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About Salticid

  • Title


  • CPU
    i9 9900K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero Wifi
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z 32 Gb DDR4-3600
  • GPU
    EVGA 2080 TI FTW3
  • Case
    Thermaltake View 71 TG
  • Storage
    Samsung - 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280, Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5", Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200 RPM 3"
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  • Display(s)
    ACER Predator Z1, Samsung 32" secondary
  • Cooling
    Custom loop: EK Supremacy Evo CPU block, EVGA Hydrocopper GPU Block, EK 360 Rads x2, Bitspower fittings & OD 16mm PETG pipe, Thermaltake D5 pump & res combo, Thermaltake Riing 120mm static pressure fans x6
  • Keyboard
    ROG Strix Flare
  • Sound
    Sound Blaster X Katana
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. I didn't say that. I said it becomes mostly moot when dealing with a single closed loop. Things change a bit when dealing with dual, split loops because there are things you can definitely do to help optimize heat exchange with those. You are talking about two different CPU coolers here. A Corsair H55 and a Corsair H100I. If I understand correctly, you would be using the H55 on your current rig, but when you switch over to Ryzen you would move up to the H100I? In either build, probably the best heat exchange for good airflow in the case would be to put the CPU cooler fan(s) on intake and the GPU on Exhaust. This is because the GPU loop will usually be dispersing more heat than the CPU, and it's more beneficial to avoid dispersing that inside the case airflow if at all possible - improving cooling for your Chipset VRMs and RAM. These AIO rads are 120s or 240s, so if you have room for another 120 or two along the side you position either rad, do so and run it in the same direction the rad is running - intake with intake and exhaust with exhaust. The temp difference may be a few degrees but if you can easily get those few degrees, go for it.
  2. That video only shows that it makes a difference if and only when you are running an air-cooled GPU with an open air shroud, and your radiator is on your exhaust fans. A more accurate test would have run additional steps of changing the top mount to intake and measuring, and also changing the front mount to exhaust and measuring. The open air shroud inside the case releases more heat directly into the airflow of the case. I would expect that the issue is less where the radiator is placed in the box, and more passing hotter air over a radiator for cooling versus pulling fresher, cooler air over the radiator fins for cooling. The more heat-soaked the air, the less heat it can then take up to cool the fluid in the loop, and thus the component it is trying to cool. So a front mounted exhaust versus top, I would expect to be almost the same, maybe a degree or two under that 86 degree measurement. But he didn't do that test so we don't know for sure. Conclusions at 12:54 To your question about adding liquid cooling to your GPU. If your configuration is a single closed loop, no, in most cases your rad position becomes pretty moot. Far less heat is being released directly into the case because the GPU is on the water loop - though your loop and rads will definitely be hotter from the GPU so you can expect to see slightly higher temps on the CPU than you would on a dedicated CPU loop or on dual loops with one dedicated loop for the CPU and one for the GPU. RAM and Mobo Chips will still be releasing heat too and still need airflow and cooling, of course. But they don't release nearly the heat into the case that an open-air GPU does. The GPU is the biggest heater of any component in a system, and in a small room some can even change the whole room's overall temperature over time. You always need intake for airflow, and you always need exhaust, and to some degree or another on most cases each side of the flow is going to have to have some radiator on it - at the very least a 240 on each. Unless of course your case is specifically designed with more options for airflow allowing you to pull good intake in someplace without radiators. Without a concept case like that I'm curious how one could avoid pulling intake over a rad and still effectively maintain good airflow and positive to neutral air pressure. But everything I've seen shows that doing so - passing intake over a rad in a full custom loop - doesn't make more than a couple of degrees difference in temp, whereas temperatures overall are far more affected by the ambient temperature of the environment/room the computer is in, the clock speeds on the GPU and CPU and the speed of the fans on the rads than the actual positioning of the rads and fans themselves.
  3. Salticid

