AndroidNinja4

Hello everyone. I'm coming solo from Dallas. I joined the discord, but figured I would also post here as well. I'm coming in early to see the city, so I'd anyone is interested in meeting up early, I'm down. Ill be there Tuesday night and am staying close. That is a crazy trip. I don't know how you have the stamina for that. Sounds amazing though. How long is the ride?

Thanks Everyone, My notifications were not set correctly and I forgot to check this. Good to know. I thought things might just happen naturally and making plans before hand probably won't be as known. You know just talking to people and then "hey lets go to this bar...". Will just plan some extra time incase, so I don't miss out. Good idea, I forgot about the discord.

Hello Everyone, This will be my first time going to LTX and I am very excited. Working on booking plane tickets and have some questions from people that have attended the previous times. I was considering booking a Red Eye out on the night of the 30th, however I don't want to miss any shnanagians going on. Is it likely that things will be happening the night of the 30th and I should wait to leave on the 31st? I have been to a few other conventions where random "unscheduled" things happen at night. I don't want to miss out. Thanks for any advice.

Sane here. I had everything set up and went to checkout, then for some reason Google Pay declined the transaction. I had to then add my card to Shop Pay and of course things were sold out. I did get lucky to get a couple of Labs Tour spots, but no Office Tour. I really do hope they add more spots for Office Tours and put it behind something like "Verified Actually Gamer" so they don't sell out in 2 seconds.

I'm on my phone so I can't fully check, but I think it's because you spelt selector wrong here: document.querySelecotr('button').style.background = 'grey'; document.querySelecotr('button').innerHTML = "Play Now"; You did spell it right on the earlier party here: document.querySelector('button').onclick = function() There might be more and I can look later also, but I hope that helps for now.

I should have gave that detail when I was originally posting. Sorry about that, here you go. I will also update the OP as well. All the information is listed below. I am using Overture PETG. Recommended settings from the manufacture are: Manufacture Recommended Settings: Print Temp: 230-250 C Bed Temp: 80-90 C Printing Speed: 30-50 Cooling Fan: On Slicer Software is Ultimaker Cura 5.0.0. Here are the settings I used for this print. I actually had a previous print as well which did not do it as bad. The only thing I changed was the print speed from 40mm/s to 35mm/s. I am thinking having the cooling fan at 100% all the time might be part of the issue, but will see what you all think as well. Quality: layer height: .12mm Walls Wall Thickness: 1.2mm Wall Line Count: 3 Horizontal Expansion: 0.0mm Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Z Seam X: 0.0mm Z Seam Y: 110.0mm Z Seam Relative: "Yes" Top/Bottom Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Top Thickness: 0.84mm Top Layers: 7 Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Bottom Layers: 7 Infill Infill Density: 20.0% Infill Pattern: Cubic Material Printing Temperature: 240.0 C Build Plate Temperature: 85.0 C Speed Print Speed: 35.0mm/s Travel Enable Retraction: "Yes" Z Hop When Retracted: "No" Cooling Enable Print Cooling: "Yes" Fan Speed: 100.0% Support Generate Support: "Yes" Support Placement: Touching Baldpate Support Overhang Angle: 59.0 Support Pattern: Lines Use Towers: "No" Build Plate Adhesion Build Plate Adhesion Type: Raft

Hello Everyone, Trying to see if anyone has had this problem and knows a solution for it. I am getting warping on my print, but it right at the support not on the bed level (see the picture). I know many places said to make mess with the bed settings, but in this case the print it not on the bed, it is on the supports. Also at this time I am trying not to rotate it, but that might just be what I have to do. However, will see if anyone has a solution before I do that. I have printed it flat before with no issues. Thank you for your help. Printer: Ender 3-S1, stock Pint Settings: I am using Overture PETG. Recommended settings from the manufacture are: Manufacture Recommended Settings: Print Temp: 230-250 C Bed Temp: 80-90 C Printing Speed: 30-50 Cooling Fan: On Slicer Software is Ultimaker Cura 5.0.0. Quality: layer height: .12mm Walls Wall Thickness: 1.2mm Wall Line Count: 3 Horizontal Expansion: 0.0mm Z Seam Alignment: User Specified Z Seam Position: Back Z Seam X: 0.0mm Z Seam Y: 110.0mm Z Seam Relative: "Yes" Top/Bottom Top/Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Top Thickness: 0.84mm Top Layers: 7 Bottom Thickness: 0.84mm Bottom Layers: 7 Infill Infill Density: 20.0% Infill Pattern: Cubic Material Printing Temperature: 240.0 C Build Plate Temperature: 85.0 C Speed Print Speed: 35.0mm/s Travel Enable Retraction: "Yes" Z Hop When Retracted: "No" Cooling Enable Print Cooling: "Yes" Fan Speed: 100.0% Support Generate Support: "Yes" Support Placement: Touching Baldpate Support Overhang Angle: 59.0 Support Pattern: Lines Use Towers: "No" Build Plate Adhesion Build Plate Adhesion Type: Raft P.S. (plug) If anyone is interested, I am making 3D printed retro game cartridge's for keychains or whatever else you want to use them for (Gift tags? ). Currently I have a N64, working on this Gameboy Cartridge, and have modeled a SNES cartridge as well. I create the models myself and I can make them to scale or smaller. If you are interested let me know and I can send you some pictures.

