Elverias

No. I’ve seen videos with those things but i couldn’t find any shop who’s selling it But connecting my own GPU to it is a bonus anyway and not a requirement

Hi all, since i'd no luck for a few days now on reddit, i'll try it here. I need a laptop for studying and I don't want to buy a cheap one because I need it so bad, I'm taking apart my desktop PC and selling a bundle of CPU, board and AiO for 700€ (AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, ASUS ROG Strix B550-E Gaming and Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360), new prices are 800€ and my parts are almost 1 1/2 years old. So it's a good price, I think. But since I don't have a working "gaming" PC anymore then, I'm thinking about playing on the laptop as well. I plan to play The Last of Us on the PC in March, but other than that, I don't have any plans for demanding games at the moment. If it's possible, I also have a RTX 3080 "left" in my desktop PC. So if I can somehow hook that up to my laptop ... Total budget (in local currency) and country of purchase. Germany (EU), 999,99€ (less = better) Are you open to refurbs/used? Yes How would you prioritize form factor (ultrabook, 2-in-1, etc.), build quality, performance, and battery life? 2 in 1 or ultrabook would be nice How important is weight and thinness to you? Quite-ish? Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A. N/A Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run. Maybe gaming. If i can connect my RTX 3080 to it, i don't need any internal graphic card. Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)? I would like to have a good panel. If possible, i would like to have a good (mechanical?) keyboard. Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion. I can't priotize whats more important to me. It should last for 7-8 hours of office work (documents, writing ...), i would like to have a good panel with a higher resolution (to watch movies and stuff) while i can have some brower tabs and programs open without any performance issues. And if we using the whole budget, it should last a few years, esspecially since this is the most expensive piece of tech i've ever bought then I would also prefer to have a more stealth/ business like laptop and not a agressive gaming looking one. I like the silver or grey Lenovo Ideapads or Macbook's looking as example. Thanks in advance

Had a long offtime now. I turned the monitor on and couldn't notice andy flickering but he started in 4k (but max resolution is 1440p lol). After changing to 1440p, it came back. I bought it from amazon. They deleted closed my account for now reasons so they "can't" help me. Is it for real 400€ trash now?

Okay, i changed now from the iGPU to the GT710 with this monitor. I've the same issue and if i turn the monitor on, i see another "burn in". Through the flickerin it's hard for me to see this but you can see it through my camera. Arrow down shows a old Browser windows and the arrow up shows a picture of a QR code which i needed around a hour ago.

Hello guys, i just had to remove my RTX 2070 and currently i'm using a GT710 (for multi monitors reasons) and the iGPU (HD 630) from my i7-8700k. Both Monitors on the GT710 are working fine so far but the main monitor .. I got heavily headache now from the flickering. The monitor is the LG 27GL850-B. Btw. after the change to iGPU, i could see the BIOS menus from the bottom was "burned in" the monitor on my desktop, a few restarts seems to solved the problem but it happend. What i've tried: Installing drivers through Win10 update Installing the latest VGA Drivers from Intel itself Changing resolutiuon from 144p to 1080p Changing the Refreshrate from 144 to 120 to 60 on each resolution Changing from DisplayPort to HDMI and did the 2 steps above again Changing from iGPU to the Graphics Card Deactivated Sync Activated "HDMI compatibility" in monitors settings Set monitor settings to default (never changed them but well ..) Unplugged powercable for 10 minutes I didn't thought this is a monitor problem but it's just on the LG monitor, no matter which GPU source i use. Before i took out the RTX, everything was fine.

I've done a few things at a time .. I did another clean install but removed every other drive. I haven't installed the drivers by myself but let it done within a windows update. Plugged in the hard drive to get my backups and to use the storage. Since my 250GB SSD was on 88% through CrystalDiskInfo and was on 1°c i left it removed and i think this causes the stutter because i'd not a single stutter since then. Before: every 1-3 hours a stutter for 2-5sec.I still don't know how this could happen because there was just a few games installed which i haven't played but everything seems to work now as intended. Thank you for your help

Than i can't provide it because of the clean install i did after the bsod loop. I know. Before I changed to the m.2 SSD and so on, everything worked absolutely flawless for around 2 years. So, maybe it's the current Win10 build, maybe the m.2 SSD .. I also changed the PSU. idk.

