Frostbite Cinematics

The mouse works fine on my PS4 and older PC, and it only has these issues on my new PC.

So I've had my new PC for just two months now, but for about half of that time, my mouse has been having issues where the cursor will freeze for 2-3 seconds, and then will snap to where it's supposed to be had it not disconnected. This only happens with one mouse to my knowledge (I'm using the Fnatic Gear FLICK Gen 1). Some important things I should probably note: - When the mouse disconnects, the RGB lights will turn off. They turn back on when the mouse catches up with itself I guess. Though rarely, the mouse will disconnect and stay off, and I'll have to unplug and plug it back in to connect it again. - The issue is only with this PC. On my older PC and PS4, this issue never happens. The same mouse works perfectly fine. (minus a small issue where a single click registers as a double click sometime, but I don't know whether that issue is also limited to my new PC only, or whether it happens on any device.) - I've tried changing USB ports, but the issue still happens. - This only happens with this mouse. - I have tried reinstalling mouse software and firmware many times, but nothing seems to fix it. I also search for my mouse in Device Manager and update drivers, but I am told I am using the latest ones. Any idea what could be causing this issue?? I have a really cheap mouse that I'm using right now since it works, but I don't want to have to replace my gaming mouse if a new one will also suffer from the issues. Given that my Fnatic mouse only has issues on one PC (and no other devices, AFAIK) I am worried that this could be a PC issue to rather than being solely an issue with the mouse. Any advice is much appreciated.

An update to the thread: So I underclocked the CPU from 1.400v (default) to 1.25v using MSI Dragon Center. Still getting very promising frame rates after testing Battlefield V at Ultra, with and without DXR enabled. Since my current monitor is only 60Hz, I ended up locking it to 60 FPS with V-Sync and the in game framerate limiter. Even with DXR enabled and V-Sync off, my CPU barely hit 65 degrees; a massive improvement on the previous 80-85 degree mark it was hitting. This is with an adjustment to the fan curve of both the CPU cooler and case fans. They're no longer at default values, and I raised them up quite generously (for my PC, not my ears :P). The results are pretty promising though. The sound isn't so bad with earphones/headphones on. I'm going to keep testing a little more before going into the UEFI and inputting my settings in there. Maybe try increasing the voltage a little more to 1.3v, changing the fan curve a little so it isn't as loud, etc. Seems like a good start though. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get my fans to work constantly on my GPU, because it has a feature where they only ramp up after hitting a certain temperature. Personally I would rather have them on at all times though and adjust the settings myself, but that's another topic I'll have to look into when I have time.

Hmm. I'll give that a look into. Thanks

I spent some time in the UEFI just to be sure. CPU pretty much stayed at a consistent 1.400v and was at a consistent 39-40°C the entire time. I've found a few places online now that seem to say undervolting to anywhere between 1.25v-1.375v is a good idea since 1.4v can often make it get hot too quickly, but I thought I'd check here to be on the safe side.

So my new PC is finally built (thanks to the people here on the forum who gave me advice when purchasing and assembling ), but I think I'm having issues with temperatures when I shouldn't be. I'm running a Ryzen 7 3700x with no overclock and am using the stock cooler (Wraith Prism). I kept all of the fan curves at default in the UEFI, and the only thing I really changed in there was the XMP profile for my RAM (32GB at 3200MHz). Perhaps XMP is having an effect on it, but I can't tell yet. I downloaded a couple of games to my SSD for testing and got some pretty nice framerates at 1080p, but always ended up enabling V-Sync since I am using my old 1080p60 monitor for now. I tested GTA V (max settings) last night, and Battlefield V today (max settings + DXR on at ultra), but after about 15-20 minutes, my PC seems to overheat and reboots automatically. After checking in FPS Monitor, my CPU was hovering around 80 degrees in both games. I even set my graphics settings in BFV to the lowest possible (except for DXR, which remained on since I didn't want to restart the game whilst setting my keybinds), but the temps didn't drop and the PC rebooted. For now I have just adjusted the fan curve of all my case fans (3 intake and 1 exhaust) + CPU cooler so that they run a bit faster than default settings, even at lower temperatures. I have yet to test whether this helps out or not in games. I figured I'd ask about this here though since I'm still not really knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff. Should adjusting fan curves be enough to solve the issue? If so, any recommendations on what my curve 'should' look like? Should I potentially underclock my CPU a little (pretty sure I'm still running stock settings but with XMP on)? I saw a post earlier where OP said his 3700x is at 1.35v or something and that it shouldn't be any higher. With XMP on, I believe I saw mine go higher than that (around 1.4-something volts when I was first setting up my PC and was in the UEFI). I think they said that theirs was at 1.4v too at stock, and that it isn't a great idea to keep it there. Airflow should be okay in my PC as far as I'm aware, but I can still feel the case getting warm around the CPU area when games are running. TL;DR: I'm basically just looking for advice on how to keep my CPU cooler and the recommended temps that I should be getting, since I'd probably turn my PC into a microwave if I tried fixing it myself with no knowledge on how to do it properly :P. I kinda just want to play games and run my software without blowing it up in the process. Will try to provide any extra info if it's needed.

