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  1. S A N D W A S P This my first time documenting a system build in this sort of format. I've been building my own systems for years but never really evolved much beyond the "buy a load of components and throw them in a system" until 3-4 years ago when I built what I suppose was the first incarnation of Sandwasp- A Corsair C70 Vengeance with some small custom tweaks (smoked side panel, PSU shroud), a 5820K and GTX1080 and lots of black/grey/yellow detailing which looked something like this I've kept with the colour theme over the years, most recently rebuilding it into a Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL along with some custom cables from Shakmods and SP120 fan rings I've sprayed to match the colour scheme. Spec Intel Core i7 6900K (4.2GHz/1.265v) MSI X99A MPOWER EVGA Geforce RTX2080 XC 32GB Corsair Dominator DDR4-3000 I'd planned on doing my first custom loop, initially in the C70 then subsequently in the O11 and had started sourcing components for it, but other things got in the way and I always ended up selling off bits and never making the jump, but the combination of plenty of working-from-home time following the birth of our daughter and a rediscovered interest in DIY and tinkering has pushed me to actually have a proper crack at it. There's going to be a lot of first for me in this build- first time having proper custom components made up, first time loop planning. Like just about everyone else with an O11 XL I'm going to be using a distro plate; the twist is that I'm hoping to use a custom plate modelled after the EKWB G1 but modified to allow the use of a D5 pump. Some enterprising fellow on GrabCAD by the name of Pedro Azevedo (shout out if you're a member on here) already produced a model for a modified version of the EKWB G1 configured for a D5 (https://grabcad.com/library/lian-li-pc-o-11-d5-pump-distro-1), which with some minor tweaks (such as addition of a rear fill port and countersinking) and a few cosmetic alterations is looking pretty ace. Currently getting quotes for production of the acrylic front/rear. The pump mount I'll probably have 3D printed in POM. The aluminium side cover will be laser cut, unlike the G1 it doesn't have a cutout for an RGB strip as I'm not intending on having any RGB in the system but I felt it looked a bit bare without it. The case will need minor modifications to fit- just two support brackets in the side being dremelled back. I've also started piecing together an I/O cover for the motherboard, initially using Cardboard Aided Design (excuse the dust, it's very fine bentonite clay from the cat's litter tray and gets everywhere...so much for "no-dust"): And a quick and dirty WIP in Fusion360 with a bit of detailing Not totally happy, so will probably redo it. CPU block arrived from Germany. The planned spec looks something like this: CPU: Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro Acryl/Nickel GPU: Watercool Heatkiller IV Acryl/Nickel/Black Pump: XSPC D5 PWM Sata Distribution Plate: Custom version of EKWB G1 designed to fit a D5 instead of DDC pump Radiators: Assuming current supply issues sort themselves out, Hardware Labs nemesis GTX360 bottom and either GTX or GTS360 top (depending on clearance). If not, Corsair XR7/XR5. Fans: Undecided. Currently leaning towards Be Quiet Silent Wings 3, but if the promised Noctua Chromax A12x25 come out before then probably those. Tubing: EK-Tube ZMT 12x16 Matte Black Fittings: TBD, probably EKWB Coolant: Mayhem's Pastel Yellow Other ideas that I'm still deciding on: > Motherboard armour > Etching the glass panels > A second RTX2080 > Moving to X299/i9-10920X
  2. Okay so i need some help i want yellow ish color am like the adata v2 gold , but there is no 2x8gb 1600/1866 kits in my country so i need other suggestions.