I can't found it but it would just be there if i'd a bsod lately, right? After i had the bsod loop, i did another clean install. Guess i mixed up something

Sure. Just need to check what it is and how to get the information

10.0.1904 Build 19041

Hello there, first of all, please excuse my english. I've now since around 2 weeks a new m.2 nvme SSD (Kingston A2000 1TB). I did a clean install of Win10 Pro and had every of my data on my 2 HDD's and my old OS drive, which is a SATA SSD. In that time I also changed my GPU from a GTX 1080 to a temporary GTX 1550ti and added some case fans. Since that, my PC randomly freezes for seconds and the mouse isn't moving. It happens only so far while having a video source open (chrome /w YouTube, Twitch, Twitter vids etc. pp.). I haven’t played much yet but in the 2-3 hours i’ve played i didn’t recognize anything.I can't tell if the current Win10 build is the reason, because before i switched to the nvme, there was a new update. I did another clean install since I removed the GPU for a day and after plugging it in again, I was stuck in a bluescreen loop. So I left the GPU removed, did first of all the driver installs, plugged it in again and no more bluescreen there but still the freezes. After 2 weeks now i’ve changed 3 day ago the GPU to a RTX 2080 Super since i thought it’s because of thermals or just a bad card. Well .. here we are. Any advice? PC current setup: Mainboard: ASUS PRIME Z370-A CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K GPU: RTX 2080 SUPER RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3600MHz PSU: Corsair HX850i NVMe SSD: Kingston A2000 1TB (CrystalDiskInfo: "Good", 30°c) SSD: Intenso 250GB (CrystalDiskInfo: "Good", N/A°c) HDD 1: Seagate BarraCuda 1TB (CrystalDiskInfo: "Good", 27°c) HDD 2: Western Digital Blue 2TB (CrystalDiskInfo: "Good", 28°c) OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit Edit: Since i wrote this the first time - the health status of my SATA SSD has changed from 100% to 88% via CrystalDiskInfo and i'm pretty sure this happend within the last few days. Dunno if this mean something.

Hello there, who has the better colors? Left or right? Both are VA.

Yeah, i played the panel roulette a long time ago with a MSI monitor which had also a VA Panel, that's why i haven't bought one of the listed ones yet. I mean, amazon offers a 30day return so i can't go wrong here but usually i plan to keep it. But maybe i should just get it and see if I like 21: 9 at all.

Reading through tests, watched some videos and seeing your posts, I decided to get some Arctic P12 120mm PWM combined with the DEEP COOL FH-10 FanHub. I'm not 100% sure if the way i want to connect them is right, so want to to ask here. On the FanHub itself, it says "CPU FAN". Do i really need to put it in my "CPU_FAN" of my motherbut or will any port work since they're all 4-pins? I mean, thats also what they described, right? And one more thing about the CPU fans. Should i plug them into the fanhub? Leave them in CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT or connect them both through a Y cable to CPU_FAN?

Hello there, first of all, exuce my english I want to join the ultrawides but don't know where to start. Since I returned my LG 27GL850-B, i've around 480€ on my amazon account and want to buy a 21:9 monitor for around 500€. Some extra bucks are possible but just around 20-30€. The most of the money is on amazon, so i searched there and found some but for the most i couldn't find anything about them or just from little YouTuber or unknown websites and to be fair i wouldn't even understand enything, even if every of the monitors had already reviewed my the most common sites and YouTuber. So let's get started .. They’ve basically the same things on paper .. mostly 34", 3440x1440, atleast 100Hz, VA-Panel and so on .. AOC Gaming CU34G2 (100Hz 420€)/ CU34G2X (144Hz 510€) LC-Power Gaming LC-M34-UWQHD-100-C (100Hz 370€)/ LC-M34-UWQHD-144C (144Hz + better stand for height adjustability 510€) Lenovo G34w-10 (100Hz, 550€ which drops kinda often to 500€/ 520€) MSI Optix MAG341CQ (100Hz, 430€) Iiyama G-Master Red Eagle GB3461WQSU-B1 (ADS-IPS, 144Hz, 440€), the description is kinda confusing .. Pictures are saying it’s 144Hz, 1ms, 3440x1440 and the description 4K UHD Ultra Wide 1600p (but also: “max display ratio 3440 x 1440”) ANTGAMER M34G5Q (from HKC, 100Hz, 460€) and the same thing with the Iiyama, titles and description says 4k 2160p and a and a little further down 3440x1440p. Just like the Iiyama I'm not expecting a 4k 100Hz 21:9 at this price range lol. LG 35WN73A (35”, AH-IPS Panel, 100Hz, 515€, also dropping sometimes) Philips 345B1C (100Hz, 440€) What do you think about it? Should I get one of these? Or maybe stall on 16:9? I mean, the monitor i returned for around 480€ is available for 420€ now haha