sosolidshoe

I really don't think it's coil whine. I found a thread on Corsair's forums where you can hear it a bit better, I had an old worn out case fan once years ago that made a similar sound: https://forum.corsair.com/forums/topic/184088-rm1000e-fan-issue/ Anyway Amazon were good enough to let me return it for a refund so now I just have to get a replacement ordered. Do you have any particular recommendations about BeQuiet? There's quite a price difference between the various ATX3.0 models, does the different styles of fan make that much of a difference in practice or are you mostly paying for the efficiency rating?

https://ufile.io/4qihi67o I missed the little rattle it has at each start, and to my ear in person the susurrus/modulation is much more pronounced and crunchy sounding. It cuts off at ~57 seconds if you want to skip to the part where the difference is audible. And it's the PSU because I did a similar check against all the various components, it's definitely coming from down there and the GPU which is the next closest active component actually does have a zero-fan mode and is not spinning.

Both my previous builds used 750w Corsair RMs and I had no issue with them, it's why I felt comfortable buying the 1000e, unfortunately it definitely is the PSU and it's unlike any coil whine I've heard before

Skip the first paragraph if you don't care about the background/rant: I recently bought a bunch of parts and had a local PC shop assemble them for me(last build was a nightmare and I couldn't be bothered), works great except I was a couple of noctua fans short for the case so they left a couple of the original leafblowers in there, it was intolerable so I quickly just coughed up for the last couple of noctuas...at which point I find me and Corsair have very different definitions of "low noise" as it has an infuriating intermittent buzz/hum/faintly grindy noise every couple of minutes lasting 30-120 seconds which some testing and a bit of googling has led me to believe is the fan. This happens even at idle or just browsing the internet, and at the bottom end of the fan curve with the case & CPU fans spinning at ~20% everything else in the case is basically silent - the noise is even at the perfect frequency to somehow be *more noticeable* if I put my closed-back headphones on. So I'd much appreciate recommendations please, for a 1000w PSU(the build is a 13700K & 4080 with an overclock planned, so I don't trust an 850w to deal with the spikes and I like the efficiency), ideally modular, at least Gold rated and, importantly, *silent* at idle and low load. As in, if my machine isn't under an actual sustained load, I don't want to hear it at all. Even more ideally, it would be available through Amazon UK since that's where I got the Corsair and, assuming they accept the return at all, they'll probably insist on vouchers. Obviously I don't want to spend a lot - I chose the rm1000e initially afterall - but my budget is reasonably elastic if I actually get what I want - a PC that can handle high end gaming but is functionally silent in day-to-day use.

I'd considered shucking, but isn't the result pretty random? I'm the kind of quiet freak who has all-Noctua fans in a HAF-X case, so there being a chance I'll end up with one of the more growly/thrashy models isn't appealing.

I've read the guides. I've read the "best of" lists. Mostly what I've achieved by doing so is confusing myself because of the way WD are realigning their range and whether I need to care about the whole CMR/SMR thing. My new system uses a 500gb SATA SSD for the boot drive, I have a 1tb 4.0 nvme SSD for a game library, but I can't decide on a media drive. My old machine uses a 4tb WD Green that's getting on for eight years old at this point, so it needs replaced both for data security before it dies and because I keep butting up against the size. I'd like something that's 8tb(or more, but affordability is a factor), quiet and power efficient. Its sole purpose will be housing ripped and downloaded media for viewing on the machine itself(I don't need a NAS). Advice is much appreciated.

Okay I hooked everything up with the speaker installed, it's giving me 1 long 2 short, which is supposed to mean videocard memory error. Which makes absolutely no sense to me, since the card works without issue with my existing setup, and the error occurs regardless of whether I use the 4.0 x16 slot going through the CPU or the 3.0 x4 slot going through the chipset.

Thanks chief, for some reason the paper manual that came in the box only mentions/details JFP1. Got some coming from Amazon today so we'll see if that provides any extra info.

I'll be honest, it's been so long since I've had to deal with beep codes I'm not even sure where you'd plug one in on a modern motherboard. There's nothing in the documentation about it. Any ideas?

Could really do with a hand, I'm getting no signal to my monitor when I try to start my new rig, can't enter BIOS to set the windows install USB(or rather, I can't tell if I've successfully entered the BIOS or not). MSI B550 Tomahawk, 3600x, 32gb Teamforce Vulkan 3200mhz RAM, Corsair RMx750 PSU, GTX 1080. I've tried an alternate monitor, alternate cables, different ports on the graphics card, different RAM configurations(normal furthest-with-a-gap, the reverse, next to each other in all possible ways, and both sticks tested singly in every slot), I used the single bifurcated PCIE cable that came with the PSU and is ostensibly the standard, I used both bifurcated PCIE cables but only the primary connector of each, and I switched back to my old 750w EVGA PSU with two single PCIE cables for the GPU. The CPU was fine when I opened it a couple of days ago, no bent pins, and I installed it according to the instructions without issues. Every single time the machine starts up, it cycles through the diagnostic LEDs(CPU, MEM, GPU, BOOT) and stays on BOOT, which is expected without a proper boot drive. All case fans work, the GPU is lit and does its normal test spin of the fans, and the Wraith cooler that came with the CPU is spinning fine. I know the graphics card isn't the problem, because it's from my previous rig and I'm using it again right now on that to type this. I'm genuinely at a loss.