In response to BlueScope819's suggestion earlier: I just checked then after figuring out how to disable secure boot on my motherboard. Seems it was already disabled by default.

As far as I am aware, I'm thinking it is an issue with the external drive itself. I haven't noticed any signs of my PC being the cause. Just not entirely sure what is wrong with it.

Here's the drives connected to my old PC. (C:/) is my main 2TB from my old PC, RECOVERY (F:/) is where my boot recovery media is stored, and (G:/) is where I had the image of my main C:/ ready to transfer to my new PC, but I ended up formatting the G:/ drive earlier on to see if that sorted anything (it didn't). But the drive still works on my old PC. Just isn't being recognised by my new PC. But my new PC has been able to detect all of my other drives such as the internal HDD, NVMe and the RECOVERY USB stick.

I'm pretty new to PC building and never messed around in the BIOS or anything on my older PC. Where can I find the option to disable it? UEFI?

[ The following is a copy/paste of something I wrote earlier but accidentally wrote it as a reply in a topic instead of just making my own, so here goes: ] In short, my external HDD won't appear in the boot menu of my new PC, wbut will appear just fine on my old one. Longer version ahead. I created a bootable media in Macrium on a USB stick, and imaged my internal HDD of my old PC to an external HDD so that I can then transfer it to my new PC's internal storage. I followed this video here: I have an image of my HDD on my external drive, but when I boot from my USB stick and go to find the image file, my external HDD doesn't show up as a connected device. I have tried plugging it into different USB ports on both the motherboard and case IO, but nothing. Though when I connect the drive to my old PC and boot properly into windows 10 from my old HDD, the drive appears and I can see my image file. But I end up getting a notification asking me to scan my drive for errors, or something. But when I click it, nothing seems to happen. Does anyone know a way to get my external drive to show up on my new PC when booting with Macrium? I can't seem to get it to detect, and I don't really like the idea of the other option, which would be to reinstall Windows from a Windows 10 media creation tool and just redownload everything from scratch. Disk imaging seems way more convenient for me, at least when I can get it to work. Any help is greatly appreciated. Edit: The external HDD also doesn't appear in the boot menu either whenever I go to select which device to boot from, from what I can tell.

Nearly forgot to ask this here but I am glad I checked. I created a bootable media in Macrium on a USB stick, and imaged my internal HDD of my old PC to an external HDD so that I can then transfer it to my new PC's internal storage. I followed this video here: I have an image of my HDD on my external drive, but when I boot from my USB stick and go to find the image file, my external HDD doesn't show up as a connected device. I have tried plugging it into different USB ports on both the motherboard and case IO, but nothing. Though when I connect the drive to my old PC and boot properly into windows 10 from my old HDD, the drive appears and I can see my image file. But I end up getting a notification asking me to scan my drive for errors, or something. But when I click it, nothing seems to happen. Does anyone know a way to get my external drive to show up on my new PC when booting with Macrium? I can't seem to get it to detect, and I don't really like the idea of the other option, which would be to reinstall Windows from a Windows 10 media creation tool and just redownload everything from scratch. Disk imaging seems way more convenient for me, at least when I can get it to work. Any help is greatly appreciated. Edit: The external HDD also doesn't appear in the boot menu either whenever I go to select which device to boot from, from what I can tell.

Thanks

I'm finally building my PC now and am about to mount the motherboard to my case (Corsair Spec Delta RGB), but I don't know what to do with the washers included in the case accessories. I heard from some forums not to use washers. Some people say to use them. Should I use them for my motherboard (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max)? Or just not bother using them? If I do use them, can somebody explain how to use them correctly? Thanks

Hey all. First time building a PC here, and I'm having trouble with figuring out whether the MSI B450 Tomahawk Max is a suitable motherboard for my first build. I have already bought my GPU (Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Windforce OC) and the only information I could find was that it measures 4cm deep. I'm not sure how many PCIe slots it will end up covering on the motherboard I plan on getting. Can anyone who has ever used the Tomahawk Max confirm whether or not the circled PCIe x1 slot in red would be covered by my GPU? I need to make sure that I have at least two x1 slots available since I have purchased a WiFi card and USB extension card. I'm sure that the green circled slot would be fine to use for one of them. Just need to make sure that the GPU doesn't block the red one since I need the slot. The distance between the top x16 and the red circled x1 seems like quite a bit, so I'm assuming there's plenty of room. Just figured I would check with more knowledgeable people here first. [ EDIT: ] It's probably worth me noting that I haven't purchased the motherboard yet but have already purchased the 2 PCIe cards I need, so I can't check the size of my GPU in comparison to the motherboard myself since I don't yet own one.