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Hey everyone i am currently running a R7 5800x and a 4070ti on a 750w thermal take gf a3. I know i am on the lower end for this build, however im stuck if i go with a 1050w thermal take gf a3 or i just bump it up to the corsair rm850? everytime i run PBO i get coil whine so i set everything to stock for now figured this is a psu issue being on the low end.
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Hi, guys I thought I should probably ask someone with more experience than me so... (Some backstory) I bought a HP Pavilion 590-p0044 on eBay for about $80 and I'm doing some upgrades to it to make it better. It came with a ~180w PSU that's rated 80plus Gold (If I remember correctly) and I wanted to upgrade it to a 400-500w PSU as I plan on buying a Graphics Card in the near future and I don't think the current PSU is going to be able to handle it. (btw I plan on getting an AMD Radeon RX 580 which uses ~185w so I'm defiantly going to need an upgrade). I just wanted to know if I could use any off the shelf PSU or if I can only use the upgrades at HP/eBay sells (Parts: {400w PSU[L04618-800] $70-80} and 500w {PSU[L05757-800] $65-150}). My PC's specifications are... AMD Ryzen 5 2400G w/ Radeon Vega 11 Graphics 8GB DDR4 Ram (I have an extra stick of 8GB DDR4 but it's in another PC at the moment) 500GB SATA SSD 2TB SATA HDD @ 10KRPM Windows 11 Home Images Below are closely similar to the PC I own.
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Hi everyone, I am thinking what Power Supply will be better for my 13600KF + RX 7900 XTX build. Choosing between two options: MSI A1000G or Be Quiet! Pure Power 12M. What can you suggest? Thanks a lot!
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I've recently acquired components for a system build, including an AMD Ryzen 5 3600 A320m motherboard, AMD Radeon RX 5500 XT GPU, 16GB DDR4 3200MHz RAM storage comprising a 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD. The case is a DK353 with 3x ARGB fans, I've opted for a Corsair VS 650 PSU (The components are on its way and i currently dont know my vs650 comes with orange or silver lablel... Whats the difference between both??) I'm seeking professional opinions on whether this power supply will suffice for these components, or if its use poses a risk. Your insights on this matter would be greatly valued.
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The power supply I got based on pc part picker should have worked, but it only had 1 motherboard power cable and only the y cable version of the pcie power which was not good enough to run the system. The power supply has to fit in the fractal pop xl air which has a bit of a tight fit. It also needs to have power cables that can power both a 3070ti and an ASUS ROG STRIX B650-A GAMING WIFI 6E. I'm having a hard time finding a power supply that is 850watts, small enough to fit the case and has the correct power cables. Any help is much appreciated!
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I have a system with an Rtx 3080 and a Ryzen 9 3900x (I am aware of the bottleneck I just upgraded gpu) and was planning on getting a ryzen 7 5800x3d on Christmas for myself, and was wondering if I needed to upgrade my power supply. I just want to save as much money as possible, and I don't want to buy a 150$ psu for no reason. Help!
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I have a few options. Corsair CX650, EVGA 600GD, NZXT C650 Bronze, Seasonic B12 BC-650 Bronze, or G12 GC-650 Gold They all cost basically the same at $75 (converted to USD), except the G12 at $90. What PSU should I choose? Or is it worth buying the G12? Also, I found a used EVGA 650 GQ for $72. I messaged the seller, and they said they had it for 1 year, tested it, but never used it as it was used in a prebuild for sale. They sent me an S/N code, and it was made in 2021. Is it worth buying the used PSU? Or get the G12? If not, which one should I get? Also I am from the Czech Republic. Thanks for the help.
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Hello! I bought a prebuilt pc from sharkgaming. With a ryzen 7800x3d cpu and a XFX Speedster QICK 319 Radeon™ RX 7800 XT 16GB. Ive already ordered the pc but im worried the 650W powersupply that came with the system isnt powerful enough to run my pc or/if my components could get damaged if i use it the powersupply is a SHARK GAMING BLOODPUMP 650W ATX 3.0 BRONZE ive added some images aswell of the specs of the powersupply if that would help out. the images have some words in danish, im not danish myself but couldnt find any other picture with the specs. Im sorry! should i try to look to replace it before i even boot the pc or should it be fine as it is????
