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Wydrfell

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System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix X670E-A Gaming WIFI
  • RAM
    32GB (2 x 16GB) 6000MHz CL30-36-36-38 (Buildzoid Timings) Corsair Vengence Pro RGB
  • GPU
    Sapphire NITRO+ RX 7900 XTX Vapor-X 3035MHz Core, 2700MHz Mem
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X Glass Galaxy Silver
  • Storage
    2TB Crucial P5 Plus NVMe SSD (Windows 11)
    4TB ADATA Gammix S70 Blade (Storage)
    2TB Samsung 970 EVO (Manjaro - ArchLinux)
    4TB Western Digital Blue 7200RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair HX1000i 1000W 80+ Platinum
  • Display(s)
    MSI Optix MAG301RF 30 Inch 1080p Ultrawide (21:9) IPS 200Hz
    Dell S2719DGF 27 inch 1440p TN 155Hz (Vertical Orientation)
  • Cooling
    Deepcool LT720 360mm AIO
  • Keyboard
    Mountain Everest Max with Kailhua Box White Switches
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502X PLUS
  • Sound
    Philips Fidelio X2HR Openback Headphones
    Samson Q2U Podcast Mic
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
    Arch Linux (Manjaro)
  • Laptop
    Lenovo ThinkPad E570 15.6" Intel i7-7500U 2.70GHz 8GB RAM 256GB SSD GTX 950M
  • Phone
    Poco F3 256GB

