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I just bought an RGB fan, which needs a 4pin 12v RGB header, but my motherboard only have a 5pin 12v RGBW header "12vGRBW" and a 3pin 5v RGB header "VRG", can I use the first 4 pins on the 5pin 12v RGBW header to power my fan's RGB? If the answer for the question above is "yes"... I tried to plug it in, but the fan's plug/socket is too fat and it hits the 5th pin, so I am planning to buy an adapter. So far, I had found this. I will be using this to elevate the first 4 pins so that I could use the 12vRGB header from my motherboard. Is this okay? Fans: ID-Cooling XF-12025-RGB-Trio [Link here] Motherboard: Gigabyte X470 AORUS GAMING 5 WIFI (rev. 1.0) [Link here]

I have a maximus ix code and it has two 5 pin rgbw headers. Can i plug in my Cooler Masters ML240L 4 pin rgb cable into that 5 pin rgbw

VID_20200523_002129_01_01.mp4

So..... I started my new build about a week ago.m. Original plan was white and black theme with RGBW (true white led's). Well it turns out that no matter if it has real white leds or mixes the colors together that no white is ever the same and that also goes with same manufactures. Heck my motherboard has RGBW built into it but some of the led's on the board are not rgbw but a few are? I decided to keep white/black but go for RGB(W) as well. I am not a big RGB fan but I mean it beats 4 different colored white lights so I started the quest to get everything controlled through the motherboard and that is very very hard granted I already had a 1080 and a few other things already. In the process of trying to see how to possibly replace my LED's on my EVGA 1080 FTW I figured out that they were already wired for RGB with 12V of power just to be controlled by EVGA software, so those will be next when my connectors get here because I don't want to just clip off the ends of my expensive cards. But the SLI bridge is another story. Yes gigabyte, and Asus have RGB SLI bridges but I have EVGA cards and already have a bridge so I took my it apart and looked inside. RGBW okay time to mod.... I did look around a bit and am surprised that in searching for this I never found it. Here is a video of it in acton. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AlHHaEIcu9M9oKJp2 (Don't mind the 8700k with a stock intel cooler ) The opened SLI bridge with RGBW connector cut off (After an hour of searching digi-key I was unable to figure out what kind it was so time to solder. I am guessing its 30 AWG wire. Shaved the bridge so the tiny wires could pass through. Solder is done and add first layer of heatshrink. 2nd layer of heatshrink and added wire sleeving . 2 more layers of heatshrink to protect the solder joints since I only had 24AWG wire to solder to the 30AWG wires and a compete mod, very happy I did this. Next the videocards as they have RGB 12v and use 4 pin gpu mini fan header and they are on the way.

Hello, Here I will show you how I built my power supply shroud with beautiful RGBW lighting as seen in the pictures below. As I do not have a RGBW header on my motherboard i will control the LEDs using an Arduino Nano (instructions in the end). Amount of work: 2 hours (if you are fast). PARTS Acrylic glass (or similar). I used 4 mm or 0.157 inches thick. LED strip, 60 LEDs/meter. Bought 1 meter (3.3 feet) RGBW LED strip from eBay for $8.30. Note that RGB led strips are significantly cheaper than RGBW led strips and none addressable leds are cheaper than addressable ones. Double sided tape. Arduino Nano (optional), bought from eBay for $5.10. BUILDING THE SUPER AWESOME RGBW SHROUD Take a look at the pictures of my shroud before beginning. Picture your own finished shroud in your own case so that you get an idea of the placement and measurements of the shroud. I am using the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX Tempered Glass case. Step 1 - Measuring the shroud. Remove the power supply to get access to the gap or hole you want to cover. Measure the shroud a bit larger than the hole. The extra edges allow us to attach the shroud with double sided tape and potentially rough edges will also be hidden. Step 2 - Cutting the acrylic glass. Cut the acrylic with whatever saw you have at hand. If you do not have a saw do not worry. With the tip of a knife you can scrape a deep and straight groove into the acrylic. Then, break off the acrylic along the groove by bending it over the edge of a table (might require some force). Step 3 - Sanding the acrylic glass. Sand the side that will not be seen with rough sandpaper as we prefer diffusion properties rather than pretty looks, I used 120 grit. Give the acrylic a good sanding. You want to end up with sanding marks going in two or more different directions to ensure that the light gets properly diffused. I made horizontal and vertical sanding marks. The visible side of the acrylic shroud you want to sand with fine sandpaper, I used 400 grit. Sand only in the direction that is perpendicular to the direction to the light source (that is, parallell to the led strip). You can experiment with different patterns but these patterns will at least look good. Step 4 - Washing the acrylic glass. Wash off all the dust with soap and water. Step 5 - Installing the acrylic glass shroud. Attach the acrylic glass shroud to your case with small pieces of double sided tape. Step 6 - Measuring LED strip. Cut the LED strip a little longer than the hole you are covering with the acrylic shroud. This will ensure even lighting. Step 7 - LED strip connector. If your LED strip does not have the necessary connectors you need to solder them on. Step 8 - Testing the LED strip. Test the LED strip before installing it! Step 9 - Installing the LED strip. Install the LED strip so that the LEDs are hidden. This will ensure that you can not see bright spots where the LEDs are located. For example: If you install the shroud vertically at the bottom of the case (as I did) you want the LED strip at the top of the acrylic shroud shining downward as you will be looking at the shroud from slightly above. Also, you want to install the led strip slightly off the side of the shroud. This way the LEDs will light up the acrylic shroud from a little further distance and will help eliminate bright spots near the LEDs. DONE! Nice work! Enjoy your awesome RGBW or RGB shroud! PICTURES The installed and sanded acrylic shroud seen from the inside. The cross pattern i sanded is clearly visible from the inside. With RGBW leds the white is pure white. ***EXTRAS*** *HOW TO ARDUINO* The easiest way to rgb things is to use individually addressable LEDs and an Arduino. The led strips from eBay are actually very good. This way you do not need to connect any transistors to the LED strip for power management as you would need to do with non addressable LEDs. Connect the LED strip +5V (or +12V depending on your LED strip) to your power supplys +5V (or +12V). Connect the LED strip ground (GND) to you power supplys ground. Double check your connections! In one end of the LED strip there is a Din connection (Din = Data in). In the other end there is Dout or DO (Data out). Connect the Din to one of the digital pins on the Arduino (connect to pin D6 if you are a complete beginner). Connect Arduinos ground to the LED strip ground!!! Otherwise the led chip and the signal may have different ground potentials (voltage) and the signal may be misinterpreted by the LED chip. This will cause wrong and flickering colours. Open the Arduino IDE > Sketch > Include Library > Manage Libraries... > Search for "neopixel" > Install "Adafruit NeoPixel". Restart the Arduino IDE. File > Examples > Adafruit NeoPixel > RGBW strandtest. (If you are using RGB LEDs run some of the examples without RGBW). *DIFFERENT LED TYPES* There are two major different led types: "analog" and "digital". Digital led strips have three connectors: +voltage, ground and data. The positive voltage and ground are connected to the power supply and the data is connected to the led controller circuitry (in my case the Arduino). Each individual led on the strip is controlled by a small chip. The led controller sends a data signal to the small chip which then adjusts the colour of the led accordingly. The controller is able to send a signal to any specific chip on the led strip. Therefore these kind of leds are called individually addressable leds. Analog led strips have four connectors if they are RGB, five if they are RGBW. The connectors are: +voltage(red), +voltage(green), +voltage(blue), (+voltage(white)), ground. When current is passed through from +voltage(green) to ground all the green leds on the strip will light up. The same goes for the other colours. Because of this the current draw may be quite high and it would easily burn delicate circuits. Therefore you need to connect a high current transistor to each colours +voltage connector and control the transistors with the led controller (for example an Arduino).

