the Gateron Yellow is essentially a slightly heavier Gateron Red, and in my experience, that holds true. Looking at the stem, it's about as standard as a linear MX stem goes, with the iconic MX top piece, and the smooth legs on the front of the stem. In Gateron's case, the material of the stem is extremely smooth, similar to their Gateron Red and Gateron Ink Black stems in particular. The stem is in a bumblebee yellow, and is quite literally the same as the Gateron Red's stem, just with a different color. The Gateron Yellow takes lubing well, I lubed Gateron Yellows with Tribosys 3204 and it improved smoothness a lot, as well as increased the 'thock' sound signature. This is again similar to the characteristics to the Gateron Red, and I can't convey just how similar this switch is to a Gateron Red. In essence, the Gateron Yellow is a Gateron Red with a heavier spring, it shares the same housing characteristics as the Gateron Red, whilst also inheriting the lubing capabilities of other Gateron linear switches. I have previously reviewed the MX Red, and used a Gateron Red as the example there, you can read the review here.
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S A N D W A S P This my first time documenting a system build in this sort of format. I've been building my own systems for years but never really evolved much beyond the "buy a load of components and throw them in a system" until 3-4 years ago when I built what I suppose was the first incarnation of Sandwasp- A Corsair C70 Vengeance with some small custom tweaks (smoked side panel, PSU shroud), a 5820K and GTX1080 and lots of black/grey/yellow detailing which looked something like this I've kept with the colour theme over the years, most recently rebuilding it into a Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL along with some custom cables from Shakmods and SP120 fan rings I've sprayed to match the colour scheme. Spec Intel Core i7 6900K (4.2GHz/1.265v) MSI X99A MPOWER EVGA Geforce RTX2080 XC 32GB Corsair Dominator DDR4-3000 I'd planned on doing my first custom loop, initially in the C70 then subsequently in the O11 and had started sourcing components for it, but other things got in the way and I always ended up selling off bits and never making the jump, but the combination of plenty of working-from-home time following the birth of our daughter and a rediscovered interest in DIY and tinkering has pushed me to actually have a proper crack at it. There's going to be a lot of first for me in this build- first time having proper custom components made up, first time loop planning. Like just about everyone else with an O11 XL I'm going to be using a distro plate; the twist is that I'm hoping to use a custom plate modelled after the EKWB G1 but modified to allow the use of a D5 pump. Some enterprising fellow on GrabCAD by the name of Pedro Azevedo (shout out if you're a member on here) already produced a model for a modified version of the EKWB G1 configured for a D5 (https://grabcad.com/library/lian-li-pc-o-11-d5-pump-distro-1), which with some minor tweaks (such as addition of a rear fill port and countersinking) and a few cosmetic alterations is looking pretty ace. Currently getting quotes for production of the acrylic front/rear. The pump mount I'll probably have 3D printed in POM. The aluminium side cover will be laser cut, unlike the G1 it doesn't have a cutout for an RGB strip as I'm not intending on having any RGB in the system but I felt it looked a bit bare without it. The case will need minor modifications to fit- just two support brackets in the side being dremelled back. I've also started piecing together an I/O cover for the motherboard, initially using Cardboard Aided Design (excuse the dust, it's very fine bentonite clay from the cat's litter tray and gets everywhere...so much for "no-dust"): And a quick and dirty WIP in Fusion360 with a bit of detailing Not totally happy, so will probably redo it. CPU block arrived from Germany. The planned spec looks something like this: CPU: Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro Acryl/Nickel GPU: Watercool Heatkiller IV Acryl/Nickel/Black Pump: XSPC D5 PWM Sata Distribution Plate: Custom version of EKWB G1 designed to fit a D5 instead of DDC pump Radiators: Assuming current supply issues sort themselves out, Hardware Labs nemesis GTX360 bottom and either GTX or GTS360 top (depending on clearance). If not, Corsair XR7/XR5. Fans: Undecided. Currently leaning towards Be Quiet Silent Wings 3, but if the promised Noctua Chromax A12x25 come out before then probably those. Tubing: EK-Tube ZMT 12x16 Matte Black Fittings: TBD, probably EKWB Coolant: Mayhem's Pastel Yellow Other ideas that I'm still deciding on: > Motherboard armour > Etching the glass panels > A second RTX2080 > Moving to X299/i9-10920X
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Hi I need help!! So yesterday I decided to upgrade my PC with a new water cooler and more RAM, after installing the water cooler and extra RAM it does not boot to the bios anymore. I’ve tried removing all the RAM and only using 1 stick which works but it stays at 2133 mhz, I then tried 2 sticks of RAM which works but only when they’re in slots A1 and A2, if I move A2 to B1 it doesn’t boot to bios. Also when I am able to boot into windows the yellow led on the motherboard remains on and it remains at 2133 mhz. Before this my computer worked fine so I have no idea what’s happened! Any help would be great! Thank you! These are my previous specs before I upgraded: ASUS ROG STRIX B450 F AMD RYZEN 7 2700X MSI Radeon RX 580 8G CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 2x8GB -
Today I saw a black widow chroma v2 at microcenter and bought it, comes with the same wrist rest as the Mecha-membrane one (ornata) and looks similar. I noticed on the back they advertise a new switch that is linear, and "razer yellow" with a 1.2mm actuation, no doubt to combat the rapid fire from corsair. I can't find anything about these online so I had to buy it, of course.
