FinTheHuman

The only halfway decent one I saw was this: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/core-v1-vertical-motherboard-how-to-and-custom-build.3359707/ But he's just hiding the same nest of wires I have with the AIO heatsink. That's not something I'd be willing to do as it completely breaks the airflow (there's a giant fan in the front that he's blocking). He also modded the case to go sideways and used wire cutters to do so. I don't think I'd want to mod the case.

I just finished my ITX build for couch gaming. Here is what it looks like. The Core V1 doesn't leave much room for cable management. I did the very best I could. I'm looking for feedback and if there's anything else I could do that I've possibly missed. To me this looks very messy.

Double check the graphics settings (you're in the display settings in both screen shots) and make sure that the ray tracing option is turned off when you switch to DX12 (this is a DX12 exclusive feature so it automatically won't be on for when you're in DX11 mode). The 1080 doesn't have tensor cores and if ray tracing is on it puts a ton of extra overhead on the CPU. This is the only thing I can think of off the top of my head that might cause this.

44C was the peak I saw, generally they stay at 40C

Yeah, I've got 12 passes of memtest86 all passed. So it's just these residuals mismatching. No failures. So no worries then?

I can't get to 3000 on the B460 board. It caps at 2666. It's a hard limitation of all B460 boards using locked i5s.

No, never.

So do you think this would represent a hardware problem or just a BIOS problem and I have to figure out timings? Note that 12 hours of Prime95 blend passes as does 12 hours of OCCT. Should I even worry about it?

Okay, so I got much further along with 2133 CL18. I got to pass 19 where there was a different residual. I would think, though, that XMP speeds should be stable.

Correct.

Well, I didn't need to wait for the full 20 passes. Even at CL16 it still had a different residual on pass 4. I'm going to try 2133MHz CL18 now, which should be extremely forgiving.

I'll give it a whirl and let you know. It should take about 30 mins to do another set of 20 runs.

I did set it to 2666 in the BIOS. What I meant by native is that it's not considered an OC. The board supports native 2133 and 2666. Some Z series boards support up to native 3200, anything beyond is an OC. Anyway it is indeed running at 2666 and I've tried with "default" timings and with 15-16-16-32 (which is the XMP speeds). There's actually no option for XMP in the BIOS. Either way, it still results in the above.

Hello folks. I'm having an issue with a new build where it's unstable in Linpack Xtreme. The residuals on a run of 20 aren't matching. I've attached a screenshot. Everything is at stock, and I mean stock stock. This is a locked CPU, no MCE settings, no overclock, no XMP settings (the RAM is running at native 2666MHz with default auto timings). Specs are below. I've tested RAM using memtest86 for 12 runs (doing 4 at a time since they only let you do 4x on the free version now) and everything passed. Obviously it's a fresh Windows installation, too. All drivers are up to date, including chipset and storage. BIOS is the latest version. CPU temps peak at no more than 88C on the hottest core under max load. Any ideas? I'm thinking I got a defective CPU or motherboard. I might try returning both if I don't hear anything here. i5 10400 at stock Crucial Ballistix 3000 MHz DDR4 CL15 AsRock B460M-ITX/AC GTX 1080 Ti (hand me down) Intel 660P 1TB SSD EVGA G2 750W PSU Thermaltake Core V1 SPCC Mini ITX Cube

TL;DR: -Jap Caps all the way! The 1300w EVGA G2 does indeed have all Japanese Capacitors on the unit, even the modular PCB. The in-line cable capacitors are CapXon, but no biggie. The eco mode fan works like a charm and the unit is absolutely quiet until there's enough of a load that other fans drown out its noise anyway. I agree. I don't care where the product comes from. I just care that it is Japanese. As you said, the company sets the quality specifications. That's why I want all Jap Caps. They are the best quality in the industry. This goes for most things I look at, not just capacitors. For me this goes for car parts, capacitors, steel (knives), Televisions, etc. If my car doesn't have at least 90% Japanese manufactured parts it's a hard pass for me. I prefer it to be assembled in the Japan, too, but would settle for USA. But Mexico or Canada? Pass. I find parts from US companies to be crap and parts from Chinese/Taiwanese companies, also crap. The Japanese actually care about their products and what they put out into the world, and that's deeply ingrained into their culture and their sense of honor. Here in the USA I can say with full confidence that it's all about putting out a product that just meets the qualifications of a "working product" while producing it as quickly and lazily as possible. From China/Taiwan it's all about the raw profit margins and nothing else, quality be damned. Irregardless, I feel like we've strayed from the topic completely. I appreciate everyone's help, but I literally was only trying to figure out what modular PCB caps were used on the 1300W G2 and I hadn't asked for a debate on which PSU I should buy nor on which caps were better. So, getting back on track, I decided to go buy the G2 since it seems none of the other PSUs in this category were using Jap Caps on the modular PCB anyway. I took the shroud off and to my surprise they are actually using all Chemi-Con both inside the unit and on the modular board! So I'm very happy! I also de-sleeved a cable, and the in-line capacitor is CapXon. Not the end of the world, but technically speaking the box saying "100% Japanese Capacitors" is technically inaccurate, but I really can't imaging making a fuss over the in-line cable capacitors. Also, I made use of the eco mode switch (@Juular @cheesytacopastaman). The fan never comes on at idle, during gaming, or while doing other tasks like browsing, or even video rendering. It does come on when I stress the entire system, though. Once I get to a 650W draw, then the fan comes on, but at that point I can't even tell how loud it is because it's drowned out by the CPU cooler and GPU fans. So all in all I'm now happy. And hopefully if anyone else has this question, this information helps.