Infernalz

In USA, currently on Century Link and I know Xfinity covers this area also. I just found this site that apparently covers approved/usable modems. Though third party but it's more than the 4 options they approve on the ISPs site. I don't see a single one that covers both ISPs but one being phone line and the other a cable connection I can guess that's why. Looks like Century Link probably isn't DOCSIS being a phone line. Would it be this easy in the end? Buy one of those modems (or see if I can do a modem only mode on the one I have) then plug a real router off that?

My current ISP and one I could switch to both have their short lists of approved modems and they're all just their own branded ones. I get it's probably just DRM or trade secrets or what not but is this the only route we have? Is the 'modem only' mode something that needs to be set up with the ISP? I know I have a way into the web portal that you could get to by just going to 192.168.1.1 (or there's a name for it I'm sure) but I'm not seeing any "turn on modem only mode" button. Problem is this still means I'd have to rent/buy out the modem still going forward. No device I look at actually says it does modem duties nor does any recent (~1 year old or so) videos on routers from LTT actually go into it.

Everything I read says there's no way to get around an ISPs forced rented (or sometimes purchasable to be fair) modem/router/access point/switch combo box. Even if I want to buy a new router there's really nothing out there I can buy that takes over for the actual modem aspect of the ISPs device. I've also seen there can be a way to make whatever I have now a modem-only thing and attach a separate router to that but no way to purchase my own third-party device that can act as a modem also. Is there anything that can take over modem duties from my ISP box? Especially for different ISPs if/when I'd shop around I don't want to have to get a whole new modem for the whole new ISP. I'm already looking at routers but what can I do about the modem aspect since it seems none of them cover that part?

;_; Gotta try at least one bump.

Updated the picture. The darkness on the left side there is what's new. That area just looks blurrier instead of a real solid color like the right side. Backlight is what I'd have to assume but I didn't think it'd be just a small change. I looked at pictures of the entire screen going black to the point of having to hold a flashlight up to the screen to see anything. I don't know if the backlight would explain the weird color issues though either. Bit depth (8-bit as shown on spec sheets online), resolution, and refresh rate are all what they should be. I don't know where the setting to factory reset would be.

ASUS PG279Q 27" 2560x1440 IPS 165Hz Turned on my PC, logged in, 30 seconds later the monitor flashes dimmer than it was. I re-plugged both ends of the display port cable and have re-plugged both ends of the power cable. If I had to say it seems worse on the left half of the screen and the pixels, especially on the gray of the edges of the site here, seem fuzzy and like I'm looking at an array of color that make up the gray instead of just a solid gray. This thing has already got bad image retention over the last ~2 years and it seems this just made it much worse. I do believe this was first start up after a Windows update (Windows 10), maxing brightness and contrast in the monitor's OSD didn't change anything and the settings they were on were what they were before. I've attached pictures of the left vs. right sides of this site in terms of the color an image showing the screen as a whole given a full screen of the color of the site color. Even forgiving that horrible band of color you get when getting a picture of a computer screen the actual perceived difference still shows through. That black area in the center has been a problem for a while, along with the spots... I'm thinking I cleaned it wrong but that's not today's problem. Any help would be appreciated.

I'd love to see these tested in a bedroom setting. Cover most of one wall and see before and after what you can hear through it. Or find/do something else and show it off for that, it'd be more.. I don't want to say relatable but more what the average bro would need it for.

+1 was wanting to know exactly the same thing.

Working it with this right now: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor $484.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler $99.95 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard $160.77 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $89.99 @ Best Buy Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $59.99 @ Lenovo Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $144.99 @ B&H Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass ATX Full Tower Case $109.99 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $196.00 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1366.67 Mail-in rebates -$20.00 Total $1346.67 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-04-05 10:32 EDT-0400 This is what I needed to see and thank you for the reply. I'm moving them towards AMD with higher core count for streaming, I think that was the line I was remembering for building a streaming PC was for more cores. On PCpartpicker the NH-D15, a dual tower, is showing cheaper than a single tower so I'm thinking that is the way to go. Though it's saying compatibility with it isn't guaranteed? It versus taller RAM and "may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard" though I think it comes with hardware for the right socket mount? And then it versus cases are never known until it's in the case unfortunately. The RAM speeds was a good thing to be reminded of, though is capacity something I need to be thinking of for streaming too? Is 16GB still enough or should it be 32GB? Could just put 2x8GB and then go 4x8GB later if need be. For the PSU; I highly doubt they'll get the 3080 they were looking at, hell none of us will. If they get the 970 as a place holder they should get them going, and honestly I think they'll end on a 20 series. 850W will be able to handle it all for now but is it worth it to go 1000W in case they're dead set on the 3080? It could almost double the price on that piece alone.

