PanteraGuk

Yup not all JSTs are alike. (Stupid spacing) luckily the 3 pin ones I ordered work with my ARGB strips. I got some 6 pin JST PH ones on the way with the right spacing ... I hope.

Ok so I found a post that might have an answer. https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/rgb-fan-that-can-be-controlled-by-motherboard.2535196/ I’ve ordered some 3 pin JST and will see if I can use them on the 6 pin fan hub with some ARGB strips

Ok so once I get the pinout (no I haven’t done it yet) I will need some of these 6 pin connectors. Does anyone know what these are? Looks like a JST connector.

So apparently Coolman fans use the same 6 pin... and I found this .. hard to make out but I see Out / + / something / - / - / +

I wish it was that easy. The uphere fans have only a 6 pin connector that needs to plug into their included hub to work for lighting and power. There’s no speed adjustment on the fans so not sure why it’d need 6 wires (if you think 2 for power and 3 for ARGB). I’m trying to figure out which of those 6 pins I can rig to run a few ARGB strips.

So I want to add some ARGB to a budget-ish build. It’s more of a “test and improve my modding skills” build I guess. In the past I’ve used 3rd party ARGB devices (Lian Li Strimmer) with a Corsair node pro using an adapter I found an adapter for it on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-RGB-to-Aura-Mystic-Light-A-RGB-Adapter/372521827376?hash=item56bc07fc30:g:y2EAAOSwBfhcBCJp So I’m working with the uphere 123 ARGB fan 5 pack. The hub it comes with has 10 outs and I’m using 5 for the fans. I want to use the other 5 outs for some other ARGB strips but I can’t find the pinout for the fans/hub. Was hoping someone has it. Cheers!

So does NVENC depend on the card or is it crap in general? If im not gonna use my 1080 I might as well sell it off. Also the el gato has a shit ass feature that you can’t use it’s encoder when using OBS (while live streaming). It’s actually pretty good for encoding a direct capture to the hard drive. Yes I need to test. No argument there but wanted to try to get some expectations set and advice before i rebuild by stream/capture rig. Thanks again for al the feedback.

So here’s my deal. I upgraded my gaming rig enough to have pretty much a 2nd gaming rig. 4790k, 32g ddr3 and a 1080FE. It’s now going to be a streaming only rig. I have an el gato HD60 Pro in that rig. The 4790k has a 120m aio on it. So so my question is with a liquid cooled 4790k (cooler master Seidon 120m aio), a 1080FE (blower style) and an el gato HD60 Pro... which is the best video encoder?

Lol. You know that’s dumb that it works that way. I bought a tp link powered usb hub to test this exact theory but the power of RGB compelled me. Plus I need a gaming keyboard for my all cougar streaming rig. So yeah. Glad you got it working but it’s dumb that it has to work that way. I embraced cougar heavily 2 years ago but slowly have been moving off due to silly quirks they have with their products. I had their headset for 2 days before sending it back due to the shitty mic. My Cougar pioneer case has a fan you cant remove because it screws in from the inside and the screws are blocked by a riveted in drive bay. The 700k, for me, had a BAD habit of recording macros on to my WASD while playing. I’m not sad to see it go even though I loved its design and build quality. I now have a Corsair k70 mk.2 with mx speed switches and I love it. Only reason I went with that over others is that it has a similar metal backplate design that the 700k did. Never used the macro buttons on the 700k any ways.

No this is not. This was built for a home theater.

It you’re going to invest in a system the invest in ways to protect it. I use an older home theater surge protector that works great. It’s a bit over kill but it’s protected my rig multiple times. I have an older monster cable hts3500. Multiple companies make them. Panamax has a good rep. Some of these have the ability to clean power, detect grounding issues and protect against over/under voyage situations.

