rorythedawg

Ok, it was the coax TV cable in the basement that was causing the ground loop, i guess that is grounded separately than the House plugs. With that unplugged I have no issue! only figured this out due to this random thread I found when looking into ground loop isolators! https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/do-ground-loop-transformers-isolators-degrade-sound-quality.461707/ Shout out to @HenrySalayne for figuring out it was a ground loop!

Ok, so plugging the AVR (whose plug does not have a ground pin) into a different circut with only the PC plugged in still gets the buzz, also still have the buzz if the PC is plugged into the alternate circuit and the AVR is plugged into original circuit. This is with the monitor unplugged in both scenarios. Unplugged the PC in both cases still results in the buzz stopping. It looks like something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jensen-CI-2RR-IsoMax-Isolator-Jensen/dp/B00ASVWYCS a ground loop isolator would also solve my problem. But that is a fairly expensive solution, anyway I can do this for free or cheaper? Edit: ok looks like that was just a really expensive one: https://www.amazon.com/Earthquake-Sound-GLI-200-Kleaner-Isolator/dp/B07Z5SKRMR/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1593803169&sr=8-8 looks like theres ones that are much more affordable. Any suggestions on how cheep/expensive I should be looking at for these? I don't wanna spend too much but definitely want to get something that will fully fix my issue. Edit2: Looks like ground loop isolators can also reduce bass frequency output, this isnt a huge deal nessicarily since I almost never crank the bass on my AVR, but is this somthing I should worry about? I may start a new thread for ground loop isolators since this one is cluttered and for the diagnosis.

Omg, you are genius lmao. You are 100% correct. If I have both my PC and Monitor unplugged the sound stops, but having either one plugged in causes the buzzing. I guess the loop is between my AVR and my monitor and PC. So the next question is how do I get it to stop? Im thinking if i plug into different circuits maybe that would fix it since they would be grounded to different physical locations? Maybe this is also why I only noticed it when I moved back to my parents house temporarily between apartments as I must have had my stuff plugged into two separate circuits prior? I will test this out and report back. Also thank you so much for your help, this has been driving me nuts and I couldn't figure out what the heck could have been causing it, I didn't consider it could have been the power going to my monitor at all, since when I had the DP cable unplugged I could still hear it before.

woah no im a moron, im the one whos off by a 0, you are right its 14ns lol also the other ones were 6.9 5.6 and 5.9 ns

close but you're off a 0, 17/1200 = .0141 so its 141ns definitely got my ns conversion wrong in my previous post, too bad at math and too tired lol also tbh i only kinda know what im talking about with ram, very confusing stuff imo

yeah to be fair I havnt actaully looked at the baord apart form one pic, my understanding was that almost every mobo has a dedicated VRM to RAM and other mobo crap but maybe this is only standard on mid-ranged to high end mobos

Not in every case, but typically you need to loosen the timings to get higher Mhz, the relationship works like this Cas/Mhz x 1000 = access time in ns as remember RAM is storage just like a hard drive or SSD. CAS 11/1600MHz = .0069s or 6.9ns CAS 9/1600MHz = .0056s or 5.6ns CAS 11/1866MHz = .0059s or 5.9ns also one other thing I should mention is that 1600mhz ram is actaully 1600*2 for 3200mhz as ddr stands for double data rate meaning your ram chip is running at half the speed your ram says, so your ram is actually running at 1200mhz but twice per cycle making it effectively 2400mhz (since your ram transfers data twice per clock cycle)

The only part here I disagree with is that your board cant handle OCing the ram, as the RAM has its own VRM separate form the CPUs so you actually could probably OC the ram (provided the kit can OC at all) though you should leave this at stock as theres no way youll be able to match the stock timing + mhz performance, even if you got higher mhz you wouldn't be able to get the timings close enough to make the overall speed better.

VRMs are you power delivery, if you have any airflow over them you dont need to worry to much (for this build at least), essentially you need to dissipate the heat off them the same way that your CPU and CPU need their heat dissipated. More VRMs and better cooling results in being able to push more power through the mobo to your CPU. and if you were running 3.85 on that board that is almost defiantly the cause of your crashes as that board just cant handle the extra power draw of a 1700 at 3.85

500mhz isnt gonna kill his board, if it even applied the +500 in OS, which i doubt very much. Also tbh its still a bad deal considering that if he bought this a year ago he could have had a b450 for $5-$10 extra, bought my old asrock b450 for $65 in 2018

rx 570 no question, GNC is aging much better than maxwell, plus as pointed out by Sorenson, 970 has the weird 3.5g config of actually usable ram and .5gs of trash ram. Where i disagree is with his 1650 suggestion as tbh its not faster and is more expensive, though used prices can vary a lot by region so buy whats best price to performance in the end.

https://www.pcworld.com/article/3175005/amd-ryzen-motherboards-explained-the-crucial-differences-in-every-am4-chipset.html#:~:text=Crucially%2C while every Ryzen processor,of your CPU%2C look elsewhere. "Crucially, while every Ryzen processor can be overclocked, A320 motherboards do not support overclocking. So if you want to squeeze more oomph out of your CPU, look elsewhere." http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Zen/AMD-Ryzen 7 1700.html "Maximum turbo frequency: 3700 MHz" Are you sure you have an A320 board? That chip set is not supposed to have overclocking support. And if you are sure about the A320 board, have you checked that your CPU is actually at that clock when in windows? http://forum.asrock.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11433&title=cpu-core-multiplier-wont-stay-put this thread seems to be an example of someone being able to set a multiplier but as expected it doesn't stick in an OS cause a320 doesnt support OCing. I could be incorrect, I just genuinely did not think a320 could overclock at all. Onto your question, yeah there are a lot of nuances to know about OCing, but as long as you know the basic cycle of increasing clocks and voltage until you crash from heat your kinda fine tbh. Anything more than that doesn't usually give tangible benefits anyway and people mostly just do it for fun. Regarding RAM timings (and just RAM itself), that's probably the most complicated aspect of OCing. I cant assist with that much as I don't really understand them well enough myself. Definitely see what you can get out of your 1080 tho.

So your motherboard does not support over clocking so you wont be able to OC your CPU. Typically ddr4 2400 kits wont OC much either as their typically the bottom of the barrel as far as quality goes. Your only real opportunity would be with your GPU as almost all GPUs have at least some overclocking room. I'd recommend looking up guides for your specific GPU. As far as understanding, id check out some youtube channels like Actually Hardcore Overclocking GamersNexus, der8er, really there are a lot and it takes a long time to gather all the different aspects of information. The basics are that you first increase your power limits, then increase clocks until you crash, then apply voltage until you are stable, then keep ramping clocks and voltage until you start to crash due to thermals. MSI afterburner is a great tool for newbies as you cant hurt your GPU by cranking the sliders in there (dont remove any limitations in the software tho)

Unfortunately not the monitors either. I've tested it with everything unplugged from the computer apart from the audio USB cable. Ive also tried another cable. The thing that really confuses me is that I can hear it if i turn the PC off and the PSU off, and drain the mobo caps by holding the power button for 10 secs two times in a row.

I ran an rx580 with a 2200g (basically the same CPU but with an iGPU) and basically didnt get bottle necked (thats a 1060 6gb on nvidia side for performance equivalent) so id definately vote you upgrade the GPU, and then id wait for zen3 for CPU upgrades (even if you only upgrade to zen2 at that point cause the used price drops) the other stick of ram will also more noticeable than CPU for now.