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About Frikken

  • Title
  • Birthday 1995-08-16

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty H87
  • RAM
    2x G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB
  • GPU
    ASUS GTX760 2GB
  • Case
    NZXT H440 Red
  • Storage
    9TB (Seagate and WD)
  • PSU
    Corsair HX850 850W
  • Display(s)
    AOC 52 Series e2752She 27"
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken
  • Keyboard
    Corsair k70 Cherry MX Blue
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 RGB
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  1. It is an SSD, but It's strictly for important programs and still has around 50GB left (500GB capacity)
  2. Yes, and mine is overclocked to 4Ghz. But it's just not performing as well as it used to, whether that's due to wear or the increased resource usage many programs have now. Things like Chrome will frequently run at 100% usage and trying to play games with something like Twitch or Youtube is a nightmare. Photoshop and Premiere are pretty sluggish too, which never used to be the case. That's why I want to get something that can handle multi-tasking, but it's a question of which is the better investment for the price.
  3. The better multi-core performance is in comparison to my current CPU, not the 8700k. I acknowledged in that quote that the 8700k would be a more expensive but faster chip that would last me longer, but as I said the downside was the massive increase in cost. This kind of comment is unnecessary. You could have just linked the video and been fine, but you chose to be rude for no reason. To answer your question, I work 2 jobs and see almost no free time to sit around and watch tech videos unless I'm specifically looking to upgrade. I didn't need to upgrade until now, therefore I didn't keep up with the latest trends.
  4. I don't live near any of those stores so my options are limited to online stores (Current PC shops in my town charge insanely high prices). After looking into it, I definitely see that they're pretty close. I think I might be going with that or the 1700x as it's only $10 more
  5. I'm looking for at least 6 cores and something modern, so the 4790k is not an option. As for the 1700, how close is it to the 1800x? Factoring in overclocking for both, is there a significant difference?
  6. I'm looking to upgrade my CPU to something more modern (specs below). My current one isn't bad, but it is starting to show its age, particularly with running programs at 100% usage even after virus/malware checks & reinstalling Windows. I just need better and more reliable performance. Main usage will be gaming (modern games), video editing, photo editing, programming (web), and digital art. Currently I'm looking at moving over to AMD with the 1800x. The higher core count and way better multi-core performance is very tempting. However, in wanting to be relatively future-proof, I'm also considering saving up a bit more to go for the i7-8700k, as it seems nearly double the performance of my current chip. That being said, cost is where I really run into issues. I can't just upgrade the CPU and be fine. This upgrade to a newer generation of hardware means I'll be shelling out tons on a new motherboard and DDR4 RAM. After pricing out the Intel upgrade, I'm looking at about $1k in upgrades just for a few components, while the AMD upgrade is around $700. Which one is really worth the plunge? I'm leaning more towards AMD since it's still faster and much cheaper, but the Intel tempts me for longer usage and not needing to upgrade for a while. Current specs CPU: i5-4670K Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty H87 RAM: 2x G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB GPU: Gigabyte GTX 970 4GB Case: NZXT H440 Red PSU: Corsair HX850 850W Cooling: NZXT Kraken Operating System: Windows 10 Pro
  7. So I was correct in that, good to know. I actually had been looking around and thos really break bank at the moment for me, but I may consider them a few months down the line if I can save up. This one seems like a good bet, lots of extra cables to get but probably worth if it works. Would I lose out on quality with converting from rca to 1/4in?
  8. Hello there! I am currently trying to get a good audio setup for my computer and I almost have all the pieces, but I'm missing one thing. You see I have my sound system set up to be a combination of high quality monitoring for accurate audio and general use. Because of the latter, I would like to get a good subwoofer to go along with everything, as I'm a bit of a bass-head. My current setup is as follows: http://amzn.to/1PLLDZG Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 USB Interface http://amzn.to/1PLLJRc Sennheiser HD598 Headphones http://amzn.to/1PLLOUT Alesis Elevate 5 Active Studio Monitors w/stands Now, I'm fairly new to the audio game so I'm not incredibly knowledgeable on what's compatible with what. My assumption from reading Focusrite's guide on hooking up a sub is to find one that takes line/xlr inputs AND outputs, outputs to send audio to the speakers and inputs to get a source from the interface (as shown here http://bit.ly/1PLMc5M). So, if this is correct, could I find a subwoofer for under $200 that can work with these speakers and the interface? Am I gonna have to drain my wallet? Or am I thinking about this completely wrong? I live in the US in case this matters for pricing/shipping/availability.
  9. I will keep this in mind then. This definitely looks like something worth checking out Macbook is not an option I also am not planning on connecting it to any external display. At home I will be using my desktop so there's no need for using the laptop there unless I'm doing intense multitasking, at work it is purely for multitasking (I'm stuck with a fairly outdated computer so I need it if I want to be able to do more things at once), but the biggest thing is doing side work while on campus or on the go in general. I will check out the others though, do they have the IPS display? What's unfortunate is most sites don't list that feature anywhere so it's hard to tell without looking it up elsewhere.
  10. How is the build quality in this? Normally I wouldn't be concerned but I've never heard of this brand before so it'd be nice to know how well it'll hold up. For the price though, this seems like a likely choice for me
  11. Sorry for the late reply, got busy as I posted this. I don't want to break $1700, I live in the US (TX)
  12. Hello there, I know a lot of these are posted every day but I don't see a lot with the details I'm looking for. I'm looking for a laptop that I will use for Graphic Design and light gaming. I need it to be capable of running the most common Adobe programs (PS, AI, AE, etc) without many problems. I know AE will give even desktops trouble, so I'm not expecting crazy performance on that program. One of the tricky parts of this is that I'm looking for a laptop with an IPS or PLS panel. As I mentioned, I plan to do a lot of design work on it so I would like color accuracy. In terms of size, 15" is fine but 17" is preferred, no less than 1080p. I'm not too picky about bulk, I won't complain about a giant brick but a slim body would be nice as I will be lugging this thing around campus all day. I would also prefer more than 12GB RAM at least, and while I can live without it, an SSD would be nice (though I may buy one separate if that would be cheaper). While it's fairly easy to find some laptops of these specs, the panel type is really the killer in my search. Plus, I'm sure most of you know what the best price/performance models would be. Thanks a lot in advance!
  13. The problem is that this drive was the biggest one I owned. My system drive is a 500GB SSD filled with my most used programs, my other internals were a 1TB for games and a 750GB that's way too old to store valuable stuff on. I bought this drive as a means of both backing up my system whenever I reinstalled windows and as a storage for mass files like all of my media for when I would eventually get a laptop (that's gonna have to wait longer now). I also already got an RMA for the drive (advanced shipping so they let me keep it for a certain amount of time so I can back up my data). So at this point it's just a ticking timebomb before I have to send them my old one back (unless I can just send back the replacement drive and keep this one for as long as my warranty lasts). I got the replacement because the drive was still working and I hoped I could recover my stuff before it finally gave out but it was too late at this point.
  14. I don't blame anyone but myself. I know this could have been avoided if I had backed up my stuff but as money is tight it wasn't my biggest priority. When I say I can't afford to send it out I mean that. I only have $200 to my name right now and even my next few paychecks won't cover the cost. At this point I've accepted that all my work is gone forever and it's gonna be very tough to deal with this. I just wanted to try everything possible before I threw in the towel but at this point it's long gone. I appreciate the help and advice anyways.
  15. Nope, it was always in a safe place so having a backup wasn't on high priority, I have no idea how it fell and at this point I regret not thinking negatively from the start. I'll try this and see what results I get. His results worry me though.