Silver47

Go through your BIOS and manually change all the settings to your preferred oc settings. The Gigabyte Easy Tune App is known to be really buggy and tends to overvolt your chip. I use Gigabyte boards for quite some time now, but this is a feature to better stay well clear of. If you want to oc your CPU, do it manually through the BIOS.

Does your card feature dual bios? If so, maybe try the second bios . Usually one of the two installed by default is for overclocking and the other one is just bullet proof stock settings. But overall this sounds really bad... I feel sorry for you.

I agree. This is already way more than he needs if anything.

This will quite obviously work just fine. But I really wouldn't advice buying a 8700k if you're pairing it with "only" a GTX 1070 or 1070 Ti. Thats a waste of cpu power. You could very easily get a 8600k and spend the 100$ you safed on the cpu on a GTX 1080 instead. Would get you better FPS for sure.

Overall this seems like you reached the limit of your chip. I really wouldn't advice pushing it any higher. 85c is after all the max safe temp for 24/7 operation as stated by Intel. Also 1.4 volts is already kinda high, maybe start thinking about degradation. If you absolutely need to go higher maybe you should delid and swap the TIM for liquid metal first.

According to Buildzoid the VRM of both sucks. I'm a bit of a Gigabyte fan boy, but I'd say go for the Asus board, their software usually is a bit more intuitive and better implementend.

Really depends on the aio. I had a Corsair H55 branded Asetek 120 mm AIO which lastet only just over a year. But thats pretty much the worst possible case I suppose. That one was taken to its absolute limits and frequently went over 60c ~ 70c. I had it running on an overclocked 3930k which generated a lot of heat, too much for the poor little 120mm radiator. On the other hand I also have a Silverstone SG03 (Apaltek) in my main pc since 2015 and it still runs like a champ, cooling a 4770k. Only complaint I've got with that one is that the pump is fairly audible. So the bottom line is: If you frequently boil the hell out of the coolant, it can evaporate and will permeate fairly quickly.

Also a little sceptical of that. Sub 30c seems a bit too good to be true, maybe the fan and pump were run on full tilt during testing. But nevertheless, I did some research on my own and found similar results. So from a pure performance standpoint the aio 1070 seems to be worth it. (Obviously completely disregarding cost relative to GTX 1080 or 1070 Ti models and relatively small real world gains from an air cooled 1070) But I'm still kinda hesitant about aio on a card like a 1070. I mean why go for the high-end model and water-cool that one? Is the performance difference between this and a regular 1070 really worth the price? And if you have money to spare after putting a 1070 in your shopping cart, why not go for a 1070 Ti in the first place.

Hyper 212 Evo is the answer to all your cooling needs. I've been running a 5820k with a 212 Evo just fine. Yep, that will be enough according to the spec sheet.

Ok got it. The delta between the boost states will decrease. But doesn't this mean that you had to keep your gpu below 45° all the time for it to stay in maximum attack mode? Will a single, thin 120mm rad even be enough to keep a card like a 1070 at around 40° max at 100% load?

Haven't ever seen my Gigabyte GTX 1070 Mini do this. It keeps boosting beyond Gigabytes OC spec even when it goes above 70C. Sure, fan ramps up, but it doesn't throttle at all.

Yup and they're going to piss off a lot of people since according to the Steam hardware survey the GTX 1060 currently is the single most used gpu model by a huge margin of 12.33%. Comparatively only 0.63% use an RX480 and 0.34% a RX580. Also the GTX 960 (as a predecessor of the 1060 in the GTX XX60 series) is on third place with 4.67%. People seemingly really like their mid-range Nvidia gpus.

Its not worth it adding an aio cooler onto a GTX 1070 at all. Complete waste of money since you can adequately cool a 1070 even with a relatively low end cooler. Also the fluid will inevitably permeate through the rubber hoses, so in the worst case after some time you are stuck with a completely worthless cooler that you cant even refill.