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Hello everyone, I´m new on the community and i hope you can help me with this weird issue on my PC when booting up. (In advance, I want to apologize for my poor english, I am from Latin America and English is not my strong suit. I´ll try to be clear as possible. My PC specs: AMD Ryzen 5 5600g MSI B550 Tomahawk motherboard 16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengance Pro (2x8GB working in Dual Channel at 3200MHz) Samsung NVME SSD 980 500GB PSU: MSI A750GF 80gold The issue: One in every 20 or 30 times, my computer turns off just before starting Windows (It doesn't show the Windows logo before turning off, it's always before and after the Motherboard logo) The times it does start (The other 20 or 30 times), it works perfectly and can stay on for the amount of time you want and even under heavy load (Gaming). Do you guys have any idea of what could be the issue? Should i be scared of this damaging my PC at the long run? I assembled the PC part by part about 4 months ago but at this day, i´m still cluless about this isssue.
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My current specs: core i5-8400 h310m s2h 2.0 GTX 1650 oc VENTUS XS (dual fan) Ram: 8 x 2 DDR4-2400 Ram Kingston (kvr24n17s8/8) Storage[sata SSD]: 256 GB ||| [HDD]: 1 TB Western digital green PSU: ELITE POWER 400W (RS-400-PSAR-J3, RS-400-PSAP-J3) -------- want to upgrade to RTX 2060 6GB OR RTX 2060 super 8GB
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Not directly PC related but I have been trying to use a standard ATX powersupply to power a bunch of neopixels. It is a Thermaltake XP550 NP (absoloutley ancient but 5v rail says it can handle 30A). I shoultn't ever be drawing more than 22A, but I have noticed my LEDs are only getting sometimes around 3.5V, and if I turn them up all the way the PSU restarts and lights reboot. The powersupply is definatly rated for the 30A draw. Could it be related to having a number of 5V rails only running at a fraction of that current? If so can I just paralell them? I don't beleive it does since it only shows one 5v current on the sticker, but I could well be wrong. I understand that this PSU is really old so could be defective, but if possible I would like to use it since I have it.
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Just asking to make sure. I assume it’s okay if I have a cooler master 650W gold 80+ psu and pcpartpicker says my pc’s estimated wattage is 519W (with absolutely every components). (I did the math myself with all components wattage and it came out to about 540W max) Just trying to see if i can run all the fans I want in my new case setup. I am not wanting buy another psu since I recently purchased the one I have.
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My Seasonic PSU came with the "paperclip" dongle, but it shorts the pins 3 and 4, not 4 and 5 like many other websites suggest when searching for "How to turn on a PSU without a motherboard?". Am I safe to use this paperclip adapter with every psu since 24pin is the same each time, or this is only for Seasonic? Thank you for the answers!
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UPDATE: Completely forgot my PCIE is daisy chained from the factory. since my other 6+2 is tucked away under the entrance point for cables to reach card. I have 2 x 6 + 2 PCIE cables. So I'm good to go & do not need to do the following 1. burn my house down with a splitter 2. buy a new power supply. Image provided below from official corsair website. Hi there. I'm going to be upgrading from a gtx 1070 to a RX 6700 XT. My power supply only includes 1 x 8 pin PCIE connector. Power supply: Corsair CV650 80+ Bronze The RX 6700 XT I will be purchasing houses a total of 1 x 8 pin & 1 x 6 pin Will it be safe to use a high quality splitter to power 6700 XT? Any help / info would be great. Cheers
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Title pretty much, its a Corsair CX550F RGB, 80 PLUS Bronze (White). 1 and 1/2 years old. As expected only happens when the PSU is underload so its not a fan issue. Its been happening for 3 days now since I'll have to wait the replacement PSU for about 2 weeks. Should I still use it? What if the noise incrementally becomes louder if such happens? PSU CX550F Coil Whine 2.mp4
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I bought stuff for a new PC, and I would really appreciate if someone just pointed out where I'm supposed to plug the cables into my PSU? There's an image of the PSU and from pcpartpicker showing the things I'd need to plug in. But I'm quite confused. If someone were to just point out where to plug the things in I'd really appreciate it. thanks.
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I have been making a pc recently and I bought a 500w EVGA W1 power supply to use. It had solid reviews on the store page. However. After some changes in my plans I may want to buy a rx 590 to use in my system (I was orignaly going to use an old 1060 i had but a 590 looks better). Seeing as this will reach up to 500 watts of power combined with my i3-12100f I'm not sure if it will work anymore. I can still return it on amazon, but I don't even know of any suitable replacements that won't bankrupt me. I then became more concerned after I saw people saying it might fry my components. I know this topic is all over the place but I just need some help figuring it out. tldr: Will my 500w EVGA W1 blow up? If not will it even handle my i3-12100f and rx 590?
