RobV1306

Nope. It's all projects. New or old, no matter the footage. I've even loaded projects from before I changed my monitor which I know worked perfectly (admittedly not on a Freesync monitor) and they do it too. Yeah, I'm on the latest version. I noticed the issue first when I changed my monitor out. At first, I thought it was a driver issue or a bug with an update etc but eventually I've narrowed it down to the monitor change. It's odd though because it is fixed from the second I turn adaptive sync off on my monitor. I don't do anything in software. All I do is go into the menu on my display, turn it off and it works flawlessly. Very odd. Any more ideas?

Hey Dan, Yeah, I tried that. No change from deleting the cache. Also no change when reducing the quality all the way down to 1/8. And yeah, I'm running the latest version of the drivers (461.40). Any other thoughts? Cheers! Rob

Is anyone else getting serious issues with Premiere Pro (and other Adobe programs) when running with freesync (or G-Sync) on? I have an issue that when I leave it on and try to play something back, it chugs super super hard. The audio is fine but the video looks like I'm trying to playback 8K footage on a celeron. Anyone else have this issue? And more to the point, anyone find a way around it? For reference, here's my specs: Intel i7-9700k Nvidia 2070 Super Founders 32GB RAM @ 3200MHz 500GB WD Black NVMe boot drive 1TB WD Blue NVMe game drive AOC 21:9 144Hz Monitor All suggestions and help appreciated. FYI, I already use the workaround of turning Freesync off and on on the monitor, which does work but is super annoying, hence why I'm looking for a fix rather than a workaround.

So I've had mine for a few weeks now and I really enjoy it. I've not had anything fancy before - this is the highest end deskpad I've ever had - but I've actually improved with my gameplay since getting it. I use it with a G Pro Wireless and it feels super good with that. Just the right amount of squish for typing at all day too. I recommend it, but I haven't got much else to go on other than £5 amazon special mousepads. Only thing I'd say is that it doesn't come with any cleaning instructions and mine is now starting to look a little grubby.

Glad to see someone who has the same opinion on my IT department as I do.

Hey guys, Sorry to re-invigorate this old thread but since this is exactly what I'm wondering about, it seems foolish to clutter up the forum with yet another topic. I've read through the above, and researched elsewhere, but still can't get a decent answer on why custom loops will perform better (and by this I mean from a thermals perspective). Is it purely because with a custom loop, you can include as many rads as you want to give you the right amount of heat dissipation for you or is there something more fundamental in the design of AIOs which mean that they are simply not as good at extracting the heat from a CPU in the first place? For my intended use, I only want to liquid cool the CPU. I'm happy with my GPU performance and the Founders Edition cooler looks real nice (RTX20 series, not 30 before you all start hating me for being one of the lucky few - I'm not). If I got a 360mm AIO, I can't see any reason why that would perform worse than setting up an entire custom loop with a single 360mm rad to cool just the CPU. Anyone able to demistify this for me please?

Yeah, unfortunately, they also have the systems set up to only use the VPN. I cannot see anything of my home wifi network at all. And if I disconnect from the VPN, it's as if I'm not connected to a network at all. Regards the drivers, this is something I am interested in. When I plugged it into my work pc for the first time, it simply came up and said "I cant use this, you need a driver" or something to that effect. Is there a way of forcing it to use the generic driver in an attempt to at least get some use out of it? Also, please bear in mind when answering this question that if any part of the answer is "open device manager" etc then there's almost 100% chance I will not be able to do it.

That's super helpful. I hadn't thought of that. I'll give that a go tomorrow and see if it works. Thanks Joe!

Ok. Thanks for the help guys. While I understand your sentiment, this might be a case of "you've got to know them to understand". It's an outsourced IT support with little understanding (or care for that matter) about why they're doing what they're doing. They are simply blindly following orders and are not empowered to challenge them when blatantly wrong. It's not that this is a well thought through and reasoned policy, they just never thought of it and now can't be bothered to make necessary changes. I completely understand that they cannot simply allow anyone to install anything on their work PC but it simply doesn't make any sense not to help with a very simple printer driver from a trusted manufacturer. IMO, they simply CBA. Thanks again though. I think I'm against a brick wall and there's no point in even pursuing this any more.

