Surreals

10 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Please do not post duplicate threads in different sub forums. 

Tried to delete other didn’t mean to post it in there 

My windows is stuck in a loop when the pc turns on I get little white lines then I get - diagnosing pc - repairing then this screen any help please no idea what to do 

13 minutes ago, Morthor said:

My 1080ti had issues, sent it back got a full refund. Now I need to decide if I buy another 1080ti or a new 2080ti. I have little hope that the new SUPER cards are going to be superior to the 2080ti.

 

Any advice on what I should buy? 

 

I run an 8700k with 16GBs of RAM at 3466Mhz.

 

Thank you

i'd go with a 2080Ti tbh you won't be disappointed and if you do go for one go with EVGA there customer service and warranty is exceptional

Hi guys what’s the difference between the Akko x and none Akko x ? Cheers 

1 minute ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

I would use it as you normally would use a monitor.

 

If the scratch is interfering, then I would look for a replacement.

If the scratch isn't a big enough deal, rock on.

I mean you can barely see it on white so I’m probably  been pathetic, considering the deal

i got 

Hey guys bought this from a shop today. 

It it should be £500 new in the uk but got it for £280 used and in very good condition other than this that I didn’t see in the store as I didn’t see white background it’s a very small scratch on the screen Would you guys say it’s minor or to complain  about not been told about it? 

2 hours ago, SpookyCitrus said:

If I were you I'd get a different case. The 500D is pretty but the airflow is trash. It may have a bunch of fans but it's severely choked buy the tempered glass and small gaps for air intake. It could be more beneficial and cheaper to go with a high airflow case than doing a custom loop or GPU AIO, also  might want to see if you have positive or negative pressure. When gaming does the case just fill with hot air? If no air is getting to the card and it's just sitting in hot air that's going to be a big part of the problem.

Yeah I get you for sure but in all honesty I want to do a custom loop as I love how they look and wanna do it as a little project! So  That’s why I’m just wondering if it makes a huge difference

52 minutes ago, jones177 said:

In the research that I have done 10c is what I would get if I went with an EVGA Hydro upgrade on my XC card.

 

RTX 2080 ti all run hot on air over 100% on the power limit. 

At 100% power limit my 2080 tis don't run hot at all, so look at what the power limit is when people claim under 50c.

 

At this point I can't even recommend buying a 2080 ti that is not on waster.

 

 

I have a 2080ti Strix Oc mines I think 125  power. Runs warm hence why I was thinking I might water cool it 

16 minutes ago, wildthing said:

idk bout as 2080ti but in general if your gpu runs around 70c it will drop to 50c depending on the card and amount of radiators but most cards drop even in to low 40's

So from air to water is like a 20 degrees difference with a custom loop?

hi,

i have a 2080ti strix oc 3 fans.

i am looking at water cooling my cpu and gpu but mostly for the gpu are the temp drops a lot ? i find when running 4k i get throttled by heat etc and it runs warm, will a water loop make a big difference to the gpu temps?

Cheers 

1 minute ago, Dan Castellaneta said:

Meh. Games will load a bit faster than a standard SSD, but then you'd have to justify the point of wasting money on an NVMe SSD just for games when they're likely more useful for general data.

yeah i get you so probably best to get another m.2 for stuff i use on the hard drive? 

Hi guys

just wondering if its worth upgrading to m.2 Nvme from SSD Sata to put games on? already have windows on a M.2 Nvme

2 minutes ago, chckovsky said:

CL means CAS Latency which I belive stands for Column Access Strobe Latency. In general terms a kit with higher CL value will perform a little worse than a kit with a lower value, GIVEN the SAME frequency.

That is not even close to accurate. 3200MHz CL14 is B-die (nothing else presently does that stock), yes, but 2400MHz CL 14 is very unlikely to be.

Yeah I miss read that he put 2400 I thought he asked what cl14 would genuinely mean and most cl14 is b die 

2 minutes ago, Joshcanread said:

At my local pc store and basically the only good one which is PLE in Australia there is corsair vengeance 2x8 gb kit (2666mhz) for AUD$139 but it's sold out and the step up is the same kit rated at 2400mhz but its AUD$145 and then literally the same kit again for AUD$155. I think the difference is c14 and c16 but what does that mean? 

