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1) RGB fans draw attention away from other parts. I'd rather have all parts equally illuminated than to have spinning light wheel fans, and then the rest of the build that looks boring in comparison. 2) It's distracting if you use your PC in a dim or dark room. And it might affect the calibration of your monitor. There's also an imbalance if there's light coming from a machine on one side of the desk, and not on the other. Granted, you could always turn it off, but it just seems like RGB exists for youtube and social media more than personal use. 3) If it's a large ATX, do I even want it on the desk? Putting it on the floor saves space. And from an ocd standpoint, it's imbalanced to have a large machine one one side of your desk and not on the other.

i installed signalrgb (thanks god finally i get rid of asus armory bug) and really happy with it but have small problem my keyboard is asus rog claymore 2 and when signalrgb software running my media key (volume control+another 4 MultiMedia key)on my keyboard not working at all! but when i close signalrgb its working again.is there any fix for this or i misconfig someting. (I POST ON THEIR FORUM FOR 4DAYS BUT I THINK FORUM ARE DEAD OR NOBODY CARE TO ANSWER SO I COME HERE TO FIND HELP AND SOLUTION)

My friend got his new computer but he cannot make the panel leds the same colors as the fans. The case is a Rise Mode Galaxy glass (not the audio one) and the fans are all Rise mode Smart RGB(6 fans in total). He got all fans and the case leds connected to the Rise mode fan hub but for some reason they dont light up the right colors. He has tried using AuraSync, iCue and other fan-controlling softwares and it always turn out the same, blue fans case green, green fans case blue, and it is always two colors switched. The frontal panel leds can also switch colors by pressing the reset button on the top of the case. What should he do to actually solve this problem?

Hello Everyone, I wanted to start this out with I found the fix. But it took me a couple weeks to diagnose and it was hard to track down so I wanted to make a post here to catalog the issue and the fix for anyone else experiencing the issues. FIX: mine was caused by multiple RGB software's being installed. Uninstall all of them. They are cancer. ISSUE: My system would BSOD with the error code: PFN LIST CORRUPT. At first it seemed random. After taking notes of when it happened, it was most likely to occur when waking up from sleep shortly after signing into windows. And sometimes after opening or closing a game. CONTEXT: The issue started occurring after installing a new 2TB Seagate M.2. I didn't think about it, but I made a lot of changes to my PC when adding in this SSD which made tracking the issue harder. When changing something about your PC, make sure to changes as little as possible so it's easier to track down the cause. My MOBO has x2 m.2 slots. One under the CPU (running off the CPU PCIE lanes) and one near the chipset (running off the chipset/south bridge PCIE lanes). My OS m.2 was in the chipset m.2 because it was easiest to get too originally, and the CPU m.2 was empty. I decided to swap this and put my new Seagate m.2 in the chipset m.2 slot for aesthetics because it has rgb on it.... After installing both in their new m.2 slots, I booted into the BIOS to check everything was good and I noticed XMP wasn't enabled.... Odd, so I enabled it to 3600MHz because months ago I bought new ram. Strange, I thought I enabled that but maybe not. Once in Windows, I initialized and formatted the new m.2 drive and everything was working great. The new m.2 has rgb so I downloaded open RGB to try and get all my RGB to sync together. Didn't like Open RGB so I downloaded Signal RGB. Didn't like that so I downloaded Corsair iCue since that was said to be support the m.2 rgb. Got iCue to sync with MSI mystic Lighting and uninstalled OpenRGB and SignalRGB. All was good. Then the BSOD started happening a couple days later. TROUBLESHOOTING: Thinking there is an issue with the m.2 (since it's the "only thing" I changed) I tried updating my BIOS, Chipset drivers, lan and audio drivers, windows etc. Everything I could find to update, I did. Issues persisted. Tried to see if there was a firmware update on the SSD, none available. Event logs only showed the system would boot up after an unexpected shutdown. So the system was hard crashing without being able to dump a log. Could be a hardware fault but I continued with software fixes. Looked more into the BSOD error and found that it was said to be memory error related. Tried reseating my RAM and took out the new 2TB seagate m.2 SSD. Same BSOD issues. Tried lowering my XMP profile lower and lower. Same issue. I was eventually at stock 2133Mhz memory speeds and the issue continued. I finally made the connection that I also installed a bunch of RGB software at the same time of the change weeks ago. I uninstalled all that cancerous garbage (the fact there isn't a good open source solution sucks). Didn't have a BSOD for about a week. Started to slowly increase my memory speeds back up to 3600Mhz over the course of the next week. It's been solid since uninstalling the RGB software. Looks like that was the cause. I have installed the m.2 back in my system and it's been happy since. Sucks I can't sync my rgb anymore without the risk of BSODs... Event logs: no errors were logged. Only bootup events after "unexpected improper shutdowns" System AMD 5800X3D Be quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 MSI B550 Gaming Plus Corsair Vengeance RS RGB memory Nvidia Gigabye Eagle 3080 10GB Sabrient Rocket Q 1TB m.2 (OS) 2TB Crucial sata SSD 8TB WD Red Pro HDD 4TB Seagate Barracuda HDD 2TB Seagate Star Wars Lightsaber m.2 EVGA 80+ Gold 850w PSU Fractal Meshify C 2