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Wydrfell's Achievements

  1. Unfortunately I, so need the RAM as some games i run are heavily modded and require a stupid amount of ram to run properly (i.e. cities skyline with mods goes to about 20+ GB of ram) Thanks for the advice!
  2. Hey all, I have a Asus Prime X-470 Pro motherboard, with a ryzen 7 3800X, and 32GB (4 x 8GB) of G.skill Trident Z Royal 3200Mhz CL16. I am trying to overclock the ram to about 3600MHz or maybe 3800Mhz, but upon checking Thaiphoon i found out that 2 of my sticks are Samsung B-dies and 2 are Hynix C-die, Is it still possible to overclock without any issues? If so how should i proceed? use the C-dies as the base for timings? Since they are the "bottleneck". Any advice would be great! Thanks in advance!
  3. The halos I have is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079RVTXMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 So not the Digital Lux ones im guessing they are not aRGB? I also don't know what connector they have, there seems to be very little info on them even on Phantek's own site... Guess i'll have too look up a few videos and see You are right about the cables, they are expensive... I also realized that i could technically without the splitter cable just try and daisy chain all three of the converters together, return policy is 15 days so if it doesn't work i can always return.
  4. Thanks for clearing that up, My new plan of attack is to buy three Deepcool RGB converters (since they are AURA sync compatible) and connect one to one of the 4pin RGB headers and buy a 4 pin RGB splitter and connect the other two converters to the other remaining 4 pin RGB header via said splitter. Thoughts on this approach?
  5. Frankly I'm surprised that don't have a PCI-E solution, a new thought occurred to me, could i just use a splitter like this one from cooler master: https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-ARGB-Splitter-Cable/dp/B081RVKCG5/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=argb+splitter&qid=1574958411&s=electronics&sr=1-6 In conjunction with the deepcool converter? would that work? Thanks in advance
  6. Actually none of the RGB products I have are fans, the Halos is an RGB plate that you stick on to a non RGB fan to give it RGB, and the rest are for the RGB on my AIO cooler (it's included fans are not RGB) and the RGB lights on my case. Does that change the situation? Thanks so much for your reply
  7. Hi, So currently i have an ASUS Prime X-470 Pro Motherboard with 2 12V 4 pin RGB headers. Issue is, I have 3 RGB components that all require 5V 3 pin RGB headers; these components are one Phanteks Halos Lux, one Deepcool Castle 240EX AIO cooler, and the Phanteks Evolv X case. These are all ASUS AURA sync compatible, so I am wondering if there is a cost effective and simple way to hook them all together and still be able to make use of the Aura sync. I looked into the Deepcool RGB converter, but I'm a bit confused as to how it works, as there are 2 5V RGB ports and one GDV port. My confusion comes from one post I saw where someone with a similar issue stated that there was only on 5V rgb port usable with this converter, Assuming that is the case... what is the simplest way to connect all the RGB stuff together through that one port? Thank you all in advance.
  8. Would they? its such an old board... though it is worth a try i suppose.
  9. Hey Seagate, Thanks for the reply! So I actually noticed that and tried, so here are my results if i switch it to not use dual BIOS mode and set the BIOS to BBIOS, the boot loop stops, but i cannot get anything to display. The motherboard stays powered, but the LED's on my RAM (that on this model i have configured to flash according to memory usage) remain off and the Debug display doesn't show any codes. I did this with just CPU installed and one RAM stick Display output is from my CPU's Intel HD graphics, I have used both the DVI port and the HDMI port
  10. I figured out the issue but none of the fixes seem to work it is in fact the motherboard, specifically the BIOS ICs, I've tried shorting them but the Main BIOS IC doesn't seem to short... For more info: https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/781595-Gigabyte-GA-Z97X-SOC-corrupted-BIOS and https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/697533-GUIDE-Forcing-backup-BIOS-on-Gigabyte-motherboards
  11. So I tried it, placed motherboard on an its old motherboard box, still no boot or post.. ? So confirmed dead?
  12. i guess that's the only thing i didn't do. So if I try this and it doesn't work, then my motherboard is confirmed dead? Thanks for the suggestion btw, im going to try that now.
  13. Hey all, First time posting and in need of help! My PC i built in 2013, suddenly today turns on and off every 3 seconds. I am not able to get the PC to post nor am I able to Boot to BIOS. I also notices that these two LEDs on my motherboard labeled MBIOS and BBIOS keep cycling back and forth. The PC turns on and BBIOS LED would shine, then after a second that LED would turn off and switch to the MBIOS LED turning on where immediately, the PC would shut down and turn back on 3 seconds later but this time with the MBIOS LED on and turning off immediately when it switches to the BBIOS LED. If left on it would continuously alternate between starting with one of these two LED's on and then turning off once it swapped to the other LED. Sorry for the wordy-ness. Thing's I've tried (each step builds on the previous step, nothing was put back): Pulled out RAM ---> Issue persists Took out GPU (both the PSU cables and from the slot) ---> Issue still persists Took out all Peripherals and HDD/SSDs (disconnected both SATA and SATA power) ---> No changes here chief Took off all connectors to the motherboard except, the 4+4 pin CPU and 24pin ---> still no luck Reset CMOS by both taking out battery for 1 min and with screwdriver ---> Nope. Bought new PSU (need one for need build soon anyway ---> unfortunately no dice. Tried to turn on without CPU (apparently this will not allow POST but allow you to get into BIOS??? I read it online) ---> RESUME on and off cycle! Everything i tried resulted in the same exact behavior nothing changed. I believe I have isolated the problem to the motherboard, but what do you fine folk think? Is there a chance at saving this system? I want to give it to my younger brother to play games while i build myself a new system since his laptop is literally falling apart and is being held together by duck tape. My system Specs: i5-4690K @ 4.6GHz (been overclocked to this speed for over 5 years) Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H Black Edition NZXT Kraken X41 MSI Gaming R9 290X 8GB GDDR5 Stock settings 4x4GB DDR3 1866MHz CL9 Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer RAM BeQuiet (old) 650W /Corsair RMx 850W (new) PSU NZXT H440 Case 250GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD 750GB Toshiba 5400rpm HDD from my old laptop All these specs have remained unchanged for at least 5 years. Any insights would be helpful, And thank you all in advanced!
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