SILENCEuk

seems the 12vhpw cable was to blame swapped it out for the ugly 4x 8pin adapter and touch wood its stable

So I just RMA’d my 4090 because every time I booted my system and loaded any video twitch YouTube etc It black screened my pc. Srore agreed after a the card was bad and sent me a new different card model (had a palit game rock 4090 oc now have an ASUS rog strix oc). I plug in and the issue happen immediately again when going to a YouTube video. I’ve already DDU’d the drivers before when trouble shooting. I have a 1500W Corsair power supply using their official 12vhpw cable. I’ve been using a a 4070 from another system in the system fine for a week. it’s driving my mad. Anything thoughts,

So this one has me stumped. I cant get updates for apps via the store (important for xbox app/gamepass). Unless I sign out of the store account each time, update then sign back in to keep gamepass happy. fixes tried win restore point pre issue powershell restore of the store Rig win 11 home 3700x 4090 x570 rog wifi gaming e 32 gb 3600mhz 1500 corsair psu Thoughts? or am i living with the faff till it annoys me enough to fresh install

weekend bump before i give up.

Currently I have my rig sitting with the side panel off to allow for two fans to point directly at the back plate of the 3090 to cool the vrm. Passive cooling isn’t enough when I turn the card over to mining Bitcoin in between gaming sessions. Currently this works fine giving the back extra airflow and cooling to keep the vrm from thermal throttling. I’m moving my rig into a planned 10 fan o11 dynamic xl in the next week or 2 and wanted some advice or ideas any one might have to keep this level if cooling up. I plan to have 6 intake fans (3 bottom and 3 on the front (which is also the side)) and 4 exhaust (1 rear 3 through a CLC radiator top) I've considered mounting the gpu vertically to make use of the 3 bottom fans but I’m now realising the pcie riser cable will block the area of the card most needing the direct airflow (directly behind the gpu/over the pcie slot). I’m looking for ideas or pci gen 4 risers that don’t restrict the bottom fans airflow or ways to mount up to another 3 fans in the case to direct air over the back plate directly. Without sacrificing too much aesthetic if possible.

Yeah it’s an extra £16 and I wasn’t running out of space using the 1 tb so to be fair 2 is overkill already even for £16 it’s just not worth it and would likely die again before I filled it lol (have a 1TB ssd and around 350gb in other ssds from years off adding them) my froogle brain kicked in but you nearly got amazon the extra out of me !!!

Perfect exactly the info I needed thank you again. will pick up a 2tb barracuda simply because it’s the same price as a wd blue and comes a day earlier from amazon. At £60 it can’t be horrible right ? Either way though thank you again for the speedy advice and reassurance.

This is actually very helpful thank you. so basically as my router and hub set up is limited to 100mbs the limitations of smr shouldn’t ever be an issue ? And sequential read writes and maybe a few games that spill over from the ssds would be absolutely fine? any advice on wd blue over a barracuda ?

So my reliable HDD is dying and I need to get a new one. I want to get a 2Tb 3.5inch drive but recalled the video about smr vs cmr and saw all the reviews online about the issues. so my question is will it matter to me ? I download around 20-30gb a day of video to watch. And sometimes double or triple this. This data is then often watched and the deleted within a day or two. would the issues around smr affect me? am very open to HDD recommendations if you have a reliable long lasting drive that’s 7200rpm and can take the daily use easily.

ok so likely the pcb then? drives fine ish but controllers dying?

Yep it fully disappears from device manager too. The same data power cable is powering an ssd that isn’t having any issues. And the power supply is basically brand new Corsair 750w modular icue intergraged thing. it is pretty old yeah it’s been in the pc for as long as I can remember but never had a single issue with it as my daily download content from websites I’m subscribed too. Watch then delete. Little confusing it’s showing as in good health if the read error rate being 100 is bad ? im going to need to buy a new drive then and hope it lives long enough to copy over from an external enclosure then ?

not sure what crystal does but shows this

is this of use?

So I decided to fresh install my windows yesterday and it’s all running fine apart from my HDD. It’s purely a media drive holds no system files etc and no games are run off it and is written to daily as I download most of my content consumption. Now the drive will randomly with no consistency or common cause become unfindable in file explorer. I’ve got the case open now and removing the sata power cable and plugging back in makes the drive appear again and work as if nothing happened. No need to restart or rescan for hardware changes. Simply removing the sata connection alone doesn’t fix the issue it has to be the power cable. This only started post fresh windows install with zero issues or hints of issues before hand. Any ideas ? I’m not an expert but I’d imagine if the drive was failing I’d be getting poor performance and lost data and be unable to revive it from the disappearing state? The drive is a 1TB Hitachi with the code HDT721010SLA360 with drivers provided by Microsoft nothing custom going on. 10.0.19041.1 from 21/06/2006.

Been looking for a while and it seems readily available in the US now but does any one know a place in the UK or even the EU that stocks the case? Or even just the lcd glass panel ? Could just pick up a regular i510 nzxt and add the panel if need be.