AmateurPCGuy

Specs: GTX 1660 Super as GPU, BenQ GW2270H on main monitor (connected via HDMI). I'm primarily having problems with the main monitor. Here's problem number 1: Since the GW2270H has support for full color range, I'm leaning to use it. However, Nvidia Control Panel does not let me save my full color range. Everytime the system starts up or is coming off Sleep, I need to set the color dynamic range back to Full. After a couple of tries, it goes there, but NCP does not show that I'm in Full Dynamic Range, as shown below: Here's the second problem: I'm seeing Green and Red trails whenever there's motion in the main monitor in random moments. Sometimes it disappears on its own, but other times I need to either swap out the HDMI cable, or mess with the Dynamic Range settings between the monitor and NCP, or restart the monitor. Sometimes it doesn't even work. Any help will be appreciated.

because I wanted to have an all-in-one bootable USB. Having to bring a different USB for both Windows and Ubuntu is somewhat annoying imo.

I'm planning to utilize a 32GB USB drive for having multiple installers of OS and other utilities. The plan is to use either Grub4DOS or YUMI to put in the following: Windows 10 x64 on MBR (my rationale for this is for old systems that do not support GPT but is good enough to have Windows installed) Windows 10 x64 on GPT Ubuntu Live Disk MemTest86 Clonezilla Maybe Hiren's Boot Drive thingy, if permitted. Now, I'm certain that they'll work fine, but my problem is in the 2 iterations of Windows 10. Do I even need both of those instances or I just need to have the GPT variant and let Grub4DOS/YUMI handle it booting on an non-UEFI system?

I have a total of 5 storage devices at this moment, detailed as follows: ? WD Green M.2 SSD (120GB, Windows OS) ? Seagate Barracuda 500GB HDD (For Programs, only 5% Populated) E: Seagate Barracuda 500GB HDD (Solely For Games) F: Seagate Barracuda 500GB HDD (For Video Production Products) G: Toshiba P300 1TB HDD (all of my data) My problem is that the C drive is mostly 11GB free. This is due to most of the installed programs are automatically installed towards the C drive, with no options to install them somewhere else (gee, thanks Ninite). Now, I know it might sound jank af, but would it be a good idea to move my C drive rogram Files folders to D, then just making a link via CMD to that things won't be broken? If not, what are the other options left (other than buying a bigger SSD)?

@Skiiwee29 I'm thinking of a long route alternative. What if I clone my old Windows install (that has ownership of these drives) to the SSD, then reinstall windows on the SSD? Would that possibly fix these permission problems?

update: tried using the takeown command, same results. trying the icacls command now to see if it will work. update 2: icacls also doesn't work.

Yep, followed it step by step.

Changed permissions on the 4 mechanical drives I had, then rebooted the computer. It still requires my permission. This is the settings from one of the mechanical drives. meanwhile, I can't change permissions on the C drive because "its in use".

How about the SSD drive? I don't need to adjust permissions on that as well?

So I need to do this on all of my 4 mechanical drives?

Bought a WD Green 120GB M.2 SSD drive and started off with a fresh install of Windows 10 Pro. However, I'm encountering situations where the most basic of actions require admin action.Here's the kicker: I already have UAC turned all the way down. Actions that require admin permission include but not limited to: extracting folders Starting an OBS record creating a folder: accessing Controlled Folder Settings and others. I have tried doing this using the hidden admin account built into Windows, no dice. Same permissions required. Before posting this, I found out that I do not have full control permissions on all my drives. I turned them all on except for the C drive (can't turn it on when its in use). But I still get these permissions. Any help? UPDATE: Did the icacls, subinacle, takeown commands, didn't work. Also did the Add "Take Ownership" to context menu registry edit, still didn't work out. I'm thinking of formatting the drives to see if it fixes things. UPDATE 2: Formatting the drives does give me proper admin privileges, but I'm still looking for an alternative where I don't have to format drives due to important and unmovable data.

Exactly as the title suggest. Ever since Chrome became the popular browser around, I've been using it. However, its RAM usage really ticks the crap out of me. However, I don't want to leave the unified environment that I have set up here on my PC, my laptop and my phone. So... convince me... without mentioning the obvious reason of RAM usage.

So after MemTest came back clean, I booted off Safe Mode and did a normal chkdsk and an elevated chkdsk, let that run overnight. I'm now able to boot into windows and I have an instance of Photoshop (with a file open) for about 10 hours (and counting) so that I can put some sort of a load. Idling at 55, with load temp of 89 max. Pretty sure I'm gonna have to look for my thermal paste and replace the thermal pad on the CPU and GPU to alleviate this. Also, no shutdowns so far.

Device: Asus n61Vn So I finally got around to swapping the thermal pads on this laptop, and beefed it up along the way (cuz I accidentally ordered a 2mm pad instead of a 1mm one... oops). So after swapping the pads, I can't boot into windows. After inputting my PIN code, the laptop just shutdowns after 5 minutes max. But here's the catch, its not overheating. On that one rare moment that I was able to open up CoreTemp, both CPUs were sitting at 55c on idle (on a thermal pad, nonetheless. my thermal paste went missing) and 91c when running on CPU-Z's load tester, so I'm certain that was not overheating. So I checked the memory stick. removing the top stick on the laptop (so I was running on 2GBs) let me go past the login screen and not shut down. Next logical thing I did was to load up MemTest on my USB drive and do a one-pass. Its currently running right now (on the 4GB config) right now. So far, no issues, and no shutdowns. So I'm now assuming that this is a poop job on Windows, but what other aspects should I be looking at?