What are some of the best options for smart lights currently available. I only need 2 or 3 lights ATM but I most likely will expand in the future. I'm not wanting to spend Hue/Lifex money. I'm in Australia, so if there available in Aus then that's just a bonus! Thanks

Hey everyone I have a system build that I am now moving it into the case that I want. I need help with deciding RGB magnetic strips. I can't decide between BitFenix or CableMod. Any suggestions? Advice? Also I have specs and future add-ons and upgrades down bellow. Thanks! Widowmaker Specs: AMD Threadripper 1950X Gigabyte X399 Aorus Gaming 7 G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200Mhz 16GBx2 Dual Channel EVGA GTX 1060 SSC 6GB Thermaltake Toughpower 850w Fully Modular PSU Elgato HD60 Pro Add-Ons/Upgrades: Move from DIYPC-480-BK to Gigabyte AC300W Case Add more RAM (eventually get to 128GB sticking with G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200Mhz) Upgrade to TWO 80/80ti series cards (1080/1080ti, 1180/1180ti, 2080/2080ti) Add in NVME m.2 2280 SSD (Samsung or WD) Remove Elgato HD60 Pro from Widowmaker move Elgato HD60 Pro into separate machine Remove content creation devices (mic, headset, Elgato Stream Deck, ect.) to separate machine Upgrade side panels to Tempered glass on AC300W Again any help would be greatly appreciated. Also included pictures of the Gigabyte AC300W case!

I have a Gigabyte X399 Aorus Gaming 7 motherboard and I am looking into RGB/RGBW strips. I also have the Gigabyte AC300W arriving this week. Any reasons why RGB/RGBW is better than RGBW/RGB? I am looking at these two kits. Also I do want them to be magnetic! BitFenix Magnetic RGB LED Strip 60cm/30 LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Magnetic-Strip-30cm-BFA-RGB-30MK15N-RP/dp/B01LX64AJE?th=1 Cablemod WideBeam Magnetic LEG Strip RGB 60cm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6QUR5Q/?coliid=I1RA035662VCLA&colid=2Z762BNNSBTTI&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Currently I am leaning towards the CableMod kit. Because I've seen more builds online featuring CableMod over BitFenix.

How can you connect a 4 pin RGB fan to a motherboard which only contains 5 pin rgbw pin headers. If I just ignore the W pin and plug it into the 12V+RGB will that work or will it mess up the lighting, considering the RGBW header is not in order (BRG or something like that)?

Hi, I'm from India. I'm building my new pc. Am kind of new to this. I need a RGBW strips, a magnetic one. My mobo is Aorus Gaming 3 z370 with gigabyte rgb fusion. I want a rgb fusion compatible strips. My mobo has enough led headers also with digital led support. Any suggestions and recommendations would help a lot. Thanks

Hi I'm building a new pc. I need suggestions for rgb stuff. My motherboard is aorus gaming 3 z370 with rgb fusion. Case 100r corsair. So what do i need in terms of RGB and RGBW strips. Plz help

So ive been thinking how i can change the colors of the lights on my instrument cluster from the stock white. So my idea was to build a flexible thin ribbon wire or pcb to add rgbw led to so i can add the same amount of lights in the same spot where the current white leds are.. as in build on and just lay it it over the current pcb. and find which wire powers the white leds and cut that. I know that sounds like a lot of work but thats kinda how my mind works. if anyone could point me in the right direction on how to even make a flexible pcb that would be awsome. So the photo below. The original Jetta cluster is white. what i did to get blue is use some Theatre light gles and cut them out for either side and reassembled it.