pookeyhead

Can anyone recommend a quality, TKL, gasket mounted plate design keyboard with RGB? Must be customizable in all respects.. plates, switches, stabs etc. Budget anything from $100 to $300 preferably.

Well.. within reason I should have said. Assuming the monitor is halfway decent, it should be able to be calibrated.

Thanks to all who suggested some interesting cases, but I think I shall go with the Dark Base 700 and modify the top panel as a decent intake for a 360 radiator. It wouldn't be the first time I've done this. I did it to an old Lian Li case back in the 2000s as it had no top intake or exhaust at all. If you use a radiator grille externally, it actually looks good too.

I have no issue with that cost whatsoever. I do have an issue of them being completely and utterly ugly though. I know looks are subjective, but I think they are both hideous. The best looking case out of everything discussed so far, IMO, is the RL08, and that is still a strong contender for me despite having a top mounted rad and GPU offering some serious space limitations. Too ugly. I know it's a great case, but seriously... I'm not looking at that all day. The Be Quiet case is the best contender so far, despite that ridiculous top panel design, or the RL08. Both will need some Dremel therapy. The Riotoro CR1080 looked like my solution, until I realised it's cooling limitations. yeah... Dark Base 70 or Silverstone RL08 I think. Thanks for all the advie from everyone though. A couple of cases I never knew existed in there.

There's not really any such thing as a colour accurate monitor. Even ones that are calibrated from the factory (which the above AOC model is not BTW) will drift over time. The only way to guarantee colour accuracy is to invest in a colorimeter and calibration software. Even relatively inexpensive monitors that are calibrated well have better colour accuracy than one that was factory calibrated once it's 3 years old. The other thing to consider is gamut. While a sRGB colourspace display can be accurately calibrated within that colourspace, it will never show colours outside of it. If you are doing colour critical work, then aiming for a wide gamut display is preferable. Bear in mind, that using a wide gamut display to display sRGB colourspace without a suitable ICC profile will result in over-saturated colours unless it has a dedicated sRGB mode that clamps the gamut to that space. Basically... invest in a colorimeter such as the i1 Display Pro, then no matter what monitor you have, it can be accurate. One thing to consider however, is unless the monitor has at least a 10bit addressable LUT that allows hardware calibration, using a software method that basically creates a new ICC profile can result in banding on fine gradients. If you have only 256bits per pixel, and try to expand, or contract that colourspace, then you'll basically have gaps in your histogram. 10 or 12 bit addressable LUTs overcome this issue... software profiling does not. There's a reason professional colour accurate displays are expensive. There's nothing wrong with Stahlmann's suggested monitor... but it will only be as colour accurate as its calibration.. like any monitor is... and "factory calibration" is only accurate for so long. I calibrate my work monitor (Eizo ColorEdge) once every 500 hours, and it has noticeably drifted in that time. After a couple of years or so, it will be a country mile out.

A bit cramped then... yes.. just read the specs. It's a nice looking case though.

That looks VERY interesting! Thanks for the heads up!

Nope... my first post mentioned it The first thing I said was "I'm looking for a decent inverse ATX case for my next build". In fact, you quoted me in reply. The Silverstone RL08 is already on my list, but has GPU limitations if you have a top mounted rad. If you mount the rad at the front, then the PSU shroud makes it hard to get the barbs at the bottom, which would be my preferred mounting orientation for a front mounted rad. I just built a rig for my daughter using the LD01, which is the same chassis with a glass front panel. Again, a bit of Dremel action may sort it. The legs on the 802 just really annoy me for some reason I also like the idea of mATX after building my daughters. It's a really nice size. I think a bit of modification to the RL08 is my best option. Thanks for replying.

While I don't want a "loud" system, no... I am looking for inverse ATX, and the choices are limited. None of the cases you suggest are inverse ATX. Maybe I just take a dremel to the top panel

Steve tests with air cooling though. I was asking about using it for water cooling with a top mounted AIO.

The cost doesn't bother me, it was that design with no top grille for the radiator. Looks kind of restrictive if you have a 360 radiator and high SP fans in there.

I'm looking for a decent inverse ATX case for my next build, and I was considering the Dark Base 700. It looks perfect, but the top panel is a solid metal panel with a small vent at the rear. Despite this, it has a slide out tray to accommodate a radiator at the top. This seems a crazy design... is the top panel interchangeable, or removable? Thanks

Can you explain why? Hardly anyone will be using more than one GPU these days, as SLI sucks. I thought the build for my daughter I just did (mATX) was really great. I had room for a 280 AIO at the top, and still room for a 2.5 slot GPU. If she wants a larger GPU I can easily move the AIO to the front. The motherboard is well featured, and the build was relatively painless. What was it about mATX you didn't like?

Id avoid that. If you emergency brake, or hit something, that PC will just fly forward, and crash into the dash (if on front seat) or the back of your seat (if on rear seat).. or if you are very unlucky, into the back of your head. Safest place is in the boot/trunk, pushed right up against the back of the rear seat. Yes, it will still be subjected to high Gs in the event of a crash, but it will be less severe, and it will only be subjected to one such force. Something on the back seat will undergo severe acceleration, then shortly after by massive decelaration forces as it hits whatever lies in its path. Trunk... pushed way up against the back seat... then pack the empty space in front of it with the rest of your shizzle so it can't slide back under acceleration.

I imagined that would be so. I have no need for a zillion PCIe peripherals, or masses of fast storage, so that should be fine then. I want my next build to be mATX and there's a distinct lack of X570 mATX boards.