I recently installed an Ml240l RGB v2 into my pc. I noticed my motherboard only has 3-pin RGB headers, and the fans require a 4-pin RGB header; the only other way to connect the RGB is through Molex which my PSU does not have. Is it safe to use one of these cables to turn a SATA cable into a Molex connecter because I heard from some people they are a fire hazard? https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-LP4SATAFM12-12-Inch-Molex-Adapter/dp/B00GK8SYCW/ref=sr_1_14?crid=383Z72EZZHG8B&keywords=sata+to+molex&qid=1687551745&sprefix=saata+to+molex%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-14 (this is the cable I'm looking at btw)

hey guys i have a Asus tub z390 mobo link below i recently upgraded to a Peerless assassin 120 Argb second link below. so the problem is my rgb header on the mobo has 4 pins and the argb on the peerless assassin address leads has the 3 pin with the space between. is there a adapter i can use to make this work with the 4pin rbg headers on the mother board? https://www.newegg.com/asus-tuf-z390-plus-gaming/p/N82E16813119153?Item=N82E16813119153 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YT5BQD9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Thanks for any help

Hi all have a question. want to get all my lights to work with iCUE. I have a corsair h150i LCD, corsair vengeance ram (4 sticks), 6 extra corsair ML120 fans, lian li 24 pin strimmer v2, lian li Lancool 2 led strip, corsair mk2 k70 keyboard, SteelSeries arctics 9 with gamedac, 2 SteelSeries QCK PRISM CLOTH. i have one of these https://www.microcenter.com/product/631735/micro-connectors-11-port-argb-splitter-hub-for-fan-and-light where i plug in everything that's not corsair. If I get one of these https://piratedog.tech/collections/rgb-adapters/products/corsair-rgb-fan-to-aura-mystic-light-motherboard-a-rgb-adapter annd use my Lighting Node Core I got from my old corsair sp120 fans will it work for all the lights to match?

How is the performance and noise level on the FC120s compared to other rgb fans, because I plan to get them to match the fans on the LS720 aio.

Hey all, Bought a new Corsair H100i RGB Platinum AIO cooler on Amazon the other day and installed it today. Was having a few problems with high very fan speed but managed to rectify it. Read the log of events below if you're interested or encountering similar problems. Plugged it in as per instruction manual. Both fans' power and RGB into the splitters coming out of the Pump, and the USB going to a USB header on the motherboard. Turned on the PC, all was fine until desktop, when both fans ramped right up to 100% and wouldn't go down. In Ryzen Master, CPU was chilly at about 22 degrees. Opened Corsair's iCUE software (I also have a Strafe Keyboard and Void Headset) and on all of the fan control settings, even quiet, it was super noisy, and the RGB was just not sticking to the setting I wanted either. WILD GOOSE CHASE TIME (DO NOT FOLLOW THESE STEPS) Found out by unplugging individual fans from the splitter that the one marked '1' was by far the highest RPM, so got a splitter out and tried to run both off of the non marked plug. Things were okay but not quiet at all, maybe at 1600RPM instead of the 2000+RPM i had from Plug '1'. Messed around for ages with fan curves trying to get it as silent as possible, but it still sounded like a vacuum cleaner even at the quietest I got it. Plugged in the both fans into 1 and unmarked again as per instructions and messed around with the ASUS QFan control in the UEFI. Didn't solve anything. At this point I was so upset with it and thought about sending it back and putting my old CoolerMaster pump-noise-a-tronic 3000 back on. At my wits end, disabled iCUE from Startup Programs. Restarted my PC and it was running really quiet, started iCUE and boom it comes in 100% again. Problem is with iCUE then. Went back into iCUE and was looking through the settings for ages trying to set pump to Extreme, but fans to minimum RPM to try and offset the noise. Tried reinstalling iCUE, and still nothing. And so, the final thing I could think of trying.... THE FIX (DO FOLLOW THIS STEP!): Checked the Firmware in Settings in iCUE. iCUE told me that the firmware was up to date. Then spotted that I could force a firmware update, what is there to lose right? Everything was fixed, just like that. Fans are now running on 500RPM or lower 90% of the time and cooling performance is great. So basically, even if it tells you the firmware is up to date, never trust it and update it yourself. TLDR: Update your firmware in iCUE if you have problems with fans running 100% Thanks for reading Rhys

