CuzinEd

So I was dusting my PC desk and I saw some dust on my monitor cable so I took a swiffer sweeper and cleaned the dust off of it. I didn't unplug it and I wasn't rough with it. But my monitor cut off and wouldn't come back on. My PC was still running even though I could see nothing on my monitor. So I shut my PC off using the power switch on the PSU and unplugged the power cable to the monitor and displayport cable. I then plugged everything back in and flipped the switch on the PSU. I pressed the power button on the front of my case and my PC would post. I looked inside the case through the plastic window and seen that one of the error lights were on. I don't know which one it was but since I wasn't getting a display on the monitor I though it might be a VGA error. The light is so bright I can't see exactly which one it is and I didn't have a flashlight near me at the time. So I shut the PC off from the switch on the PSU and I shut the monitor off which is now working just my PC wont post. So I went and got another displayportcable and a HDMI cable. I disconnect the displayport cable from the GPU and monitor and I connect the other cable to the monitor and GPU. I try to start my GPU and it's the same issue. So I shut down the PC again from the switch in the back. I flip it again to and try to power my PC back up out of desperation hoping it would work and nothing, it still won't post and I am getting an error light on the motherboard. I then shut the PC down from the switch on the back and go away for a while. I was probably gone for about 30 minutes. Then I come back and decide to try another port on the monitor. So I connect the cable to the other displayport on the monitor and it works. My PC will now post and boot with no error lights. Also I unplugged all the USB devices even my printer while doing this, everything except the Keyboard. I even disconnected the wireless mouse dongle from the keyboard USB port This is a PC I built myself. I built it last year. It's not my first build. I built one in 2016 just with a intel CPU. My specs are Windows 10 Home 64 Bit fully updated Asus Tuf Gaming X570 Plus (no wifi) R7 3700x 16GGB DDR4 G skill brand packaging said it works with Ryzen MSI RTX 2070 Super EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 220-G2-0750-XR 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode Storage is 1 4TB samsung SSD and 1 2TB Samsng SSD I thought error lights on the motherboard were supposed to indicate problems with the motherboard. How did changing from one port on my monitor fix the issue? Also has anyone else ever had this happen to them? It's really weird. I can deal with some PC issues but this one is beyond my skill and knowledge? Before I had this issue everything was working fine. I was playing games and surfing the web with no issues. My PC ran fine, I would say even great. I checked all the hardware in Windows and CPUID CPU-Z and it's all there. I haven't been into the BIOS yet though.

I got it to post last night with one stick of RAM. The CPU is recognized in the BIOS. It's an Intel CPU so there are no pins to bend. Before I put it back in the anti-static bag and into the box I took the CPU out of the socket to see if there was any thermal paste in the socket and there was none. I put the CPU back in the socket and it was done correctly. Like I said the CPU is being picked up in the BIOS.

So I got an update. I screwed around with it and tried some stuff. I finally got it to post. But not in a dual channel configuration. The memory kits I am using come in 2x8GB and 2x16GB. They are supposed to be used in a dual channel configuration. The memory slots on the H170 Pro Gaming are labeled as A1, A2, B1 and B2. A2 and B2 would be for the dual channel configuration. When I put the 16GB kit in the A2 and B2 slots it won't post. The little red LED stays on the DRAM. Some times it will jump from the CPU back to the DRAM light. But if I put just one memory module in the B2 slot it will post like normal. I also tried putting a module in A1 and B1 separately and it posted. If I fill both A1 and B1 with a memory module it won't post. So like I said before I have two different kits. A 16GB kit and a 32GB kit. I can install one of the 16GB modules from the 32GB kit and that will give him 16GB of memory in single channel. Is that ok? Does dual channel make that much of a difference? Also after all this I believe the A2 slot is messed up. I don't know how it happened. It was working fine the day I shut my PC off and uninstalled my old hardware to switch over to my Ryzen build. All I did was clean the thermal paste off the CPU, I left the CPU in the motherboard and put it back in the static proof bag and put it back in the box it came in and stuck it up on a shelf. The CPU is still good and the GPU is fine. How the A2 memory slot got screwed up is beyond me. When I built the PC for him I installed the memory the same way I have many times. It sucks, but I don't know what else to do. I can't afford a new CPU and motherboard for his build.

So I am using my old hardware plus some new hardware I bought to build a PC for my nephew. The issue I am having is the PC won't boot. Parts I am using are ASUS H170 Pro Gaming motherboard i7 6700 My old Vengeance LPX 16GB RAM kit MSI GTX 1070 TI All the lights on the motherboard come on. The CPU fan runs. The case fans which are connected to the headers on the motherboard come on. The PSU works fine. The lights on the GPU work as well if that means anything. There is 4 lights in the upper right hand corner of the motherboard and they say CPU LED, VGA LED, DRAM LED and Boot Device LED underneath them. The second light is coming on. I tried looking through the manual for this cause I believe they are error indication lights. So far I have tried taking out the GPU and reseating it. Taking out the RAM and reseating it. I have checked a few power connections. I have tried booting up the PC without any storage drives connected. I tried booting it up with my windows installation USB plugged into a US drive on the back of the PC. I have 32GB RAM kit and I tried that and still it wouldn't boot. That RAM kit is the same brand, Vengeance LPX. Both the RAM kits worked with this motherboard and CPU before with no issues. Same thing for the GPU. I even removed the battery from the motherboard to clear the CMOS. I kept the battery out for 20 seconds. That did nothing. This was supposed to be a fun easy build with hardware I was familiar with. I wanted to do something nice for a family member and so far it's been a big pain in the ass. Almost $300 invested in a case, PSU and SSD. I have no idea what else I could do. I have an R9 390 I could try. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the reply and the links. I will look at them later. I will still look around at the other Corsair PSU's. My main concern was the connection and so on. The G2 is actually the one I am using now. I figured they would be pretty good PSU's. Like I said I want to make sure he has a good one. Thanks for the reply as well.

