JimmyHackers

UK specs, still using one of 4 twisted pairs. one send wire, one recieve wire out of the lot only. phone line signal comes in on the same two wires as internet does and uses a filter to split out the internet signal to router n phone signal to their house phone. Basically hes got a twisted pair coming into his house (good) This is feeding the 4 metersish of untiwsted wire, twin and earth (bad untwisted pairs) which is soaking up all kinds of eletrical noise and muddying up his signal. this is feeding his exsisting house wiring which is twisted pairs which go to his filter and then his phone/router. i had the exact same problem in my house, except we had about 3 meters of untwisted phone cable going from the main in to our master socket. i told him to swap out the crappy bit of mains cable with cat5e at least, and at best, recable it all the way from his main (in) master socket to the main socket in his house with with good cat5e cable. but he wont listen/do it

My friend has about 4-5 meter section of twin and earth (non twisted mains cable) used as a network cable in his garage. its spliced from his master socket where the twisted pairs enter his house, and gets spliced further on in his house to his exsisting twisted pairs which feed his router/phones. it runs quite near to twin and earth cable that is actualy taking mains power into his house n all. :s he has constantly intermittant internet and a bad speed, but refuses to change this peice of cable saying "that wont make f@&k all difference" he says this intermittance is worse on the older (but better) desktop i gave him, than on his newer (but less powerful) laptop he got for himself. (maybe you lot could exlpain that) just wanted some clarification (for him) as to why swapping out that bit of cable would make the world of difference to his internet, please. TIA Jim

hello..... up until a few months ago my wired connction has been rock solid. however the past few months its being dicky. every time i turn on the pc is says no connection for 30 - 60 seconds even after everything else has loaded. also, every now and then (every 3-4 hours) it will disconnect for about 5 minutes then reconnect. i had tried resetting the router numerous time and updating its firmware.....(it was already "auto" up-to date) abd neither has worked to fix it. besides "get a new router" is there anything else i can try? TIA jim

thanks for the spec sheet. IT STILL DOESNT ACCURATELY INFORM OF MINIMUM REQUIRED VOLATGES OR CURRENTS..... it only provided contact resistances (test results) when run at low voltage ranges and current ranges. and a diagram saying 3-5v....that may or may not be for the bounce test the test that runs it at the lowest amps 1mA is at 12vdc.....so is sort of not relevant to its use in a mouse.. none of this this is not the same as minimum spec.....they are sneakily avoiding that stat. seeing as that stat is somewhat relevant in the fact the main use of these switches is in mouses (mice), which almost all run them out of spec (this missing spec)....... just seems a bit sinister at worst....or lazy at best. also seems weird because id imagine if a switch manufacturer could provide that minimum spec with some laboratory proof....it would be the only switch real mouse connosuers might buy. i dont get why they'd leave that money on the table.

i just took a used one apart to have a look inside (note it still worked as intended when multimetered). i suppose a good start for the manufacturers on improving this one, would be to make the whole thing out of the same type of metal.... galvanic corrosion can only be helping speed up this process. other than using some kind of electroplating method to coat it in gold..... i cant think of much else. i have the kailhs on order and will pop one in when this cheaper one fails again.

its been so long ago the ebay records gone..., i cant find a similar listing, no makers marking on the swiitch, just the "0.05a 30v dc" rating on the top it says "H-7.3" ive somewhat realised that if this is due to oxidization.....these switches will of been undergoing it the whole time they have been sat in my one of components draws. meaning they will break "seemingly" quicker and quicker each time i replace them aswel .

if you have a multimeter and can understand an electrical component spec sheet. you can quite easily see that almost every modernish wireless mouse, is running these switches way out of spec.

