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DinckelMan

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About DinckelMan

  • Birthday Nov 23, 1994

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    DinckelMan
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  • Twitter
    @dinckelman

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tempe, AZ
  • Interests
    Gaming / Music / Anime / Cars
  • Biography
    A computer science student with a passion for gaming, anime, and guitars!
  • Occupation
    Full-time student
  • Member title
    Junior Member

System

  • CPU
    i7 6800k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Gaming Pro Carbon X99A
  • RAM
    HyperX Savage 16GB@2400
  • GPU
    GTX1080 + GTX680
  • Case
    Enthoo Evolv ATX
  • Storage
    Samsung 960EVO + 850EVO + 6TB Barracuda
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860
  • Display(s)
    Dell U3415W + U2515Hx
  • Cooling
    Corsair H105
  • Keyboard
    Razer BlackwidowX
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga Chroma + Deathadder Elite
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD650 + Schiit Vali 2 + Schiit Modi 2 Uber
  • Operating System
    Arch Linux
  1. I've been getting the same error lately, but the background of the issue is completely different from the OP. I've had my 3930k overclocked to 4.5 for 3 years straight and after that i've started getting CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT all of the sudden. At first it was once a week, but now if i try to set my overclock back to 4.5 my PC crashes in under 5 minutes regardless of what i'm doing. Turning the overclock down to 4.4 helped the issue significantly and turning it to 4.3 removed it completely. What could have happened in the past year that made it unable to run at 4.5? Since i've started using Windows 10 (including pre-release and insider versions) this issue has been happening a lot more often on higher clocks Here's a CPU-Z screenshot
  2. Powerline adapters are not an option due to me not having them and not willing to invest in them. I've tried the 5GHz connection, but i still gets speeds that aren't even half of what it's supposed to be. The PC is ~10 meters away from the router with a wall between them btw
  3. I have a 80/40 fiber connection at home, but for some reason with I'm connected to the 2.4GHz WiFi with my PC (Asus N53 network card installed, no on-board WiFi), i only get 0.26/0.24 speeds maximum. This affects only this PC. Router - TP-Link WDR4300 Any ideas? Edit: After messing with the settings a bit, i started getting 2.5/2.2 on the 2.4GHz connection, which is still nowhere close to what I'm supposed to be getting. On the 5GHz i'm still getting 15/15 on average
  4. Update: It looks like the issue was happening because of a mouse USB cable that shorted out. Still testing the PC a bit, but it looks like that was it. Thanks for suggestions everyone
  5. So i've double-checked everything. No ports are bent/broken and it looks like none of them are touching anything that they shouldnt be touching. Plugging back the front panel headers does not change anything. When no devices are plugged in - everything works. When i start plugging stuff back (front or back panels) it stops working for some reason. Sometimes i can get random combinations between headset/mouse/heyboard to work, but I dont see any pattern here whatsoever
  6. Unfortunately i can't take a look at the board myself cause i live far away, i can only ask the person to do so, but he doesn't know what to look at and etc. What i'll try to do is disconnect everything from the back ports and try to connect them to the front one.
  7. Could it be that the PSU or the Mobo just broke all of the sudden? it's 8 years old, which is a lot
  8. I have a problem with my old PC, and not really sure what to do with it. It has an old Asus P5QL-E mobo and since yesterday i havent been able to use it cause every time i turn it on it gives me the following: "USB device over current status detected. ~~~ will shut down in 15 seconds" I've tried unplugging all front panel connectors (except power button) - no change Tried unplugging all USB devices - it boots fine, but when i connect my devices back either 1 or none of them work. Any ideas?
  9. Did you guys even read the main post? I have 500$ HD650's, which sound worse on my setup compared to how they sound on proper setup. Headphones dont get any better than this
  10. That is true. Not the best, but does the job. On other note, i tried plugging it into an ASUS Phoebus with no additional amplification settings in the software. Exactly the same results. I'll do some more research, as well as wait for more answers here and make the decision
  11. Hey everyone. I currently have a setup with following things: Headphones - Sennheiser HD650 AMP - Musical Fidelity X-Can V3 Audio Source - Asus P9X79 Deluxe The sound is relatively good, but i know how the headphones sound on proper hardware, and compared to that my results are AT LEAST disappointing. The question is this. Should i buy a DAC and do i even need it? I'm currently looking forward to buying Schiit Modi 2 Uber
  12. Can you explain in a bit more detail how to recover it? From what i see in the page it "should" be applied automatically, but my version does not match with they key, so there's no way thats gonna happen Edit: I found in the program linked before. ACPI Table - MSDM - there it is. Thanks everyone!
  13. Hey there. I bought a laptop, MSI GS60 to be exact, just about 10 months ago. I came with a 'One Language Windows 8.1", which might not sound that bad, but it was a completely retarded choice to me, considering that the language i got with it i had no desire to see anyways. The question is following: Is there any chance of me recovering the key for that windows copy, knowing that i dont have it installed anymore and there's no Windows code sticker on the bottom of it? Is it possible that MSI keeps track of this?
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