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I am starting a new case mod that I am naming Cerulean, a mix between blue and green, which will be the primary color of this mod. I will also add some yellow highlights. Specs: Intel Xeon 2609 v3 ASRock X99 Extreme3 Motherboard 16gb HyperX Fury DDR4 (4x4gb) 240gb HyperX Savage SSD (Graphics Card TBC) Silverstone Raven 2 Case Sponsors: HyperX The Plan: Create a front window to showcase the graphics card. Make a power supply shroud. Paint the case blue with yellow highlights.
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I just wanna document my experience with building a watercooling setup on the "cheap". When I had researched parts and what to do I was fronted with one singular and crucial question; buy expensive, branded parts or get unknown branded parts. In the end I had chosen the latter choice (barrow fittings, unknown chinese pump and res, some weird tubing company) and ended up with a system that has served me well since the beginning of this year. the one thing I would not have skimped out on though are compression fittings (if hardline tube) because they have the best and most secure fit in my mind. Here's a pic of my build (first watercooled build btw)
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Hey, i turned on my laptop the other day and the screen had a yellow splodge at the edge of the screen. It seems to move around the edge of the screen. It has been like this for a few weeks and i have tried to calibrate the screen but nothing any help?
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Hello I have a problem with my samsung galaxy S5, The problem is when i turn it on (or wake it up) it screen flashes yellow and then goes black, stragely the screen still reacts to me touching it. But ofcourse, i cant do anything cause i cant see anything. Anyone has the same problem and got it fixed?
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So I'm buying my first mechanical keyboard soon and have tested out my friends K70 with Browns. While i enjoyed the tactile bump for typing, i felt as if it was just slight enough to be "annoying" in FPS games where fingers are constantly placed on the WASD keys. I tend to be very light on my fingers and was wondering if a more Linear feeling switch would be a little more "Lighter" feeling than Tactile, with less force being necessary for key presses. While searching for the more popular options, i came across both the Cherry Speed switches (K95 Platinum) and the Razer Yellow (Blackwidow Chroma V2). I was wondering if anyone has had experience with either keys and could give their opinions. From what I heard Razer has had quality control issues in the past with their switches, but I think has since "fixed" or at least improved in time?
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Opened up photoshop today and saw this, left screen (Screen_1) is normal, but the right screen (Screen_2) the white becomes vanilla colored. This happens whenever i open an editing software like ps or a TIF file, i have no idea what has happened as it was fine just a couple of days ago. I have tried calibrating and restarting my pc, but i can't seem to find out what is causing this.
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Hi! Do you know other black and yellow cpu coolers other than arctic 33 esports? I dont mind buying that one, but I want to know other options. I need black and yellow because it needs to match my z77 mpower and hd 7970 lightning gpus.
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Hi guys, Just today and now about 30 mins ago everything was fine but all of a sudden i was surfing the internet and my screen started to flicker (sometimes yellow, light yellow white, off white). I cannot understand what's the problem. I am using Desktop PC with the latest version of windows 10 on it.