    Water Cooling Noob Questions

    Apologies for the long delay in reply. I'm not exactly sure what your first questions is exactly... Are you asking if the order of your loop is causing an issue? Or if the contact plate to your CPU's Heat plate is not large enough? So, I am an Intel person and don't have as much experience with AMD/Ryzen. That said, those temps seem high to me on the CPU and should be much closer to what you see on the GPU I think. So ticking the questions I think I see you asking: * Is it your loop order? No. Loop order doesn't matter, the liquid in the system reaches and equilibrium throughout regardless of loop order. Order doesn't matter except for making sure the reservoir comes before the pump. * Is your CPU Contact Plate too big/small? No. From what you mentioned, you got the AMD Ryzen model of the EK CPU water block. It is designed to correctly direct jet water over the hottest section of the CPU heat transfer plate, and circulate it around the rest of the plate before exiting the block. It's long tested and should be working fine. Your GPU block is larger because you're not just liquid cooling the main GPU Core, (in pretty much the same way the EK CPU block does), but you are also circulating water over the VRMs on the card - and if the 1080 TI FTW3 is done anything like the 2080 TI FTW3, possibly the chokes too though I don't understand why. That plate cools specific contact points along the whole of the card, and so water is circulated all along those, though more passively than over the GPU Core itself. So what is going on with the temps on that CPU? Most often when you see temps like this that have not come down significantly from air cooling, the main issue is lack of contact of the water block plate with the Thermal Transfer Plate on the CPU: * Perhaps you haven't tightened down the support brackets enough and they have come loose, or you didn't tighten the block down enough against the CPU. * Possibly you forgot to take the protective plastic off the contact plate of the block - this happens more than you know. * Possibly there's something in the way of your tightening the CPU Block down enough, check clearance and that a mosfet, choke or VRM heatsink on the Mobo is not getting in the way of contact between the CPU and the water block. * Maybe your paste job was not great for some reason, or your paste was old - unlikely but just throwing it out there. Check all of these things. The temps you're seeing are too high and bothersome. It's a pain to take your loop apart I know, but it's worth it for the life and safety of your components and to get them working correctly. I see something else in this picture now that I'm looking. It looks like possibly you have the water flow on your EK Water Block backwards. This could also effect temps much like any of the above, if the water flow is not being properly directed through the jet flow system. On my own EK block, EK did not label an actual In and Out, but there is a specific In and Out. That can be changed by taking the plate apart and turning a component 180 degrees, so they call the system adjustable and don't label the ports. Check to make sure you have the In and Out correct when you put it back together after checking the other things. You should be able to just see the microchannels on the contact plate directly on the out side. The In side, you can't really see them because water is channeled tightly into that center slot to force jet it along the center of the contact plate and then through the channels. This is why if you're trying to force the water flow backwards, it's just not going to be effective. On the stock out-of-the-box configuration of the Intel blocks, the out port is the one closest to the EK symbol. I am not sure if it's the same on the AMD ones. I also noticed you went with a 240 Rad at double thickness. This isn't causing any issues with your cooling, if it were you would see issues with your GPU temperatures too. But it also means you have a touch more air resistance so you may not be getting optimal cooling from the rad. When you get a bigger case, I would recommend adding more fans for a push-pull or another rad - but a thinner form factor. It won't make a huge difference, but could help in hotter weather by 5 to 10 degrees. That said, it may not be worth it. Push-pull eats room and creates the headache of having to match fans and sync speeds, and that or an extra rad may really not be necessary. It's a little hard to say without fixing the CPU temp issue first and then seeing how your temps are over a long test with your current setup, relative to your room temperature. It was just a thought. Oh, and I noticed up in your OP when reviewing you mentioned you now have a clearance issue with your new hybrid cooling block on your GPU. Sorry I missed this before. When you're looking for a new case, since you're water cooling now, consider getting one with a vertical GPU mount. That should head off any further clearance issues before they happen - though you can check specs and do the math for a horizontal mount too. Just make sure the case you get allows the pci ports for the card. I was disapointed to find I can't use the vertical mount on my box because it's only got 2 pci ports and my card takes up 3. Oh and keep in mind, the PCI extension cable is always sold separate from the case itself, an extra cost. Last, you asked about the fill level of the reservoir. Yes, that's perfectly fine. Those pump/reservoirs can even be mounted on their side, and when you do that you want as close to no air as you can get in the system, so some people go for as close to a vacuum as they can manage. Air is the second biggest issue in a loop, so getting rid of all of it you can is never a problem.
  4. Salticid

