Betabot

Yep, so I guess it's about time to hit the video tutorials and reading a lot of forum guides, and a matter of practice. Thanks for the help

I have a manual lens, which I think means this wouldn't make a difference? At least that's what I learned from a quick google search

I did not know about that technique (Full Res Silent Pictures), but after looking into it a bit it looks great for increasing the lifetime of the camera. I kind of get how it's working but at the same time see that it's an experimental feature, which I don't really mind. So it's basically resulting in the same image, but the shutter doesn't do the work? Therefore reducing strain on the shutter and taking away the movement from the shutter (which I don't see as a huge impact on movement). I see that if you take it using the dmg format, you aren't able to get exif data from them, which IRTimelapse needs. Anyway around that? Also I don't understand that last bit you had there. You just disconnect the lens a bit while half holding the trigger, at the start of a timelapse?

Ahh right, that's fine. I will try ask there. Thanks again for your help

It's not the condensation of bringing it inside, it's while I'm outside taking the photos. Live in a cool tropical area. Thinking about some type of warmer device for the lens, the bag could work for just the camera part. I've seen a lot of good reviews about the LRTimelapse add-on. I think if I get into it more I will have to go that way.

Hey everyone, So I just started to get into time-lapse photography, and I am currently using a Canon 700D (Magic Latern firmware). Just wondering how my shots so far have turned out in your opinion. I love doing night shots, but will start to try some daytime and sunrise/sunset shots soon. Password: timelapse Two questions. 1. How would I go about keeping my camera safe from moisture, while keeping the lens safe from fogging up during night shots (example at the end of the second time-lapse). I've had a look around but there seem to be to many opinions out there. I'm from Australia, so I just need some rough idea, so I can search for alternative equipment. 2. With sunrise/sunset time-lapses, does anyone know a free method of de-flickering the time-lapse. There seem to be so many paid ones available, but hardly any free ones. Cheers

I haven't seen much about the 14mm, is that the f/2.8 one? Yep I realise there are heaps out there, I will definitely be sticking with Canon, as I have quite a few around that it is possible to share lenses with. Main reason, is no one has a nice lens that would to a high degree in Astrophotography. Which is why I'm thinking of going with the 24mm option.

So it pretty much comes down to the question if I would ever move to Full Frame in the nearish future. hmm Thanks everyone, I'll try think through it and either get the 16 for APS or 24 for Full Frame (APS temp)

Well my other main choice was a 16mm at f/2.0 but it only states APS-C. Therefore I was thinking that if I do ever upgrade that's one lens that I lose, unless I'm thinking about that wrong as well. Why wouldn't that lens work with a full frame? I guess I'm trying to think both in long term of if upgrade, and my best choice now.

So lately I have bought a Canon 700D, and would like to start getting into space photography. I'm pretty good with a camera's manual controls, although need more practice with manual focusing. Ive been looking around and come to the conclusion that the Samyang 24mm f/1.4 could be the one to get. I know that it's mainly for Full Frame cameras but is still good for cropped sensors. I was just wondering what people thought about this, or if they have a similar setup. Also would there be a major difference in quality in using that lens on a crop sensor? I can't find any shots of the one lens on both types of sensors. Thanks

While I don't agree that this was the right thing to do, it was the smartest thing to do from the programmer side. As most of you seem to forgetting a major point. If he programmed in within working hours on a work computer, it's almost 100% likely that the company would be able to claim it as their property and not pay for it. Which would either result in them either kicking him off his job, or maybe giving him another job, but that's a risk. Also if he did develop it on his own machine and own time, then it comes into the territory of the company legal right's in their data and processes.

Sorry should have mentioned, has to be able to be shipped to Australia, and that price was in AUD. Thanks for trying either way, will see if I can find their equivalents. Well the UGreen one I linked is running a 96W PSU, so it should be right. Thanks for the warning, I will watch out when looking for alternative ones, but I think the one I linked should be safe.

Hi, I'm not sure if this would be the place to post this, so direct me to the right place if not. I'm looking for a desktop charging station, where I can hook in all my devices and charge them, instead of having heaps of power adapters lying around and sometimes going missing. Currently looking at this: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/31582 Just wanted to check to see if others have recommendations. Thanks

Techies that actually know how to multi-quote

Currently nope, currently also don't have access to my main pc it's in another city. Pretty sure I could run it at decent settings at 1440p. I don't expect ultra settings on an old Card (even 2 of them) to run at a stable 60.