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Hey everybody, I'm brand new to this forum but have been planning on building a new computer for quite sometime and since im finally in a position where i can spend a good amount of money on a project so i can do it right, and so i wanted some input as to making this build the best it can be, that being said, i consider myself an meme connoisseur, and i'm going to build the ultimate mountain dew themed computer my plans are to have a grey case and have an artist friend of mine paint on (potentally on an piece of vinal that will be sticked onto the case idk) a mountain dew logo such as this: http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/logopedia/images/a/ae/New_Mountian_Dew_logo.png/revision/latest?cb=20150420005118 and on the side without glass it will have a nutritional facts section stating the specs of the computer, inside i'm going for as much yellow as possible, with yellow cooling fluid that is shown off by yellow LEDs and transperant waterblocks. here is a rough draft of my current plans, http://pcpartpicker.com/list/63Tgbj the major theme is a gray case with all black/yellow parts, unfortunately but not surprisingly, these are not easy to come by and it sort of constrains the build and so i've had to compromise im going with all watercooling mainly and a big case with alot of fans because i live in a barracks in japan, and anybody thats ever been to japan knows, the summers are brutal and the computer is already going to be in a mildly small room, i'd like input on the motherboard definitely as it was one of the only ones i could find that were yellow, im going with 2 crossfired rx 480's because they are only slightly worse then a 1080 at a much nicer price point and i've always fancied AMD. any help/ critique is greatly appreciated
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I'm thinking on adding yellow or amber LEDs between the V cards to add some more color to the lighting. Originally I was thinking on adding a vinyl image of the fallout boy since I have 2 EVGA Fallout editions 970's in SLI in my case. I guess what I should be asking, will the yellow and red LED clash with the blue LEDs.
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I am trying to find some parts for a white and yellow pc build, my budget is around $1000 to $1750 around that price range is good. i just need some help finding parts cause i am not that great at finding good parts. 1 thing i did find that looks cool but i don't know if it is any good is the Zotac GeForce Gtx 1070 AMP! Extreme. thanks for any help
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If you aren't using f.lux then..... well, you might be looking into a very bright bluish tinted white monitor right now, and if it's night, it can delay your sleep! Yep, your screen, putting out bright white light, just like ANYTHING else that generates it's own light, will delay your sleep. So here's how I look at it: Most of us loving using a computer, and doing cool stuff with them. So, if you sleep well, you wake up refreshed, and you have great cool ideas. If you don't sleep as well, because you stared into your computer screen all night, well, you don't do quite as cool stuff. So, I think that sums it up, go download f.lux. You should get to a peachy orange page with f.lux written all over it!
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Nintendo Direct: https://youtu.be/RcgxbB1BB9E?t=24m52s Apparently trading will not need a link cable with modded capabilities (as hoped). I'm hyped. Too bad there's not a lot more information to talk about, though. It's expected to be released on February 27th, 2016. I wonder if Yellow will still have the Mew glitch.
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As the title states I am looking to buy yellow cherry mx modifiers keycaps. I would only need the ones for a 60% keyboard but I can deal with the set having extra. If you can look for PBT double shot keycaps, thanks. Elite Keyboards has some but not all of the modifiers
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Hey guys, just a quick question. I've been wanting to do a yellow build for a while now. I really like the black and yellow color scheme, and so I've been looking for a very specific kind of ram. it's the Avexir MPower set, part of their blitz series. Unfortunately, i've had little luck finding them new, or used for that matter. What makes it worse is that there is another set under the same name of their Core series, which doesn't have the mpower branding i'm looking for, which wouldn't bother me, if it wasn't just as rare. I have had luck finding a 8gb kit of the red gaming dragon ram, but it would be difficult to make them yellow. Plus, it's no better in speed or capacity then my gskill ram I currently have. I was hoping you guys could help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Or, if you guys can help me find a yellow ram equivalent (such as crucial platinum dominators with the lighting kit painted yellow..)
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Hi everyone, So I bought myself a new monitor and decided to put an old one as a second. Now my main monitor is running over HDMI (AMD 970 OC Edition) and I plug in my second monitor over DVI adapter that I connected to VGA. After that everything is okay but my monitor has yellow tint and its distorted (hurts my eyes a lot). I tried changing those presets with the color and stuff and nothing. I even plugged it to VGA on my motherboard and nothing. Funny thing is, I already used that old monitor as a primary and it worked good, but when I put it as a second it has a problem. Can anyone help me solve this please ?
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(POLL) Edit: OOOOF there's grey and white. Sorry I never knew. Very rare. Anyone know any mechanical sample products (AU). There's one on eBay but that's $25. What does the o ring mod do?
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Okay so i need some help i want yellow ish color am like the adata v2 gold , but there is no 2x8gb 1600/1866 kits in my country so i need other suggestions.