  3. KBDfans teamed up with MITO and Gateron to create quite eccentric switches, known as the MITO Laser switches, with the design of the switches derived from MITO's Laser keycaps, which have the same purple, pink, and blue visual. Honestly, I had picked some of these up because of their color, otherwise, I would have bought regular Gateron Yellows and called it a day, as the MITO Laser switches are near-enough identical to the Gateron Yellows, but with a facelift, and different weight options. The MITO Laser switches come in Cyan or Pink flavours, which are 60g and 70g weights respectively. I opted to buy both, but for the purposes of review and usage, I went with the Cyan 60g switches as I prefer lighter actuation, I have very delicate fingers so anything heavier than 70g tends to tire my little fingers out quicker than most. Opening up the switch, it looks like any other standard linear switch on the market, with a standard two-piece bottom and top housing, a 60g gold spring, and an MX-style stem with linear legs. This again is reminiscent of the Gateron Yellow, the switch that the MITO Laser has essentially been cloned from. Nothing very special. It's smooth like any other linear, and the 60g weight is a great choice for someone like me. The materials used specifically for the housings feel particularly rough compared to a milky-topped Gateron Yellow, I don't know if that's because of the coating involved to get that purple, but the premium I paid to get these switches over Gateron Yellows is noticeably made more apparent by the coating being a bit rougher. In this instance, I would definitely prefer milky-topped Yellows. Milky-topped Yellows also produce a much deeper, thockier sound than these MITO Laser switches, which by comparison, sounds a lot more higher-pitched, at least when I lubed my 60g Cyan MITO Laser switches with Tribosys 3204. The keen follower might have remembered that I reviewed the Gateron Yellows before, which were the milky-topped version: In a nutshell, and to prevent this talking head style review from dragging on more than anything, the TL:DR is that the MITO Laser switches are nothing particularly special, apart from the color. They are nearly identical to the Gateron Yellows, but feature two weights at 60g & 70g, and come in a purple housing, otherwise, there is nothing to differentiate the technically three different switches which were discussed today. If purple and blue/pink is your thing, and you must have the color, and you like either 60g or 70g weights, the MITO Laser switches fit a small niche of users who are after a different aesthetic from the typical Gateron Yellows for sale on the market.
  4. Hi I need help!! So yesterday I decided to upgrade my PC with a new water cooler and more RAM, after installing the water cooler and extra RAM it does not boot to the bios anymore. I’ve tried removing all the RAM and only using 1 stick which works but it stays at 2133 mhz, I then tried 2 sticks of RAM which works but only when they’re in slots A1 and A2, if I move A2 to B1 it doesn’t boot to bios. Also when I am able to boot into windows the yellow led on the motherboard remains on and it remains at 2133 mhz. Before this my computer worked fine so I have no idea what’s happened! Any help would be great! Thank you! These are my previous specs before I upgraded: ASUS ROG STRIX B450 F AMD RYZEN 7 2700X MSI Radeon RX 580 8G CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 2x8GB
  5. The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch designed and manufactured by Gateron, to along with their line-up of linear switches such as the Gateron Red and Gateron Black. The Gateron Yellow is a linear switch with distinct similarities to the Gateron Red, with a slightly heavier spring at 50g actuation versus the Red's actuation at 45g. In this sense, the Gateron Yellow is essentially a slightly heavier Gateron Red, and in my experience, that holds true. Looking at the stem, it's about as standard as a linear MX stem goes, with the iconic MX top piece, and the smooth legs on the front of the stem. In Gateron's case, the material of the stem is extremely smooth, similar to their Gateron Red and Gateron Ink Black stems in particular. The stem is in a bumblebee yellow, and is quite literally the same as the Gateron Red's stem, just with a different color. The Gateron Yellow takes lubing well, I lubed Gateron Yellows with Tribosys 3204 and it improved smoothness a lot, as well as increased the 'thock' sound signature. This is again similar to the characteristics to the Gateron Red, and I can't convey just how similar this switch is to a Gateron Red. In essence, the Gateron Yellow is a Gateron Red with a heavier spring, it shares the same housing characteristics as the Gateron Red, whilst also inheriting the lubing capabilities of other Gateron linear switches. I have previously reviewed the MX Red, and used a Gateron Red as the example there, you can read the review here.
  6. Opened up photoshop today and saw this, left screen (Screen_1) is normal, but the right screen (Screen_2) the white becomes vanilla colored. This happens whenever i open an editing software like ps or a TIF file, i have no idea what has happened as it was fine just a couple of days ago. I have tried calibrating and restarting my pc, but i can't seem to find out what is causing this.
  7. Hey guys, just a quick question. I've been wanting to do a yellow build for a while now. I really like the black and yellow color scheme, and so I've been looking for a very specific kind of ram. it's the Avexir MPower set, part of their blitz series. Unfortunately, i've had little luck finding them new, or used for that matter. What makes it worse is that there is another set under the same name of their Core series, which doesn't have the mpower branding i'm looking for, which wouldn't bother me, if it wasn't just as rare. I have had luck finding a 8gb kit of the red gaming dragon ram, but it would be difficult to make them yellow. Plus, it's no better in speed or capacity then my gskill ram I currently have. I was hoping you guys could help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Or, if you guys can help me find a yellow ram equivalent (such as crucial platinum dominators with the lighting kit painted yellow..)
