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Swordbreaker925

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  1. Yeah but i probably care about airflow more than i should. Issue is all the cases with the best airflow just dont look very good to me. NZXT's cases are probably the best looking i've ever seen, tho. Minimal and classy and with the option to forego all the RGB. I'll probably end up going with the NZXT H510 or H710, or maybe a Corsair Carbide series since i already have alot of Corsair parts anyway
  2. Oh wow. That's pretty dumb. I hadn't looked into it much but based on the pics i assumed it was unobstructed to allow air to come in the front. The glass looks worse than the opaque front imo. Probably wouldn't have gotten it anyway, but thanks for the info.
  3. How is the Elite version worse? Looks to me like is has much more of an opening for air to come in through the front, vs the standard version's lack of real openings on the top or front for air to come in
  4. Well my prebuilt has amazing airflow (i did have to re-build it after some parts failed so not TOTALLY pre-built). It has a 3-fan cooler on top, a fan at the back and the bottom, and has a lower portion that keeps it off the ground by 3-5 inches for better airflow underneath. It's also a pretty big case (thus the previously mentioned bulkiness) with lots of room inside for air flow and expansion. My current case has pretty amazing airflow, it's just that the SSD is nearly impossible to get to cuz Origin decided to put an HDD/SSD 5-slot hot-swap bay on top of it. Great for swapping out storage drives in literal seconds, but makes it impossible to replace the OS/Boot drive that's underneath it, since for whatever reason they didn't put the OS drive in the hot-swap bays. But i'll keep that in mind. I love the look of NZXT stuff, but i do care about air flow for the longevity of my parts. The house i stay in is always too warm as is (always set to 78F) and i live in Texas so it gets even hotter in the summer. Once i move out of my parents' place maybe that'll change but right now it's already warmer than i'd like, so maximized airflow helps.
  5. I bought a PC from Origin PC back in 2014. I love it, but the case is pretty bulky and getting to the SSD is pretty much impossible without taking other components out. I'm planning on upgrading my SSD soon, so i'm thinking i'll also change everything into a new case. I've been looking at the NZXT H510 because i LOVE how it looks, but i've heard the airflow isn't great. The H510 Elite looks like the airflow would be a bit better, as it allows air to come in the front and out the back (and i would like to have linear airflow, tho not required), but it doesnt look quite as good imo. Does anyone know how good the airflow in these cases actually is? Also, what are some other good cases with good airflow and easy-to-access SSD/HDD bays? I need something with easy access, cuz i do plan on upgrading my SSD again in the future when they get less expensive for bigger sizes.
  6. I did not. My boot SSD drive and storage HDD were not changed in the process
  7. Yeah, worst case scenario, i barely even notice it anyway. Even while gaming. The only times i notice it is if i happen to look at part of the UI that's down in that corner, but even then i dont always notice it cuz it's minimal enough
  8. I recently changed my PSU, motherboard, RAM and CPU, and ever since have been receiving a message in the lower right corner of my screen that tells me to activate windows. The troubleshooter will not fix the issue, and the error code i'm getting is 0xC004F211. Supposedly you can re-activate after a hardware change by signing into your Windows account, but this has not fixed the issue. It still asks my to go buy a product key ($200. Not gonna happen. I just spent over $1,000 on upgrades and have a valid license already). I got Windows 10 for free back when it first lauched as a Microsoft promotion to upgrade Windows 8 to Windows 10 for free, so i do not have an original product key i can enter either. Basically, is there any way to reactivate windows without paying the absurd price? Cuz i'd rather deal with the message in the lower right than pay that exorbitant amount.
  9. Thanks! I enabled XMP I in BIOS and now iCUE is showing my RAM frequency at 1600 (x2 = 3200). So looks like that fixed it!
  10. Alright, thanks! Still learning the basics and wasn't sure cuz 150f sounds hot. Glad to see i built this thing right and it's running ok
  11. First time PC builder here. I recently finished my PC build and installed software (Corsair iCUE) that allows me to see the temps, fan speeds, etc of all my hardware. After playing Skyrim for a few hours, i noticed that one of my graphics cards (GTX 1080) gets up to 150 F, while the second graphics card remains in the high 80's or low 90's. I have them connected with an ASUS ROG SLI bridge that came with my new motherboard. So my question is, is it normal for one card to run hotter than the other? And is 150 F an acceptable temperature for playing a game as old as Skyrim?
  12. First time PC builder here. I recently bought four sticks of 3200MHz RAM. I haven't yet tested it in-game, but when the computer isnt running anything except for stuff like Steam, i'm only getting a frequency of about 1070MHz. Does RAM frequency fluctuate based on load or is it simply not functioning as it should? For reference, i'm using Corsair's iCUE to view my system info like temperatures, frequency, fan speed, etc. since my RAM, PSU, and AIO Cooler are all Corsair.
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