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SpodermanBR

Member
  • Content Count

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About SpodermanBR

  • Title
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brazil
  • Interests
    Spiders, biology, ecology, zoology, gaming, hardware, technology, android, PCs...
  • Biography
    Biology student with enthusiasm for tech.
  • Occupation
    Undergrad full time, weekends admin on local store

System

  • CPU
    i5-2400 - PC
    i5-3337u - Laptop
  • Motherboard
    ASUS P8Q67M-DO BR - PC
    Dell 0VKD5N - Laptop
  • RAM
    12Gb DDR3 1333MHz - PC
    8Gb DDR3 1600MHz - Laptop
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX970 SC ACX 2.0 OC @ 1465MHz- PC
    Dell GT730M OC @ 860MHz - Laptop
  • Case
    None
  • Storage
    2x Barracuda 320Gb 7200RPM - PC (had a 1Tb one which failed due to old age)
    1x 500Gb Samsung 7200RPM, 1x 320Gb Samsung 5400RPM - Laptop
  • PSU
    Coolermaster Masterwatt Lite 600W 80 Plus White - PC
    Dell 90W charger - Laptop
  • Display(s)
    Sony Bravia 46" 1080p 60Hz - PC
    Dell 14" 60Hz - Laptop
  • Cooling
    Coolermaster Blizzard T2 - PC
    Homemade coolerpad 2x 80mm fans - Laptop
  • Keyboard
    HP standard (2018) - PC
  • Mouse
    Dell standard (2015) - PC
  • Sound
    Built-in speakers - PC and Laptop
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Dell Inspiron 14R 5421