  8. Hi everyone, So I bought myself a new monitor and decided to put an old one as a second. Now my main monitor is running over HDMI (AMD 970 OC Edition) and I plug in my second monitor over DVI adapter that I connected to VGA. After that everything is okay but my monitor has yellow tint and its distorted (hurts my eyes a lot). I tried changing those presets with the color and stuff and nothing. I even plugged it to VGA on my motherboard and nothing. Funny thing is, I already used that old monitor as a primary and it worked good, but when I put it as a second it has a problem. Can anyone help me solve this please ?
  9. Sooo. I was wondering how people like the design and preformance of this build. Please tell me your thoughts on the build and what I should change. (MY BUDGET IS 700$) http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Hairy07/saved/3zxV3C P.S. Please tell me what I should name the build!
  10. Hi guys, does anyone out there know of any sort of yellow led that i could use for a potential up coming yellow and black pc build? Thanks!
  11. I just got my Qnix QX2710 monitor and everything about it is great except i noticed this. I was wondering if anyone knows what this is and if so, is there any way to fix it. Also if there's any issue with this post that breaks code of conduct sorry this is my first post =P UPDATE: I have decided to contact the seller on eBay and ask for a replacement, hopefully Australian consumer law helps me here =D
  12. I have a custom built PC with Windows 7 Pro SP1 64bit, that has an ASUS Maximus VII Hero Motherboard (I suspect something with this). On my old PC, if I plugged in Ethernet, it would quickly detect the network and get me online. On my new one, Ethernet seems to be a bit random in working. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. It "does not" work because it will just give me the yellow warning sign and say that there is no Internet connection. Running a diagnosis always returns an "invalid IP address configuration" but I am hesitant to believe this based on these examples: I have a direct Ethernet connection to my router. If I plug in the cable before I boot up my PC, it usually works. If I plug in the cable afterwards, it usually won't work. I was at a friend's house, and I had brought a Cisco switch because he only had one connection in his room. I plugged in the connection to the switch, and then our PCs. His worked, mine did not. I tried a bunch of stuff to try and fix it, yet none worked. I ended up using Internet Sharing (WiFi -> Ethernet) on my MacBook Pro Mid-2012 Yosemite to get Internet, and it worked on the first go, no issues (I was using reboots to try and fix the issue). A few months ago, I had trouble with my home network Ethernet line (I was getting the yellow warning sign). After reading a lot of forums, I tried doing a static discharge by powering down, disconnecting the power cable, and pressing the power button, then starting up again. This solution worked, but confused me. Now, when I have problems, this solution seems to only work some of the time. Two days ago, I was again using my MacBook to tether because my main line was unavailable. It worked fine after 1 or 2 reboots. Last night, I tried to tether again, and nothing worked. I tried the static discharge, reboots, etc. Can someone please help me diagnose this?? I know I am using the latest BIOS and LAN drivers.
  13. Gigabyte: http://bit.ly/1uTRiSE NCIX: http://bit.ly/1mnMqot Amazon: Coming soon With an Intel Core i7 mobile processor, a variety of storage and memory options, and a GTX 880M, the Gigabyte P25X v2 will meet the needs of any gamer on the go.
