ToTouchAnEmu

The board recommends using A2 and B2 first for faster speeds, but nowhere does it say it simply won't work in the other slots. Using one stick at a time in those other two slots was part of my troubleshooting to narrow down where the issue was. The main issue is that I have a 4 stick kit and if all 4 slots are occupied I get memory errors with XMP enabled. The RAM is rated for the XMP speeds and the board says it supports those speeds.

lol so okay no I haven't played around with voltages, I'm not really an overclocker. I just enable XMP to get the advertised speeds and walk away! however I will say that the DIMMS are all working fine. One at a time, I put them into slot A2 and ran the mem diagnostic, with no errors returned. However, if I use slot A1 or B1, I can't get XMP working, it always defaults to 2133Mhz.

Hey sorry I accidentally posted this incomplete so I was editing it and finishing. I have updated it with all the steps I took.

CPU - 5950X Motherboard - X570 Aorus Elite Wifi Version 1.0 Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB 64GB (4x16) (CMW64GX4M4D3600C18) ver 4.33 GPU - 2080 Super PSU - Corsair 750 Watt Storage - Samsung 970 Pro 1TB I upgraded to this AMD system a month ago and I've had random BSOD issues since the upgrade. After installing a clean OS the issue still occasionally happens. I ran a windows memory diagnostic and it returned errors. I ran the same windows memory diagnostic with one DIMM at a time (in the A2 slot), and no errors popped up. However, if the DIMM was in slot A1, the system seems to struggle to POST, powercycling several times before finally booting. But opening up Task Manager shows the memory running at the stock 2133Mhz speed instead of the 3600 in the XMP profile. Going back to the BIOS, it will still show the XMP as enabled, but then the powercycling happens again and then once again, task manager shows it's at 2133Mhz. So I moved the DIMM back to A2, double checked the XMP was enabled, and now there was no powercycling, and task manager shows 3600Mhz. Skipping ahead, slot B1 had the same problem has A1. And slot B2 also worked fine, just like A2. The manual does show that when occupying the slots with two DIMMS, that slots A2 and B2 are preferable for better performance. Next I tried putting two DIMMs into slots A1 and A2, to see if it would still power cycle and default to 2133Mhz. It did not, the memory was still running at full speed. All four slots occupied also result in full speed. Only when both slots A2 and B2 are empty, does the system powercycle. My theory is that the something is wrong with slots A1/B1 or maybe the power delivery for them or something. Has anyone else experienced something like this?

I purchased the repair manual for this TV which includes all of the submenu options and navigation, in hopes I'd find a solution to disabling global dimming. Turns out, it's not possible to disable the feature. So you have to set the input to PC for all of your devices if you want to disable the feature, and the TV will periodically attempt to autodetect the device you have plugged into and swap it away from PC, overwriting all of your settings because they know better than you apparently. Samsung has idiot proofed their TVs to a point where I will never purchase one again.

Well I'll splice as a last resort but for now I'm gonna keep looking for the pcb connector type (since the device works fine so I'm in no hurry to resolve it). I have emailed the manuf to see if they can shed light on this as well.

Okay so perhaps instead of looking for a pcb to usb cable, perhaps I should just splice a new connector using that wiring information?

It's definitely a USB 2 Port, I have edited the post to include a photo of the USB connector.

I have edited the post to include a photo of the USBA connector. I am currently using the device to edit so I don't want to take it apart right now but I can check the wiring with my multimeter later today.

I use a loupedeck+ for photo/video editing and it's great but the USB-A connector is horrible. It takes an insane amount of force to get it into any USB port. I have identified that the cable is not soldered onto the board but instead uses some connector. It doesn't look proprietary, but I'm very inexperienced with these things so I don't know what to search for to replace this cable. If anyone recognizes this connector type you'd be a big hero to me because then I can replace the cord with a higher quality connector.