Glad it help out and enjoy that memory. Don't forget to enable XMP so you RAM runs at it's advertised speed. Enjoy!

Hey Welcome @TylerIsSenpai! Like @ImperialKnightErrant said, you are not really going to see much difference on those timings. If you would like to see How RAM Speed and Timings work, you can watch these 2 Techquickie videos below. They are form a while ago, but still relevant. Also you can Google for a RAM speed calculator, or here is a link to a very simple RAM Speed Calculator. If you don't want to use the website, Luke (bottom video) covers it in his video at 1:27, but the calculation is: (CAS Latency / RAM Speec) x 2000 = Latency in Nanoseconds. So in your question here is the latency in nanoseconds for both one ones you stated: 3200 CL16 (16 / 3200) x 2000 = 10 nanoseconds 3600 CL18 (18 / 3600) x 2000 = 10 nanoseconds Since they are both 10 nanoseconds, this is why you will not see much difference. I will say though, this does not tell the whole story, so look at the rest of those numbers if you really want to dive deeper into this. Now the bigger thing is how many ranks they have, and its WAYYYYY harder to find this on a product sheet (actually trying to research that right now myself). But ranks are the number of individual ranks (little chips for easy explanation) that a piece of RAM has on it. If the chips are on 1 side then the RAM is Single Rank. If they are on both sides it is Dual Rank. I would recommend if you are getting a 16 GB kit, ensure that it is Dual Rank as it will help. If I find the video for rankings it will explain more, however I don't remember which one it is at this time. Honestly thought you will probably be fine either way. I cant speak to either brand but I would just go with the 3600 as it has a higher frequency. I hope I didn't cause more confusion and hope this helps.

Thank you. Not sure how you found that but it helps out alot. Correct. But it is nice to be able to monitor things in case I need to. Or turn up the fan if I feel like it. 150 watts is nice, but I don't really need it the "I" is nice to have. Will do. _____________________________________________ Thanks everyone for the replies.

Hey @jonnyGURU Sorry to bring this old thread up, but I am having the same thing. I am getting an RMA for my HX850i and have already sent it to Corsair. They determined that my PSU was the cause and are replacing it and my MOBO + CPU. For the PSU They are offering a HX1000, but the lack of the "i" makes it feel like a downgrade. I search on their site and all the HXi series are removed and the only thing better would be a AXi, which I doubt I could get that out of them. Any guidance would be great.

Thank you, that is good to know. Well it sucks, but really not much else to do at this point but send it in. I think the back and forth helped me just deice to send PSU, MOBO, and CPU, not the GPU and RAM. It would just give extra shipping concerns and I already know they both work fine. Thanks for the chat

I know... I agree it does sound like that. Honestly I do not think its the PSU, but I don't have a full on PSU tester to verify, so sadly I cannot fully rule it out. But like you said the run around is real. It is a good question if they actually did "test" it thoroughly though. Since this is a very efficient PSU, the FAN does not stay on. I definitely think your point could be valid. Do you know if Corsair charges if the equipment is determined not to be faulty? Also I guess on the bright side, if it is not the PSU and only the MOBO, that is 1 less thing I have to replace and can just replace MOBO and CPU. This is why I am a DIY person on almost everything. I hate dealing with type of stuff. Just sucks when you don't have the equipment or its very expensive and justifying the cost is hard.

Right, I thought the same thing. To be honest I thought it was a capacitor or something on the board causing the issue. I even hooked up the PSU to my girlfriends computer and it worked fine, however I didn't have it under a crazy load. Sadly, I am not sure what they used. This was not like some hole in the wall shop either, this was a larger professional establishment. I would hope they have that thing that can test PSU's. I think LTT has shown it in a vid a loooong time ago. Attached is what their summary said, and also what the tech told me over the phone. Lets hope Corsair finds the same results that this repair shop found. I wasn't going to go this route, but since the shop said that the PSU was bad and the PSU is under warranty, I guess why not try at least. Worst thing is they will send it back and say "not their problem".

Thanks. Ya I am not sure exactly what happened, but I kinda hope its the PSU because that is the only thing under warranty lol. In this market, I rather not have to fork over the money to replace things. Anyway not sending the GPU and RAM in will also help with less to go wrong in shipping as well.