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seth125

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Everything posted by seth125

  1. By 'otherwise' I meant it keeps the VGA display signal while loses the DP. And I already tasted it with the 290 and happened the same: The PSU makes noises when the GPU has a heavy task and then switch off. It would be difficult (in my guess) that both cards, different brands and GPUs, had issues, but who am I to judge? And yeah. I'm definitely running to a friend's whose system has a i7 2700 and a 670 to run an ultimate test. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't actually control how your PSU manage to deliver power to the system, right? I mean, when you overclock you chose how much power your computer will receive, but not how much will the PSU deliver, right?
  2. I still have it, actually I switch back to my old trusty one for I had some work to do and couldn't rely on the gtx... and with this the PSU works fine, no problem. im running Win10 and OS X (hackintosh) and in both have issues. have 2 monitors, one DP and other VGI and after wake up (in windows) it loses the DP signal. In OS X happens otherwise. And no, was an Omega. Not sure which one is worse. Guess gonna try to RMA it
  3. you had my curiosity, but now you have my attention. how can it be done? Im pretty sure it is not recommended but could any harm be done or how risky it is?
  4. How could I be sure? Any possible fix? Could it avoid the warranty?
  5. The cheap low quality PSU was my friend's. Mine is the Corsair HX. My GPU is a i5-2500k and my motherboard is a Gigabyte Z77X UD5H with 32GB DIMM Value Selected Corsair 1333MHz
  6. Well... I bought this HX750 in 2013 because I was told it was the only PSU I would need in my system. Through all this time 'till yesterday I used a Radeon HD 6770 1GB but now I got this new GTX970 G1 Gaming by Gigabyte, who claims it requires at least 550w or higher to run. Mine is higher. About a month ago a friend of mine had this low quality Chinese 1000w PSU that died because of his AMD R280x by Visiontek, that claimed it needed at least 750w PSU to run. We tested that card on my system. As soon as I open a game or a benchmark app the PSU began to make noises and after a while it shuts down. I asked in the forums of Corsair and they said my PSU was fine. That the GC had some sort of issue that made it power-hungry. I kind of felt better about buying my 970 in the next days because that meant my PSU was fine and wouldn't have problems with the GC. I couldn't be more wrong. I can't open anything that demands the GPU to work for it shuts down right away. Elsewhere someone told me it could be an error in some driver or configuration, but cannot think of something I can do if that's so ever. By the way I have a bunch of drives and peripherals connected. up to like 5 drives in daisy chain to my PSU, previously a 1GB 6pin-connector GC and 7 1200mm fans. everything worked nice and steady until these GGs appeared.
  7. It would be primely for fun. I've got a Gigabyte Z77 tho. My faith on Asus got lost with the second board. But wanna know where to find the needed parts to do such a task.
  8. Hi. I've got this old P8P67 motherboard from Asus with I bought from eBay and only last working for like a month. It was in 2011. When It arrived I could notice a strange smell like there was something wrong. I don't know how to describe it, but I assumed it was for the antistatic bag or something, but since it worked fine when I builded my rig, didn't bothered about that. As I said, it only worked for a month before subtly turned off just like that. I checked everything and realised the smell of the mobo had gotten worse. I took it to tech support, but they told me just by overlooking there was a visible fried chip around the CPU socket and it wasn't worth saving, for just like this chip, there might be others alike. So I bought another motherboard (P8P67 Deluxe) and by attempting to upgrade the BIOS I ruined that too. In some forum they told me I could replace the BIOS chip which got damaged and it'd solve it. I'm still waiting for that BIOS chip to arrive (got lost on the mail for a few months/years), but now I'm checking the first motherboard again and considering to try to fix it as a hobby. If I success, hurray. If not, well, I guess couldn't get worse. That's the context. I don't know how to find those kind of chips. I googled the labeled numbers on it but still not sure if the right one. Printed on the motherboard says PQ1500 exactly next to the fried chip (fried chip LOL Anyone? No? Okay) and the label on the chip says "7030al pbm 1105 e5 7567". By googling that couldn't find the chip, but by just "7030al" I did. Found this but the labels aren't exactly the same. Next to this there is the very same chip but the mobo has printed PQ1501 and looks like it is fine so far but perhaps it is about to fry soon. If required, I'll upload pics as soon as possible. That's all I can see on the naked eye. Would it be worth saving? Or perhaps I could use this Mobo's BIOS chip to fix the deluxe version? or the deluxe to fix this? For the record, the Deluxe one had more issues than this one. Only had two DIMM sockets working among other stuffs.
  9. No, what I mean is that the OS partition has both, system and user files, along with the other partition that only has user files. The system partition has files on the default folder (c:/users/user/user_folders...) When i turn on the pc Windows tells me it needs to repair the OS but it failed on that task. Thats why I need the original disc, but i don't have it for I lost it. I think what I need is to find the current version of the system and I'm good to go.
  10. I have two partitions, originally one for the system and the other for documents, but its a 120GB HDD and now both have documents. There is not system backup. That's the problem. I don't have the disc nor the package. I think I installed Ultimate the first time
  11. Hi. So I'm trying to repair a PC i formated in like 2010 or 2009, but I have no longer the Windows 7 disc I used to format this PC then, so I've downloaded a new copy of Windows 7 SP1 x64, assuming that since it's a newer version it could fix the older one, which it didn't. It said: "This version of system recovery option is not compatible with the version of windows you are trying to repair..." I've extracted the HDD and put it into another computer to have access to the files and stuffs. I do not want to fresh install windows again for it would be a pain in the ass trying to save all the data since it's not my pc and it's a mess. How can I know what version of windows 7 the HDD has installed on, by checking the HDD from another computer using Windows 8? o well, how can I fix this unknown Win7 version PC without the original disc and without formatting it?