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So, my new PC is having a quite strange problem. Specs: Case: Cooler Master NR200P Motherboard: ASRock Z790 PG-ITX/TB4 CPU: Intel Core i5-13600k RAM: Kingston Fury Renegade DDR5 32GB 6000MHz CL32 GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2TB M2, Kingston FURY Renegade 2TB M2 I can use it for hours, play with it the entire day without problems, voltages and wattages are perfect in stress tests. But: It is the second time that when I'm away with Windows locked, when I come back I find the PC without power and with a noise with a very high peach coming from the power supply. If I try to turn on the PC, the motherboard tells me that there is a problem with the VGA and, also, the VGA leds are off. If I remove the power by using the switch on the power supply, the noise goes away, and then, if I turn on the PC it works again without problems. I have noticed that when Windows is locked, the PC enters a "low energy" state and the keyboard, mouse and video card LEDs turn off; but this mode doesn't seem to work very well as the leds go off and on continuously (at intervals of several seconds). Could this be the cause of the problem? Or should I suspect that the power supply is faulty? I would like to avoid replacing it unnecessarily. The problem seems to be present only when I'm away from the computer and/or I'm not using it. Windows power settings are on performance mode and then the PC should not go into a sleep or suspended state, it should only shut down the display. Thank you. UPDATE: By checking the Windows event viewer, I found this log: "The Kernel Power Manager Has Initiated a Shutdown Transition. Reason: Application API" ID: 109 EventData ShutdownActionType 4 ShutdownEventCode 0 ShutdownReason 4 The event right before, is this: "User-mode process attempted to change the system state by calling SetSuspendState or SetSystemPowerState APIs." ID: 187 EventData ApiCallerNameLength 0 ApiCallerName SystemAction 4 LightestSystemState 1 I'm also attaching the OCCT chart of the monitoring of a 2.5 hours gameplay session (on Atomic Heart).
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Hi All, I'm looking to upgrade to either a 30 series or 40 series card. All the ones i'm looking at have 3 connectors to the GPU. My power supply EVGA SuperNOVA 850 GM only has 2 VGA connectors listed. And I also don't have any extra 8 pin connectors in my box. I was wondering if this PSU is able to work with 3 connector cards, and how i would get the additional cable if possible. Thank you in advanced!
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I recently got a cheap PC which I'm using as a budget gaming PC, everything is going great so far, except for the fan that is located in the power supply, the one it has is making a loud bearing noise and I disassembled it to add some lubricant to it but it is still making noise. I ordered a new fan from Noctua which has the same specs as the one on the power supply but the only problem is the connector, both fans have a 4 pin connector but the one on the PSU is like a CRJ Micro 4 pin connector, totally smaller than the one on the new fan and the new one doesn't fit... I was wondering if it'd be ok to just cut the old fan connector and solder it to the new fan? have you guys done this before? will it be ok? Thank you
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Like that title says is a pc psu grounded if the neutral is the only ground, bc nearly or already a month ago I had a eletrician go to see if the house was properly grounded bc of multiple incident's where I had gotten wierd electrical behavior, such as when I used to touch any of my pc cases or anything metallic when they were plugged in I would have a weird and painful sensation like a buzz or tingle. so after those they told me that the houses ground plane that was ment to be separated from neutral was connected to neutral instead of being separated, they disconnected the ground plane and added a ground spike that now connects to neutral, and ever since I have had no incident's.
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So, I bought a new PC and it's behaviour is weird. The first time I turned it on, it needed 2 tries to actually start. But I didn't think nothing of it. And all the next times I turned it on, the lights started glowing for half a second then it turned off and turned on again, repeatedly for like ten minutes until it finally turned on. Now I thought that it doesn't receive enough Power to actually start, but it was a prebuild and I bought it 2 days ago so either it was already broken? Or idk. I looked at the components, everything looks fine but it just needs so long to start. Does anyone know a fix, which doesn't require me to really work at the components or that I don't have to replace anything. Or should I just send the pc back and ask for a refund or for a replacement?
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my pc spec i7-7700 msi rx 580 armor oc 8gb psu corsair cv 650w bronze 80 plus UPS - powerpro 1250va one of my friend suggested me to change psu to overcome this problem ,then i changed old evga 700w 80 plus to new corsair cv 650w bronze 80 plus , last night when i was gaming , the pc restarts with the power outage and the ups vibrated like it can't handle my pc wattage. Do i need to upgrade my ups to 1550va/900w ? please someone help me
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