    Water Cooling Noob Questions

    I have no idea what you mean! It's your first loop and a start. Perhaps not as elegant as you initially imagined, but it looks great! It will serve you well for now and you learned a lot as you mentioned. And frankly the look of any loop is miles better than air coolers and wires any day. =D Great job! I love the color. Have you done any benchmarking or temperature checks?
  5. Sorry for the double post. Because I don't like leaving issues open with no solutions, in case someone else runs into the same problem and runs across this thread while searching for a solution, I wanted to update with what my fix was. Seems it was simply the USB. Either a hidden partition, or the partition itself was starting to corrupt - the smaller USB was pretty old. Good things to know: For ASUS boards to use either Flashback or EZFlash the USB should be 4GB or smaller - the smaller USBs seem to do better. While you're supposed to be able to use any format, FAT32 is considered to be the most successful. USB must be 2.0 and must be in a USB 2.0 port. My own fix when the USB just was not being read: Open command prompt and use partdisk to clean, re-partition and format the USB. Re-download the BIOS file and follow all steps again.
  6. Huh. Interesting. This company is news to me too, but apparently they also offer data center solutions? https://www.quantacool.com/polarrak-datacenter-cpu-cooler/ And High-power Laser Projectors too? https://www.quantacool.com/polarmax-movie-cpu-cooler/ Looks like they've been around since at least 2015. It's apparently a passive system with no pumps and while there's apparently fluid (according to the website) there's no water? Found this from 2015 https://www.tweaktown.com/articles/7084/quantacool-mhp-cooling-solution-tested-gtc-2015/index.html There's information about the founders and company around about online and in IEEE circles. Seems they patented a kind of microchannel cooling system and have been pushing it as a startup company. One of them is speaking at a conference this year.... Interesting stuff. If it's so good though, I wonder why it hasn't gotten bigger by now. Is that space so saturated or already controlled by a bigger name?
  7. *shrugs* In my experience neither does repeated bumps if people are simply breezing past assuming you're making some basic mistake like not reading instructions or not unzipping the file. It's also super aggravating to provide a list of things already done to defer the usual initial questions and show that yes you're doing the basic things like unzipping, and more, and then be asked if you've unzipped the file. Sure, many people here may not respond because they have no idea, but someone has to have some thoughts to offer. To that point, thank you for replying. I do appreciate it. No, I haven't tried resetting the CMOS yet because the Motherboard manual recommends not to unless absolutely necessary and in the case of failed BIOS update it says your shouldn't - but then that may mean specifically a corrupted BIOS. the manual isn't always very exacting. Perhaps it is something I should try when I get home tonight.
  8. Wow. not one real attempt at actual assistance. Frankly, I'm surprised considering the amount of answers are being thrown around for simple questions you can find answers to with a little research or looking up technical specs. Or maybe I shouldn't be and that's all this subsection can manage.
  9. Yes, you have to unzip the file in order to get to it to rename it, and in order to use the renaming tool that comes in the zip folder. If you read what I said, I tried to use EZ Flash when the Flashback port didn't work. It also failed twice. I have no idea why. I've heard how ridiculously easy this is. Seen others do it. So of course I would be having a problem. LOL
  10. Bump. Could really use any help with this. Nothing I've found online has worked so far.
  11. Looking for any new ideas or help. I cannot get the latest BIOS to flash regardless of what I've tried. Started with a new 16 Gb USB 2.0 flash drive, fresh format to FAT 32. Used the rename script that came with the download to rename the BIOS file. Used the BIOS Flashback port, following all directions. Nothing. The Flashback light just stays lit indefinitely. No Q-code on the Mobo. Machine boots fine, just no BIOS update at all. Tried a 4 Gb USB 2.0 stick formatted to FAT 16. BIOS Flashback: Same exact thing. So, I tried EZ Flash in BIOS, first with the 4 Gb and then with the 16 Gb stick. In both cases, at first EZ Flash showed storage devices as disabled. When I hit escape to exit, it went to a screen where it identified the storage devices and found the new BIOS file. When I select the BIOS file, everything freezes and nothing happens. There is a b4 Q-code, which is "USB Hotplug". I am not certain what this means. Had to hard reboot to get things working again. Once again, everything boots fine. I'm completely at a loss.suggestions and help is welcome. I'd really like to update the BIOS as it is recommended.... Edit to add: This is a new build. I finally finished installing windows, updating the chipset and drivers and running windows update.
  12. Salticid

    Tube management advice required

    Nice work! Love the curves!
  13. Salticid

    Thermaltake P5 and NZXT Kraken X72

    It's likely the length of the hose. I've read a review on one of the revs of the P5 that even Thermaltake's own aio just barely fits and it's a stretch - and that was after the person was reassured that it would fit just fine by Thermaltake. f course NZXT doesn't give a spec on how long the hose is, so it's hard to verify. You could email and ask them.
  14. Salticid

    Not sure what radiators I need

    Rule of thumb: 1 120 per component cooled is enough. If you intend to OC and push your cards, add more. I like to push for overkill because it can only help temps and because it gives you room for expansion if you suddenly get the urge. So while a 28 mm 360 would be fine, I'd do a 28 mm 480 or 2 240s. you could also do a 38 mm 240 and it theoretically would be equivalent, but once you start getting thicker rads you want to make sure your fans are static pressure fans in order to have them function as well as a thinner one. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans
  15. Salticid

    Did i make a mistake?

    I know you're not asking me, and certainly wait for Syn, but I would suggest that no, you remove the pads from areas they don't need to be. Because the added millimeter or so of padding there will effect the contact of the thermal pads you put on the chips that need them, meaning they don't contact the plate or don't contact it well, making them less effective or not effective at all. The pads provided by my card manufacturer were of different thicknesses depending where they sit on the board, thus allowing them all to have full contact.