Whateverchan

Pretty random. Could be 10-15 minutes. Could be over one hour. Or could be 2-3 hours. I tried to keep track of how long it takes to restart, but couldn't find any pattern.

OK. I'm running it now. What do you want to see, or what should I be looking at?

@CarolineOK. I tried using another power cord to connect the PSU to the power strip. Still got a restart after 10-15 minutes. Well, except that this time it showed a recovery screen instead of just going straight to the desktop. Not sure if that matters. So I guess there's nothing left to test?

Well, if you have one that you want to recommend me, I'm all ears. I've looked at the list of best CPUs and I see mainly Corsair or EVGA. And then I see other people saying Seasonic is better. I just hope, whatever I end up getting, won't be defective. My componets: 3600 Ryzen, 1660 Super MSI, G.Skill 16GB, 1 CPU fan, 3 other fans, B550 MSI Edge. PSU calculator says my PSU wattage is 288. I thought getting 650W will be good for the long term, since future GPUs will likely use more power. Right? Compact PSU...? I don't care about that. I just need one that fits inside the case and works. My god... Replacing those cables will be another pain... So all the cables that connect the PSU to the GPU, mobo, etc. all came from the PSU and not the parts? It's been a long time so I don't remember. I can make a warranty claim, yeah, but Silverstone made it clear I will have to pay for the shipping cost of sending it back. I don't know if the other manufacturers do this, too? At this point I am no longer patient enough to spend another two weeks waiting for RMA. And I don't feel like trusting them anymore. I might do it later on to have an extra PSU around, but now I just want this resolved. And again, worst case scenario this continues even after replacing PSU, I can return the new PSU back, instead of waiting for two weeks in vain. Let me check the monitor's cable tonight. It's an old ASUS one. My current PC cable looks like this. https://www.target.com/p/tripp-lite-power-cord-extension-cable-standard-16-awg-5-15p-5-15r-13a-25-120-v-ac-voltage-rating-13-a-current-rating-black/-/A-78449495#lnk=sametab Not exactly cheap. And here's one from Bestbuy. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-6-ac-power-cable-black/5884334.p?skuId=5884334&ref=NS&loc=101 Now that's... quite a price difference. Let me ask this, too: should I continue to use my PC or stop for now (only to buy the PSU)? I mean, is this going to cause the CPU to malfunction again, unless it's another defect this time?

Yeah, plugging it into the wall didn't help, unfortunately... Still happens. Power cord, too? Yikes. Hope it doesn't turn out to be the cord after replacing the whole PSU. Would you recommend me a PSU? Heard good things about Seasonic since they are a manufacturer, unlike Corsair or Thermalake. How's this? https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1SYIM42S1JNB2&keywords=seasonic+650w+power+supply&qid=1646951458&s=electronics&sprefix=seasonic+650w%2Celectronics%2C120&sr=1-5 And this, I'm not sure what the difference is https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-GX-650-Full-Modular-Application-SSR-650FX/dp/B077J9QTDR/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1SYIM42S1JNB2&keywords=seasonic%2B650w%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1646951458&s=electronics&sprefix=seasonic%2B650w%2Celectronics%2C120&sr=1-3&th=1 Edit: I came across this thread https://linustechtips.com/topic/1093286-why-you-shouldnt-buy-a-seasonic-focus-plus-goldplatinum/ Is there anything else I need to watch out for or check?

It says 3600 now. Thanks, guys!

This sounds similar to what I am dealing with, except that I don't play games, only watch Youtube and run a bunch of tabs on Chrome. Been getting random restarts, no idea how to replicate them. I notice that you also have a Silverstone PSU. I have this, not sure what tier it is. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017WL5UIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Couldn't find it on the list. Can anyone tell me? Are the red numbers on your picture the voltage of the PSU, and the white ones are what is required?

But I did, as you can see on the picture. But the top still says DDR speed = 2133?

I was able to set my DRAM to 3600, enabled XMP profile before, but now everything is reset after I replaced my CPU. I don't know why I can't set it back to 3600 again. https://i.ibb.co/cwP8hZY/20220308-213904.jpg https://i.ibb.co/TqvZp2T/20220308-213448.jpg https://i.ibb.co/4S36WZQ/20220308-213503.jpg That's where I'm supposed to go, right? When I set it to 3600 instead of Auto, the PC restarts, then displays a message that says "overclocking memory failed, use default setting" and wouldn't boot. I had to go back and change it back to auto. Did I miss something else? Thanks in advance!

