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My biggest fear with an AIO is that the punmp will fail and I won't know it till the CPU starts to thermal throttle heavily. By the are the mounting backets for the intel 1700 socket the same or does each cooler have it own type?
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Budget (including currency): £1500-200 Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, Small amounts of rendering, coding and video producing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): i7 12700KF, 3060 12gb, 750w PSU Hi! Apologies for needing to ask this question as I can't find a very good explanation to my situation. I'm on the final stages of building my PC but I'm having a bit of trouble. I can't see whether I want Air Cooling or an AIO, AIOs scare me because they seem complicated and I want nothing less than water all in my PC, I do not know reliability or if I'll have to perform maintenance on them. Air cooling seems simple but I cant find a good affordable two fan LG1700 44m ram clearance cooler. Some suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
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Hey everyone! I hope it's the right place to make the topic, sorry if it's not. I'm about to buy a used RTX 3090 Aorus Xtreme Waterforce from ebay, the seller said it's been used for mining for a year around, still in a great condition, haven't been tempered with ( no repasting or repadding ) warranty sticker still intact. But i have noticed and asked for more pictures because i have seen some rainbow marks on the PCI-e interface, I was looking for any similar topics around for hours, could not find anything like this. I have attached 2 pictures, should i be concerned it's fried or anything like that? Many thanks in advance!
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- aorus xtreme
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Hello! I'm currently looking for a replacement AIO for my main rig (i7-9700k) and an air cooler for my backup setup (i7-4770k). Recently, my Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 stopped working, the pump was making rattling noises and I had to move the case around to get it to start. It's quite dissapointing that it failed after just two years, particularly because this is the first time I've experienced an AIO cooler dying before the 5-year mark. I've started the RMA process (I believe the new 6-year warranty is retroactive) but they haven't responded yet (it's been 4 days) and I can't wait two months for it to finish since I use that PC for heavy workloads. Anyway, after checking the CPU Cooler Tier List, I found the following models available at local stores: AIO Tier 1: Deepcool Infinity LT520 240 - $127.06 Deepcool LS520 240 ARGB - $142.88 AIO Tier 2: Cougar Aqua 280 ARGB - $83.83 EVGA CLC 240 RGB - $113.40 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 - $124.40 Lian Li Galahad 240 Black ARGB - $129.71 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - $143.86 Air Tier 2: DeepCool Assassin III - $119.07 Air Tier 3: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black - $155.97 I have read only positive reviews about the DeepCool LT520, so I'm considering it. However, the prices of the Cougar Aqua 280 and EVGA CLC 240 have caught my eye. Since there's a possibility of having a spare Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240, I'm interested in trying something different, like the Lian Li Galahad 240. As for my backup PC, I have heard that Noctua is releasing an update this year, so I am leaning towards the DeepCool Assassin III. Are there any important details about these models that I should know, such as pump quality or warranty information? What would you recommend? Thank you in advance!
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I've been trying to find an aio which is fairly quiet and has a good cooling performance from a reliable company, the max i would be willing to spend is around £160, i only need a 240mm one and would like one with an ldc screen (not a definate requirtement) or good looking rgb. Looks are important so I'm not going with arctic's aios since i dont like the look of them. Has anyone got any suggestions? Any help is appreciated
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I'm trying to use the A-RGB in my Arctic Liquid Freezer II AIO 280mm (latest revision), but my motherboard (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max) doesn't have any A-RGB headers. I bought this A-RGB controller: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H241TFT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and tried connecting the AIO 3-pin female connector to the controller's male 3-pin connector, and one of the fans lit up but not the other. So I hooked up a micro-USB cable to the controller and to my PC, installed the A-RGB Small Controller firmware (https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/argb-led-small-controller/) and followed the steps (including connecting the micro-USB cable; and the app said that the firmware was updated successfully), and installed MasterPlus (https://landing.coolermaster.com/faq/install-the-cooler-master-software-in-windows/), and restarted my computer. I also have SignalRGB installed for other RGB components and peripherals, and made sure to completely turn it off so that I would be able to open MasterPlus. However, only one of the fans light up still. Does anyone else have a similar setup as I do and has been able to use the A-RGB in both fans successfully? Thanks.
