Levi92

I have an Aorus B550 Pro motherboard (Link to manual: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_b550-aorus-pro-ac_1001_e.pdf) and am not sure about how I connect my Pump RGB header to that board. As far as I can tell, I only have three RGB headers on my motherboard (one of which is the CPU Led header) My pump is the EK-Xres 140 Revo D5 pump (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump). The EK website says that "the arrow marking on the 4-pin LED connector is to be aligned with the +12V marking on the RGB header". I am very inexperienced with this, so I don't want to get it wrong and kill the LEDs. I would say that the only option for me to connect the Pump's RGB header is to connect it to my LED_C1/LED_C2 header (Nr. 10). Am I correct? Thanks for your help!

Thank you very much!

I have a Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 12 PSU (https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/1923) and connected all cables to the PSU. However, the 20+4 cable confuses me. At the end that goes into the PSU, there is an additional 8 Pin connector (see first picture). What needs to be done with that one? Also, if you look at the second picture, you see that the PSU has an 8 pin connector called "MB". Am I supposed to plugged that in there? https://ibb.co/qkK91T2 https://ibb.co/VQTJZ2N

Hi, I am currently building a PC which I want to finalize by the end of this year. I really like the look of using 90 degree bends (using fittings) at every turn. But what I am really unsure about is the resistance created by all bends. With my current plans, I would end up with a total of 14x90 degree bends + 3 Radiators + 1 GPU Waterblock + 1 CPU Waterblock. Will my D5 pump be able to handle this with good temperature results?

Yes I did. The long screws went through the fins like butter, which is why it felt "right" when I was doing it.

Frankly speaking, the fact that radiators have holes for screws on either side can really mislead you if you don't know it better. But I guess I had a Vergy-worthy moment. Thanks guys!

Thanks for your replies. I tested the radiator for leaks and I could not see any leaks. Visually, it also looks like screws only ever hit the area (fins) between the metal tubes where the water flows, but not the tubes themselves. So I think it looks good. I have a total of 860mm in terms of radiator in my case for 1 CPU and GPU, so I guess there should not be a performance implication Thank you guys!

Hey everbody, I just installed my top radiator (Hardware Labs GTS 360) using the screws that came with the radiator. I had assumed that the screw must go all the way down, but I did not realize that this is not how it is supposed to be done. As you can see in the pictures, I have installed three screws which go all the way down and have probably destroyed all the fins along the way. Have I destroyed this radiator? Malte

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vector-rtx-re-copper-plexi The only thing I can think of doing now is get an M2.5 screw that is long enough for the missing screw hole and get some more (and maybe thicker?) thermal pads from EK to be able to make contact with the block. However, wouldn't thicker thermal pads also make it more difficult for the die to make contact with the block?

Doesn't the fact that the gpu die is fully covered with thermal paste imply that there is sufficient contact? I removed the waterblock once more and did as you say and tightened the screws in a cross shape pattern. I also placed an additional thermal pad on each of the 8 vram chips. Some of the vram chips still don't seem to be making full contact with the waterblock. The temps and performance still have not improved. Help...

And here is the video:

Thanks for the reply. I have everything installed now and, unfortunately, things are not working as expected. Initially, the GPU immediately jumped to 83 degrees when running Furmarrk. Idle temperatures where between 30-40. I then took apart the GPU, checked that the thermal paste spreads properly and tightened the screws are little harder. I have everything installed again and now the temperatures are at 74 when doing the Furmark test (my max temperature with fans was also 74) and at 28-30 when idling. However, the Furmark score is much lower now. At 1440p, I now get a score 2200. Originally, I had a score of 7500. The framerate used to average 120, now it is at 50-60. When installing the waterblock/backplate, I was unable to install one screw. As you can see in the last picture, the M2.5 screw is not long enough to reach the waterblock. Unfortunately, EK did not enclose any screws long enough for that hole. Could that missing screw mean that there is not sufficient contact? What is also strange is that, according to the MSI Command Center, the pump fan speed is always at 0rpm. The pump fan cable does not have a third pin. Doesn't it require 3 pins to be adjustable via the command center? I will also upload a short video for you to see everything in action. Honestly, I am quite desperate at the moment.

I would like to give an update about the watercooling project of mine which is coming along nicely. As you can see in the attached picture the only thing that is missing now is the tube to connect the GPU with the radiator. This will be done on Friday. However, I have a question about the waterblock which I have installed today. As per the manual (see attached picture) the thermal pad (Nr 2) does not cover the adjacent components. I have applied the thermal pads exactly as instructed by the manual. However, I have seen videos of people installing waterblocks on their RTX2080s where they also covered the components located next to thermal pad Nr. 2. Should I worry about this or have I done everything correctly? Thanks in advance!

Actually, there was a second reason why I was reluctant to reverse the ariflow: If I use the radiator in the front as an exhaust, I have to use the radiator fans as pull fans. If I decided to go for a push-configuration, then I would lose precious space that I need for the pump/reservoir. As I have read that push is better than pull in terms of cooling performance, I initially decided to not reverse the airflow. However, I watched some online videos and apparently there is only a marginal difference between push vs pull. Would you agree? I also pulled the trigger on the GTS 2080 Xflow from Hardware labs.

Both. Now I have a pretty aggressive fan setting which usually leaves the GPU temps at 68-72 (4k, max. settings). However, the three fans are at full speed and they are annoyingly loud. Also, we are currently experiencing a massive heat wave here and my GPU recently jumped to 84 degrees pretty much instantly after starting Metro.