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Mark_Baxt

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-9700k
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG STRIX Z390-F
  • RAM
    x2 8 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO
  • GPU
    Asus ROG STRIX RTX 2060
  • Case
    Corsair iCUE 465X RGB Tempered Glass Mid-Tower ATX Smart Case
  • Storage
    Boot: Samsung 970 EVO 250GB Games: Old 1TB WD drive
  • PSU
    EVGA 600w
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master MAM-T4PN-218PC-R1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. Its working! Not completely sure how I did it, ET thank you for suggesting about the drivers as it led me to this (https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/geforce-graphics-cards/5/341175/graphics-card-suddenly-stopped-working/) which at first I thought didn’t work but I ended up restarting one more time with the Ethernet cable plugged in and it worked! Must’ve been a bad driver. Thank you Renegade for your suggestion as well, I just didn’t see it until I tried this. Thank yous!
  2. How would I reinstall the drivers? It didn’t really work through GeForce experience. And would it work if it’s not properly detecting the GPU? And power supply I think is fine. It’s work well until now, it’s an 850W gold PSU.
  3. I hate that I have to write this as I was hoping what I have tried would fix it but unfortunately not. i have a gigabyte RTX 3080 ti gaming oc 12gb. I bought it off eBay for £500 as I wanted to upgrade from my 2060 and thought this was a good deal and would last me a long time. (Also I know it’s expensive that’s why I’m really panicking about this.) I bought it maybe 2 months ago and about a week or two ago I water cooled it (I’ve never water cooled a GPU before) So it’s possible I broke something while installing the waterblock but would that not have been immediately obvious? My temps under load I never saw exceed 60 degrees so I don’t think it could have been based on overheating. For backstory on how it happened, I was just playing gta with some friends then suddenly computer froze, (I could still hear some audio, mainly windows sounds, but discord audio stopped.) I didn’t know what to do, so I pressed the power button it waited a second and the pc shut down. I’m guessing this was a windows shutdown as I believe windows was running just not displaying. So hopefully no file corruption. Then when I turned it back on again, windows appeared to be running due to the fact my windows hello webcam light was flashing and I heard the computer sign in but there was just a few LEDs on my monitor on. I’ll attach a photo. More recently the computer won’t go into windows in the background at all. My motherboard is an asus rog strix z390-f, it has some led lights during boot sequence to help with trouble shooting and the VGA light remains on so it’s definitely a GPU issue and I was able to access my pc if I plugged my monitor into my motherboard and used my iGPU. I tried updating graphics drivers in GeForce experience but after express installation had finished it just came up with the express or custom install buttons again it didn’t say it was up to date (probably because it couldn’t find my GPU). Also in auorus engine it didn’t seem to detect the GPU. However, I have some hopes the GPU is still a wee bit alive as in GPU-Z it still recognised the GPU as a 3080 ti and all of its details. And in my BIOS it has a PCIE menu sort of thing and it detected a GPU was plugged into the PCIE slot. I’ve confirmed the PCIE slot works as I’ve plugged in my old 2060 and it boots fine. Another thing to note is the GPU was originally in a riser cable due to being vertically mounted, however I tried it without the riser cable and it still doesn’t work. Im completely stuck, I’ve emailed gigabyte support however because I’ve custom water cooled it and it’s used I doubt they’ll honour any warranty it may have and I’m just praying there is someone here with a fix. I’ve tried to include as much detail as possible to maybe help, if you have any more questions feel free to ask I’ll take all the help I can get. Thank you! Mark
  4. I checked windows and it reported 300 programs, but realistically about 250. But they vary from very common such as chrome to not common such as WeMod so I really need a program that will search through my programs. I know what I'm asking for is a lot, but there's bound to be a tool out there someone knows about.
  5. Does it support every program or just the ones listed?
  6. Hello! My Windows files are well just messed up half the time I can boot other half I can't. Nothing has worked so I need to reset my PC. But with resetting comes with a load of installing specifically finding the installers, I don't want to do that. Does anyone know if there is a program I can install that essentially looks at the programs I have right now, and downloads the installers so I can put on a USB so once I've reset my pc I can run each installer or does something similar so I don't have to spend a lot of time trying to find installers and remembering every installer I need? It'll also be useful if it installed it for you but something to find and download the installers for me will make my life way easier. I've found a tool by EaseUS called PCTrans and somewhere else that does what I'm looking for and the Easeus costs £50 and the other is like over £100 for a lifetime licence. So they are just too expensive for me. I did find one that is free however it has a relatively small program list to go off (Only recognised 60 of like 250 programs I have installed). Any ideas? Anything is appreciated.
