Baron_Backdoor

Before i go into the nuts and bolts let me spec out what i have. X670E Hero - BIOS 1303 7950X3D ZOTAC 4090 AMP AIRO G.SKILL Z5 Neo EXPO 32GB 6000MHz F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR CPU and GPU custom watercooled (EKWB parts) So the other night while attempting to play Jedi Survivor the onboard Bluetooth disappeared (not in device manager etc), odd I thought but not a deal breaker and not worth the 2 months i was quoted i would be without the board, anyway my fault finding was as follows:- Applied my clonezilla image of my machine in case it was a rogue update, Image is from 2 month ago when the system was built (clean image OS, drivers and AV) but the device was still missing. Clean build of Windows 11 Pro from freshly downloaded ISO, no device. Reached out to ASUS who said run the diagnostics in MyASUS app but there are none. I had some new fans which i was waiting on installing on my Rads and thought no better time than now, they all connect to a fan controller so all i did was unplug 6 and plug in 6 to the same controller (all noctuas) and tidy the cabling, now the bluetooth is showing again but randomly the PC now just shuts down, no BSOD logs but 6008 IDs in event viewer, to power back on I need to either turn off the PSU and turn back on (Seasonic TX1300) or use the onboard ReTry button. From here i then did a fresh install of Windows 10. Since the install of Win 10 the bluetooth isn't working but the system also hasn't crashed. I'm at a loss and kinda out of ideas so any help is welcomed as at the moment my assumption is the bluetooth is the cause and i should RMA but want to be as sure as i can be.

Hopefully a silly question but i'll ask anyway, I have a new TX1300 PSU which came with a pair of HVPWR cables for 40x0 series cards, they are marked as 600W but only 2 cables to the PSU. Will this be sufficient? I've read that most are 3 or 4 cable.

Ahhhhh ok. So my plan is go 5000D PE rad in roof with t30s then get a new EK S360 for the back with T30s on it then 4 airflow fans, 3 front 1 back (m25 or noiseblockers, a bit of RGB but just to get air in). Or am i being daft and just fit some T30s to my existing PEs?

Ah so the same product with RGB.... I only ask because i can also get the M25s for almost £10 less per fan

Been reading that the Phanteks M25 has replaced the t30 is that right? Any experience of them?

Ah ok i assumed the fitting was tight on front and top (couldn't see an image of the quarter pipe bit to work it out tray). As the ZOTAC WB isn't going from EK isn't due now until Feb happy to spend some time getting this right. Is a pair of PEs overkill for what will eventually be a 4090 and a 7900x3d?

Sorry been away for work (yay for DC moves!!) With the news of a 7900x3d i think a new case for what will essentially be a new build now (cpu, mobo, ram etc) so i'll get a 5000d and flog the define s in the local facebook group. then i'll keep my existing noctuas on the rads and set them on the roof and the mobo tray then get some extra fans for front and back so pure airflow.

Again thank you all for the responses. 1. The PEs are 40mm thick so the front fans are outside hence cutting the front of the case open (Pictures below show front rad). 2. The reason at looking at a new case is that airflow feels hugely restricted in the define s which then leads to hot chipsets, my cpu and gpu are lovely and chill. My thought on the 5000D was rad in the roof, rad on the back wall and that leaves the front for 3 airflow fans. I guess what i'm looking for is a unicorn, i nice mid tower that i can put in an under desk sling which will hold my cooling parts once i can get it back together with a 4090 that isn't £2000!!

Thanks for the reply, the fans at about 60% would be about 35-40ish decibel but its more the tone that winds me up, now how much of that was blowing across the rads i don't know. I'm not precious about RGB.... ok i guess it would be nice to have a touch of colour in the front of the case which was one part of cutting a 360mm hole in the front of it the other being the air flow in the define s felt to restrictive.

Some back story... Back in Oct i said goodbye to my beloved EVGA 3080 Ti after only a year, it developed a fault and after returning it to Germany for repair (I'm in the UK) they advised it couldn't be repaired and gave me a full refund, unfortunately both 30 and 40 series cards are nowhere to be found. So i've now discovered that Zotac offer the same warranty as EVGA in regards to waterblocks and EK has a block coming out in Jan so i'm considering a system rebuild which includes the cooling. I currently have Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax fans on a pair of EK PE 360 rads but i find them really loud even at slow speeds, may moons ago i used to use noiseblockers and i've noticed they now do ARGB ones (NoiseBlocker NB-ELOOP X ARGB) and they where silent even at full tilt, so to my questions has anyone got first hand experience of these? Would they be of use on my rads? Or should i replace the rads? I have these in a modded define s case (front has been opened to improve airflow) but i like the look of the 5000D, would i notice any difference in a change of case other than looks. Thanks in advance.

By TIM I mean the thermal paste (I'm old and sometimes call it thermal interface material lol). I'm trying to avoid buying new kit if the AMD x3D CPUs are coming early next year. The blacking of monitors I only noticed while gaming, checking WER logs showed an Nvidia dll restarting (almost like when a USB device is removed and plugged back in) so at first I assumed windows so rebuilt both in Win 10 and Win 11 just to test but the same behaviour was seen in both. EVGA suggested the PSU and to check the 12v rail which I did and it sat at 12.152v for 5 minutes with no fluctuations. That was when I decided to repaste.

I should also say I've tried a known good hdmi cable on all 3 monitors (they all have been connected via 1.4 DP cables till now) and all PSU cables reseated.

I have an Asus crosshair VIII hero, 3900x, 2 X 16GB G.skill neo 3600, Seasonic prime 1000w and EVGA 3080ti (replaced stock fan assembly with EK water block) which has been awesome for over a year, about a month ago while gaming all monitors would go black but I could still hear and operate the OS (start > CMD > shutdown -r) on reboot display was back, no BSODs registered but DWM.exe errors. I decided to reapply TIM to CPU and GPU and now I get no display a white led on the board and an 02 q code. I'm now stuck as I have no parts to swap in to test as I sold my 1700x and 1080ti after new system was built. And advice is welcome.

Sorry should have clarified my question, are these Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap still a good choice for PE rads or is there a better alternative?

I know this has been asked a million times but why not once more. I started watercooling several years ago and have always preferred Noctua for the fans on rads due to the CFM, I've been asked by a friend to build a PC for him using an AIO which i suggested to replace the fans with noctuas, his reply was "like the noisy ones you have?" I run 6 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap in push on a pair on 360mm EK PE rads with PETG in a Fractual Design Define S (360 in the roof and 360 in the front with a custom front panel), I have the ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero so due to lack of fan headers I have the fans connected to a Deepcool FH-10 into the CPU header. Since he mentioned this I have started to doubt myself so seek the wisdom of the internet to guide me.