Max1996LTT

31 minutes ago, Needfuldoer said:

F

 

If you're still inside your return window, reach out to the vendor you bought the drive from. If not, reach out to WD warranty support.

Only been 4 days, so vendor contact it is.

Recently bought this brand new HDD online, but haven't been able to put it to use before now...though now I'm worried about the sounds it's making, should I be?

After discussing it with the seller, we've come to an agreement. Because returning it would mean me having to pay shipping and him having a defective drive, I get to keep it. However, I do get refunded the item price and half of the original shipping cost.

24 minutes ago, AI_Must_Di3 said:

Take it out, unplug wires, CAREFULLY, and look at the Sata power and data hookup on the drive, where the wires plug in. Sometimes people break them off and dont realize it and it will power on but wont connect cause the data side isnt connecting correctly.

There appears to be nothing out of the ordinary with the connectors.

1 minute ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

With fitting packing material like what the OEMs would use. 

  Hide contents

 

 

There have been instances where people have received drives from sellers and even Amazon with the drive in its anti-static bag rattling inside an otherwise empty box. 

  Hide contents

 

In my case, it had a single sheet of foam wrapped around it, inside a box where it fit very snugly. Albeit no anti-static bag.

Asking on the off-chance the drive might not be dead, but how relevant is what I've been told, provided it's true? It was used in a Synology prior to the sale, with a low number of operation hours.

It might be me being naive, but I can faintly hear the drive in question spinning normally when connected to power via an enclosure.

3 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

Likely a dead drive. Hard drives are one of the only things you do not want to buy second-hand. It's just not worth it. You don't know if it's been abused, dropped, or used for thousands of hours. Plus if you're buying online, the type of person who would sell a second-hand (not refurbished) drive likely doesn't know or isn't bothered to pack it properly for shipping. Hard drives require specific packaging to arrive safely. 

Just to make sure, what would properly packing entail?

I recently bought a second-hand HDD, but Windows appears to be unable to actually detect it. When I tried to go into Disk Manager to format it, I got the message “The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error.”

I've been contemplating the purchase of a mini-PC on Minisforum, but I'm not sure if it's better to buy something with RAM and SSD or as a barebone. To help me decide, I'm wondering if anyone knows what brand of RAM/SSD are used.

35 minutes ago, SamClan said:

you only switched your RAM sticks? 

nothing else? 

 

Correct.

6 minutes ago, SamClan said:

go back use your old one and update your bios. 

 

Right now I believe it has to do something with memory compatibility 

 

I switched my old sticks in, but the same problem persists.

1 minute ago, SamClan said:

Your CPU fan is plugged into your CPU fan header? 

 

SATA cable is not well inserted but that shouldn't be the problem. 

 

 

When you start your pc does it some patterns? Like fan on off on finally off? 

 

 

 

Btw do you got your pc specs for me? 

1. Yes.

2. Double-checked just in case, it's in all the way

3. Everything goes on for a few moments, before going off, and then back on by itself and so on.

4. Ryzen 7 3800X, RX570, 16 GB DDR4 3200 (this is the new set that came in today), ASRock B450M Pro4

9 minutes ago, SamClan said:

could you please post a picture of the inside of your PC, wanna just make sure if everything is plugged in. 

 

 

 

does your MOtherboard has a LED that indicate the Problem 

1. No such LEDs, sorry

2. Here you go:

Update: All fans are now spinning, but still no monitor image

Resetting BIOS appears to have fixed only the CPU cooler's fan issue, nothing else. Right now, it goes to life, before turning off and back on a few moments later, all on its own

Just now, I switched out my RAM for a faster kit, but after the switch, my CPU cooler fan and the front intake fans don't spin anymore when I turn on my PC.

Nor do I get anything on my monitor.

What should I do?

After further research into these options, I narrowed the ideal case down to Fractal Design Nano S and NZXT H210 based on my case preferences. However, because the latter has a USB-C cable and my selected motherboard lacks the required header, that option is the less appealing one.

Thus, my final choice is the Fractal Design Nano S. Thanks for the help!

On 7/19/2022 at 6:14 PM, 8tg said:

Fractal Design Nano S, Fractal Design Torrent Mini, Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini, cooler master NR200, NZXT H210

 

One last question, I noticed some of those have USB-C among the front IO, though the majority of mini-ITX boards lack the necessary header, so how does that work?

Right now, I'm thinking of either H210 or Cube v1.

2 minutes ago, 8tg said:

Note that I/o placement becomes an issue with basically any modern case, front panel I/o is something really only seen on a rare few cases these days.

I've been wondering about that, actually. Like, why are more and more cases having IO on the top panel?

7 minutes ago, 8tg said:

Are you looking for any particular style of mini itx or just anything itx?

Compact as possible, cube, just a regular tower but 2 slot?

 

 

Regular tower but 2-slot would be best, if at all possible.

For a build centered around a Ryzen 5 5600G, I'm thinking of building a system with a Mini-ITX board and case.

In the case, I'd like the front IO ports to not be in the top panel, due to preferring to avoid dust in ports I use less frequently. I'd also like the case to allow for at least decent cable management.

On account of my preferences, I'd like to set the price/budget aside for now and have that be the deciding factor. Are there any cases you guys recommend?

8 minutes ago, Eigenvektor said:

That's 3440 x 1440, right? At 75 Hz that would be 9.45 Gbit/s. I've updated my first post, you're unlikely to be limited to 10 Gbps. However, I doubt the machine has the performance to use such a monitor for anything other than desktop use. The performance requirements for gaming on that resolution are quite high. 1440p 21:9 is more than double the pixels compared to 1080p.

 

You can use the forum's calculator to determine bandwidth requirements for any resolution and refresh rate you want.

The only game I occasionally play is Roblox. From what I've found elsewhere online, it doesn't seem too demanding.

3 minutes ago, Eigenvektor said:

2560x1440 @ 75 Hz should be 7.09 Gbit/s. I've updated my answer above to be more accurate.

 

8 bpc (also known as 32 bit or 24 bit color depth) is the default (16.7M colors). Unless you have a monitor with HDR or advertised as having 10 bit per color, you're unlikely to use anything else.

Would 1440p ultrawide (21:9) work, you think?

11 minutes ago, Eigenvektor said:

Yes. Actually, it should not. Unless you're planning to use this machine for high-res, high-refresh rate gaming, this is probably a non-concern. I doubt the machine has the performance for it anyway.

 

3840 x 2160 x 8 bpc @ 60 Hz is 12.54 Gbit/s, but anything below that should work. If you reduce color depth and/or it supports DSC you could probably even use 4K.

 

~edit: To clarify: DP-Alt Mode should be limited by the bandwidth of the DP version, not the version of USB. It shares the same physical port, but isn't the same protocol.

The monitor I'm currently using is 1440p 75Hz. While I don't know about the bpc of it, I feel like it should work on paper.

A mini-PC I've become interested in has this USB-C 10Gb port on the back of it.

While it also serves as a DisplayPort-out, I can't help but wonder, would the DP bandwidth be limited to the port's 10 Gb/s speed?