The big questions are. 1) what exactly do you plan to stuff into it? 2) what are you case goals? Meshify says you want airflow. Razer 011 is a waste imo over just a O11 dynamic. If you want airflow get an O11 Air. I have a O11 dynamic and love it. Quality is good and had a ton of configuration options. Heck you can get a replacement front glass that’s a custom loop resivour and pump! https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=7134

Equipment: Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic AIO: AlphaCool EisBaer Extreme Chip/mobo: 8700k / Asus Z370-E side fans: Corsair LL130 x3 bottom fans: Bequiet Silent Wings 3 high speed x3 Notes: the EisBaer Extreme is DUMB big. It will only fit at the top in one direction so it’s either it’s current config or pull/exhaust or I can pull it apart and flip the fans for push/intake. It’s 2x 140 silent wind 3s. The current setup is EisBaer Extreme pull exhaust, LL120s intake side and silent winds intake bottom. I do do have a vertical GPU mount now because the 1080ti FTW3 won’t let me put the glass of the Lian Li O11 on with the 2 8pin power leads on it. Well it does but it pushes down on the board and that’s bad m’kay. Right now now it’s a very positive pressure system and I’m thinking about a rethink. However since I like ideas I ask y’all. My 8700k can get to upper 80s low 90s under load (prime95 etc) at 4.8 ghz and I want to take advantage of the beast cooler and see if I can improve. Yes I could just do it but then I can’t show pretty pictures of my wares. ? The 1080ti in this config sits nice at about 65c at +60 core and +150 memory OC under load. I’m just looking for ideas to improve thermals. The only thing I can think of is to do the forbidden thing of having the EisBaer pull in cooler outside air in from the top through the rad, have the silent winds pull in outside air from the bottom then have the LL120s take all the warm nasty naughty air and blast it out the side. Only concern is will the hot hair blasting out the side get just pulled right back in through the top? Is that inconsequential? Have people tested if this worth trying or crap? Are there other ideas out there to consider? If this is as good as I’m gonna get and my ideas are dumb then I won’t waste the time trying. So laziness is a factor. ? Thanks in advance! cheers! -PanteraGuk ps. Yes I have RGB power extensions. Don’t judge me. Also posted this exact post at tom’s hardware to maximize replies.

Gave up. Got k70 mk2. Works fine. 700k will go on my streaming rig.

Oh dear. We will find an answer dammit!

I have already clicked on each usb controller and reinstalled the driver for each.

Board: Z370-e rog strix os: win 10 pro Device with issue: Cougar 700k keyboard First time poster here. I usually don't post because with enough research and poking around I can find the answer. This time I'm stumped and the answer eludes me. Situation: I have a Cougar 700K keyboard I've used for about 2 years. In that time I've used it on 2 systems. My current system has an Asus Z370-E mobo and been using that keyboard on that mobo for a year. Recently I changed cases and added some new fans, GPU and an m.2. Since then my Cougar keyboard has been acting up something fierce. Initial issue. When the computer is off and turned on or was rebooted the keyboard (and only the keyboard) comes up as "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)" Unplugging the usb and reconnecting it after the computer is fully booted resolves the issue every time. So the keyboard works just is not recognized on startup. It is not able to access bios with F2 or del although when in bios it does detect its presence. Also it works on 2nd PC with out any issues. Things I've tried that I've found in my research. Tested on 2nd computer. Works. Disconnect USB and reconnect after fully booted. Works. (I did this every time before rebooting to make sure it was working before doing so) Turned of fastboot in windows and in Asus bios. Not recognized on startup. Removed power plug 10 min and reconnected. After this I tested a few reboots and it worked. Tested powering down for 5-10 min and back on. Not recognized on startup after 2nd attempt. (best success so far) Flashed Bios (1802). Not recognized on startup. Flashed prior Bios version (1602). Same. Tried all available USB connectors both I/O panel and case connectors. Same. Went to windows power options and disabled USB Selective suspend setting. same. What am I missing? It seems to be a boot or bios issue. The thing works and has worked. Its just not working after I put it all in a new case. All other usb devices work (Crap HP keyboard , Audio interface, corsair node pro, corsair mouse, headset....) with out any problems. Please help