wetting voltage, or minumum spec voltage and amps. its the minimum rating of volts and amps the switch runs at reliably (within spec) essentially there is a minimum amount of current and amps these switches need to work reliably and predictably. as mouse technology has progressed to obtain increased batery life, large mouse companies will run everything at lower voltages and amps. as the redddit link person has realised most large mouse companies are running these switches WAY out of spec (the low end of the spec) if you combine that they are not running enough volts and/or amps through the switches, with the fact inevitably oxidization will occur over time. you get this exasserbated situation where the switch degrades a lot quicker despite having much higher warrenty/lifespan claims. this rears its ugly head in the form of the intermintant double single click. i guess most "hardcore gamers" might just think they are that "Hardcore" and have worn out the mouse button extra quick becuase they are too "l33t" jokes aside. the only way i could see to really fix this would be using a non oxidising conductive material in the switch instead of the regular metals. or getting linus to put some pressure on mouse and switch manufacturers to make/use better mouse switches? could be another good "bs manufacturers say" video

checked their website.....cant find a link for a pdf of their specs....so tbh i think theyd fail just the same way. basically as the above links n other people research have said...this is a a somewjhat industry wide problem. no switch on the market currently has a low enough minimum wetting voltage.... and this problem will arise again with any switch. the only way i think i could see any improvment is if i (or companies) would take a switch apart and coat said oxidizing parts with gold or silver.... as these metals build up far less of an oxide layer than the copper etc they are currently using. ill give the kailhs a go (they might use better quality metals) but i have a feeling i'll be resoldering again in a year or so

hello..... have a rapoo wireless moouse and keybaord..... was fine for a few years..... then the mouse started double clicking on a single left click. so i desoldered and replaced the switch.....problem solved. but a yearish later it was back at it again.....so again i replaced the switch once more, and a year later its happening again. decided to delve further found this. summary is, switches require/are rated at minimums of 5v an 100ma where as newer mice use way less volts and amps, meaning a much thinnner oxide layer can render them doubleclicky. all of this didnt provide a more permanant solution..... there appears to be no swicthes rated this low..... the only viable thing is saw as a solution was use optical switches.....but i couldnt find a like for like replacement and im not sure if im just not seraching the right words in ebay....

lol, much difficulty encountered. (honestly thought id bricked something) tried the above 1.4v 3600mhz 16 19 19 39 and got a black screen, constant reboot loop with no screen output. learnt where my bios reset jumper was (wish it was a button), didnt seem to help, still kept boot looping with no screen output. i unplugged the main monitor, put it into the mobo display port, got the bios screen on secondary monitor still in gfx card. missed the f2 prompt :S, next restart it loaded the bois prompt on the main monitor through the mobo output, i checked bios had been reset (it had) turn off pc, put main display cable back in gfx card.........starts up normal as anything..... i did a restart and put my bios back to "my normal" and the newish 3000mhz setting for the ram. things back to normal, but damn what a faff. i think 3000mhz is the limit for this ram.

they are crucial ballistix sport....the red heat spreaders obscure the ics i took a pic of the stickers though....not sure how much help they will be.

meh :s spoke to soon fallout 76 crashed at 3200mhz, didnt at 3000mhz, still a nice performance bump though.

well, i had my first go at overclocking ram, twas susccessful (few hiccups) im now succesfully running 1.35v 16 18 18 38 3200mhz (bumped my cinbench a whole 100 points) thank you very much for suggesting to oc the ram, i dont need to spend any money now . questions: I tried 1.35v 16 18 18 39 (accidentlay didnt set the 38 right) 3200mhz and i got a few bsod using cinebench. then 1.35v 16 18 18 39 (Still hadnt seen my mistake) 3000mhz and it ran fine finally, i discovered my mistake and now no crashes in cinbench at 3200mhz whats up with that? can i push it any further? thanks again jim

i have an 8700k (delid 5ghz oc custom water cooled), tuf z390 plus gaming mobo, 1080ti, and currently 16gb (2x8gb) of crucial 2400mhz cl16 ram. the difference between the two kits (described in thread title) at my local pc shop is 2 quid. 40 and 42 pounds respectively. so......my question is..... which should i go for? pc use is mainly gaming, fallouts, mechwarriors, kerbal,