  14. Any good motherboard with a yellow theme? Preferably 1150 socket and inside the price range of $200-$250. Thanks!
  15. I built this PC for a friend of mine. He wanted something quiet and flashy, but also something which will last him for a long time. I did my best to abide. Check out the pictures below to see the results. No sponsors, nothing fancy, just cash Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Windowed CPU: Intel Core i5 4670k Motherboard: MSI Z87 M-Power RAM: 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LP 1600mz cas 9 @1.35v (only one stick shown) Graphics: MSI GTX 680 Lightning CPU Cooling: Phanteks ph-tc14pe Boot Drive: Samsung 840 120gb Storage: 3TB Seagate Momentus 7200rpm Power Supply: (modified) OCZ ZT650w Additional: NZXT HUE and Corsair AF140 QE fan(s) I believe he also has a razer BW ultimate keyboard and a corsair M60 mouse. The parts all lined up The PSU was a little loud, so I installed a 140mm Cougar Vortex fan to silence it. It worked great! Now the PSU is practically inaudible. Just installed the CPU and wanted to check out my lazy custom cabling We're getting there. Just wanted to stop and take a look. Did you notice the Pci covers? I would have done the hard drive trays as well, but I thought it would be too much yellow Time to install the graphics card! He is so lucky. This 680 lightning is so nice THE FINISHED PRODUCT I hoped you guys liked it. Other than a few software problems, it was a blast to build. also, if you liked it, check out my personal rig. http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/13117-project-juiced-budget-modded-itx-build/#entry140069
  16. Ah, found some sweet pictures of the new lightning edition. (I think at computex they had it hiding under a box? I really don't remember but the new design looks amazing! I wonder how this is going to rival something like the HOF Galaxy 780 (that card alone in its name is awesome) Please nice feed back and discussion! And I ask, what would you like to see in the new lightning? Founded here on this facebook page:https://www.facebook.com/msiczech
  17. So I've been getting a little yellow triangle over my wifi and it doesn't fully connect. It will work most of the time but it will randomly turn off and won't connect unless I reboot the wifi. My parents claim to have no issues at all, but both my Pc and phone won't connect. I've been having issues since my father installed a time counter, but I got around with changing my Mac through the advanced properties of the wifi chip thanks
  18. Hello I have a problem with my samsung galaxy S5, The problem is when i turn it on (or wake it up) it screen flashes yellow and then goes black, stragely the screen still reacts to me touching it. But ofcourse, i cant do anything cause i cant see anything. Anyone has the same problem and got it fixed?
  19. I'm thinking on adding yellow or amber LEDs between the V cards to add some more color to the lighting. Originally I was thinking on adding a vinyl image of the fallout boy since I have 2 EVGA Fallout editions 970's in SLI in my case. I guess what I should be asking, will the yellow and red LED clash with the blue LEDs.
  20. If you aren't using f.lux then..... well, you might be looking into a very bright bluish tinted white monitor right now, and if it's night, it can delay your sleep! Yep, your screen, putting out bright white light, just like ANYTHING else that generates it's own light, will delay your sleep. So here's how I look at it: Most of us loving using a computer, and doing cool stuff with them. So, if you sleep well, you wake up refreshed, and you have great cool ideas. If you don't sleep as well, because you stared into your computer screen all night, well, you don't do quite as cool stuff. So, I think that sums it up, go download f.lux. You should get to a peachy orange page with f.lux written all over it!
  21. I am starting a new case mod that I am naming Cerulean, a mix between blue and green, which will be the primary color of this mod. I will also add some yellow highlights. Specs: Intel Xeon 2609 v3 ASRock X99 Extreme3 Motherboard 16gb HyperX Fury DDR4 (4x4gb) 240gb HyperX Savage SSD (Graphics Card TBC) Silverstone Raven 2 Case Sponsors: HyperX The Plan: Create a front window to showcase the graphics card. Make a power supply shroud. Paint the case blue with yellow highlights.
  22. I just wanna document my experience with building a watercooling setup on the "cheap". When I had researched parts and what to do I was fronted with one singular and crucial question; buy expensive, branded parts or get unknown branded parts. In the end I had chosen the latter choice (barrow fittings, unknown chinese pump and res, some weird tubing company) and ended up with a system that has served me well since the beginning of this year. the one thing I would not have skimped out on though are compression fittings (if hardline tube) because they have the best and most secure fit in my mind. Here's a pic of my build (first watercooled build btw)
  23. Hi! Do you know other black and yellow cpu coolers other than arctic 33 esports? I dont mind buying that one, but I want to know other options. I need black and yellow because it needs to match my z77 mpower and hd 7970 lightning gpus.
  24. As the title states I am looking to buy yellow cherry mx modifiers keycaps. I would only need the ones for a 60% keyboard but I can deal with the set having extra. If you can look for PBT double shot keycaps, thanks. Elite Keyboards has some but not all of the modifiers
  25. I was planning my loop and I couldn't figured how to drain efficiently. My reservoir is hidden, so I'm thinking of just added some clear tubing with a fill port on the end. I'm going to get the EK D5 X-RE​S Top 100 ​w/ D5 Vari​o Pump , so I'm wondering what fitting+port I'm going to need (Really confused about this.)
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