dxzone12

I am looking to pick up a 3080 as soon as the stock becomes reasonable again. In the meantime I would like to upgrade my monitor to something more fitting for my eventual 3080. I am currently running an Acer Predator XB241H which is a 1080P 144hz GSync monitor. As well as a secondary monitor which is just a 1080p asus IPS monitor to put secondary stuff on while gaming. I mostly play competitive FPS games like Siege and Overwatch so I still want something capable of high refresh rate. Though I do occasionally play more sightseeing games that would benefit from better graphics quality. In terms of budget I don't have a rigidly set number but I would like to go for something that is a good balance of price and performance as opposed to just getting the most expensive over the top monitor possible. I have been looking at the Dell S2721DGF 1440p 144hz Gsync-compatible as it seems to be on par with the LG 27gl850 but I can regularly find the dell cheaper in my region. I just have a couple of questions before pulling the trigger on this monitor: 1. With the power of a 3080 would it be worth getting something 4k like the 27gn950 which is also GSync compatible 144hz? 2. Are there any side effects of running something like the 27GN950 at 1440p to get a higher refresh rate when gaming? 3. Will the Dell S2721DGF be a decent enough step up from my current monitor to justify the price? The most noticeable thing for me will likely be the step to IPS though I would lose proper GSync. 4. Are there any other monitors you would suggest other than the ones I have mentioned that would be a good fit for my needs and the 3080.

Thanks, this sounds like exactly what I am after.

Just started my folding machine up again for the first time in a month or two to get it ready for this. The last time I was folding was earlier in this pandemic when there were huge issues getting work units for GPU. This seems like it is still an issue as only one of my GPU's has picked up a work unit. Are there any good ways around this, particularly those that are automated. The method I use at the moment is just occasionally checking to see if it is waiting then pausing and restarting the GPU.

This could very likely be the reason it is not posting. I had a quick look at their site which says it is compatible with ECC memory but only unbuffered. As the memory modules you have installed are registered memory which is not unbuffered. I would recommend getting a hold of compatible memory preferably those listed on the memory support list on gigabytes website and giving those a try.

Only other thing I could think of to try would be turn the system off and take out the gpu. Plug the monitor into the motherboard and power it up to see if you get any output. if that fails it sounds like a faulty motherboard to me so hopefully the computer shop can confirm on Monday.

Have you tried plugging the monitor into the motherboard and see if you get video there. I have had a couple motherboards where they won’t output via a gpu without going into the bios and changing a setting.

EDIT: I see someone else posted a nice diagram and equivalent explanation before I was able to type this out so feel free to disregard this. This is 100% incorrect. As many others in this thread have pointed out it is just an example of parallel flow. Each gpu will get half the flow of water. Lets assume the water is coming in from the top right of the gpus though it doesn't really matter. What happens is in that inlet the water can either go down through the gpu bloc or straight through the tube into the next gpu block. As water is looking for the path of least resistance much like electricity which also has parallel circuits, half the water will flow down through the block and half will flow straight through the pipe to the inlet on the next gpu block. The half that flowed straight through will then go down into the second gpu block as that inlet is capped on the other side. After going down through that second gpu block it will come out the outlet on the bottom left of the gpus. Now the half that flowed down through the first gpu block will come out the outlet on that gpu block and flow through the other straight pipe connecting the gpu's. At which point it will combine with the flow coming out of the second gpu block there and flow out the same outlet in the bottom left. Here is a nice breakdown from EK waterblocks about how parallel flow works, their example uses a cpu and gpu but the effect is the exact same: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/parallel-vs-serial-loop-why-choose-one-over-the-other/#:~:text=After clarifying it like that,due to the split flow. Here is a video from JayzTwoCents explaining the same concept and showing that it has little to no effect on cooling. Here is a page from koolance that suggests the setups and highlights the negligible cooling differences. They make water blocks and would therefore know what they are talking about when setting them up. https://koolance.com/help-video-block-connecting

Thanks for the tip, had a look at performance-pcs and with postage it is pretty much on par with the EK slim rads even after accounting for currency conversion. Cheers, I will double check my measurements and see if I can fit the larger rads. Would a thicker radiator from hardware labs be better than one from ek if i can fit a larger rad?

Good call I totally forgot those. I will add a t-intersection and a ball valve to the list.

Would like to get thicker rads but there is not a lot of space in the case so not sure if they would fit.

Thanks for the advice I will try and track down a 240 and 360 gts but unfortunately I am located in Australia and availability is very limited.