I have a motherboard, GPU, memory kit, HDD I was going to sell for $350 but the guy isn't interested cause I haven't heard back from him. I made a thread about it a while back. So I decided I will just buy a PSU, case and SSD and build a PC for my nephew who is using his older brothers old crap PC. The parts I am using ASUS H170 Pro Gaming MOBO i7 6700 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz MSI GTX 1070 Ti I was going to use my old R9 390 for the build but I want him to have a better GPU that he can carry over to a new build until he gets better one. I know it's not the latest and greatest GPU but I can't afford to spend a lot of money doing it. The parts I plan to buy for the build. This is the case. Fractal Design Meshify C Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Newegg.com This is the SSD SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series 2.5" 250GB SATA III Internal SSD - Newegg.com Now here is the issue. I have picked out these two PSU's. The first one EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G+, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Power Supply 120-GP-0750-X1 - Newegg.com The second option CORSAIR RMx Series RM750x 750W Power Supply - Newegg.com I want him to have a good PSU in case he decides to upgrade his MOBO, CPU and GPU in the future. I told him I would install his upgrades for free if he decides to do that. I haven't had to pick out a PSU since 2016, that's when I did my first build and I am using that PSU still and it works fine. This is my PSU. EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 220-G2-0750-XR 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode Includes FREE Power On Self Tester Power Supply - Newegg.com With my PSU the fan doesn't come on unless it's under a certain load making it really quiet. It's fully modular as well. I paid about $125 for it back in 2016. I would like to get him one comparable to mine or as close as I can get within reason of course. The issue I am having is the two I chose above, the EVGA is ATX and the Corsair is ATX12V/EPS12V. What is the difference? Will they both work with the MOBO and other hardware I listed above? My PSU is ATX12V/EPS12V apparently. So I guess it would be fine, but I figured I would ask first. When I picked my PSU in 2016 I just looked at the highest rated PSU's on newegg. Are Corsair PSU's any good? I see a lot of people using them in PC builds. So some help would be appreciated.

The computer I am using is right next to my modem and I connect it with a ethernet cable. I have no idea what I would need cause I never had to deal with this issue. I believe they are called wireless network cards? What would be a good brand? Is there different types? Is there a USB solution? The motherboard I need the wireless card for is an Asus H170 pro gaming.

I did. But I figured I would ask some people who might know more than me. I know it's older hardware so I didn't want to ask more for than it's worth like some kind of d-bag on Ebay or craigslist I don't know cause the only AMD card I have ever owned is the R9 390. I believe the 390 was still better than the 400 series of cards. I don't know about the 500 series. I know he said he wants the PC parts to build a PC so he can play World of Warcraft. Which as far as I know isn't that demanding or it didn't used to be. Never played it myself.

It's 4 year old PC hardware. I will just let him have it all for $350. Just as I figured. About a third of what I paid for it all new in 2016. I got someone willing to buy it from me locally so I will run with it. I told him it wouldn't be too much cause this stuff loses value fast. Thanks for the replies and help.

I already have a new build. I went completely SSD with it. I have a 4TB SSD and a 2TB SSD. I don't even need the HDD. I paid $120 for it back in 2016 so I am guessing that $60 would be fine.

So I got this guy who wants to buy my old hardware. I don't want to overcharge for it and scare him off. What I plan to sell ASUS H170 pro Gaming motherboard i7 6700 Corsair vengeance 16GB MSI R9 390 2 TB Western Digital Black HDD Anyone got an idea on how much this would be worth? I never thought about selling it. I don't really want to collect PC hardware. I was going to just give to a family member but someone is offering to buy it from me. So why not?

So for anyone who has the same issue I went digging around on the internet and found this. I am using the same Joystick, a Logitech 3D Pro. It seems having a USB joystick or a controller like an Xbox One/360 controller will stop your display from shutting off. That is really dumb. Why MS hasn't fixed it is beyond me. But that's how you fix it. https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-other_settings/windows-10-screen-wont-turn-off-after-specified/51ede8de-2899-4d0c-a5cb-a45529396d2b

It's not going to hurt anything. It will either work or it won't. If it doesn't work just let it boot back into the BIOS and disable the DOCP. Exit and save your BIOS setting and your PC will boot up as normal.