I checked the PSU. Unplugged the cables and plugged them back in. No loose cables. Well, except the mobo cable, because that thing is too damn tight I couldn't even take it out, lol, so no chance of it being loose for sure. Anyway, no visible external damage/issue. Of course, no idea what internal problems there are. Can only hope and pray for everything to work well now... Is it possible for the CPU (or other parts) to malfunction because of these random restarts? I'd hate to have to RMA the CPU again. So... any idea what the culprit is? Did I get another defective CPU again? Or is it simply the PSU's turn to malfunction this time? Or perhaps the issue lies somewhere else? Getting a new PSU isn't a big problem; it's determining the correct cause of this. I'm at a loss at what to do here. Appreciate any advice or suggestion. Edit: OK. I found another weird issue. I shut down the PC, but instead of powering down, the PC turns itself on again, as if I chose to restart it instead. What in the world!? Should I make a new thread for this in the troubleshoot section?

Again. Two more times. I think I need to start looking for a new PSU. Can anything else be the cause...? Guess this also means I wasted $110? Too late for refund, huh? And... what if this continues after I switch the PSU?

Uh... Problem is that the power cable is too short so while it does reach the wall outlet, it's gonna be hanging out on the wall. I plugged it into another socket on the power strip instead (hope it wasn't the same one I used to plug it into). I actually paid extra for the PSU. It was platinum something, $120 or so. God hates me if it turns out the culprit is the PSU. Not that the random restarts happened often enough for me to find out. Happened only twice in a week or so last year. I'm not looking forward to seeing it happens again. If it does, maybe I'll buy a new power strip, or plug it into the wall and test again, or check the PSU (not like I can tell if anything's wrong with it, though...). So that means the CPU malfunctioned because of some power related issue? I have a PS4 plugged into this same power strip, too, lol. Update: it just happened again, lol. Onto the wall outlet, it is. XD Edit: this is the PSU I bought in 2020. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017WL5UIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Uh, I never noticed any fan noise issue, though.

Nope. Nothing. Even WhoCrashed didn't report anything, either. At least now I can test the wall outlet without worrying about anything.

I'm thinking of plugging my PC directly to the wall outlet instead of using power strip. The outlet is closer to my bed so I use it to plug in my phone and tablet's charger. Used to plug my laptop in it, too. I'm suspecting that my power strip might not be working properly. Just a guess, of course, so I want to test it. I've had a few random PC restarts over the years, not blue screen, and I had no clue what caused it. Last time it happened, my PC stopped booting. I bought it to a repair shop and they determined that the CPU was the culprit. AMD said it was defective and processed the return. Last night, I put the new CPU in, after 10 minutes, it restarted again, 2-3 times. I powered down my PC, waited a few minutes, then turned it back on. No more restarts happened after that. I'm wondering if perhaps it's the motherboard or power issue. Power strip is quite old already. So I'm thinking of using the wall outlet instead. At least to see if anything else will happen again. I'm aware that it's recommended to have surge protector and UPS instead. But I don't have them right now. And I want to know if this is power issue or other hardware issue. So, if I can only use either power strip or wall outlet, which one is safer to use?

OK. My RMA request was approved. I got an automatic email on Thursday morning saying that "AMD product has passed inspection and replacement is now approved. Expect a follow up email shortly confirming replacement product shipment." I sent another request in the afternoon asking them if they can ship it to me faster. Fedex Ground took about 6 days to reach them. If they can't, tell me how long it'll take. I have yet to receive either a follow up confirmation email, or a response to my new request. Their office in NY is now closed and they have no customer support in other states. Best I can hope for is that the replacement has already been shipped out and it'll take until Wednesday or so to reach me. Or maybe they have yet to ship anything out! Does it usually take them this long to ship out replacement? Wonder if even if I did manage to call, would they be able to tell me status of my RMA request... Really not happy with their customer service. Is Intel customer service better? I might have to reconsider my option the next time I upgrade my CPU. Apparently, I'm stuck with AMD CPU now...

OK. I got the RMA shipping label from them. Only received automated messages so far. The address is in Miami, and I live in California. Label is for fedex ground. How long would it take to get to them? Also, I don't have the clamshell plastic package that it came with anymore. Was gonna put it in a plastic sandwich bag, but the website says this: I have no foam or sponge pads, either. Not like they'll cancel my RMA if they see the CPU in one or two sandwich bags, is it...?

I have no idea what caused it to break, lol. But I don't believe I did anything to push it to its limit and ended up breaking it, either. I'll have to ask the technician if he can do that for me... PC is at the shop right now. I don't know if they are still visible. I have the SN and PN on the box, though. That helps? How much does it cost to send back a little CPU anyway? How long did it take you in total to get the new CPU?