The full rundown of the system this will be cooling is in my profile but here are the key components: I9-9900KS Maximus XI Hero WIFI - Black ops 4 edition Case: Cooler master MB530P GPU: Currently a 2070 Super but I don't think I will order the loop till the 3000 series nvidia GPU's release as I plan on upgrading to one of those. I do Intend to include the 3000 series card in the loop, probably either 3070 or 3080 I ran the EK configurator and am planning to get as many of the part as possible from EK to simplify compatability and orders. Here are the parts I am looking at currently: 1x EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) 1x EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) 1x EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi 1x EK-Momentum ROG Maximus XI Hero D-RGB - Plexi (Went with the monoblock because I heard the vrm's can get hot in this board) 1x EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm 3M RETAIL 1x EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL) 10x EK-Torque STC-10/13 - Black 1x EK-Quantum Flow Indicator D-RGB – Black 1x EK GPU block and backplate for whichever GPU I end up with Probably a few 45 degree or 90 degree fittings as well as some splitters for the fans and rgb cables. My first concern and therefore question is will the slim 240 + 360 rad be enough to keep the 9900KS and gpu (for now assume 2070 super) under control with some overclocking? To add to this are the EK slim rads good enough or would there be a noticeable performance difference in trying to get Hardware labs gts radiators for example instead? I am also looking to run the fans at relatively low RPM to try and make it as quite as possible when there isn't a lot of work being done. If continuing to get everything from ek I was looking at these fans: 5x EK-Vardar EVO 120ER D-RGB (500-2200 rpm) I do not know much about EK's fans so wanted to get a feel for what people here recommend. I would very much like the fans that I get to be aura sync compatible with A-RGB lighting (part of the reason for considering the EK setup) to match the rest of my system. If you have any other recommendations for fans that would be appreciated. My last question is about temperature sensors since I noticed my motherboard has a header for them I thought this would be good as I could tie fan speed to liquid temp instead of CPU. However EK does not seem to offer them so does anyone have a recommendation for a good temperature sensor that is easy to install?

Very helpful thanks. Yeah the cpu should all core turbo as high as 5Ghz so it should be within warranty.

Yeah I will definitely look into a better cooler, want to do a full custom loop in the case at some point. Looking to see if this is expected performance for this kind of cooling. I probably should have mentioned but I am not looking to overclock I am looking to see if the out of the box performance is as expected or if I am handicapping it with a setting or something somewhere. Ah thanks maybe I am just paranoid for nothing

I have recently picked up an i9-9900KS and it doesn't seem to be performing as well as I would expect. I am running an Asus Maximus XI Hero (black ops 4 edition) and it is being cooled by a Cooler Master ML240R. With multi core enhancement enhancement disabled or set to Auto I am getting around 4600-4700 in Cinebench R20 and the clock speed is around 4.7Ghz-5Ghz for about 10 seconds then drops down to 4.5Ghz on all cores. With multi core enchancement enabled it stays at 4.8Ghz for the whole test and gets a score of between 4800-4900. From what I have seen online people seem to suggest it should be getting more like 5100-5200 on Cinebench R20. In all tests the temperature is usually between 70 and 80 and never going more than 85. Does any else have similar chips they can check the scores on to compare? or have anything I could try to get better performance?

Cheers will monitor with HWinfo if I decide to get the CPU and prop a small fan up in there if needed. As a side note do you think a 750W PSU will be enough to drive that CPU and my RTX 2070 Super?

I have a coolermaster MB530P which has 3 fans in the front all intake, one at the rear exhaust and my cooler is mounted on the top with two fans in exhaust. Do you think that would cover it or should I look into getting a fan pointed more directly at the VRM

I am currently running the Asus Maximus XI Hero (WI-FI) Black Ops 4 Edition which as far as I can tell is the same as the standard Maximus XI Hero. Here is a link to the specs on their site: https://www.asus.com/au/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-XI-HERO-WI-FI-Call-of-Duty-Black-Ops-4-Edition/ There are a couple of still sealed i9-9900KS's available in my area at the moment and I am thinking of upgrading to one (currently running i5-9600K) but just wanted to get an idea of whether there would be any issues driving this chip with this board. I know it is not on the certified CPU list for this board but it is for the standard maximus xi hero so i suspect it would still work. I have an ML240R cooler so I am not to worried about cooling the CPU just whether the motherbaord would have any trouble driving it. Hopefully someone with a similar setup can give some advice.

No worries, Glad you got it sorted.

Sounds like a man in the middle certificate type issue. In chrome if you click on the little lock when you see this error can you send a screenshot of the certificate chain and the various issuers.

What extender are you using exactly? if the extender is connected to the router via wireless then that could explain things but if you are using Ethernet from the router to an extender and then Ethernet from there to your computer that should be the fastest option. I can’t find anything definitive on those models but some linksys routers do support wifi repeater mode. Here is a link to a page that explains how to check and set it up if it’s possible. You could also try the wireless bridge mode on the ea7300 if it supports it. This would allow you to connect the ea8300 to the ea7300 wirelessly and then connect your computer to the ea7300 with Ethernet.

Hi, as was previously mentioned in this thread virtual server is what that router calls the port forwarding settings. Also if you refer to my reply just above yours there is an explanation of why you can not easily port forward from that router and that you should contact your isp as they will need to be involved in the process.

Can I ask what your exact setup is because even with a repeater on Ethernet you should end up with a better connection than wifi especially with a repeater

I noticed that router is a 4g router which explains a lot. From what I know a 4g wireless connection works differently to a typical home network so you are not assigned a public ip address that people can connect to by default. You may be able to get this set up by talking to your isp that supplies the 4g connection and ask them to give you a static public ip which will likely cost extra. Once they tell you your public static ip I believe you would then put that in both the start and end boxes, the lan ip will still be your internal 192.168.x.x address. Whether or not you are ask for a static ip I would strongly recommend talking to your isp about port forwarding as it will not be straight forward on a 4g connection and they may be able to advise you some way to do it with their specific setup without the need for a static ip.

personally never seen a router make you specify a range like that. What is the model of your router ?