I had this problem and I can confirm it. Restart your PC and go into the BIOS. enable DOCP. Then save and exit the BIOS. If it's going to accept it your PC will boot up as normal. If not you will hear your PC start up and then shut off, probably a few times. Then it will just go into the BIOS and you will have disable the DOCP to boot into Windows. Then you can either try a manual overclock of the RAM or get a new kit. Some people on here told me that the corsair Vengeance RAM does not overclock well on AMD boards. That the Corsair Vengeance LPX is more aimed at Intel boards.

I tried DOCP with some 32GB 3200MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX. My ASUS X570 TUF didn't like it. It wouldn't let me use DOCP. So I bought a G.Skill 16GB kit that runs at 3600MHz. It's the Trident kind with the RGB. DOCP worked fine with that. It said it was made to work with Ryzen and the OC profile and it does. DOCP is fine and safe. It's the only way you will be able run your RAM at the 3200MHz advertised speed. If DOCP won't work then you have to try and manually OC it. I don't know how to do that which is why I just bought the new kit. That or you will have to run your RAM at the base speed which is 2133MHz.

I didn't even enable PBO though.

I am using a ViewSonic VP2468 right now. It's an IPS panel, and I heard it uses an LG panel which is supposedly the best. It's aimed at people who do image and video work who need accurate colors. Though I just game on it and it works fine for that and looks really good and sharp. The colors even came factory calibrated and I got paper work telling me so. Though I didn't quite understand it or pay much attention to it. I was looking to get an IPS monitor cause they have better colors and image quality than TN panels. I had two monitors before and they were both TN panels. I noticed the difference right away. It is an entry level monitor though, it's 24" and the native resolution is 1920x1080 at 60Hz. It was priced at $300 back in 2018 but I bought it from Best Buy for $250 or so. It has a nice sturdy base and it can be raised and lowered. The screen will also pivot so you can turn it and it will look like a picture frame. You can also access the connections on it easier. That's what I used it for. It also has VESA mount so you can attach one of those arms that you attach to your desk. It's available on Amazon for $230. On Newegg it's $250. Best Buy has it for $230 as well but it says sold out. https://www.newegg.com/viewsonic-vp2468-23-8-full-hd/p/1B4-009M-00024?Description=VP2468&cm_re=VP2468-_-1B4-009M-00024-_-Product&quicklink=true

I usually set my monitor to shut off or sleep after 20 minutes in the windows power management settings. The one where you can choose when to put your computer in sleep mode and when the display shuts off. It was working fine a day or so ago. Now it won't shut off. I usually just leave my PC on all the time and let the display shut off. I have never used sleep mode. I have had this happen in the past with other PC's but usually it eventually starts working again. I don't know an actual fix. My monitor has something called auto power off and sleep mode. Both are turned off. It's a ViewSonic VP2468. There was a Windows update the other day. I don't know what it was. It might have screwed something up. I have tried shutting the monitor off and then turning it back on. I have tries restarting the PC and even shutting it down and turning the monitor off and unplugging it from the GPU. Nothing seems to work. Anyone else ever have this issue? If so did you ever fix it?

I don't mind Ryzen Master. I use it to monitor temps. I used to use core temp but the temps are usually higher than on Ryzen Master. I am using a Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo as a cooler and I see 4.2Ghz in games occasionally when I use MSI afterburner OSD.

I found a video on how to enable it in the BIOS. I will look into that. Do I need to enable anything else? Like auto overclock?

I found it in Ryzen Master I believe. It's in the game and creator modes. I believe you just switch it over from default. Out of all the videos I watched made by AMD about PBO they never explained how to activate it in Ryzen Master. But I heard that's a new feature for Master.

ASUS X570 TUF Gaming Plus. The one without the wifi.

I have been looking at it for a while and I can't find out how. I know it can be done in the BIOS I believe. Do I have to do there first or something? My CPU is a Ryzen 7 3700X.

Depending on your case you have two options. You can connect them to the fan headers on your motherboard. Look in your motherboard manual and they will tell you where the fan headers are. I have a Fractal Define R5 and it has wires connected to a front panel control that allows me to control the speed of the fans. I just connected them to that. It's behind the door on the front of the case. I can run the fans at low, medium and high. I usually just use the medium setting. It a little slide switch. So if your case has a way for you choose the speed of the fans you can connect them that way. Just look in the manual for the case you have. It should explain it.

I got a few globs on my CPU when I applied MX4 and mounted the Freezer 34 Esports Duo. You seem to be ok. Even if some runs over the side you can always clean it up with cotton swabs, get the Q-tip brand cause they are best. You can also get some of those alcohol wipes. Use alcohol no matter how you do it cause it works really well at cleaning it up and it dries fast, especially with 91% rubbing alcohol. I didn't do the neatest job when I applied my paste. It wasn't really bad. But I did the pea sized dot in the middle and I was going to do little dots in a square near the edges and the damn paste just drizzled all over it. I just gave up and said screw it. So I got one pea sized dot in the middle, one small dot a near the corner and thermal paste drizzled over the CPU. But everything turned out ok and very little ran out. Almost none. I wasn't feeling too well when I did it. I should have waited till I felt better.