My CPU suddenly stopped working last week. The PC couldn't boot, and the motherboard has a red light on where it says CPU. I took my PC to a repair shop and the technician concluded that the CPU was the culprit. On the outside, there is no visible damage. No bent pins, nothing unusual at all. So it must be some kind of internal damage, and there's no way to tell what it is. He put another CPU in and it worked fine. Now I'm trying to request a replacement from AMD. I just sent in a request form just now. Is this something that will be covered under warranty? Or will I have fork out $250 for a new 3600X? I currently have a 3600, bought it in July 2020 from BH. I contacted them and they told me to contact AMD directly. Front of the CPU: https://i.ibb.co/SvvW63N/20220218-212407.jpg It's been covered with thermal paste, so whatever codes or texts printed on it are probably not legible anymore. AMD states that: Am I screwed? No visible damage on the back: https://i.ibb.co/6w7KTX2/20220218-233943.jpg What are the chances that a CPU fan is so big and heavy that it somehow caused internal damage to the CPU...? https://i.ibb.co/gPyGvt3/20220218-085844.jpg Never done RMA directly to the manufacturer like this before. Will they send me a shipping label to send the CPU in or would I have to pay for shipping myself? Would they send a replacement before or after checking the CPU? How long would this take? I had to return the 5600XT at first because of driver issues. And now this with the CPU. I'm getting a little suspicious of AMD now... Is it common for CPU to break like this? I didn't send the pictures in my RMA form. Will they ask me when they contact me by email? Appreciate any advice and input!

I managed to take it apart until this point. One more screw still stuck, trying to get it out, and not sure how to unplug that wire or just leave it. I am still more concerned about the front screen anyway. If I take off the last screw, will I be able to take of the bezel? There's a piece of tape underneath...?

This monitor quite old, but my brother bought it new last year and gave it to me. So it's been used only a year. I can't believe it's that hard and expensive to just take out the screen for a quick clean up. It's not like I am replacing it.

I have an ASUS MX279 monitor. I squashed a bug that I saw crawling on my computer screen. Turns out the goddamn bastard was inside the screen, not outside. And now there's a very annoying spot on the screen. I tried watching some tutorial videos on how to take apart my monitor but still couldn't understand how they did it. I tried to follow the steps but I was worried that I might have done something wrong. Here is how the monitor looks like: https://i.ibb.co/n7GkwcZ/20210911-230239.jpg https://i.ibb.co/dLCMSQb/20210911-230219.jpg https://i.ibb.co/yWX6wx3/20210911-230143.jpg I tried to use a screwdriver to open the bezel, but I found some broken parts inside. This can't be normal, right...? I stopped before I could cause anymore damage. https://i.ibb.co/8XqjPjJ/20210911-230543.jpg Sorry if the pic isn't clear. Stupid phone decides to act up all of a sudden. These devices hate me. https://i.ibb.co/vqqCk5M/20210911-231126.jpg What should I do to take out the screen? Continue to pry open the bezel? Thanks in advance for any help!

@Biohazard777Lol. I meant, I could think of nothing that could have caused a spot like that. There was no food or drink near the spot. I mean, you could tell how high it was, right? XD @tikkerYep. Tried cleaning both sides. Felt nothing. I thought of using windex or soap, but I was afraid it could have made the glass look worse. I think it's actually acrylic... It's not gonna get worse, is it?

Depends on the price. If the 16 is cheap, get it. If not, don't even bother. You might see like a 10% difference in performance, if I recall correctly, but it's really not worth the $20 difference. Save it for something else.

Just started to notice this strange spot on my case's glass window. No idea what it is, but I'm sure it's very recent. Nothing could have caused it, either. When I touch it, both inside and outside, I don't feel anything, just the glass's surface. Tried to clean it, but nothing came off. Anyone knows what this could be and how to clean or get rid of it? Thanks!

OK. Update: I went into NVIDIA control panel and set the max limit frame rate for OBS, PS1, and PSP to 60, then set the common fps in OBS back to 60 again. Miraculously, Mega Man doesn't have slowdowns anymore. But Tekken still has hiccups. I still have yet to test the other modern games, like Vanquish or DB Fighter. Not sure how this worked, but, welp, it worked, at least for now. Ah, I also switched to VBR, 60k to 300k. Also took screenshots of the task manager's performance. I think this was after I watched a recording. Not sure what that spike is... And this is when I was still recording another Tekken video. I don't know if the other games will be like this or not. Let's hope not. Do I have to set the max frame rate for everything in NVIDIA control panel? Update again: I just recorded a gameplay video of DB FighterZ with no lag! Everything ran smooth at max settings! So, this is clearly an issue between OBS and emulators. There's no way my computer can handle a modern game and not some old games. Well... at least the problem is not as bad as I thought.