Currently running six SL Infinity fans and three AL120 V2 fans. The AL V2s came in a 3 pack, as did one set of SL INF, and three SL INF were purchased individually. I have all six SL INF fans running on the SL INF controller and all three AL V2 fans on the AL V2 controller. "MB sync" doesn't seem to work. I have the 4-pin PWM cables plugged into CPU and chassis fan headers, and software like FanControl can read the fan speeds reported by the control hubs, but not change the speeds at all, with or without L-Connect 3 running. Hub firmware for both INF and AL V2 hubs seem to be up to date, at least according to the L-Connect 3 software, and fan controllers are set to PWM in BIOS. Did I do something wrong with the wiring, or is this function just straight up broken? If I wanted to bypass the L-Connect 3 software entirely and just go straight to MB fan and ARGB headers, could I use the 4-pin adapters that came with the SL INF single packs with the AL V2s? Are the connectors compatible? They appear to be slot-compatible, but if the internal connections are different I don't want to risk accidentally frying something. If "MB Sync" won't work and the motherboard adapters for the SL INF won't work with the AL V2s, should I just get a third set of SL INF fans?

Budget: usd $1500. Country: Nicaragua (a very very hot and humid country in central america). Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: work related: VS code, Remote Desktop connection, many tabs open in chrome. For gaming: Valorant, LoL, Fall Guys. Other details: I'm coming from a Dell G3 laptop with an i5 8gen, 8GB of RAM and a Geforce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB. I already have peripherals and a Monitor (27' 144Hz 1440p). I might buy another monitor at a later date. I just want to play at 1440p at 100+ fps refreshing at 120Hz minimum. Aesthetics and RGB are very important. Finally I'll leave the build I have put together on pcpartpicker. The idea is to build this pc in the following 3 months. Appreciate the help in advance.

Corssair makes some nice stuff, but dont expect to be able to control the RGB. The lastest version of iCue will not open at all. Iv'e tried everything and they don't offer previous versions either. And if you can get it to work (if you didn't update) iCue chews up your memory, best to save settings to hardware and close it, disable auto start up. Also Corsair RGB does not function with any other third party software like many other brands do. Like MSI Mystic Light can run my GSkill RAM and Deepcool AIO on my other PC So now I have this brand new PC with Rainbow RAM, if I knew this I would have got there non- RGB version or a different brand. If anyone has a solution, please advise. Or Im painting the RAM black

Just installed a white rog strix lc 240 cooler, however the leds on the fans which are attached to the radiator do not light up properly. They are connected to the header connector which I plugged into the rgb header. I get only 1 green led on both fans. I have tried both RGB headers on my board (Prime X570 Pro) and also the 3 pin slot with one individual fan and get the same result. RGB Header 1 however gives no illumination for whatever reason. I have also uninstalled all aura software using ccleaner and done a reinstall but it had no benefit. Any one have any idea on what I should do to get these working properly?

So I updated my motherboard drivers on my asus rog motherboard through armoury crate as I thought it might solve a downloading issue I had. However, it just created a new one. Before I updated the drivers I had set the motherboard rgb to turn off when I turn off my pc in bios. Now, everytime I shut off my pc those bios settings gets overwritten or something so the rgb is still on. Everytime I shut it off I have to enter bios where it will give the the message "Do you want to apply previous values?" After clicking yes it will just restore my settings and I can quit. However next time I use my pc, all those settings are gone again and I have to repeat the procedure. Even wierder, the rgb doesen't light up when my pc is on, but it kicks in to action the second I turn off my pc. The bios setting I am talking about is under Advanced>APM configuration>ErP ready set to s5. I use s5 as I still want power to my usb ports when my pc is off. I appreciate any help

I picked up an H100X RGB Elite and I'm having some issues connecting the 3 pin RGB connection to my Gigabyte B550 UD AC's D_RGB2 connector. The cable doesn't seem to fit over the pins (holes not big enough?). I'm seeing conflicting info online about proprietary connectors etc. However, the manual seems to indicate the cable should connect: Can anyone clarify what's required to connect this or am I just a n00b and doing something wrong. Thx!

Hello, I need your opinion from the owners of Lian Li Lancool 216 RGB case. Εspecially from those who bought in addition the RGB controller and the front dust filter. Is it worth giving an extra 15$ for the RGB controller and another 15$ for the dust filter? I will use the Asus Prime B660M-A D4 motherboard on this case. I will be able to connect all the fans to the pre-installed hub and then the hub to the fan port and RGB header of the motherboard ? then I will be able to handle the RGB fans using the AURA software ? In case I want to use Lian Li RGB software (Li-Connect 3), will I be able to use it without the RGB controller ? Also, does the front dust filter affect the airflow performance? What is the exact model of the two front rgb fans? I want the same but in 140mm and 120mm.