So this is a bit of a strange one to be typing in 2020 (feels more like a 1995 problem) but I'm really hoping some of you can help me find a way around this. I work for a company that is very anal about IT security. Previously this wasn't a problem but since I've been working at home since March 2020, printing has become an issue. Since I am not permitted to go into the office, I can't print to the networked printers there. Well, technically I can but I wont be able to retrieve my prints until they reopen the offices (whenever that will be) and that kinda defeats the point of printing something. I therefore decided to buy my own printer - just something basic. I went for a Brother HL-1112. I was very happy when it arrived and promptly plugged it into my personal PC and tried it out. But the problem came when I tried to print from my work laptop. The problem is that the printer requires a driver. On the face of it, that wouldn't be a problem. However, since my company lives in the dark ages when it comes to IT policies, when I rang the IT support line and asked them to install the driver, they simply told me that it was "against company policy" and that I could either print to a networked printer in the office (not useful as I explained before) or to buy another printer that works with the built-in windows driver (for which there is no list and which would require me to just 'lucky dip' printers until one works at my own expense). I'm therefore stuck, still unable to print. Since there is no method by which I can transfer the files to my personal computer for printing without risking being fired (yep - that serious), I'm now reaching out to you guys in the hope that you can help me find a workaround that will get my printer working with my work laptop. One more thing that's worth noting that has been implied but not stated - I'm unable to install basically anything onto my work laptop. It's simply not permitted. Anyone think of any way to get this to work? Cheers! Rob

Thanks Bob. Not the answer I wanted really but a very helpful one nonetheless. Looks like I might have to explore optical stuff. I was hoping not to have to. Any different suggestions as to how I might achieve my desired setup?

Hey Guys, I'm currently in the process of moving my rig into a new office for the missus and I. However, the office is going to be just that - an office. I've therefore agreed that it's not for playing games and that I'll use our loft conversion for that. To do that, I figure it's best to have the PC downstairs with normal monitors and peripherals etc, while I have the games room set up upstairs. To link the office and the loft conversion, I figure it's best to use thunderbolt 3. However, this brings me to the topic - I want to have 2 separate sim setups made up in the loft conversion which I can switch between. Let me explain a little further. I like to play sim games, both racing and flying and I've built proper rigs for these in the past. Obviously, a racing sim rig is different to a flight sim rig and so will be physically set up in a different part of the room. What I'm looking for here is the ability to switch between the two. If I just had one sim, it'd be easy - run thunderbolt cable upstairs, plug in a second keyboard and mouse, displays etc and then simply use windows in-built monitor switching to turn monitors upstairs/downstairs on and off. So far so easy. But what I'd actually like to do is have a thunderbolt switch (I don't think a KVM is right here since I think that goes the other way - one set of peripherals for 2 PCs, not 1 PC for 2 sets of peripherals) for me to be able to select between the racing sim being essentially "plugged in" and the flight sim being "plugged in". Problem is, whenever I search for thunderbolt switches, KVMs come up. Can anyone give me some advice on products I could use to be able to switch between the racing rig and the flight rig? Any more detail needed, let me know. Cheers! Rob

Yeah, I've actually been using my work laptop with that monitor too and have had no problems. I've had it suggested that maybe the GPU isn't getting enough power at startup but surely if that was the case I'd simply get no signal. I'm also thinking that the boot time may simply be too fast for it to initialise the GPU (given it boots in seconds 'cos NVMe). Do you think maybe adding some artificial wait time into the boot sequence would be a good idea?

I probably should have included this in the OP - it did this even when I was running my GTX 1060. I only installed the RTX card last week and I installed the latest Nvidia drivers then. At first, I thought it was simply an issue with the 1060 but when it did it on the 2070 then I got really confused. This is the reason I'm wondering about some sort of cross talk from the iGPU.

This isn't necessarily a graphics card issue, so feel free to move to the appropriate section of the forum if necessary however I've got some strange stuff going on with my rig on startup which I suspect is related to graphics. Firstly, a breakdown of my rig: ASUS Prime Z390-P II Mobo Intel i7-9700K CPU RTX2070 Super Founders Edition GPU 32Gb 3200MHz Hyper-X Fury RAM 500Gb WD Black NVMe boot drive EVGA 650GQ PSU The issue is around when I start it up. More often than not, when it boots into windows, it starts off with a really low resolution - like 800x600 - everything is massive and blurry. It'll stay like that for between 5 and 20 seconds. It'll then abruptly cut to black, play the windows "dah-dum" sound to signal something has been disconnected and then bring my resolution back to the proper one. I cannot figure this out! I'm obviously running my monitor hooked up to the GPU only, not the iGPU. I can't help but feel it's something to do with cross-talk from the iGPU. Anyone experienced anything similar? Any suggestions? I'm getting close to going full rage-quit on it and simply re-building the thing from scratch with a clean OS install but feel like this is more BIOS level than Windows. Someone please help?