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Levi92

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About Levi92

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  1. Yes I did. The long screws went through the fins like butter, which is why it felt "right" when I was doing it.
  2. Frankly speaking, the fact that radiators have holes for screws on either side can really mislead you if you don't know it better. But I guess I had a Vergy-worthy moment. Thanks guys!
  3. Thanks for your replies. I tested the radiator for leaks and I could not see any leaks. Visually, it also looks like screws only ever hit the area (fins) between the metal tubes where the water flows, but not the tubes themselves. So I think it looks good. I have a total of 860mm in terms of radiator in my case for 1 CPU and GPU, so I guess there should not be a performance implication Thank you guys!
  4. Hey everbody, I just installed my top radiator (Hardware Labs GTS 360) using the screws that came with the radiator. I had assumed that the screw must go all the way down, but I did not realize that this is not how it is supposed to be done. As you can see in the pictures, I have installed three screws which go all the way down and have probably destroyed all the fins along the way. Have I destroyed this radiator? Malte
  5. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vector-rtx-re-copper-plexi The only thing I can think of doing now is get an M2.5 screw that is long enough for the missing screw hole and get some more (and maybe thicker?) thermal pads from EK to be able to make contact with the block. However, wouldn't thicker thermal pads also make it more difficult for the die to make contact with the block?
  6. Doesn't the fact that the gpu die is fully covered with thermal paste imply that there is sufficient contact? I removed the waterblock once more and did as you say and tightened the screws in a cross shape pattern. I also placed an additional thermal pad on each of the 8 vram chips. Some of the vram chips still don't seem to be making full contact with the waterblock. The temps and performance still have not improved. Help...
  7. Thanks for the reply. I have everything installed now and, unfortunately, things are not working as expected. Initially, the GPU immediately jumped to 83 degrees when running Furmarrk. Idle temperatures where between 30-40. I then took apart the GPU, checked that the thermal paste spreads properly and tightened the screws are little harder. I have everything installed again and now the temperatures are at 74 when doing the Furmark test (my max temperature with fans was also 74) and at 28-30 when idling. However, the Furmark score is much lower now. At 1440p, I now get a score 2200. Originally, I had a score of 7500. The framerate used to average 120, now it is at 50-60. When installing the waterblock/backplate, I was unable to install one screw. As you can see in the last picture, the M2.5 screw is not long enough to reach the waterblock. Unfortunately, EK did not enclose any screws long enough for that hole. Could that missing screw mean that there is not sufficient contact? What is also strange is that, according to the MSI Command Center, the pump fan speed is always at 0rpm. The pump fan cable does not have a third pin. Doesn't it require 3 pins to be adjustable via the command center? I will also upload a short video for you to see everything in action. Honestly, I am quite desperate at the moment.
  8. I would like to give an update about the watercooling project of mine which is coming along nicely. As you can see in the attached picture the only thing that is missing now is the tube to connect the GPU with the radiator. This will be done on Friday. However, I have a question about the waterblock which I have installed today. As per the manual (see attached picture) the thermal pad (Nr 2) does not cover the adjacent components. I have applied the thermal pads exactly as instructed by the manual. However, I have seen videos of people installing waterblocks on their RTX2080s where they also covered the components located next to thermal pad Nr. 2. Should I worry about this or have I done everything correctly? Thanks in advance!
  9. Actually, there was a second reason why I was reluctant to reverse the ariflow: If I use the radiator in the front as an exhaust, I have to use the radiator fans as pull fans. If I decided to go for a push-configuration, then I would lose precious space that I need for the pump/reservoir. As I have read that push is better than pull in terms of cooling performance, I initially decided to not reverse the airflow. However, I watched some online videos and apparently there is only a marginal difference between push vs pull. Would you agree? I also pulled the trigger on the GTS 2080 Xflow from Hardware labs.
  10. Both. Now I have a pretty aggressive fan setting which usually leaves the GPU temps at 68-72 (4k, max. settings). However, the three fans are at full speed and they are annoyingly loud. Also, we are currently experiencing a massive heat wave here and my GPU recently jumped to 84 degrees pretty much instantly after starting Metro.
  11. I have three reasons for not wanting to water cool my CPU. Firstly, I like the looks of the Prism Wraith cooler. Secondly, I have no issue with CPU temperatures (they rarely exceed 60). Thirdly, one radiator may not be powerful enough to adequately cool an overclocked GPU and CPU (not overclocked). The reasons for not wanting to place the rad on the top is because that would restrict me to a 240mm radiator. Also, the space in in the top is very limited. I can hardly run my cables between the top fans and the motherboard. I was thinking of reversing the fan flow. I was just worried about dust buildup. But I might actually reverse the fan flow. Thanks for the idea.
  12. Thank you for your reply. Now I have been thinking of getting the Hardware Labs GTS 280 X-Flow as a radiator. It has good reviews for a thin radiator and seems to be of good quality. However, I have been reading that people generally recommend thicker radiators if size is not an issue. Since I believe that my case can fit a thicker radiator, would it be a waste of opportunity to go with a slim radiator in terms of cooling performance?
  13. Hello everybody! This is my first post in this forum, so I hope that this is the right place. If not, have mercy. ? I want to build a watercooling solution for my graphics card and my graphics card only. However, this is the first time I am entering the world of watercooling (I have only previously built my first pc) and have doubts about the practicality/feasability. Therefore, I would like to get some feedback from the experts (that is, from you!). First of all, here are my specs: - GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2080 Windforce OC - Case: Fractal Design Focus G - 2x 120mm front intake fans, 1x 120mm rear exhaust fan and 2x 140mm top exhaust fans (all Corsair ML series) - CPU: Ryzen 2600x (with Prism Wraith Cooler) - Ram: 2x 8GB Patriot Viper - Samsung NVME SSD with Heatsink Here are my questions: 1) According to the the product description of the online shop where I bought my pc case, I can only fit two 120mm fans in the front. However, it is also said everywhere that this case supports a 280mm radiator in the front (and a 240mm in the top). How can these two information be reconciled? As I believe a 280mm would always be the better choice in terms of cooling, this would be my pick (if I can fit it in my pc, that is) 2) Assuming I can fit in a 280mm radiator, will it be sufficient to adequately cool the GPU? 3) If I were to install a 280mm radiator in the front, how would this affect the temperature of my other components? If cooling the GPU came at the expense of all other components, then this would be a big drawback. Thanks in advance, Levi
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