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I did a routine dust clean and replaced the thermal paste of my Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO, mounted to the middle-top of my case (the waterblock below the tubing entrance on the radiator, the CPU to the left of the radiator aka rear of the case). The pump/waterblock was previously plugged in to the CPU_fan header and the fans in the usual SYS_fan headers. After the clean I booted the PC and was met with temps going up to 80+ celsius purely on boot and noticed that there was no water being moved around in the tubes, no sounds or vibrations. I tried plugging the waterblock/pump header into SYS_fan headers as well as removing all the fans from any headers and running the waterblock from the CPU header alone but nothing changed. I checked the waterblock speed in the BIOS and the CPU_header was being registered at around 2600rpm set to Normal on my Gigabyte b85-HD3 rev 2.1. It did jump from 2600 to 0 a few times in a split second, but I figured it might just be the BIOS catching up to me changing the fan speeds to try and fix it. The Cooler Master logo on the waterblock is lit up and the fans are of course spinning from the SYS_fan headers. It seems to be registering and powered on. I reset the CMOS as well as updated the BIOS to the latest version. I removed the waterblock and reapplied the thermal paste, and also removed the radiator and rotated it a bunch along with the computer which is now sitting on it's rear (on account of the possibility of air bubbles). I also plugged a normal fan into the CPU_fan header and it worked fine, including changing the speed in the BIOS. I managed to bring the temps down to around 30-40 by reapplying the thermal paste and tightening the waterblock better, but the temps jump quickly to around 60 when any activity occurs. I've seen mentions of possible air bubbles in the (now somewhat older) AIO but the water is not being moved around whatsoever when booting or when the PC is running. There were some very short burbles a couple times but the water is not being moved at all it seems. I'll leave it overnight to maybe josh the bubbles a little while it is on it's back, if any are present. Otherwise I don't really know what could be causing this, unless a pump can die and still be registered as working? Thank you in advance for any help! Specs: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 64-bit Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. B85-HD3
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- aio
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A bit of context for you I really like Noctua coolers from the performance I I seen for them and the Deep Cool LS720 seems pretty promising for an AIO. The Buget of the build is $2500 and I am coming pretty close to it already.
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I've been planning on getting an aio recently but am not sure which one to get, i decided i might aswel get an aio for my ryzen 5 5600x because the stock cooler is rediculously loud and i hate it, ive been considering 3 brands specifically for the aio: MSI, Aorus, Corsair. But am having trouble deciding which ones best. I'm limited to a 240mm aio since the top of my corsiar 4000d airflow doesnt have enough room for a 360mm one, specific ones ive been considering are the: Gigabyte Aorus waterforce 240, corsair iCue h100x rgb elite and the msi mag coreliquid R. Right now im considering the Waterforce 240 the most since i think its the best looking one and will nicely match my motherboard, ive read reviews for it and know its supposed to be a very decent aio, msi ones are apparently loud and thats not exactly what i want and the corsiar one is apparently very good. But i just wanted to ask which one will get the best balance of looks, cooling and low noise Also if there are any other recommendations then please send a link to them Thanks
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- aio
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I just got all my parts and I am seconds from beginning my build however I need help deciding where everything will get plugged in. Let me set the stage in terms of equipment! Case: Lian Li 011 Dynamic EVO Motherboard: MSI z790 MPG Carbon WIFI Fans: 10 Lian Li 120mm Uni v2 Fans -I'm swapping 3x v1 fans on Radiator for V2 AIO: Lian Li 120 Galahad 360 My strategy: I want to utilize all of the Daisy Chain advantages that I can with v2; therefore, my end goal is to wind up not using ANY USB hubs and 1 single fan controller. I was going to Daisy Chain 3x Fans on the Radiator (set to exhaust) and utilize the cord that comes with Lian Li Univ2 Single Fan Boxes to plug them into the CPU_Fan Header (to allow CPU thermals to self regulate control). Then take the other side of that cable back into the controller SYNC 2 slot. (The controller has (2) JST 3 PIN ARGB Sync Ports labeled "SYNC 2 & SYNC 4). After that, I was going to install the AIO (which has 2 cables). I was going to plug the 3-pin JST into "SYNC 4 slot" on the Controller, and plug the other cable into the Motherboard AIO Pump Header. Then I was going to Daisy Chain (x3) Uni V2 Fans on the Side (set to intake) to (x3) Uni v2 Fans on the Bottom (set to intake). The Daisy Chain will be through the proprietary single cable for linking groups of V2 Fans. Then I was going to run a single cable from the bottom fan group to the Controller Port 1. Following that, I was going to install a SINGLE v2 fan on the REAR of the case set to Exhaust. I was going to use Lian Li's single cable and plug that fan into Port 2 on the controller. (At this point we are now occupying all of the 3-PIN JST ARGB SYNC ports on the controller (#2 & #4), and only 2 of the 4 ports on the controller using Lian Li's Proprietary Connector. Now I was going to run the controller to 2 seperate tails of SATA Power (to get maximum power from PSU) and plug the main USB 9-PIN into my USB 2.0 Header on the motherboard. Furthermore, I was ALSO going to plug the controller into the 3-PIN ARGB Header on the Motherboard and plug the 4pin connector into the Motherboard 4-PIN SYS_FAN Header. I believe this will give me the ability to SYNC all my Fans and devices to the Motherboard software and control them that was as well. (So I am not stuck just using L Connect 3 for everything). Here is where my question comes in, I just noticed my CASE has a 3-PIN female connector for RGB. Do I need to split one of my 3-PIN JST Sync connections and get that CASE RGB into my controller Port somehow using an adapter? Or should I just plug the case RGB into the Motherboard? Will I be able to control my CASE RGB only through Motherboard software? I'm curious what I should do. I'm good at making custom cables, so my thought was to create a Y-Cable that merges 2 of those JST connections, that way I can plug the case into a SYNC RGB port. However, if plugging it directly into the MOBO isn't an issue and it's controllable later in L-Connect due to the Controller being plugged into the MOBO, I won't even bother. Any advice, tweaks, suggestions is GREATLY appreciated here. I'm new to this community and I'm hoping somebody else who has built something similar can chime in and help. Thank you all!
