TheLUCKYfighter

I think my main question is, assuming the pump will work correctly from now on, is there any remaining danger or significant negative to not RMA'ing the board and just ignoring the broken PUMP header?

It's a Fractal Celsius+ S24 so it should normally not be that cheap quality. Why would I lose the pump when connecting it to the CPU header? The way Fractal instructs installing this AIO in the manual is to connect all fans/pump to the fan hub it comes with, and then connect that one to the CPU header. You should expect this to not be a problem in itself if it's in the official instructions, right?

Could I just leave it like it is and stay with the CPU header for everything? Or might that bring more problems in the future?

Hey there, So I built a new gaming rig 4 weeks back and used (for the first time) an AIO. Upon receiving this 'new' AIO there were immediately some problems with it. For example, it came with no thermal paste (should have been pre-applied even) and there were some screws missing. Anyhow, I sorted this out with my seller and continued building. Next thing that happend was that the AIO sounded much more loud that seemed normal to me, this made me even more doubtful than I already was. However, after doing all kinds of (stress)testing everything seemed normal except for the noise. I played flawlessly for around 3 weeks until suddenly my PC shuts down due to overheating. I was very confused at this point and quickly pin pointed the problem to the pump of the AIO, which didn't seem to respond anymore. After all that happend, I simply returned it and got a new one. Now comes the interesting part though. Today I installed this new AIO but noticed the EXACT same problem (pump not responding, but fans spinning). Luckily however, no more missing scews or thermal paste. I had my fans and my pump seperatly connected, pump to the PUMP header and fans to the CPU header. As such, I tried to connect my PUMP to the CPU header to see if that changed anything. To my suprise, this fixed the problem. So it seems like my PUMP header randomly died while gaming? Is this even possible? Could a malfunctioning AIO cause such a thing? There is no visible damage. I do not plan to RMA the MOBO (although maybe I should) for multiple reasons. For one, it would mean I have to take apart my PC again in a drastic way and remain without a PC for some time. My AIO is actually intended to be used this way (variable pump speed) and the sound is now MUCH better with this new one (I changed it to constant earlier to reduce sound). Sadly, even if I was prepared to RMA, I bent one (uninportant) pin on it and heard they often don't accept an RMA if this is the case. However, maybe someone here has an explaination to what could have happend. Maybe even a fix.

Anywhere I can check the liquid temps?

I've done some more research and did a bit of fiddling with the settings and seems like it was the PWM control that caused the noise. The way the manual tells you to set this AIO up is to connect both fans and the pump to a PWM control hub and connect that one to a single header on the MOBO. This means that both fans and the pump will variate in their speed constantly. I now connected both fans to a PWM control hub connecting to my CPU header and connected my pump seperatly to my PUMP header. The CPU header still uses PWM to variate the fan's speed depending on the CPU temperature. The PUMP header now runs at a constant rate. This DRASTICALLY decreased it's noise levels, no matter if it was 100% of lower. So a good piece of advice to any other newbies with similar issues in the future

Hey there, I'm a little bit new into AIO's (just bought my first one: Fractal Celsius S24+) and I'm confused about what the best RPM seetings are. My AIO cooler allows me to do three things: 1) Use PWM to variate the pump speed depending on the CPU load 2) Set its RPM to 100% constantly (2700RPM) 3) Set its RPM to a lower percentage, like 35% For me, the first option seemed by far the loudest and I also read that constantly changing RPM on the pump might impact its lifetime negatively. The second option is a little bit less loud, yet still audible. The third option is inaudible but results in around 4-5 degrees increase in tempratures. I've read many different things on the internet, but what is the best setting overall? Most importantly, what are each of their consequences on the lifespan of the AIO? Kind regards, Arno

It's mounted as an exhaust on the top, so should follow all those guidelines. Does air cause this kind of sound, of is this just the normal sound of an AIO? Thing is that it actually could even be a defect, my unit came without pre-applied thermal paste (even tho it should come with it as advertised) and was missing 4 pair of screws and those little round things to put between ur screws and the surface. Makes me cautious that here isn't some kind of defect with this unit. However, temps seem to be fine.