Budget (including currency): $1500 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming games over Twitch Other details: Planning for a friend. I know streaming takes more resources since the computer has to split between the game itself and the streaming software and encoding. I don't know what exactly we need to focus on for this though. Right now we're looking at: Intel i7-10700k, 8-core AIO CPU cooling MSI Z490-A PRO ATX LGA1200 motherboard Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 32GB (2x16gb) DDR4 3200 RAM Team GX1 960GB SSD EVGA 750W 80+ Gold PSU Fractal Design Meshify C ATX mid tower case GPU:lol they're gonna keep their gt 1030 and like it for now. They might have access to a 970 in future. I have questions on this list though. Would it just be better going AMD for the CPU, more cores at least would help? I doubt AIO cooling is going to be needed, if not just a beefy air cooler. For these parts I can only think the mobo is whatever, it'll work. Never heard of the brands for the RAM or SSD, buy brand name or else? What about he PSU for a 30 series with the power spikes? Is that a non-issue after this long? They're gonna deal with their current GPU for the time being anyway but they want something better when able. Thanks for the help

I can't imagine it's not given it was from a system builder, but the PSU sticker isn't facing the right way to know and he's not one to take it apart and see and I can't get there until tomorrow to try. We're going to swap in his old PSU and see if that changes anything, newegg's power calculator shows only needing 462 watts for the system and his old one should be 550, technically above but not a lot of headroom.

Haha new info. Got a different error code involving 'kernel power,' of course an easy cooler change is never the issue. - <System> <Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331c3b3a-2005-44c2-ac5e-77220c37d6b4}" /> <EventID>41</EventID> <Version>8</Version> <Level>1</Level> <Task>63</Task> <Opcode>0</Opcode> <Keywords>0x8000400000000002</Keywords> <TimeCreated SystemTime="2020-12-30T19:08:37.5997212Z" /> <EventRecordID>7598</EventRecordID> <Correlation /> <Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" /> <Channel>System</Channel> <Computer>DESKTOP-3NBKPJU</Computer> <Security UserID="S-1-5-18" /> </System> - <EventData> <Data Name="BugcheckCode">127</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0x8</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0xffffd78024fe0e50</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0xffffd78024fdaef0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0xfffff80049a03610</Data> <Data Name="SleepInProgress">0</Data> <Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data> <Data Name="BootAppStatus">0</Data> <Data Name="Checkpoint">0</Data> <Data Name="ConnectedStandbyInProgress">false</Data> <Data Name="SystemSleepTransitionsToOn">0</Data> <Data Name="CsEntryScenarioInstanceId">0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckInfoFromEFI">false</Data> <Data Name="CheckpointStatus">0</Data> <Data Name="CsEntryScenarioInstanceIdV2">0</Data> <Data Name="LongPowerButtonPressDetected">false</Data> </EventData> </Event>

Can a brother get a bump ;_; Need me some more ideas here.

So I remembered the event viewer and got him to find what major went on when it crashed, The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000124 (0x0000000000000000, 0xffffde0996ca3028, 0x00000000b2000000, 0x0000000000030005). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: 6ebec81b-698d-423d-afa5-9891f9c6c694. I couldn't find anything related to that bugcheck on my own.

For future generations looking for this: The issue was drivers. We updated the BIOS, the chipset, some driver for the power mannagement, and the sound driver. Somewhere in there it was fixed, probably the power management and/or BIOS. We saw what drivers were missing/outdated somewhere in the system, he looked it up himself. We also changed out the thermal paste, the AIO had its little thin square pre-applied but when we took it off there was barely any left on the IHS to show where it made contact. After I put some of mine I had left it dropped his temps almost TWENTY DEGREES. Rediciouls. This computer was bought by one friend maybe 2 years ago, a cyberpower pre-built, then is now with another friend, this issue was started around of it's last uses before the first friend upgraded recently and passed it on. The computer has a weird issue where it will BSOD and crash about 30 minutes into running only some games. Stellaris and The Forest die, while Warframe doesn't. Having him keep an eye on temps every 5 minutes while he plays shows that his temps rise over 80C on all cores at about that 30 minute mark. He is running an i9-9900K using some SLIM 1 x 120mm AIO cooler, I don't know the exact brand but it is sure a slim variant in that the whole radiator is as thin as the fan itself. I can only assume this problem is in cooling, I can't imagine that slim cooler could handle that CPU and it taking a bit to heat up to fail is my only evidence. Are there any better ways to test this? Heck we might pull the AIO off the CPU and see the 'remove before installing' plastic bit and be done with it, but I'd like other opinions here. Any help would be great.