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- lian li
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PLS HELP CHOOSE RIGHT PHANTEK AIO 360: Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360 M25 & Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360MP & Phanteks GLACIER ONE 360MPH WHAT DIFFERENT??? WHAT IS THE BEST? TKS FOR ALL
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So I have a 7700k, the cooler though has always given me issues. Its not becuase its old. Since day one I have had really weird overheat blue screens when im watching Netflix or something low demand, gaming and stress tests are fine, I have changed the thermal paste, Im pretty sure theres no air in my pump. Idle it runs at 40-45 water temp, sometimes 50 after gaming, higher during, with about 23 degree ambient. Its been happening for so long, but very rarely and I'm just fed up with crashes now. Any reccomendations as to what it may be? It came with SP fans, i bought the fancy new (at the time) mag levs, that didnt do it. I'm down to get a new air cooler, because I have never been impressed with this h115.
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Hello, I'm going to buy the Be quite Pure Base 500FX case and I'm wondering what kind of cooler I should have in my CPU for this case. For better temperatures, is better to install AIO 240mm (Be quite Pure Loop 2 FX) or an Air cooler (Pure Rock 2 FX)?
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Budget (including currency): 2500$ Country: not important Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: rust csgo premiere pro Photoshop and blender Hey there, Im about to build a pc with the "nzxt h9 flow" case. Now, from what i read a 2 fan aio is enough to cool my CPU, but in the front fan cage i have enough space for 3 fans so i wanted to know, do I: A. Buy a 2 fan aio and put it there with nothing below B. By a 2 fan aio and a fan and put them on (Aio first and the fan below) C. Just get a 3 fan aio and slap it in there I wanted to know is it a bad thing to do option B. All tho i dont mind spend 100$ for the bigger aio i prefer not to of course and aesthetics is the last of my concerns If you have an answer or even other suggestions feel free to let me know Thank you for the help and have a great day <3
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I just installed my Ryzen 7 5700X and after booting, it said something about Tpm, so I clicked Y to reset it. It seems to be working fine, but my Ethernet stopped working and my cpu fans are constantly spinning on my aio (spinning fast). How do I fix this? Are they’re any drivers I need to install? Do I maybe need to add more thermal paste?
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I am planning to build a PC in the new Fractal North case. I won't have enough space for a 360 radiator along with a 40 series GPU, but I've seen a build where the person mounts their 280 radiator sideways (level with the CPU) on the mesh version of the case and have been considering doing the same. Otherwise I will be forced to buy a 240 radiator and mount it on the top side of the case. My question is if mounting the AIO sideways would kill it/my CPU faster? Attached is the the build I spoke about (source: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/46BcCJ )
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Hi everybody, I have a ryzen 9 7950x and a ML240L v2. I built my computer three days ago. When I was building, I doubted how much I should tighten the aio pump screws. So I just finger-tightened the screws until they offered a little resistance and the pump would not move. BIOS temps are 45 to 55 degrees. I doesn’t know OS temps because i just run it on GNU/Linux and lm-sensors doesn’t detect it (kernel 5.10, need to upgrade to 6.1). The fact is that a lot of builders recommend to tight the screws until the support tabs start to bend, mine aren’t bent. Do I need to tight more the screws? If yes, should I reapply the thermal compound before? (I applied the thermal three days ago)
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Hi ALL BROS, did me and my brother have an argument about this issue? Please help me decide if I'm right. The story is that my brother keeps saying that the EK360 Basic has the same performance as the NZXT Z73. While I know, the EK360 is quite cheap, and the Z73 is in the top. Through many evaluations, the performance of the Z73 is really terrible. So, if the EK360 is just a product with a much lower price (and most are portable), its performance is equivalent to the Z73, is it fictional? Although I know EK is good at dissipating water, I don't think it's as good as AIO? And I heard that the EK360 Basic is often pumped, right? USING FOR I9 12900K
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I have an stock rear fan set as exhaust and deepcool gamerstorm 240 mm aio whose fans are set as intake. How should I change this to get better thermals. I plan to buy 3 additional fans and fix it in the front as intake and change the aio as exhaust.