  12. This is quite the answer I was afraid of. Any tip to do such task? I'm thinking of a headphone volume control wheel. Might it work to adjust the intensity of the light?
  13. Hey. Hi. Hello! well... I've got this really, really cheap webcam from an unknown brand. The only info the box says is literally "PC Camera". No brand, no model, no serial number... But It was cheap, and it works, which is nice. It has built-in mic and flash and records a pretty decent video. Not the big deal, but I think I've got what I paid for. The only problem is: The flash lights are always on! I thought it happened at first because of it was the first time I plugged it and needed to install some drivers or my system needed to prepare to use the device, but once it was done, I found no way to turn the flash off. The funny part is: a friend of mine got what I thought it was the very same webcam, but it has another logo printed on it (USA-NET), and despite they both share the same shape, mine has a mic with its 3.5mm jack (and the USB cable, of course), while his has no mic, but a built-in wheel to control the light intensity. Do you guys happen to know any way to turn on and off the flash, with some app? and if available for Mac, the better. And if not, any suggest? perhaps how tu modify the cam to add a switch? As I told you, it's a cheap camera and I might experiment with It
  14. Thanks. I already did all of that with no luck. It is weird, because it's not the first PC on which I install incorrectly a memory and I could fixed it before. This mobo turned out to be a though one.
  15. Yeap. That I did. The mem is fine, as I put it on my PC and they worked. But then I put my own memory in this one and nothing happened.
  16. Hello my brethren. A friend of mine just brought me his old PC for me to format the HHD and install Windows again. He's an Asrock G41m-Vs3 motherboard with one 4GB DIMM and two identical HHD, one for the OS and one for the backup with every important file. I had to open de case to connect an optical drive for the OS DVD but when setting up the installing I realised I didn't know which one was the right HDD for mi to install the OS, so I checked the PC again and while there I removed the DIMM to check it too. The problem was: when I put it back i might have place it wrong, for it didn't turned on. Then I placed the DIMM right, but this time didn't started. There is no video signal and all've I got is a three beeping sound from the mobo speaker. As I checked and figured out, it had something to do with the memory. I did everything that came to my mind. remove everything, reconnected every cable, took off the CPU, removed the battery, cleaned the CMOS, changed the memory and nothing happened. All I've got is a three-beeping sound. Did I screw the motherboard? Any tip for my in order to save my soul and my wallet to have to replace the motherboard?
  17. Mine is a Z77X UD5H Gigabyte. I tried different slots to do so, but in my manual only says in which order to put them if 1, 2 o 4 DIMMs, nothing about 3.
  18. Oh, I'm pretty sure the 4GB DIMM works fine. Before getting the 16GB 1333MHz that was the only memory my system run with. Well I'll check that again, but as far as I can remember, the motherboard didn't even turn on, so I couldn't even get into the BIOS to do that so. I tested the three memories one by one and separately work just fine. The problem is when they're together. Even 8GB (x1) plus the 4GB one worked well together, but not the three ones. That's why I thought perhaps getting another 4GB 1600mhz is what I needed.
  19. Oh well that's... interesting. So DO can mix the memories but they'll run as high as the lowest one. I got that clear now. Thank you guys, but that doesn't solve (i assume) the issue I had when I put the 16GB 1333MHz with the 4GB 1600MHz and my system didn't turn on. Shouldn't I've had 20GB running at 1333MHz at least? Or I needed another 4GB to do that? And my motherboard has a 1155 socket with a Sandy Bridge CPU, so do the math. By the way, those 1333MHz dimms were gift, so I couldn't complain about that
  20. Wow that bad it is? Well I guess the other option is replacing the current 2 dimms for the new ones
  21. So I was wondering. My system so far has 16GB (8GB x2) 1333MHz Corsair Value Select and I've been wondering if Is it possible to get, perhaps a second pair of DIMMs, but a Vengeance (8GB x2) 1866MHz. I know it is not recommended, but I'm planning to get 32GB 1866MHz in the future, but till that moment comes, the best I can do is get this two DIMMs. I used to have a Corsair Vengeance 4GB 1600MHz but when attempted to put these three DIMMs together on my Z77X UD5H my system didn't even turn on. I assumed it was because of the different memories, for when I remove the 4GB one It worked flawlessly. And on my previous build, with a P8P67 Deluxe all the exact three memories worked fine. I guess it was because of the MemOK function of Asus. Well my question is if my system could work with 2 different channel memories installed. 16GB 1333MHz (8GB x2) and 16GB 1866MHz (8GB x2). And how about if I want to use 3 memories instead of 4, cause in the manual only says in which slot to put them when you have 1, 2 or 4 DIMMs.
  22. Well I'm glad to say I solved my issue. It came out to be the Battery. I replaced it and the problem was gone. The PSU was ok thou. Everything went better than expected
  23. Oh well thanks. Yes, I'm planning to get a GTX760, perhaps two. I'm well aware of how big my PSU should be. I'll let you know when I try another PSU.
  24. Thanks a lot. I was really worried thinking it was the mobo that broke down. My PSU is a cheap one. 1000w Omega, but I'm attempting to get a Corsair hx750 soon, assuming I won't have to get another motherboard, and my graphic card is a Radeon HD 6770 Xfx. I'll try testing with a better PSU just to make sure is it, but just wonder: This motherboard comes with an additional internal SATA power connector to ensure the stability when multiple graphic cards are installed. I read the manual and didn't see that I shouldn't/couldn't use this even when only one graphic card is installed, so I did it, for there weren't any warning about it,and as my PSU wasn't the very best, I thought a few more power wouldn't affect it. Am I right? The motherboard doesn't seem to be damaged at all.
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