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  1. Oh yea, it's an older laptop HDD (I'm thinking 2013), still faster than most laptop HDDs I've had though. I'm not accustomed to high storage speeds other than my UFS 2.1 smartphone, my PC still runs 2 HDDs at 7200RPM. Where I live (Brazil) the cost of basically anything is rather expensive and electronics is much more expensive than usual (abusive taxes and whatnot), so when I built my system I focused more on the essentials, which were still used parts and cost a bit over 2x the minimum wage. I'm currently looking to sell my CPU/RAM/MOBO kit for cheap and get a newer Ryzen one, but I'm struggling find good deals in quarantine. Ok, so I'll keep this running with a little bit of RAM allocated to the disk corresponding to the game. My laptop has 8Gb 1600MHz DDR3 and I usually don't use a lot, plus, I still manage to get little over 50fps on Destiny with settings on low, that's fine by me I just want to have this as an option when I'm on university and have some free time. Impressive, I've only got 12Gb on my PC, as I mentioned in the beginning of this reply, I'm trying to upgrade my kit and currently thinking of getting 16Gb RAM on my next one. I think it's enough for most games and while I may have to do some analyses and statistics for future science stuff, I've done it before with 8Gb and it worked out fine. Anyway, thanks for all the replies, I guess this bags up the question.
  2. I enabled defer-write to test the higher write speeds, but nothing different and I'm running on a laptop so power loss isn't a big issue. But the question remains, why does Destiny 2 have a difference in load time?
  3. Ok guys, so I recently came across Primo RAM Cache which sounded a bit whacky to me (it was advertised to me by a random youtube video) I got the trial version and tested it out. Turned out it did reduce load times in some games (Destiny 2) when I had it running with around 512mb allocated. So I went and did some tests on CrystalDiskMark "real world performance" profile. It seems a bit off to me... Check this out, this is it with RAM cache (640Mb on disk C:, and some other smaller amounts on the other partitions, its a 2 HDD setup with 2 parts on HDD1 and 1 part on HDD2) Now this is it without the RAM cache running Testing a file transfer from HDD2 to HDD1 without the RAM cache gave me around 55MB/s (windows explorer MB) peaked at 75MB/s for some seconds and dipped at 28 twice, 12gb file. Now with the RAM cache active in both HDDs... Less speed but more consistent at 50MB/s, while having peaks at 66MB/s and dips around 48 minimum. Can someone tell me why Destiny 2 load faster with the cache on and the transfer rate is still more or less the same? Without cache when I double click the icon it takes 30 seconds to open, 1 minute to get to the logo screen (where you press enter) and 4 minutes to get to my character screen. With cache its 30 seconds to open, 44 seconds to get to the logo screen and 1 minute and 20 seconds to get to my character screen. Tested it three times and the results vary by 1-2 seconds more or less.
  4. Hello all, I've been a PC gamer for little over 12 years now, always on a budget since where I live the price of electronics are absurdly high and I never wanted to burden my parents with expensive stuff. So my PC never had any RGBs or any really expensive parts, only the necessary. That includes SSDs, recently I had the opportunity to get a used SSD in exchange for an LCD monitor I had laying around my house for two years (unused since I got it, basically brand new). The SSD was 100% healthy according to CrystalDiskInfo, it's a SanDisk PLUS 120Gb (dram-less, but I don't think it's such a big issue coming from HDDland), and had little over 2TB TBW(?) out of 40TB. So I get to my house after exchanging it and it shows as "removable disk" when Windows boots. Tried formatting and still not showing as a usable disk, I'm basically going to use this guy as a boot drive for my laptop, so I won't be writing a lot of stuff to it. I'm going to buy another one for my PC later on, but it needs to be bigger since I'll use it to play games. I got all my parts used a couple of years back, so I know the risks of used stuff, my PC has an i5 2500K, 12Gb DDR3 and a GTX970. It still kicks ass in 1080p and that's enough for me. I've never had any real issues with used parts, my laptop and phone are also used goods, my laptop was the most recent purchase and it was real cheap compared to others with same specs. So I just want to upgrade it with an SSD for bigger convenience. I'll have the SSD as boot and a 500Gb HDD for storage (this one is even 7200 RPM, which was a surprise for me, all my other laptops had 5400 RPM HDDs). Ops, forgot the punchline. Has anyone had this issue before? I tested the SSD on the guy's PC and it worked fine then. But now my Windows recognizes it as a 111Gb drive but simply can't use it. Maybe it's because my hardware is older? Or maybe not because I tested it on my newer laptop and still not working. Edit 1: Ok so I'm not sure WTF is going on. I even checked the PCB for any physical damage, and nothing, it looks brand new. When I run Disk Management it showed the ssd with three healthy partitions and one of them being RAW (I couldn't do anything with these partitions) I tried to format them via Gparted, Diskpart and Disk Management Tool; none had any success. I was trying to download SanDisk Dashboard but was not successful until I found an older version and managed to install it and update to the most recent. When this happened It scanned and showed the SSD with 98% health and the partitions that DskMgmt showed before... I managed to clean it with the "Sanitize" option, it now shows 111Gb unallocated, but nothing can be done with the drive. I can't create partitions or format it to NTFS via DiskPart or anything. Gparted gives me "fsyncing/closing /dev/sdc input/output error" when I try to create a GPT partition table or format the partitions that were there and DiskPart gives me "Cyclic Redundancy Check". A few moments ago I rebooted and the Dashboard App shows the ATA security as "Frozen". Is there any way for me to maybe flash an older firmware or the same firmware to make sure it's not a firmware problem? As follows, these first screenshots were taken before I managed to sanitize and erase the disks partitions: The three partitions on DskMgmt Diskpart showing all partitions and the main RAW part. Now after sanitizing: Dashboard showing it as 98% healthy, without any partitions and "Frozen" ATA security. CrystalDiskInfo stats, I had forgotten to upload the first screenshot, so I took another one after sanitizing. If anyone has any idea as to what to do with this little guy... I saw 4 chips on the PCB (2 on each side) and one SanDisk controller, I also saw some contact pads, maybe there's a way to manually "reset" the controller or something. I'm no electronics expert and as my experience with SSDs have been null and void so far, I'm not sure if this is a possibility, like the little pads in smartphones that you can use to enter a recovery mode or something of the sort... Anyways, kudos to whoever helps me out on this! I'll keep on digging by myself here. But there's a limited amount of info you can find with a limited amount of knowledge on something. Edit2: Ok so I came to a conclusion. This SSD has been bricked so hard that all of his blocks are bad. I'm running a Erase Test on HDDScan and it's reporting bad blocks since the first one and it's been over 25k of bad blocks. I'll finish the test but I'm not really sure if it'll turn up anything different. Anyhow, I contacted some local stores about SSDs and I'll be getting a 480Gb Kingston for an affordable price. But I still need to save up 3x what I have now.
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