  7. Thank you, I think I'm going to get it then and just see if it works and if it doesn't I'll probably end up selling my 2x8GB sticks. Thank you again for your help
  8. Would the problems be noticeable right away and would it cause any hardware damage? So I can order it and if it doesn't work I can send it back or even just keep the 2x16GB and sell my 2x8GB.
  9. Hi I currently have 2x8GB 3200 MHz Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO RAM (CMW16GX4M2C3200C16). 16 GB isn't looking like enough for me as even right now with just my web browser open and a couple tabs I'm using 9.4GB of RAM but I believe its using paging cause below it says Committed 19/58GB and Cached 6.3 GB. So I want to upgrade my RAM but instead of just getting an extra 2x8GB sticks to have 32GB I was thinking adding 2x16GB sticks so I can have 48GB. I know there are a whole load of complications that come with this and while I've done some research and watched the video made 2 years ago by LTT I feel like this could work but I also don't fully understand memory such as all the different timings. However I've found this RAM: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-VENGEANCE-2x16GB-PC4-25600-Desktop/dp/B081XWLQKS/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=corsair+vengeance+rgb+pro+2x16+gb&qid=1677952751&sr=8-25 which to me looks like the same except its 2x16GB instead of 2x8GB. However something else I noticed is instead of C after the M2 in the item number its a E, I looked this up and this is I believe like a version so the 2x16GB will be a newer set. Does this matter? I've heard mixing RAM like this can cause less performance but surely if I'm going from 16GB to 48GB I would gain performance even if its less than what I would get if I got fully compatible RAM. Also in case its useful I have a Asus ROG Z390F motherboard and an i7-9700k processor. Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you.
  10. By the way the first picture is this morning the second one is last night. The pressure hasn’t increased, it decreased just uploaded them in the wrong order
  11. Yes, but would you count what I have as holding? If you look at the difference in the pictures would you say that’s fine or is it likely a fitting isn’t tight enough
  12. Hey this is my first time custom water cooling so I got a pressure tester as id rather fork out £32 for it than pay scalpers for a new card. But I put it in the middle of the green I couldn’t work out the scale it’s the EK pressure tester and there are nine tiny bars in between 0.5 bar and 0.75 bar and I left it in the middle so about 5 tiny bars in last night and this morning it’s 3 tiny bars in. (Tiny bars as in dashes not the unit) is this ok? Would this be caused due to maybe temperature change or could there be a small leak? If it helps I’m using a 360mm radiator, Corsair’s xc7, and the O11D d5 front distro it’s a cpu only loop and it’s soft tube. Thanks! Just wanted to check if this was any cause for worry before I fill the loop.
  13. Thanks, but not sure if I will go with that, just checking reviews people are complaining of pops and lower frame rates.
  14. Sorry for the weird title, but currently I am using two room one with my PC and other with my bed, what I want to do is have a way to turn on my PC from my bed, and connect a wireless keyboard and mouse. However, I want to be able to also go into my main gaming room, turn the PC on and have it work like normal. So I'm looking at this to turn the PC on remotely but I need also to get then some way to get more internal usb headers on my motherboard as all are taken. Then does anyone know of a HDMI switcher maybe that can be remotely controlled? It would to either output to 2 HDMI monitors (May be switching this out for a big DP monitor and a HDMI monitor) and then 1 HDMI monitor that the signal will be sent over a wireless HDMI thing (If you know a good cheap one that would be great) So basically what I'm asking does anyone know of parts that can help me make this happen? I would like it to be as cheap as possible. Running an HDMI cable through the wall isn't possible. Thanks! Hopefully some of yous could help me! (Just don't spend to much of your time trying to help me this is just me theorising how much it would cost and weather to do it, as I do have a reservation for the steam deck which I may just use instead)
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