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FireCharge

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  1. Hey guys! I've been researching getting a DAP for a while now as I feel like the amplification and sound quality coming out of my Oneplus 6 is unsatisfying. I'm listening mostly if not purely to local FLAC files, but I think that having an android player or at all having streaming apps available would benefit me greatly, but I'm not 100% sold on that. I've narrowed it down to the Fiio M6 or if I can find one, an x5iii second hand, Hiby R3, Shanling M3s and the Hidisz AP80. Honestly, after reading plenty of articles and comparisons and watching hours of videos on YouTube I'm still really confused. The worst part is that other than a guy that sells an x5iii on the other side of the country (3 hours on train), most if not all local stores don't let us listen to products before purchase so I can't compare it first hand, so I'm looking for suggestions if you guys can help me get a better understanding. Firstly, I mostly listen to rap/hip hop and electronic music, and also pop and alternative - so having warmer sound and a wide soundstage is something I prefer. I'm going to use the DAP mostly with the NuForce EDC or the Tin T2, sometimes with Meze 99 Noirs. Second, if possible, I'd like to be able to use it as a pass-through combo to use with my laptop. Lastly, like I mentioned above, not a must but having android instead of some proprietary OS would be great. Or maybe like the R3 with Tidal Online mode (although being offline would be better) Thanks!
  2. Then should I get extensions or PSU cables? Thing is that the PSU cables have a weird twist in the connector, not sure if it's because of the 8+6 or is it just how it's made. This kinda makes me lean towards extensions but I'm not sure what's the difference.
  3. The configurator has a 6 pin and 8 pin variants, both for extensions and sleeved cables. As I said I currently have an 8+6 variant that I want to replace. Money isn't that big a problem, should I just get new cables then? If so custom PSU cables or extensions?
  4. Hey guys, currently own a Seasonic X850 PSU and using a custom 8+6 GPU cable from Cablemod (not extension). Thing is I'm going to mod the psu shroud I made for my NZXT Phantom 410 soon and add a hole for the GPU cables, and the 8+6 doesn't really look that good. So a couple things came in mind: 1. Can I somehow just cut the 6 pin add-on and keep the 8 pin? Is it safe? 2. If not (technically if so as well), should I pick up extensions or just sleeved cables? Frankly I'm leaning towards the extensions because the sleeved ones seem to have extra cables for some reason (I.E. several connectors leading to one specific connector, which is bugging me) Thanks for the help!
  5. Having an issue with my brother's internet connection speeds; Currently we don't have an option to run wires from my room with the router to my brother's room and we've already tried several options for connecting him to the internet: Tried homeplugs (which went down terribly with him reaching about 1-2Mbps on average on a 50Mbps subscription), currently running on WiFi through an extender which gets to 7-12Mbps on average depending on load and whether he closes his door or not (he's kind of noisy so we urge him to close it even though it hurts his game play) Any better ideas? We thought of adding another router to the same network or getting another subscription altogether for his pc alone but we don't know what to do. Thanks!
  6. It is stable on 4.3. The only problem is BF1's insane CPU usage. Worked totally fine in Watch_Dogs 2 and aida64 stress test. Gonna try a couple fixes for the BF1 bug and then OC.
  7. Currently running my 4670K at stock speeds (for some reason boost was disabled since I just went and re-set the clock speed back to default but forgot to re-check boost). Using the CM Seidon 240M with 2 noctua NF-F12s in pull inside an NZXT Phantom 410 (front 2 NF-P12s and rear stock 120mm fan, Palit super Jetstream 1080) I’m getting ~35C idle at room temp 25C and about 55-60C at full load (aida stress test) Tried OCing it to 4.3 on 1.28 I think (don’t remember, was over 1.25), which was mostly fine (idle ~40-43C, load ~70-73) but it kept crashing on me in BF1 (lowest settings, had a 770 back then) – bluescreened at 100% usage, though such thing did not happen during stress-testing using aida back then. Question is – thinking of going back to 4.3 now that I have a better GPU (which should hopefully cope with BF1 at 2K 144 Hz), CPU temps at idle seem a bit too high; What should I do? Thought about refilling the AIO/replacing it altogether, maybe even de-lidding the CPU and replacing the TIM. Suggestions?
  8. Going to get a 1080 today/tomorrow (pretty nice sales atm), and due to my limited budget here are my choices: Palit JETSTREAM Palit GameRock Palit SUPER JETSTREAM Gigabyte Windforce X3 And if I manage to stretch my budget by a little bit more I could get the Strix A8G/O8G. What do you think? My budget is pretty much at the GameRock mark, the SuperJetStream (which to my understanding is supposed to be binned for OCing) and WF3 are slightly over my budget whilst the Asus cards are about 10% off of my budget (in local currency) Thanks
  9. Found a stepped drill and a plexiglass jigsaw blade, need your confirmation if you can: says 4mm to 20mm titanium drill bit, 7.5cm long and is designated for drilling in metal. Here's an ebay listing for a plexiglass jigsaw blade: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Jigsaw-Blades-100mm-Bimetal-for-Bosch-for-Aluminum-Plexiglass-Varicor-/272010665849?hash=item3f55195f79:g:0i0AAOSwWnFWArnj#shpCntId Also - is there any difference between the Bosch and Black&Decker jigsaw blades? Thing is the drill bit specifically is quite expensive locally, so I have a question: How do you recon I could do the hole for the GPU - could I drill with a smaller drill-bit and then widen it with a jigsaw or should I stick to round holes? If so, this specific model is up to 20mm and I need it to be wider, would that be an issue as I don't want to try and widen the hole by just eating away at the sheet.