I've just build my new gaming PC and for the first time ever, I am using an AIO. In this new build, I discovered a new type of sound I have never heard before coming from a PC. It sounds a bit like someone mowing their lawn 5 houses in the distance, or someone trimming the hedge at that same distance. The sound gets louder when under load, and less loud when idle. First, I though it were my fans. But after disabling all of them and still hearing the sound coming from the middle of my PC, I am pretty sure it's the pump. The AIO I bought is the Fractal Design Celsius+ S24. Both fans as well as the pump are connected to a small included fan hub (PWM) and that hub is connected to the PUMP header on the MOBO. So it's logical that when the load increases, both my fans AND my pump start increasing their speed. Now I have two questions: 1) Is this sound normal? It's quite annoying at times but maybe I just have to get used to it. 2) Is there any way I could reduce or fix this sound? I tried capturing it with my phone, but couldn't manage to get a good representable recording. It always sounded way too loud or too quiet. Around my PC is about 38dB of noise when idle (all parts included) and around 50dB when idle.

Yeah, with debunked I mainly meant the whole "Only buy cards with all MLCC capacitors, others are bad" thing. However, going back to topic, do you have adivce in regards to my original question?

This deviates a bit from the topic, but this has in fact been debunked. The 'more expensive' capacitors, called MLCC, and the 'cheaper' capacitors, called SP-CAPS, all have their own strenghts and weaknesses. Choosing for one or the other is not necessarily better or worse and depends entirely on the overal PCB design. The latest drivers NVIDIA released fixed most of the crashing issues people had, which they blamed on the capacitor configuration. That is not to say there weren't some models in pre-production that were unstable due to a bad configuration. They have been never released to the public though. I don't like quoting Videocardz because they are often wrong about a lot of things, but in this article they summarize the responses from all manufacturers (including nvidia themselves) pretty well: https://videocardz.com/newz/manufacturers-respond-to-geforce-rtx-3080-3090-crash-to-desktop-issues

Hey there, A simple question, with a not so simpel answer to it probably. What are the best AIB RTX 3080 models out there that one should aim for purchasing? I say aim, because actually buying one isn't a thing at the moment, pre-ordering so we'll get one soon-ish is tho. I have an MSI RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio pre-ordered on the day of release. I've had a MSI GTX 970 GPU for years and I have been very satisfied with it, reviews of previous cards in this line-up are also good, which is why I choose for this specific brand and model. Reviews of the different models this time around weren't out back then, but they are now, and they made me doubting my choice. The Gaming X Trio seems like a great card, but it misses out on so much potential. Plastic shroud and backplate, 3 8-pin power connectors with for real appearant reason, no dual bios and a seemingly ugly/basic RGB strip. On the other hand, performance seems great and it seems to come out as one of the most silent cards. Against this, I've seen incredible reviews of the Asus cards. The TUF gaming model, which is usually a budget option, uses aluminium materials, had a great cooling solution, dual bios and an extra HDMI slot. On top of that, it is actually cheaper! The RGB isn't great (better than a random LED strip tho), the Gaming X Trio gets higher clockspeeds and it is less silent, but it seems like a great card. Then we have the more expensive Asus model, the Strix. This one has all the advantages of the TUF, but adds to it better performance than the MSI Gaming X Trio, a great and tough design and much better looking RGB. It is definetly more expensive, but maybe worth it? Asus really seems to have done a good job with their cards this time around and I would be lying if I weren't tempted to swap to their cards. Of course, this would mean having to wait much longer again, as well as probably having to pay extra (even for the TUF). I now paid 830 euros for the Gaming X. Swaping to the TUF OC would cost me 30 euros more (non-OC 20 euros more, so that's not a question). Swaping to the Strix 100 euros more. What do you guys think, should I swap or should I stay? Any other models worth it?

I'll definetly take a look, probably have to see what cooler the stock Zen 3 CPU are going to ship with.

Even without overclocking?

Hey all, I've made a PC configuration below and I would love to have some opinions on it. My intention is to build a gaming PC, which I can also use for AI training, that will allow me to play all games for the upcoming 5-ish years on ultra settings with 1080p and 144Hz. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PrvQjp CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define 7 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Notes: The Zen 3 AMD CPU's will be announced soon (early october), if they would be available in the nearish future and similarly priced I probably will swap my current choice for such newer CPU. The PSU is currently 750W, depending on the new CPU power demand this could go up. I'm not sure how much margin I have here? I live in Europe, so the prices given by PCPartPicker and not representable for me (eg. I can buy the X570 board for 220 euros). This build would cost me around 2000 euros. I know the 32GB RAM is overkill at this time (RTX 3080 is too for 1080p gaming), I mainly choose this because I want to be future proof and because Flight Simulator already recommends this amount of RAM in their game. It's only 30 euro difference between this and 16GB RAM of similar specs for me. I didn't choose a PCIe 4.0 compatible SSD because I don't think it's yet worth the price premium. Looking forward to your opinions!