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I have an stock rear fan set as exhaust and deepcool gamerstorm 240 mm aio whose fans are set as intake. How should I change this to get better thermals. I plan to buy 3 additional fans and fix it in the front as intake and change the aio as exhaust.
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Ooookay, so I have a prebuilt from origin I've had for going on 13 years. It's the large style mellenia tower as seen here: Anyway these towers come with cpu fan controllers that look like this: ^^I honestly have no idea what to make of or do with these things, still seems relevant^^ The hardware specs are: Asus x99 deluxe(unsure on the deluxe bit) 4x DDR4 16g Corsair vengeance ram sticks Intel i7 5820k 3.3hz CPU Gigabyte rtx 3060 (12G) GPU EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 PSU (Edit I noticed while typing this that my PC has only had access to 16gbs of ram and I've had those other 3 sticks for a very long time .... Sadge) My last AIO cooler was an "Enermax" model, I had a repair store install that around 5 years ago so I'm unsure the exact model but it looks identical to everyone you see on any website from that manufacturer . The model I have has 1 CPU fan cable. Simple The new Aio (when I say new I mean, less than a month old) is a Corsair iCUE H150i Elite from this listing: https://a.co/d/7o9u28a But it has a "tack pin cable"? As it's shown in the official video from Corsair labs but it also has a USB internal cable that connects the motherboard to the led/fan cable hub. Super great plug em in, right? WRONG I updated the aio bc the last one just turned off and wouldn't turn back on. Now we're a month further into the present and the new aio has shut off randomly and won't come back on... I replaced thermal paste with the last one thinking the pump was going just inaudible past the fans. But now the new one lights up so it's pretty hard to ignore that the pump isn't just malfunctioning. The sucker isn't getting any power at all! Now if I plug the old one in, suddenly that one works! Which is great and I'm totally cool to buy some thermal paste and be completely satisfied putting the old one back on but it's just pretty clear the problem hasn't been resolved and I'm gonna be bumping into it until then. So, if you have any insight or suggestions I'm stoked to hear! My current theory is that I may need a new cmos battery. The context for that guess is that over the last week or so my PC has been booting in bios bc it's unsure which disk to boot. At first I thought that one drive with all my media on it was just close to full and that made my PC a little confused but since I had two others with space and the near full one wasn't housing my os or anything, nbd I'd get around to it. But since my bios could effect how my PC recognizes fans and I've never replaced my battery Ps. I did use my cmos flush button with everything unplugged and grounded. No progress.
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Not asking for any help but I figured I’d pass along something that worked for me. I have an H115i RGB Platinum and had issues with it randomly not showing in iCue. I was also getting constant device connect/disconnect alerts from Windows. These would cause freezes in at least one game (MSFS2020) and annoy the hell out of me. The H115i was connected to a Commander Pro so I assumed that was not the issue. Turns out it was. I picked up a NZXT internal USB hub, hooked the H115i to it, and problem is solved. Hope this helps other folks with the same issue.
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Just a quick question does an AIO still draw in air for the rest of the case I think it does but for all i know it doesn't cause this is going to be my first water cooling build
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You might have to change your Arctic Liquid Freezer II cold plate again if you were affected by the faulty gasket and fixed it yourself with the provided service kit from Arctic. My Arctic Liquid Freezer II cold plate gunked up again only 6 months after I changed it with the provided service kit. Service Kit replacement cold plate after 6 months My AIO was affected by the faulty gasket that reacted with the copper cold plate and produced sulfur residue and copper plate deposits. The old cold plate was pretty clogged up. Old cold plate with the faulty gasket So I changed the old cold plate and gasket with the Arctic service kit and meticulously followed the instructions and didn't introduce any new contaminants into the loop. But now after only 6 months the cooling performance of my AIO has dropped drastically. In a AVX2 stress test (OCCT - small - extreme), the core temp spiked instantly to 90°C and the fans ramped up to their max rpms. So I ordered another service kit and opened my AIO again. The replacement service kit cold plate was again clogged up (see pictures). So I replaced it, as well as the replacement gasket. After reassembly and installation, my core temps dropped to 65°C under the same stress test with the fans only at 700rpms. My guess it that there were still contaminants present in the liquid/radiator after the replacement with the service kit. Which were then transported over 6 months to the cold plate and caused another clogging. If this happens again after a few months I might have to contact Arctic an ask them for a replacement unit. More pictures: https://imgur.com/a/MK15mDH Hardware Info: CPU: Ryzen 9 5900x AIO: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 (bought February 2022) Thermal Paste: ARCTIC MX-6
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- aio
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