2666 2x8 -https://www.ple.com.au/Products/627643/Corsair-16GB-Kit-2x8GB-DDR4-Vengeance-LPX-Ryzen-Black-C16-2666MHz

2400 2x8 c14-https://www.ple.com.au/Products/620610/Corsair-16GB-Kit-2x8GB-DDR4-Vengeance-LPX-Black-C14-2400MHz

2400 2x8 c16-https://www.ple.com.au/Products/624743/Corsair-16GB-Kit-2x8GB-DDR4-Vengeance-LPX-Black-C16-2400MHz

This basically is the ram timings of the ram, the lower the timings the faster it would be in terms of signals been sent, cl14 is Samsung b die 

24 minutes ago, blurryfacexx21 said:

i couldnt understand. lemme explain, the ram with 2666 MHz is cheaper than 2400 MHz. so should i spend more and get the 2400 or just buy 2666 cheaper?

But what are the ram timings on both ? Of course go with 2666 but the timings may be higher than the 2400.

2 hours ago, rudiswt said:

i just bought ram geil evo x rgb 2x4gb, then i install it with the manual switch cable. when i turn on the power, the led just one  chip that was on,the other is not working. after i take it off the cable and put it again now all of chip not worked. the ram detected normally 8gb but the rgb is off. is it my bad? i wonder what's broke the cable or the ram? can i fix it beside claim the warranty? cause my home is far away from the store

Does it have a software with it? Have you tried taking them out and trying one at a time and seeing if the led comes on ?

1 hour ago, blurryfacexx21 said:

thankyou. so i should just get a 2400 mhz stick? also, i found the one with 2600mhz to be cheaper than the one with 2400. will it have any bad effects if i use 2600 with 2400?

Yes don’t got different MHz, only buy pairs

Just now, Origami Cactus said:

If you haven't put any thermal paste on the cooler this time the it is great.

But why do you spread it out? I usually just put a pea-sized amount of thermal paste in the middle of the cpu, and the massive mounting pressure will flatten it just fine.

yup

nah way OTT imo just put like a pea sized blob in the middle and it will spread 

Just now, ProfessorShroom said:

The board also doesn't post so even with a machine we couldn't look in system info. I'll contact Apple but it seems stupid they don't put model information on their boards

yeah i agree it is a strange one but yeah send them a pic as well as all the info you can give and hopefully they will give you an answer 

Just now, ProfessorShroom said:

We have no laptop to put the board in, we only have the board

if you can't find anything online i would email apple support and request they help you identify which one it is if they will if not be hard to find out without it in a machine.

5 minutes ago, ProfessorShroom said:

We've got a MacBook Air mobo lying around at work and we're trying to find the specs of it. The only model number that gives any results is 820-00165-A and that has multiple boards. Any ideas?

you looked on launch pad - other - system information ?

6 minutes ago, blurryfacexx21 said:

i actually have an alienware 15R4 right now. i have a 8 gig stick right now. i don't know which ram is compatible with my laptop. I'm looking at this right now (https://www.ramcity.com.au/ram/ddr4/2666/sodimm/ct8g4sfs8266). i have a 2400 mhz ram in my laptop so does it work if i put in a 2666mhz ram? can someone check and confirm if this'll work on my laptop. i did some research on the types of rams and all but i'm not smart enough to know which one i should go for. pls suggest. thankyou in advance 

yes but its pointless extra 200mhz or what ever it is and thats with a intel cpu, if it was a AMD maybe yeah but imo its a pointless upgrade as intel cpu's don't take nearly half as well as what amd cpu's do in mhz increase 

yeah either bad paste or coolers on its way out, i have a 9900k that sits at 29idle in bios with a h150i id expect at least for you 35-37 max 

2 minutes ago, Dunny said:

Hi, my current set of RAM is faulty, getting hundreds of errors in Memtest and BSODs almost everyday. I contacted the manufacturer who offer a lifetime warranty on memory and they approved my RMA, no problems so far. I'm planning to send the RAM back Monday. But last night I received an email from them saying that my 32GB 4x8GB set is out of stock and asked if I would be okay with a alternate replacement of 2x16GB. Both sets run at 3000MHz. For reference I am using a quad channel CPU and Motherboard. i7-7820X and MSI X299 Raider. I'm not sure whether to accept the dual channel downgrade? If it is a downgrade? or ask for a similar 4 stick kit. Thoughts?

i mean it would be sufficient but why downgrade due to stock ask for a like for like replacement, and i suppose it could depend on how desperate you are to get the ram.