Jump to content

HCM

Member
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

  1. Thanks for the quick reply! Yes, it does (in theory) cost less for the wired one (I believe the wired would normally be 80$, while the bluetooth 100$...?), but over here both are 100$ for some reason. I would buy them from Wacom themselves, but I'm pretty sure they either don't ship here or that it would even out to the same price post-tax (and perhaps for an even longer shipping period), or it could be that they rely on re-sellers, kind of like NVIDIA does. There's also the fact that bluetooth ver. used to give you access to Clip Studio Paint Pro, which the wired ver. didn't, but I'm not sure whether that's the case anymore. In any case, if I can use the bluetooth version the same way I'd use the wired one, without any problems, then that should do it.
  2. So I was thinking on buying a graphics tablet for use of (mainly, but not just) digital art, and I decided to go for the Wacom Intuos S. Thing is there's 2 options available: wired and bluetooth. Usually I'd go for wired, since it's cheaper, but this time they're the same price (literally) on the store I plan to get them. The problem here is that my desktop PC doesn't have any bluetooth capabilities. I do have 2 other bluetooth devices connected to it, a Logitech mouse and an XBOX One Controller, but both of those came with a dongle that I connect via USB so I can use them. Normally, I would assume this tablet comes with one as well, but there's no mention of it on the store's site, unlike with the other 2. It does mention that it comes with an USB cable as well, but I am unaware whether or not it allows the use of the tablet or if it's for charging only. Any ideas?
  3. A final update and a solution for my problem I noticed some issues in other games, such as 1 second freezes in Dead by Daylight after a few consecutive hours of play time, and textures taking a little bit longer to render in Apex Legends, so I decided to move those 2, alongside CS:GO, to my SSD (in CS:GO's case for the second time). This seems to have fixed the freezing problem entirely + the other issues I have mentioned. In the end, I think that I'll leave the HDD for singleplayer games only, or at least for the most part. Other than that, thanks for the replies.
  4. The title mostly describes the problem, but here's a less rough description: Built myself a new system back in November since the old components, especially the i5 3470, were starting to show their age in more recent games, such as my main one, Rainbow Six Siege (which really has a problem with anything 4 core or less). The specs are as follows: -Ryzen 5 2600 -MSI X570 Gaming Plus (I was planning to get a third gen ryzen, but the price didn't drop a bit; took in consideration possible future upgrades, alongside the fact the best B450 mobos were out of stock, and I went for the X570, even if I got myself a 2nd gen ryzen) -HyperX Fury Black 16GB DDR4 3000MHz CL 15 (dual channel kit) -GTX 1050 Ti (which I had previously used with the old system) So far, so good, the system runs normally on most games I throw at it, with the exception (until now, at least) of CSGO, which micro-freezes every now and then, especially when I'm about to turn a corner to an enemy. It also feels kind of jaggy sometimes. I tried different fixes I found on the internet, such as: -trying different power plans (including the AMD one) -trying different XMP profiles (and none) -turning off Shader Caching in the NVIDIA Control Panel -installing the game on the SSD instead of the HDD -disabling fullscreen optimizations ...but to no result. There is also one solution (link: https://steamcommunity.com/app/730/discussions/0/350542050096654423/ ) I found which talks about setting different affinities (more precisely deselecting different cores), which so far I only tried with core 0. Doing it didn't solve the problem, though it might have helped a little (will update the thread once I find if it really did). Other than that, I am open to new solutions.
  5. Thanks for making it clearer, it indeed does make sense that a CPU gen that barely got on the market would work better with faster RAM. As for the "Worth it?" question, 2666MHz is no more than 10$ less in my country, so 1-2 FPS per dollar + slightly better working with my CPU and slightly better performance in video editors and such seems like it is indeed worth it. I also researched a little bit about XMP and it seems to me like the safest 'overclocking' that I can ever do, and indeed it is true what you said about most RAM speeds marketed are reached with it. As for either the MSI B450 TOMAHAWK or the MSI B450 GAMING PLUS, I heard that except for one being slightly better at overclocking and temperatures (and one having 2 M.2 slots instead of 1...?) they're basically the same. At the moment both MOBOs are out of stock on my main store and both on stock on my secondary store, where prices are higher (slightly) and the difference between them is around 50$. Considering I've decided on buying them during Black Friday, I'll reconsider the choice when I see the reduced prices (considering they don't go out of stock on both stores, which would suck a lot). Thank you both for your responses, you were of great help to me making my choice.
  6. That's a great thing to hear, though I'm wondering if overclocking to 3000MHz is going to ruin the warranty of the RAM. I would say not since it's advertised as 3000MHz, but I'm not sure if that includes reaching it by overclocking. Also, by your last assumption about the 3rd gen Ryzen did you mean that for a 3rd gen I should go for a new-gen chipset MOBO instead of the B450 (I know that both would work; if BIOS are updated for the B450, that is; but I have no clue about the difference in performance), or that having the RAM overclocked and a more powerful CPU would cause some problems?
  7. So I was thinking that for my next build I'm going to use either the MSI B450 TOMAHAWK or the MSI B450 GAMING PLUS, alongside a Ryzen 5 2600 CPU. Since I heard that Ryzens work better with faster RAM speeds, I'm considering a dual-channel kit Corsair Vengeance LPX Black 16GB DDR4 3000MHz CL16. Thing is, both MOBO specs say that over 2667MHz they require overclocking. Should I go for slower RAM and keep it like that or should I go for this kit and try overclocking for the first time? Also, which of the 2 MOBOs should I go for if the TOMAHAWK is around 50 dollars more in my country?
×