KEIN NEIN

So I assume the reason for 120/240 fps recording being a thing is the same reason why 8K/12K is available. Not because people will watch in that format, but because it's handy in post.

Do you mean, capable of shooting 120 fps means capable of 120 fps real-time in camera especifications? I see phone specs and there are specs for real-time and specs for slow-mo.

Excuse me, English isn't my native language. Are you implying that high-framerate recording doesn't feel much more fluid due to motion blur?

Which means (I guess) that you can do 4k120, but only to watch it yourself, provided you have a display that has a high enough refresh rate.

Hi. Nowadays I see in the specsheets that there are digital cameras capable of recording 4K 120 FPS (and 4K240/8K120 in film cameras like the Ursa). But I wonder, is 4K 120 reserved for slow-mo video? Or does it work in normal speed as well? I ask because I searched video tests in YouTube and I only see slow-motion when it comes to 4K100 or 4K120. It's due to 4K100+ being slow-mo only or YT not supporting 120 FPS or simply because most people only use the 4K100+ feature for slow-mo footage? Thanks.

You, VLC does play the file, thanks

Ok I’ll try that, thanks

I want to save a 4K video to my iPhone 13 mini 256GB, but all my attempts have been unsuccessful so far First I tried uploading the video to Google Drive, but I got this error message after downloading: "an unexpected error happened while saving to photos check your storage and permissions and try again" So I tried to send the file over Bluetooth (with a USB to Bluetooth adapter) and got this window: I decide to buy a lighting to USB-A cable, connect the phone, allow the computer bla bla bla and still can't paste the video anywhere bc the option is grayed out so I come across this guide: https://support.apple.com/guide/itunes/transfer-files-itns32636/windows download iTunes on my PC, follow the steps and no luck either What do I do now? I am out of ideas... I'm currently running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, my specs are: Intel Core i3 4160 8GB 1600 MT/s HD 4400 graphics WD Blue 500GB 7200RPM HDD The file is .mp4 (and around 350 MB) and I use the free version of iCloud

OK, I’ll try that out, thanks

I do it bc I suppose it causes less heat, but even with bluetooth and location services disabled, and even if never use it when charging, it overheats. Indeed, it feels warm as I am typing this.

I wish there were an Apple Store nearby. There are only two in the whole country and both are located in the capital. Excuse me, what do you mean? I never let my phone go below 20% and usually charge to 80-90% with the OEM charger.

Thanks for the quick response. I use the original 20w usb-c adapter that you can buy from Apple. But the usb-c to lightning cable isn’t original As for the case, I don’t use any case. And Apple coverage expired sadly

Yeah, Seasonic isn't always higher quality.

CPU bottleneck varies depending on several factors like game, resolution, drivers, etc. But overall you shouldn't worry as the CPU isn't very important at low frame rates (I consider 60 FPS to be a low frame rate goal)

I have a used iPhone 13 mini (256GB model) that I bought like 6–7 months ago, and it's been a while since it gets uncomfortably hot, especially when watching videos for too long or installing updates. It bothers me so much that I place a table fan next to it when charging. I turn off Bluetooth and Location, and never use it while charging. Also, I am worried that it might shorten its battery, as it's already gone from 100% when I bought it to 93%. I am running the latest version of iOS and use the original 20 W adapter for charging (the cable isn't original though). My questions are: ¿Is it normal? And: ¿How can I prevent it from heating? Thanks.

One question before I solve yours. Are new components expensive in your region?

I'd buy 12th gen because it is a current platform, and I am a bit biased toward Intel. But it's more complex than that, you should look at CPU pricing, mobo pricing, etc. I only recommend ryzen 3000, 4000 and 4000 series to users on an extremely tight budget.

It's a waste of money. That's what's wrong with it. Sometimes you think you save money by going cheap, but you are only delaying spending more money, which in turn means wasting more money rather than saving it. It's simple math (not gonna mess with architecture differences here): 11th gen i7 is a 16 thread from an old-gen platform. 12th gen i7 is a 20 thread from a current platform and 13th gen is a 24 thread chip from a current platform as well.

I DID NOT say that, I didn't even replied to you. I said the other guy that a logo is just a logo

Some ASROCK boards are pretty crappy as well. The reality is no brand is to trust, all of them sell both good and junk products. OP should be encouraged to read reviews instead of felling inclined towards a certain brand because "oooooh this logo is evil".

It's bc he isn't reselling atm doesn't mean he never will Sorry, but personal experience doesn't matter at all. Statistics may matter, electronics background may matter as well. But you are talking about a single product running a single scenario for an specific period of time. Now, my experience is different. I have bought several used components and most of them fail within a year. Many people think used parts are the saving grace of budget computing but they just aren't. Besides, you say you have no problems, but not being able to notice any problems is different from not having problems in the short or long term. The reality is, you never know what you are getting when you buy used. It may last for lots of years or it may be dead the day you receive it. I mean, even new products can be either DOA or malfunctioning. What do you think that happens when you buy used? It's like playing russian rulette.

Budget system doesn't mean junk parts. You wouldn't want to spend more money, but they will spend more money anyway, simply bc that PSU won't behave well with gaming components. I strongly recommend you to read on modern GPU's power behavior and also the difference between dirt-cheap PSU knockouts and somewhat decent PSUs. https://www.evga.com/products/specs/psu.aspx?pn=ffee59fd-9d7c-411c-a23d-c5a0a61dde2d According to EVGA's own website, that thing has a sleeve-bearing fan, a 3-year warranty, and almost certainly a double-forward + group-regulation topology. That used to be OK 10 years ago, but modern GPUs are very different from 10-year-old GPUs.

Not talking different scale here. We're talking the exact same thing. The only difference being you believing it's fine while me knowing for sure it's not. Don't spread misinformation, please.

Like some other user pointed out, that PSU is a piece of garbage, and it's too late to ask, you ask for advice before buying, not the other way around. So, I'm afraid you wasted your money. I can say no more...

It is not enough because wattage isn't the only thing that matters. PSU's guts also matter. You may have a 2000 W PSU, it'll be worst at driving a power-hungry GPU than a good 1000 W PSU.