So I have an old 80gig laptop HDD (currently in an external enclosure) that I want to split into 4 partitions: 1 4GB partition for Windows 7 installer 1 8GB partition for Windows 10 installer 1 8GB partition for Ubuntu Live Disc and the rest of it will be full of installers for drivers, programs, etc. How can I make the first three partitions be bootable?

Came across this during my night browse-by of usual websites I visit before I go to bed. Honestly, I didn't watch the video since I'll assume this is clickbait and the content of the video goes two ways: a. he explains what is already known (that its the YT Content ID algorithm eff'ing up) or b. (God forbid) He's making more drama. Either way, its clickbait fodder and I don't want to bother watching it. Here's the video if you're curious:

So part of our school project is a program launcher that is designed in a school laboratory environment. Part of the software configuration process is that the secondary (or student) account will have very (and I do mean very) limited access to Windows features (obviously, the admin account can access it all). Here's a list of things that I plan to happen: Ctrl+Shift+Esc disabled, but Ctrl+Alt+Del requires a UAC admin prompt Win+D, Win+E, Win+L is disabled (basically most of the Win+ keybinds) Locked desktop (this is the only restriction I can do alone) No Start menu (I can probably jerry-rig this by just hiding everything in the Start menu and taskbar) Win+R is an admin-only command (or at least locked behind a UAC prompt) No control panel, or any settings config that is not behind a UAC prompt. I'm aware that most of these require either a group policy edit, or a registry edit, but I have no idea where to begin. any ideas?

So don't change thermals for now, but do so when temps get to around 75-80?

updated the monitoring programs, as well as intalled ryzen master: on consecutive 50v50 games in fortnite, aida64, HWMonitor and ryzen master reports 60-70 degrees, at this point, i'm almost sold on buying a cp15 and calling it a day

recorded a couple of temps this morning (all in celcius) BIOS idle temp was 37-44 degrees Windows idle was 46 per AIDA64, but 54 per HWMonitor MemTest(1-pass) - 50-51 AIDA64 load had an average of 64.2, but HWMonitor reports 79 1 game of a 50v50 in Fortnite yields 56-59, but HWMonitor records 65 i call the HWMonitor results fishy tbh, but do these temps warrant a TP replacement?

My build, RYZENONE, is about a year and three months old now. I'm thinking of replacing the thermal paste of it since the idles of the device is now at 50 degrees, as opposed to 40 when first bought. Now, local retailers has a couple of choices available: the three Cryorig thermal pastes (CP5, CP7 and CP15), the Noctua NT-H1, and the CoolerMaster MasterGel Pro and Maker, priced as follows (I'd put in other brands here but they're generic): CP15 - ~5 USD CP7 - ~7.50 USD CP5 - ~9.50 USD NT-H1 - same as CP5 MasterGel Pro - ~10.50 USD MasterGel Maker - ~13.50 USD Now, the general knowledge is that unless its liquid metal, thermal pastes produces little to no difference from each other. So, my inquiry is that would it be okay for me to get the cheapest, decent tube available (Cryorig CP15) and call it a day or shell out a couple of bucks more to get either a CP5 or a NT-H1? I don't think it matters, but I'll put it here anyways: I'm planning to use the same thermal paste that will be bought on my laptop, and I don't mind using the same tube when re-applying again in the future.

Its probably on the borderline (especially when I'm hammering this with games), but I have not encountered a sudden shutdown ever since I had this freakish setup. As for the logs, the Minidump folder is empty (gee, thanks, Windows.). Probably because I system restored to a time just a few hours after I finished my fresh install (specifically, after installing DirectX drivers)

I don't have any other stick at hand right now... plus I'm getting through Windows properly now. I'm currently monitoring every single movement to see which ticks the barrage of BSoDs and everything else. Believe it or not, I had this (I admit) freakish HDD setup running for about a year now. CM Calculator gives me this (see attached image). If I went ahead and removed the ODD, that would be lower of course.

PC in question: RYZENONE (check my signature for specs) I suppose let us start at the very beginning: January 1, 2018. My PC suddenly goes kaput. After about a day of maintenance, I figured it is a dying OS hard drive. Replaced it, confirmed the drive is dead through another system, and all is well... until 6 months later. August 1, 2018. After barely touching my PC for about 3 days, I suddenly got a BSoD: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION or IRQL_LESS_OR_NOT_EQUAL, and a couple of other BSoDs that point towards ntoskrnl, which leads me to believe that its another WIndows install gone kaput, which then evolved into numerous bootloops and even a BIOS freeze. I already had my eye on two things: another dead OS drive and my (lone) stick of RAM. I attempted a clean windows install, same problems occur, so I replaced it with another hard drive. However, that doesn't fully mitigate the problem. I'm still getting BSoDs of SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTIONS and a couple of bootloops. After verifying that the previously installed OS HDD I have installed here still works, I cleared all charges on the HDD and went into another possible culprit: the RAM. But the RAM is not the problem either, proven after passing a 4-pass test of MemTest86. After the MemTest, I was greeted with yet another BSoD: BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO, which was resolved with a System Restore. So, with both the hard drives still alive, and my RAM passing MemTest, I can only look at one last culprit: the SATA Chipset. Why? Because I have all of the 6 SATA slots filled up (5 HDDs and 1 ODD). I'm planning to remove the ODD and see if lowering the load on the SATA chipset could solve the problem, but I wouldn't bet on it. In recap, here's a TL;DR on my situation Windows Install takes a massive poo, reformats, massive poo still exists, changed OS HDD. Same massive poo problems exists but doesn't occur as often now. Did a MemTest, RAM passes, gets a new BSoD, fixed through system repair. What other steps should I take to get this rig up and running again? PS: I would upload a dump file here, if it weren't for Windows not saving them after a BSoD, shame.