Slow Motion video of the stuttering. Video was captured at 240 fps so I set the monitor to 120Hz to eliminate any sync issues. I took a photo of the screen to prove that the monitor is definitely frame skipping Here is a video of my laptop with the same issue as the desktop (wallpaper engine is disabled in the beginning, then enabled to demonstrate the issue. I can't set the laptop to a compatible refresh rate with the phone capture, but you can still see the issue pretty clearly) Main PC specs i7-5820K 2080 super 64GB 2400Mhz Acer Predator 1440p 144Hz IPS Dell 60Hz IPS (secondary) I have this issue with wallpaper engine. With the app open, I experience consistent micro stutters, noticeable when moving windows around the desktop and screen tearing when watching videos on youtube, like if vsync was disabled in a game. Below are the steps I've taken to resolve the issue. 1. Pause wallpaper engine (fixes the problem immediately and then restarts when upaused) 2. Close wallpaper engine (fixes the problem but the problem reappears when starting wallpaper engine again) 3. Open wallpaper engine in all other modes, including 64 bit mode and with hardware UI disabled (no change) 4. Re-install wallpaper engine and reset all preferences (no change) 5. Unhook secondary monitor (no change) 6. Try different refresh rates such as 120Hz, 144hz, 165hz, and 60hz. (no change) 7. Installing wallpaper engine on laptop and try every previous step (laptop has the same issue. It's a mid-2019 15" 144Hz Razer Blade) Edit: Forgot to add a couple of things I've tried. 8. Making sure all GPU drivers are up to date. (no change, and the laptop uses integrated graphics when not in game so I doubt it's an Nvidia problem) 9. I have also tried multiple backgrounds (no change) I just can't figure out why wallpaper engine is causing this horrible microstutter. I have looked online and don't see a whole lot of people complaining about the same thing, but now that I can see my laptop having the same issue I feel like it's very unlikely the problem is just on my end here. Does anyone have any suggestions of more things I can try? I am okay with just uninstalling the software but I'd like to explore every option first.

I have a Samsung UN55RU8000FXZA TV I bought for my office. My primary concern was a panel that had good input latency and supported 120Hz input. This TV does those things, but I have some super large problems with the TV. The software is GARBAGE. I use an HDMI switch to connect my various consoles to the TV, and every time I switch it to a new device, the TV "detects" the device and changes all of the picture settings I had set to what they think is best for that device. The only way I have found to stop this is to press exit on the remote as fast as I can before it can finish detecting, but it's really fast. But even more egregious than that is the global backlight dimming. Any time there is a dark scene in a game or movie the TV just goes so dark I can barely see anything. I have heard you can set the input to PC mode, but again, it always changes it every time I use a new device. Also that doesn't work when I'm using one of the built in apps, like netflix or youtube. Also the global dimming will automatically come back if the input is less than 720p, even in PC mode (that one is a mystery to me... but it makes playing my old wii/gc games impossible). Is there a way to change this software to something else? I wasn't sure if someone out there has custom firmware that works on all samsung TVs. Also why has Samsung idiot-proofed this TV to the point where it's basically unusable for someone who wants to set it up their way?

Thanks so much for that link! I use ethernet for internet but was interested in the bluetooth functionality. However at the price point I'd much rather just buy a small usb dongle and call it a day.

Recently I had to replace my x99 motherboard due to a USB overcurrent issue preventing me from booting. My new motherboard is used (obviously) and has built in wifi/bt. It has the connectors on the back for the antenna, but when I bought an antenna it was too large to fit the connectors. I didn't realize that the connectors are smaller than ones on a typical router. I have searched for information on what kind of connectors these are on the back of my motherboard, and I can't find anything conclusive. Does anyone know the specific name of the connectors on the motherboard? Motherboard -Asus x99-Deluxe II Antenna I purchased that didn't fit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010STD2KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a new LCD (UN55RU8000FXZA) for my office to play computer games on while I'm not working. It works great when it's hooked up to my PC, but I noticed a weird effect when playing games on consoles or watching any kind of television. When the scene of the game or video I'm watching goes dark, the entire TV dims way down and I can barely see anything. It's like the backlight of the TV is adjusting itself way down when it notices the scene is dark. There are zero options in the menus to fix this, and I've disabled any kind of auto contrast feature and all energy saving features are disabled, yet the problem persists.I have a copy of GTA5 for both PC and for PS4. So I decided to cut out as many variables as I could. I used the same HDMI input slot on the TV used the same HDMI cord, played the same game, didn't change a single setting on the TV. Yet, while everything looked normal on the PC version of the game, the backlight of the TV was adjusting automatically when using the PS4.I know I sound like a crazy person, saying that the dark scenes on my TV aren't as bright compared to a bright scene, but I KNOW the TV's backlight is changing brightness dynamically depending on how bright the scene is. I just need help disabling this dumb feature. Help me please!!!