  10. Trying to mod a PSU cover to my Phantom 410 - First try was "successful", kinda failed a little and over-did the angle of the bend, it fits but it looks angled and weird. Plus I only covered the PSU with it and not the bottom HDD cages (which I intend to keep for now until I have enough money for a custom loop) I also managed to chip a part of the perspex in the area of the front I\O connectors as I tried to drill a round hole using a metal bit on a jigsaw to make that hole. I aim to do a better job this time and seek some advice: Firstly, should I cut them in a circle or just got for a rectangle? If so, how do I do that for the GPU one mostly, since it should be 4cm in diameter? Second, I'd like to add a hole to route my GPU cable upwards. How should I drill through the sheet? It's 3mm thick. Rectangular hole sizes are 4x1cm for the GPU cable and 5x1 for the Front I/O connector area. Tools I've got are pretty much just a drill and a jigsaw, both with only metal and wood drill bits (maybe got some cement drill bits, also they're all less than 1cm if I'm not mistaken), could get my hands on a dremmel\circular saw but that'll take more time. Thanks in advance!
  11. Hey guys! Hard-bricked my Z00AD, I'm able to get to bootloader using xFSTK but AFT flashing fails over and over. Tried flashing with a couple raw images I found, waited an hour for one to complete and got nothing, then waited 7 hours for the other, still no go. currently have it running with a 2.20.40.139 image that I downloaded from this guy's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BboYFzgg7Jo Also searched the forum a bit and found a couple more images that I'm currently downloading (2.15.40.13 and 2.20.40.196, gonna try to revert to android L with the first one, maybe it'll work) It just gets stuck at the "Flash image" stage with "RESULT: OKAY" on my device. Tried flashing manually with a later firmware after supposedly cleaning the partitions (I.E. sideloading via fastboot to flash splashscreen, droidboot, boot, recovery and system of the latest firmware) and nothing happened. ATM Also downloading the 2.20.40.139 zip firmware to try and manually flash the same firmware on the device. Any suggestions? Thanks! EDIT: Asked over at XDA and was told to quit AFT while it was flashing (after "result: okay" shows up) and open it again, then press vol up to reset bootloader on the phone to change the serial. Though a problem appears again: Serial on the phone has changed but now my computer doesn't recognize my phone at all - neither on AFT nor when checking fastboot devices via adb. EDIT: SOLVED If you have the same issue - everything works until you flash once, afterwards your PC doesn't recognize the phone. First try to do everything on a different computer, if the same happens do the following: 1. Run xFSTK to get to bootloader. 2. Flash once with AFT. 3. Force exit from AFT 4. Connect the phone to another computer with AFT installed and the RAW image file 5. Should now recognize the phone (don't exit from bootloader) and allow you to flash the image.
  12. So I've had the white glorious mousepad for a while now and of course, since it's white, I was gonna get sweat marks and other stuff on it. Looked for a way to clean it anywhere but couldn't find a solution that will make me completely sure it's safe - I'm really scared of staining it somehow with a color I shouldn't. Like if I'd wash it with some dish soap like some suggest or something like that. Reason behind this is I tried to clean a part of it with some baby wipes and it left a mark. is a washing machine safe? Since it has the stitching on the outside and all... Any help? Tnx
  13. Can't run a wire. Can't run them just like that because doors and such. Can't run them through walls because it is hella expensive. Can't run it on the outside, same reason as before and I don't have the time to do it myself. Wifi is the answer. Or a router, if it could work that way.
  14. Done editing Thanks for the fast replies BTW. @huilun02 I have a receiver to test with, but unfortunately it's not mine and I'm going to need to return it soon... Plus it's not the best out there. So what do you guys think?
  15. ***ACCIDENTALLY POSTED, EDITING ATM*** So I have a pretty serious issue at the moment because my brother is killing me. He keeps complaining about his network speeds and that they're terrible (which is true) but I can't figure out the best solution, so here's what I've gathered. At the moment, this is what we have: A main modem/router (Netgear Wireless N600, via vDSL) hooked up to a home plug that connects to my brother's PC. Tested internet speeds: At my PC connected directly to the router (tested right now) - 54.5Mb down 3.2 up At his PC, connected via the home plug (last tested about a month ago) - 1.5Mb down 1 up. Though it seems something happened to his Ethernet port recently or something likewise, as I can only get 0.2Mb down which is atrocious. At his PC, via WiFi through a repeater (TPLink TL-850RE 300Mbps) and a usb receiver (levelone WUA-0605, I think it's v1 150Mbps) - 12.5Mb down, 2.8Mb up. Question is - as I'm terrible with networking; How do we increase his internet speeds without a wired connection? Getting a new, higher bandwidth receiver would cost about 30$, but I doubt it'll increase download speeds by that much. (Thought of the TP-Link Archer T2UH 600Mbps) However, what if we decided to get an extra modem, connect it via vDSL as well, and then connecting that to my brother's PC. It would cost double, but could possibly bring him up to par with out speeds. (For example a Kasda KW52285 300Mbps at 65$, as a new N600 would cost about 115$ locally) Would something like that work? Would getting a new receiver improve internet speeds by a noticeable margin?
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