Dr. Dressing

I believe the damage is in the header itself, as opposed to the wire, or the two tested fans. You think that the warranty takes care of that? edit: The company I bought it from doesn't have anything specific with removing any parts, either. And the parts I removed didn't have any form of "warranty void" markings, or anything related.

"support" the fan/board like putting it somewhere safe? I am not really following the concept you're making.

How would you fix that on a laptop?

Alright, off to a great start. From my last post, I was told I should replace my laptop fan, as it literally made growling engine noises. So after I purchase a pair of fans and receive them, I naturally install them. Big deal. Now, thing is - A laptop fan usually spins. And to my surprise, my GPU fan doesn't spin whatsoever. Once again, big deal. I replaced the new fan with the old one, to see if it fixed the problem. However, that wasn't the case. The port that the fan connects to, is making very odd noises. Like it's sending a signal that isn't being received. (A sort of wheeze, except it sounds like static going through electrical lines.) Dell's built-in diagnostics did NOT like this, to say the least, with a prompt that told me the GPU fan wasn't responding correctly. First thing that comes to my mind is this community. And I tip my hat to whoever can tell me what my laptop's problem is. (My PC is a: Dell G3 3579)

Yeah... about that 10 dollars part. Anyways, I discovered, that while the sound is much weaker when it's disassembled, it's still there- Meaning it's not from something being stuck, but maybe the lubricant/blades are bad. Irregardless, I think I have to find a replacement for it - But it's going into the 20 dollar line, including the shipping in most of these I am finding.

I wasn't exaggerating when I said, that it sounded like an engine. Hell, I sometimes hear it change gears and use it's turbo charger.

Here you go, chief. This is best case scenario, it gets pretty loud at times. At about 18 seconds in, I manually raise the RPM to what it does, when launching applications (Not actually during gaming sessions, for instance.) 20200704_032414.mp4

Well, there doesn't seem to be anything in the way. But the fan is definitely wobbling like absolute crazy, apparently. Is there a temporary/permanent fix to this?

I am gonna test whether or not it makes the noise while the casing is open. If it does, then it's unlikely cabling, etc. Because the sound comes from inside of the blades, as opposed to.. Idk, near the exhausts? And it sounds unlikely because it happened before I changed my HDD (in which I had never opened the casing before that.) Update; Yeah, nothing is in the way, and the sound seems to be coming from inside of the blades.

I have a Dell G3 3579 (Very similar to the one in the video. The one in the video looks like an older 3590 model), and it was bought brand new, back in December 2018. I never experienced any problems in those years (Didn't thermal throttle, lag behind from the old HDD [because I replaced it], or in this case - have an engine for a fan) Until (coincidentally) after my warranty went off, one of the two fans started acting up. And I cannot stress this enough, it sounds like an engine (similar sound - ) [Except it purrs when it's idle, and it's driving me insane.] I cleaned it, both from outside the casing, and inside, but it didn't make a difference whatsoever. And case scenario is, that I cannot replace the fan. (For reasons like not wanting to wear off the screws with the disassembly) When I manually spin the fan (With a vacuum cleaner, not by hand.) it doesn't make any noise. Anyone got some solutions? edit; Forgot to finish a sentence.

What if these preinstalled sodimm sticks don't show timing, voltage etc? (Or, that they can't be checked) [Say for instance, that the sticker fell off, etc.] Would it be more reliable for me to get a kit? (Minimize the issues at all cost)- Or pray that I got the right specs throughout the entire preinstalled stick? (Potentially saving me half the price of those kits you find online)

Dude, that's 200 IQ right there.

I want to upgrade my RAM, from 8 to 16 (Since I use 4 GB idle, and 7.5 whilst using a mildly intensive program.) Since I already have 8 installed, will it mess with the memory bandwidth/performance, if I get a different brand to align with the 8 GB I already have? I ask, because it seems like it wouldn't be a problem, but I've heard that some companies just don't like cooperation with other brands, irregardless of the task.

I have a Dell G3 3579, the 15" model. It comes with an M.2 and a 1 TB HDD. I've been getting hard stutters with the 5400 RPM drive, and I thought of upgrading it. Will it improve my speed, if I get a 2 TB SATA SSD, and transfer all the data from the HDD to the new SSD? Or am I wasting my time this way? Speed, in terms of boot time, and stutters/load times in video games. [Looking at you, GTA 5.] Also, What's the most reliable way to transfer 700 GB worth of data? And will my programs [Such as steam] see it as the same drive, if I mark it as the same drive letter? (Locations being the same, etc.) - Or will there be errors? I got it very late 2018/early 2019

But see, now, that's the thing. The graphics card (being a mobile version of the GTX 1050 ti) can easily push beyond the 60hz display. And we both know, that a higher frame rate (not to be confused with refresh rate) with give the screen more updated frames. I've tested similar, but I am considering buying a new one; I put a 2008 TV up to my PC, and ran the tests there. I did a frame-by-frame comparison, and to my knowledge, the TV itself is in fact incredibly slow. Despite being advertised as "75hz", it was 40ms behind my built in monitor. Meaning it gave me no benefit whatsoever. I can't tell if it was because of the old TV, or because of the port. What if we grab a new(-er) monitor? [If anyone cares]; Why is this important? I play competitively online, and the time really adds up after a while. I fixed my internet, going from 40 ms in ping, all the way down to 7 ms. I fixed my mouse, going from 125hz to 1000hz (So that turning fast doesn't mess up the aim.) And I fixed my sounds. So, say we get about 180ms (from me, myself.), 20ms from the mouse, and 16ms from the 60hz screen. That piles up to about 216 ms, just to identify an enemy in no time flat. In a game, that would be incredibly slow. Because we don't shoot in no time flat. We react slowly [and as VSauce will explain,] there's an 80ms "wait" time between your brain identifying whether or not something happened at the same time, from your hands to your brain - and that's at its fastest.