I have a gigabyte z790 ud .I have a deep cool castle 240ex ARGB. They have given me 3 hole insert for the leds but my motherboard only has 4 pin connectors. What do I do?

Hi! So, following some greatly appreciated help here on the forum with putting together the shopping list, as well as a lot of help from the PCMR Discord server during the arduous 9 hours of building, I can finally show off the finished product (pending peripherals upgrade). Call it a mini-build log if you will. Huge thanks to everyone who helped me out along the way! You can check out the full spec list for the build here: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/mHp7mr The finished build, in case you don't care about the process leading up to this. I'm going to swap out the right side monitor to fix the change in height between the two (which also gets me more than 60hz refresh rate) Parts arrived and prepped for assembly Case mostly prepped - let the build begin! I assembled motherboard, CPU, RAM, and CPU cooler before putting that into the case. I quickly realized the second fan on the Noctua NH-D15 cooler interferes with the RAM, and moving it ever so slightly interferes with the glass side panel on the case. The best solution I came up with was to run the CPU cooler with only the middle fan installed. GPU installed - but it's sagging. Damn these new heavy cards! With great effort, I installed a GPU brace support The first bootup And again, I present to you the final result: I haven't had time to test many games yet, but this thing absolutely handles Star Citizen as well as I'd hoped (200+ fps in space, 40-80fps in heavy cities, in v3.19.0 PTU. Sitting around 4.8ghz on the CPU with mostly 60c degrees). I also ran it through 3D Mark Time Spy for some context, you can see the results here: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/38380467

Hi, I recently just fixed my computer after it broke, I had to RMA a few parts but after doing all this, the lights on my GPU don't seem to work. Before it broke, the lights worked and now none of the lights work. Every other part of the GPU works, for example, the fans spin and it outputs video, its just the lights don't work. Ive just fixed my computer so im not looking to RMA it right now, just want to know if its a common issue and if there's a easy way to fix it. Thanks.

I am having a problem with thermal throttling on my Palit Gamrock RTX 3070, last time I changed my thermal paste I saw the thermal pads are crumbling. But I didn't pay much attention to them. Now the issue is this my GPU thermal throttle on the temp limit way before reaching the actual limit (Games stutter also). Maybe the memory modules are overheating? See attached pictures. If this is really a thermal pad issue, which is probably nonexistent now. Should I buy 2mm pads to replace all of them? Another problem is that my RGB strip is malfunctioning, halfway through one strip on one side. Video of my Card RGB Malfunctioning. As you can see half of it is of the same color, and it sometimes turns completely off. Which one should I buy to replace it? I can't find anything on it on the Internet, there are RGB, RGW, different pins, etc. Any help with any of the issues is appreciated. I am lost, good gelid thermal pads are expensive here I don't want to waste money.

I have this hub for the RGB UpHere fans but I lost the remote it came with. I read somewhere that the older hubs had a reset button for cycling the lighting modes manually and I am wondering if there are two points I can jump on this hub to do the same thing. If there is then I would like to add a button to cycle the modes. Attached is a picture from an older thread of the same fan hub I have now that someone else took. I couldn't take a pic of my hub but this one is identical. You can tell they were testing out a modification as well. Although the mod they are performing is different entirely. I have tried using other remotes for other RGB fans and lights to see if they will work but have had no luck. This is the PCB model: XQ-HCRF-10 There is more to the PCB model number but I had the most luck finding images of the PCB using this search entry. Here is a post referring to an older UpHere hub having a reset button:

Hi guys, Sad day as my current keyboard has started to die. I Currently have a Cougar Ultimus RGB with Cougar Red Linear Switches that i purchased in 2019 and Left Shift, z and x keys have stopped working. If i could i would be buying another ultimus to replace but alas, it has been discontinued. So what i am looking for is a replacement recommendation. Preference is a full size board since i regularly utilised the numpad in a few simulators. Defs want RGB, (Does anyone know if there are any keyboards that have a similar effect to the Vanish effect on this keyboard (Keys are different colours and when pressed they turn off and change colour on release)) Still prefer Linear Switchs over Tactile/Clicky Budget is roughly $150AUD (willing to go a bit higher for a good quality keyboard) I thank all in advance.

Hey , So is anyone else having a bad time with Gigabyte software . or is it just me ? RGB fusion worked for a few months on my new pc , but now doesn't . same with app center . They all just don't launch anymore (tried removing and re downloading all that stuff ) Any ideas? Thanks in advance

Hi, I was recently building a pc for my girlfriend everything was going well up to the rgb fans on her fractal design pop mini air i found that the fans use a 5v 3-pin interface whereas her motherboard only has 12v 4 pin headers making it impossible to plug them in and have her rgb working. Is there a way to fix this and allow her rgb fans to work? Thanks for all your help.

maybe ltt could make an rgb light bar because there are so much of them on a lot of sites but a lot of them are bad because all of them are made in china and not very quality