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RicY

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Everything posted by RicY

  1. RicY
    Maybe the pump itself is dead. Can you hear it buzzing?
  2. RicY
    In August 2017 I bought mine ref.pcb 1080Ti at caseking.de for 729€. 2 days later it was up to 789€ and by friday (2 more days) it was already 819€. So snatched it for cheap.
  3. RicY
    Poor mans gaming phers updated. Love every cent spent on them
  4. RicY
    For me all went honky-dory. I use that FE edition block. Had no isssues with mounting it. Even had them apart for cleaning after a little mishap with fluid, went back together with no problem at all. So overall, If you like them for the looks, I'd recomennd them all 100%.
  5. RicY
    They are copper based blocks. Those aluminium accent peaces dont come in contact with coolant. I myself use Phanteks Glacier blocks for my R5 1600 and GTX1080Ti.
  6. RicY
    Everything looks ok here. This is really strange, that so much rad space gives so high temps (for reference you can check J2C video on that poseidon card performance). If you are up for some testing - Try the pump all by itself to see how it is pushing liquid. If it seems a-ok (D5 shoul move A LOT), add in gpu in the loop. If it checks out good too, keep adding components to see if there is any significant flow drop after any of them. Just when testing, keep the bucket somewhere in the level of the pump or even better - as high as highest point in your system, so there is no gravity to help pump.
  7. RicY
    Actually D5 is a beast of a pump. It should not have any problems pushing your loop. I'm running a cheaptastic Magicool pump-res for like 40$ to cool a R5 1600, GTX 1080Ti and 240mm and 360mm slim Magicool rads and using Arctic F12 fans for 5$ a pop. If the fans run like 800-900rpms I get my 1080ti to 45-46c at full tilt (Forza 3 at max, The Division at max). Maybe you could post pics of your loop, so we can see whats up.
  8. RicY
    It depends on the case, what screws are used. I've had case that use M3 thread sized standoffs and screws for MB, but another one used those 'murican 6/32" UNC type standoffs and screws. So its really a gamble to know what screws to use, but most commonly theese are the two styles used in pc's(from my experience) - M3 and 6/32".
  9. RicY
    Pretty much any tubing with 10/16mm or 13/19mm ID/OD is as kink-ressistant as soft tubing goes.
  10. RicY
    Amen to that Maybe the 18$ parts are those phesant plasitc ones? Caseking offers Lux' s for 20€ 140mm ones and 18€ for 120mm ones. But yeah, my pc never costed more that that 1080ti I got for 729€ :cry: :1st_world_problems:
  11. RicY
    I'm currently thinking of using the 160 or 220 too, but combo'd with a pump, so that is 200€ for ya Even tho that chineesium Magicool pump works wonders and is silent like a dead kitten Since Igot Phanteks case, there is no way I'm not using their stuff for watercooling too. Ihmo their blocks are high flow too, since there are no fancy jet plates. And cleaning is easy AF, I managed to F up quite a bit with coolant/tubes and it gunked up both blocks with slime like residue. Cleaned everything, poured in some blue antifreeze, since it had the color I liked and been running problem free for 4+ months now (old coolant gunked in like 1 month). And I considering going for Phanteks Halos + fittings, but man, so much money for the looks only
  12. RicY
    Ok, I get that smaller = cheaper, but smaller =/= cheaper. I agree on that it has no iGPU, but there are those awfull APU's from the dark ages of AMD laying around reworked for AM4. Maybe there is hope for AM4 APU's soon enough to kickstart ITX boards, since mobile is getting those Vega's. Lets wait and see.
  13. RicY
    I bit the bullet and bought Phanteks blocks for my cpu & gpu. Man, they are awsome. Build quality is on par. Even has built in RGB On my whislist is now the Phanteks reservior. Love that industrial look. Soething like Heatkiller style.
  14. RicY
    Maybe try caseking.de I've ordered all my W/C stuff from them and some hardware too, since I live in a shit hole where being an enthusiast pc user, you get looked at like a nerd with no life, hence the shortage on local supplies.
  15. RicY
    So in theory E-ATX should be cheaper than mITX?
  16. RicY
    Seems like we're not on the same page. Im wondering how a mITX board can be more expensive than a ATX board?
  17. RicY
    Umm...What?
  18. RicY
    Even a FX8350 can max out that GTX780. I'm myself am running a R5 1600 paired with 1080Ti. On more visual demanding games even 1080ti goes 90-99%, given that I play on 2560x1080p res. If you aim to play those esports titles like csgo and stuff, better go with an Intel. Still a king for single core perf, altho with the recent stuff going around and possible 5-30% perf hit it all in the air. All in, Im very pleased with my R5 1600.
  19. RicY
    Why isnt any manufacturer making budget/HTPC oriented boards for AM4!? Dont need any of those show-off bells and whistles for mini build, that would be stashed or tucked away in a cabinet. We were living without those "shielded" pci-e slots for ages. Nothing went wrong. Cant even image how big of an bellend you need to be to break a pcie slot off a board. Why on earth a mITX is more expensive than an ATX board (looking at you ASUS...)? Give me basic mITX board please!
  20. RicY
    Well, EK itself offers fluids that are compitable with their FG parts. Either concentrated or premixed already. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/cooling-liquids-coolants
  21. RicY
    This - https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3408 Edit - never mind my post. I was thinking its an m.2 drive
  22. RicY
    Just do a quick once over for leaks and you should be golden
  23. RicY
    Thats my point. From my experience (like 5 soft tubing builds) i have had 0 leaks. Even when i did the first ever (I guess 8 years back?) Usually when I fill and bleed my loop, Im giving it a good shake to get air out of rads and blocks and if any leaks should happen, it would be then.
  24. RicY
    Depends on loop config & setup. Since I myself use soft tubing, my leak test is pretty much as long as it takes to fill and bleed loop. Once filled and majority of air bled, go around everything, check if no leaks and its good to go. If you are going hardline with lots of fittings it may have more points of failure because of that, but my guess its the same - fill up, bleed air, check for leaks, leave running for like 1 hour, if no leaks present, there should not be any. I see no point of leaktesting more than 2 hrs tbh. My 5 cents.
  25. RicY
    Ihmo any FX series cpu should be killed with fire. Better search for an 4th generation Intel cpu deal. And GT730 isn't oriented for gaming too. Maybe go scrapyard style and shoot for used, but more gaming worthy hardware? Even for csgo you should aim for single core performance. FX series suck bad at it. Go Intel.
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