Whatever, no one cares about the price of ultra high-end cards. People will buy them regardless. Whats much more important is, that the value model (eg GTX 1060) is getting a lot more expensive and has done so with every new generation since the GTX 660.

Thats indeed really high for a low tdp chip like a 8400, even with a stock cooler. People give stock coolers flak, but they're mostly not as bad as their rep. I don't think airflow is the problem here, neither is the stock cooler. Sounds more like a bad mount to me, your cooler might not be completely seated. Or maybe your thermal grease dried out?

You could go down two different routes. Either upgrade your existing LGA 1150 platform to something like a used i7 4770 or i7 4790. They are still plenty capable. Or you could buy a new cpu like a ryzen r5 2600, but that would require you to get a new mainboard and new ram as well. For the graphics card I'd suggest a GTX 1060 or 1050 TI, but even a used GTX 960 would give your rig a very noticeable boost in graphical compute power.

An Asus Commando? Wow thats a really legit mb. It was the board I really wanted back in the day but didn't have the funds for

This could be a mainboard related issue. I don't have a lot of experience with Ryzen, but it might be some kind of auto load line calibration or auto vcore setting adding unnecessary voltage for extra "stability". A lot of manufacturers include these features which are switched on by default sometimes. I've had this happen on an Asus Z87 Deluxe mainboard once and nearly killed my 4770k because I was increasing voltage manually but didn't realize that that one bios feature allready did add voltage automatically. That would at least explain why your chip is constantly running hot and not cooling down after you stopped stressing it.

By specs alone the RX540 should perform better.

So about upgrading laptops with socket-style cpus in general: I've done it in the past, multiple times without even needing to change the bios. Its definitley possible. Last time I did it was with a Medion laptop, swapping out a i3 3120m and putting in a i5 3210m. It made a noticeable difference in performance and since that laptop had a decent gpu for that time it was totally worth it. The bottom line is: If the i7 3520m (or similar) would have been available for your machine from the factory, there's a very good chance that its just gonna be a drop-in replacement, without the need to even chnage something in the bios. But you should make sure if those two chips have the same tdp, because if not the swap obviously isn't a great idea for multiple reasons. One thing you should keep in mind though: The i7 3520m is (like your current i5) only a two core / four thread cpu, so you might want to consider getting a true quad-core cpu if you allready spending the money on an upgrade. Maybe go with the i7 3612qm (or similar), generally you should look for a 35w part with the suffix xxxx-qm. In this case qm means quad-core mobile.

Stop right there. Just get a new PC.

Buying new when your budget is tight is allways a surefire way to get bad performance per $. If money was an issue and I wanted a budget pc right now, I'd buy: -i5 4460 or i7 4770 (because Haswell has nearly the same ipc performance like Ryzen and uses DDR3 instead overpriced DDR4) -GTX 950 / 960 (its good enough for 1080p, also much better price to performance than new stuff) -Asus H81M-PLUS (or some other cheap 1150 socket mainboard) -8 / 16 GB DDR3 ram, because the prices are like they should be, unlike DDR4 -some case, maybe even a cardbord box, doesnt matter because it doesnt affect performance -some HDD (you can get a 1TB HDD for about 35€ so why not get a new one with warranty?) -some 450w psu (Corsair, BeQuiet!, Silverstone, Antec, ... But you actually shouldn't buy a used one.)

In this configuration the gpu would be the bottleneck rather than the cpu.

What a huge waste of natural resources. But hypothetically speaking yes, you could to that without connecting your pc to the tap. Maybe with a very, very large reservoir. More like a small external tank. Must obviously be big to have enough thermal capacity.

Duh, but vram becomes very important the instant your card runs out of. Because then the performance will be shite, no matter which gpu you have. Realized this on my old 2 GB GTX 680 on GTA V. Its a blast to play with this card, except when you set the viewing distances too high, the framerate immediately falls through the floor.