pgrommesh

With the LHR broken, it's best to keep running the 3070 TI as you will get about 79 MH now.

I'm using the new release candidate and it's working fine. Brought... 3070TI from 57 --> 79 3060TI from 42 --> 58 3060 from 31 --> 47 In regards to it not mining and crashing, you may need to create a windows defender exception which they explain in detail on their website.

Good to know. At this point, I'm only looking to find what makes the system stable. Default clearly did not. My knowledge of overclocking is a bit lacking with the new age of chips. I tinkered in the bios some, there was some setting to "AI Overclock" or something, which I clicked, it ran some test, and rebooted and is now running at 4.2ghz with no boost, but at 1.1 Volts... almost seems like it underclocked if i'm just gaming. It has been stable for an hour of gaming which has been nice. I'd like to have the CPU clocked appropriately and the ram running at its proper speed, but again with the ram, if I just try to change the frequency to even 3200mhz (and not its rated 3600mhz) it does not post. The last chip I really tried to overclock (or manually clock) was an AMD duron, and it was pretty basic then.

Ya, mentioned it a bit late, but I did flash the bios, it actually became less stable afterwards (I think it was clocking to 4850mhz instead of 4800mhz, hah)

Hey all. built a new gaming PC - Specs are.. AMD AMD RYZEN 7 5800X ASUS TUF GAMING B550-PLUS WIFI CRUCIAL 16GB 8X2 D4 3600 CL16 B SAMSUNG E 1TB 980PRO NVME GEN4SSD CORSAIR RM850X FM 80+G ATX 2021 Scythe Fuma 2 Cooler ASUS TUF 6800XT GPU Left everything as default, RAM auto detected at 2666mhz, left it.. I could stress test the machine and it would run fine, but once I load a game (New World & Warcraft) machine would BSOD and reboot. Temps in the game were 55-60C and under full load with furmark and Prime95 it would settle at around 80C, never thermal throttling. I changed out a few components to test, including GPU(3070ti & 6600xt), RAM(some garbage), PSU(1200watt corsair); nothing would change the behavior. I started investigating the CPU/Motherboard at this point, don't have extras to swap there, but I noticed that it was boosting above its standard marketing of 4.6ghz. I downloaded the Ryzen Master utility and couldn't figure out an easy way to tell it 'Don't go above 4.6ghz' but knew that HWInfo had reported some high voltages (usually it ran around 1.41), and so I set the max core voltage of 1.35v as that is quite tame. Now I can game fine, but the default core frequency of 3.8ghz seems to be all it runs at, it doesnt flex with demand like it did previously. I dumped a few HWInfo logs of 2 crashes into the below spreadsheet incase they mean more to others than me. At this point I'm curious of 2 things... Is it normal for the CPU to clock past its max? I suspect not, and that it is some setting in the motherboard.(I did update the BIOS in this process) What should I do so that I can still have good performance but also be stable. Thanks. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mvz8cfyaX6azT1VtOPPTWY90dGbxZ0qNxe9gB1woLLM/edit?usp=sharing Edit /////////////////// Just to add a conclusion here; I ended up RMA'ing the CPU and the replacement runs fine with all original equipment.

I removed the wifi card & booted, of course it didnt work. I blew out the interface, and I should note that I had previously done lots of dust blowing because ... well 10 year old laptop. I reinstalled the card and windows double booted itself, akin to windows installing a device, upon launch, still in the same boat, device is present but it is telling me to manually turn on the device, which it refuses to properly.

Hey all, I have an old laptop that has been good to me, so in lieu of the trash I've decided to make a project out of it. It is a Lenovo y460p, a 2nd gen i7. I plan to build a case for the laptop and then do something with it, so I have fully disassembled the laptop and all is working properly minus the WIFI. I am running a clean install of Windows 10. I've tried uninstalling the drivers for the WIFI and upon reboot the driver reinstalls as you may expect, but it doesnt allow me to turn it on (see settings, dragging the icon to on does cause windows to think, but it eventually settles back to the off position). There is a WIFI switch attached to the mainboard, but it is flipped appropriately to the ON position and changing it doesn't seem to do anything. The WIFI is handled by a mini PCI Express device that has 2 wires connected to it (pictured). My initial boots I had things like the battery, keyboard, touchpad installed but have since removed them as I don't want it and it is not needed to boot. WIFI did not work with these things connected. Any ideas on what could be causing this? WIFI worked before disassembly. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply's. I will do some trial and error this weekend when I have more free time. In the meantime, I did setup a single gateway with Tier 1 WISP and Tier 2 LTE which seems to work effectively as a failover. I also have found that if I temporarily flip the 2 tiers around, load and connect to the game, and then reverse the setting I will stay using LTE for my games for as long as I don't get disconnected which has been great. Again, Thanks for all the help.

So following some advice earlier this week here I bought an LTE modem, which works great, and I also bought and setup a PFsense router. Currently it is setup as poorly drawn here: Internet works through pfsense device using either internet point and I have experimented with things such as creating a gateway with equal tiers between the 2 devices, or one with a higher tier than the other etc it all functions as expected like that. What I would like is for data such as video (youtube/netflix/amazon) to travel through the wider connection (WISP) and for gaming traffic to travel along the lower latency line. What I believe is the best solution is to make the gateway tier 1 with LTE and tier 2 with WISP, but take a list of ports&protocols and create firewall rules to direct traffic from youtube/video sites to the WISP. The problem is I can't figure out how to setup these firewall rules to do this. Anyone able to help or suggest a better solution, I can't seem to find an example of someone doing anything similar. Thanks!

Thanks for the responses. I did buy the Pepwave LTE router as, this is not the first I've heard they are good in reviews. Once I get the service working I will likely purchase one of those prebuilt machines on amazon: Firewall Appliance, as they appear to be essentially designed for this purpose. I will let you know how it all works!

Hey there, I live in the midwest in the country and receive internet through a local 'WISP' at 25mbp/3mpbs. The speed is fine when it works but lately the connection has been dropping all too frequently and no amount of calling and complaining will correct the problem. I would like to buy some hardware and a 2nd connection through LTE over AT&T's network (closest tower). I have read a few similar posts, but usually people are looking for greater bandwidth, my greatest concern is creating a stable connection as we play online games and connection drops can be quite frustrating. I'm looking for recommendations on a few things: Experience with an LTE service provider such as this? There are many options online, but most are atleast a bit shady, I likely will not use more than 25 GB of data over this connection. A good LTE modem with the option for an external antenna if necessary. Some device to join this connection with my other connection and perhaps create one more robust network. Most traffic would need to go to the other connection as I am using about 450GB of data monthly and no unlimited LTE plan would likely accept that. I do own a Nighthawk xr500 router, which I have been happy with, I'd like to continue to use that for WIFI Purposes, but if that is not practical I can get something new. Budget is flexible, but 100/month for the 2nd connection, and maybe 500$ for new equipment is ideal? Thanks.