brandongaming33

I figured out the issue, and this one is still confusing me as to how it happened. Somehow one of the 4 holes in the backplate for the CPU cooler was partially stripped, so it wasn't fully threading making the cooler not make good contact. Now mind you I haven't removed the cooler since I built the PC, and the thermals were normal when I built it, so somehow while either sitting in the case, or being moved to the new case the threads were stripped. Anyways, fairly cheap fix in the end at least.

I also tested with the default fan curve and it did not make a meaningful difference

Here's the inside of the case, the fans are both in their default configuration (pulling air in). Yhey do both spin, they were just turning off when I took the picture because it was idling. I set a custom fan curve where they are at 0% speed up until 50 C, and then they hit 100% at 77 or 78.

Also the CPU cooler was not removed from the CPU/motherboard when I moved it over to the new case

So I did a case swap this afternoon from my old antec nine hundred to a new Fractal Design Focus 2 RGB, the case looks very nice and everything, but my CPU temps have risen like 15 degrees from the change (went from around 70 to 75 C in the old case to 85 to 90 C under load). Now I hadn't done a recent temp test in the old case before I did the swap, and gaming is the most intensive thing I do which doesn't hit the CPU too hard, so it may have been something else that was also effecting the other case but I just didn't notice. From what I've seen online it doesn't seem like it's an issue with the case in general, it seems to get fairly average temps for a mid range case which I would think would be in line, if not better than my old one. The weirdest thing is that my GPU temps seem in line with what they were in the old case, right around 70~ C, and I would think an airflow issue would affect both the CPU and GPU. The only thing I can think of is either the CPU cooler somehow isn't making good contact now, or the extra fans in the old case made that much of a difference, which I doubt because it was much more closed off and used older fan designs. Specs: CPU: 5600g cooler: stock in box cooler GPU: 6650 xt motherboard: MSI B550M-VC pro wifi cases: antec nine hundred (old) and Fractal Design focus 2 rgb (new) Factory fan configuration in both cases (2 140's in front for the fractal, and 2 120's up front, 1 120 in the rear, and 1 200 (maybe?) up top for the antec)

Thanks, sounds like 42.3L would work for me. I'll probably go with that or the focus 2 that was also suggested

I have 2 2.5 inch drives now, it would be nice to have a 3.5 bay incase I decide to put a hard drive in, but not something I need.

Is there a real difference between the different versions of the Meshify 2 beyond the slight size differences? The original must have some supply issues here because it's like 220$, but the compact version is a lot more reasonable at 115-130$. Another one to add to the options, thanks for the suggestion!

Looks like a pretty solid case for the money, I'll add it as an option. It is a little bigger than I wanted, doesn't seem to have a PSU shroud, and the front panel doesn't have a dust filter (only mesh) though.

Little more than I wanted to spend, but thanks for the suggestion

I'm looking at upgrading my case in my newly built system. I kept my old antec 900 case from a previous build, thinking it would be fine, there's a lot of little things that annoy me about it though (solid LED fans, no 2.5" bays, size, no dust filters). Looking for suggestions that fit most of wants/needs. I need 2 (ideally 3) 2.5" bays, a few 3.5's would be nice too for upgradability. I want something smaller for a case, this one takes up almost half of one of my desks (it's a full size case and I have an m-atx board in new one so downsizing shouldn't be hard). No solid coloured LED's, either customizable RGB or plain black. I have a dog so dust filters are pretty much a must. Here's the pcpartpicker list of my build right now: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GhXBtn. I don't want to spend too much on a case, ideally less than 100$ CDN, but for the right one I might be willing to spend a bit more. I thought about the Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L, but it has solid coloured LED's, which I don't like.

Okay I was able to convert it GPT and it boots fine, however everytime I boot it says the file \windows\system32\boot\winload.eft is missing or corupt with the error 0xc000000f. If I hit escape it exit it windows loads like usual, and rebar is now working, but how to fix that error? I tried booting into windows install media to run a startup fix in advanced options, and doing a disk check through the command line... What else should I try?

This is probably the issue, it is from a relatively old pc, so I'll give it a try!

Recently did a new build, but took over the ssd with OS from an old one. I'm trying to enable resizable bar for the extra preformance but to do that the bios wants to switch to UEFI instead of CMS. However UEFI for some reason thinks my hard drive is the boot drive, the hard drive has some movies on it and a few games nothing that should be confused with an operating system, so I'm wondering how to make it recognize the right drive. When I boot using UEFI, it says in the boot priority that it is booting off the wrong drive, and then it will say something along the lines of there's a problem with your OS install please contact your system admin. Also using windows 10 which is updating to pretty much the latest update (maybe behind by like 1). maybe relevent specs: boot drive: crutial MX 500 500GB drive causing issue: some random 300 GB toshiba hard drive additional drive that doesn't seem to be causing issues: Western Digital Blue SN570 1TB cpu: ryzen 5 5600g ram: 2x8GB kit of TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z motherboard: MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI gpu: powercolor fighter rx 6650 xt psu: corsair cx650m

So randomly probably around a week ago I noticed my second monitor wasn't turning on, so I did the usual switching around cables, unplugging and plugging back in and such. I got it to turn on, but the probably persists. It seems it just needs like five minutes before it will turn on after my main display is on, especially when the monitors have been off for a while. I never had this issue before it started a week ago. It is a fairly old monitor, so it's possible it's just reaching the end of its life. Any ideas as it how I might be able to make this go away? I'm not sure the exact model, it's from LG's Flatron Wide line up though, and is a little lower in res than 1080p.