Inzelux

Damn, so that scews the entire thing, then. Unless I can do the daisy-chain all the way through DP, then its not possible? (Laptop --> Dongle with DP --> To monitor 1 --> Monitor 2)? Is there any feasible way to transmit extended monitors through video without incurring a 100-200 USD extra of costs?

Dear forum. I have a HP Envy X360 13" laptop (specifically: HP envy X360 13-AR0800no) which I am considering to hook up to a transportable dual-monitor setup with minimal amo of cables attached to it (Or lets call it a "ghetto-dock" for home work, per say). My only concern right now is that the laptop has a single type C connector, and I am uncertain if will be able to run two monitors off of it, and if I'm able to connect both a wireless mouse and keyboard to it. The concern arises from the multi-million different TB and type C standards that are out there. The port type C is specified by HP as the following: 1x USB 3.1 Gen 1 type-C^TM (5 gb/s signal frequency, power supply 3.0, DisplayPort^TM 1.4, HP hibernate and & chargemode). The Bluetooth-card is specified as the following: Bluetooth 4.2. I have no other physical ports of interest (No HDMI, miniHDMI, DP/miniDP etc). Only regular USB 3.1 and SD-card reader. The questions simply typed out are as follows: 1. Will i be able to connect a Type C dongle which adapts to two HDMI females with "multi stream support" and from thereon connect two monitors and make them run as "extended desktops" on 1920x1080 resolution for each? The dongle holds the following specs: Connection: HDMI 4K (30Hz), max res: 4K. The dongle is allegedly supporting C 3.1 devices and TB3-devices. I have a "cheaply priced "dongle in mind. Please let me know if you think that this is a fuctionality usualled reserved for higher priced dongles. 2. Will i be able to connect a BT headset, a BT keyboard and a BT mouse to the laptop through its BT4.2-card (some realtek shit) simultaneously and use them at the same time without issues? Or is BT 4.2 succepitble to transmission / quality issues when using multiples devices at once? Appriciate all input. In advance, Thank You.

Unless you're very tech savy, I doubt there is a "easy" solution for you out there. Theoretically, if you get a "good enough" car battery, it should be possible to operate your PC off of it, as nothing in a computer needs current larger than 12Vs, BUT You need an inverter which can convert the 12V electricity to 110-230V which your power supply needs to function. OR You need a power-supply which "natively" will accept 12V electricity, which with some electrical competence, should be possible to solve with some wiring and splicing into a socket which the PSU will accept. (Disclaimer: I do not know if this actually works, I guess you'll have to look into overall capacity provided pr. port on the output side of the PSU.) With that said though, I do not know for how long a single "general use" 12V car battery would last with a 2000USD system connected to it. Half an hour, max, maybe? Perhaps someone with more electrical insight could provide some estimates, as I do not know how current conversion affects performance / power draw. Honestly, I would probably reccomend you to sort a deal out with your parents. They're most likely right about you playing too much video games..

I would definitely reccomend that you buy a solid-state m.2 drive if your laptop supports it. If it doesent support m.2, then buy a 2.5" SSD instead, It won't do THAT much for gaming, but speed in terms of general use and start-up will improve a significant amount. Adding 8 GBs more of RAM to that laptop with a 940MX will not increase your performance within games anyway, as its not the RAM that is bottlenecking your system. Good luck!

AFAIK this motherboard does not have WIFI or Bluetooth, which means you cannot connect a bluetooth device to the motherboard "natively". Dont buy a new motherboard though, just go ahead and buy a bluetooth dongle and you'll be all set to go. Connects via USB, and they're relatively cheap. (Like this one ---> clickey)

True, true. Guess I'll have to sit down one night and see what Im able to get it to on my own. Will edit back with my results so that other curious people can get a feeling for the difference between "self-made" and EZ Wizard.

Then I would look at options to replace your WIFI-router, if its very cumbersome to run a ethernet cable throughout the house, or perhaps some techy option like @Brink2Three has suggested. I don't have any knowledge about your current wifi-router, but buying a reputable WIFI-router with good specs can solve a lot of issues (or a Wifi-mesh system of sorts..). Other things you could try is to move the WIFI-router around (as much as possible, obviously..). Try to move it around, even upwards towards the ceiling, and make sure no reflective surfaces are near the router. Also, make sure you're not trying to pass the signal through signal-insulating walls like metal or concrete. Moving it from one area of your bedroom to another could improve the signal. Same goes for the devices which are to recieve the WIFI signal, stashing a PS4 into a hole in a concrete-wall will not get you good signal, if that makes sense. Obviously, the ideal situation for the both of you would be to move the router so that it is located somewhere "in the middle" of you and your brother location.

Do you have any indication on signal strength on your brothers device? If the WIFI signal is bad / poor, you should probably have a decent indication of that. Most devices are fitted with a bar / signal strength meter (Software-wise). If its low signal strength, then you most likely need to look at options to improve WIFI signal strength. On the other hand, if his device(s) has good signal strength, and it suddenly drops out, I would think that perhaps the router is worn out, or maybe you have an external factor within your house which suddenly makes the signal worse.

Okay, so you have a modem from your ISP, which you have connected to a router which has WIFI, which you are trying to connect to? First thing I would do then, is to find out if low / bad WIFI signal is the issue, or if its the service from the ISP is having issues. (Basically; Do you remain connected to the WIFI while having no ethernet, or do you lose the wifi-connection all together?) Do you lose WIFI-signal on those devices that you are having issues with, or do you lose ethernet all together? (Wired devices; Do they still have a connection?). If you are unsure, the easiest thing is probably to run a ethernet cable from the modem directly to a PC for a while, and see if its more stable that way.

If the devices that you're having issues with are connecting to the modem via WIFI, then the largest issue is most likely your WIFI-router (Or modem, which you call it). Without much knowledge about your set-up, I am going to assume that you have an ADSL modem from your ISP which has WIFI included into it. I've had issue with those units degrading over time (Or in general; ISP provided ADSL modems with or without WIFI which has had their performance drop after time). The easiest thing for you, is probably to get a proper WIFI router which you can connect to the modem via a regular CAT ethernet cable. Its quiet hard to find a "store-bought modem" these days, so its just easier to go out and buy a WIFI-router which will passthrough the signal from the modem via a regular ethernet cable. It will require you to have "two boxes" instead of one, but at least you will be able to have better WIFI signal.. ISP provided equipment is rarely good quality stuff..

Okay, based on that, I guess I'll fiddle around with the settings on my own I guess. Thanks!

No, it won't really throttle before i apply a clock which brings the CPU into the neighborhood of 4,8 ghz, but then again it will not throttle before i hit it with an artificial 100% load like OCCT. Still find it interesting though that it should immidiately hit 100C at 4,8 ghz. Which I am aware of, but after looking at other peoples results, I still think mine is running a bit hot. I am obviously trying to blame the EZ wizard in this instance, but maybe I am wrong.. Could also be the fact that people havent specified that their results are in a de-lidded state. I am using a decent noctua paste, so I doubt that its related to the paste, at least.. Right, so I should actually sit down, use the remaining of my 10+ yrs old knowledge of OC'ing and clock it "manually"? Right now it seems like the EZ Wizard gives the CPU 1.355V under full load @ 4,6 ghz. Does that sound excessively high, or should it be fine for a couple of years?

Hi guys! I was wondering how reputable, or should I rather say, how safe / smart the "Asus EZ tuning" wizard is, Basically, I am curious to know how good of a "overclocking" job this wizard does compared to someone who would adjust values on their own (Given that this person "sort of" knows what he/she is doing..). Does it only operate with safe voltages (even for the higher clocks (14%-->), or does it actually apply values which could be considered as "dangerous" for the system in the long term (Cause earlier ware, etc)? I mean, the only thing the wizard really asks for is two things.. What do you use the computer for, and what kind of cooling you have. Does Asus test/certify every mobo + cpu combination for the MOBOs which are shipped with this wizard to make sure its safe? Would appriciate any input, I havent really experienced any stability issues with it, but it seems to run the CPU really hot when applying higher clocks (StrixZ270F, 4,8 ghz OC on a 7700K cooled by a H100I pro instantly throttles the system on a full load), so I am afraid that perhaps the Wizard is applying a lot more voltage than is necessary to achieve the speed, as the interwebz gives me an indication that a 4,8 ghz clock should be very achieveable on a mediocre cooler without throttling issues. Even a 9% OC according to the wizard seems to make my system quiet toasty, although I'm at least not throttling. ) Would appriciate if anyone would share any experiences about the wizard.

Wow, can't say anything else than that I'm pretty much gobsmacked by your post. I would never have thought that this is an issue with a closed cooling system which is assembled under controlled conditions. Obviously seems like they have issues with material choices, although its hard to grasp when they have control over so many of the parameters within a factory. Either way, I will withstand from disassembling the unit untill I have heard from the seller or Corsair directly regarding the warranty / replacement situation. Its just too cumbersome, I refuse to believe that unclogging a AIO cooler is within expected maintenance work..I could be wrong though. Thanks guys!

I do think something in the pump works, because the loud grinding noise is definitely caused by something, but if its just a "engine" spinning with a broken ball-bearing or perhaps the fan-blades of the pump has broken off the spinning part is hard to tell, but you're right, something is still moving to be able to create that awfull grinding noise. As the cooler is still within warranty I do not want to pick it apart for obvious reasons (I assume tearing down an AIO-unit will void the warranty), I assume its quiet cumbersome if I by any chance would spill any of the liquid, as I do not have the means or competence to figure out which fluid i should top it up with. In addition, i doubt that something is physically blocking the pump as debris has no way of entering the cooling loop, a tear-down would probably mean that I need spare parts as something is definitely broken, not clogged. (Or could I be wrong? Does it happen that these AIO units are shipped from the factory with debris in them?) Glad to hear you are under the same impression, would appriciate Mr. Nick's two cents though.